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Just an update on the Disconnect RDU gear oil: Ford Recommended Gear Oil = Motorcraft Rear Axle Oil - XY75WQL at a mere $32.99 on Amazon. I just got off the phone with Redline Technical Service. According to Redline, their corresponding oil will be Red Line 50604 MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 High-Performance Full Synthetic Gear Oil Lubricant for Manual Transmissions & Transaxles - 1 Quart. for $22 on Amazon Nothing apparently available from Motul. Just an FYI for those interested. Also Note: While it's true as stated by someone earlier, Ford can't deny you ( allegedly ) any claim if you use Ford Recommended products. However, in reality, the manufacturer can't deny a claim as long as you use the appropriate grade product, IE; if you use a comparable 5W-30 motor oil other than Ford product, all else being equal, they can't deny you. Just remember to use quality products, not some cheap version from Walmart, etc.

My mirrors have arrived!

*** This is an Advance Notice -- This post will be updated when the Full Dealer Bulletin is released ***

UPDATE: Late last week, the dealership diagnosed it as a bad transfer case. I’m hoping this fixes the issue but we shall see. 🤞🏼

Thank you for your terrific contributions to this community, Haz!

@tuxnet: Relevant sections from the 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual with enlarged procedure illustrations are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Cruise Control Module (C-CM) (with Sensor) Adjustment - General Procedures - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper — Exploded View, Front - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper — Exploded View, Front - Enlarged Edge Illustrations - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper Cover — Front - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Can I please get the correct PTU and RDU fluid type for my 2023 ST. I haven't been able to find them in the owners manual. I've seen different varying types on You-tube videos and and I just want to be clear what are the Ford recommended ones for my particular vehicle. I'd like to know the exact fluids and then maybe get the Amsoil equivalent, or another type if anyone believes there is something better than the Ford recommended type for the PTU, RDU, Transmission & engine oil.

I ran into the same problem with my wife's 2018 Ford Edge... it wouldn't remote start but the lights flashed, and the horn honked. Following your suggestion that it might be the hood, I checked but it was completely shut and locked. I opened and shut it again, and the remote start worked perfectly after that 🙂 Thank you!

I've used Redline products for over 20 years and never had any issues, even though I never asked for approval from a car manufacturer, even while the car was under warranty. That goes for gear oil, transmission oil and engine oil. I'm happy with Redline's recommendation. Plus, how would Ford even know the difference? Are they going to send the oil out for analysis? Maybe. They are more likely to deny a claim simply because the Service Rep at your Dealer is a < fill in appropriate name here > and they do not want to process the claim. If a different product meets the Govt. same spec, or higher, than the OEM product, then you have met the OEM spec, at a minimum. It's all a personal choice as to which way you go. I offered the info because: 1. The XY75WQL is expensive and not easy to obtain. I'm not paying $50 a quart ( or whatever they charge ) from a Dealer 2. The MT-LV 70W/75W is an alternative from a highly reputable company ( we are not talking Walmart-branded or any other unknown source product ) 3. The MT-LV 70W/75W is easily available at a much lower cost 4. Since I am changing both the RDU and PDU fluids at 20K intervals, it will be refreshed a lot sooner than Ford's recommendations

Overall, I don't disagree with what you are saying, hence my belief to change fluids at a faster rate than OEM usually recommends. Could all be due to meeting certain EPA mileage requirements ( thinner oil = less resistance = easier turning = less fuel used ) but I don't have access to the knowledge base that designed the Disconnect RDU and why Ford states only 75W for this RDU. That's why I'll stick to the recommended 75W for the RDU until I see more, certified information on switching to a thicker gear oil. Same goes for the PDU. However I would not use straight Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ( Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90 ) in the PDU as some have suggested. That stuff is designed to cling to metal and use only in splash boxes. Read multiple reports in the past of people who have used Redline Heavyweight Shockproof in their gearbox and when they took it apart, they found a thick sludge of " Smurf Blood " packed in around the gear case that had to be removed. Redline Lightweight Shockproof is a 75W80 so I would definitely consider using that in the PTU. Always worked great in my 5spd and 6spd with zero issues and smoothed out the shifting

Well, the Japanese do things differently than we do in the US. 🫠

My Google search results advise against changing viscosity - I would not experiment with it.

Hi Davidoo I have a 21 ST and it does not have the PTU cooler either. As STBEAST said, how much is the cooler really worth if you are cycling 200* coolant through it? You also said, " As a side note, I changed the RDU myself and only got about 22 ounces out of it when the specs say it holds 28 plus/minus an ounce. I'm glad I did because it came out completely black, and a lot of sludge stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. I got 26 ounces back in it before it started pouring out the fill cap, so that's all I could get back in. " Per the Oner's manual, the RDU takes approximately 28 ounces. The only way to get just about all of that out is if you pull the RDU cover and let it all drain. You can only get so much out via vacuuming it out.

For me I would recommend ForScan lite with the OBDLink MX+ adapter. The OBDLink MX+ also comes with an included app that can also read enhanced diagnostic codes, not just the check engine light, and for most vehicles. The license included with the OBDlink MX+ allows to read enhanced codes for most 1996+ vehicles.

RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W Disconnect RDU Fluid XY-75W-QL PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Rear Axle Fluid XY-75W85-QL / WSS-M2C942-A ATF: Motorcraft MERCON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-12-QULV / WSS-M2C949-A / MERCON ULV

Just received update 6.14.0 Updated SYNC to build 24058 Revision 1197.

My apologies for taking so long to respond back to you. I knew something did not see right with torque values. I guess that is what I get for buying a manual off eBay. Should have come here first. I was able to get the brakes done. I was amazed how easy it was to push the pistons back into the caliper. I do not need to spin them back in. I bought a brake tool compressor kit believing I need to screw them in. Will also use the info here to do the front. Thank you very much Haz for posting this for me.

@bogmanglen: Relevant sections from the 2021 Edge Workshop Manual are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor Belt - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fender Splash Shield - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

As @Wubster100 stated above, sometimes different letters indicate different features or specs, also like different spring or shock rates. However, for the part numbers you listed, the are superceding numbers with the K version being the latest. See this listing where it is clearly stating that the K version replaces the older ones. If you enter any of the older numbers it will automatically take offer you the K version. So all will work, what changed between versions will probably remain a mystery to customers. Generally the latest is the best.

Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield popup full-words descriptions of the acronyms. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard, Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate, And/Or Auto Hold/Auto Start-Stop/Defrost Button LED Indicators Inoperative 25-2283 25 June 2025 This bulletin supersedes 25-2157. Reason for update: update the customer symptom. Model: Ford 2025 Explorer Lincoln 2024-2025 Nautilus 2025 Aviator Markets: North American markets only Issue: Some of the vehicles listed in the Model statement above may exhibit at least one of the following conditions: • Inbound call cannot be heard • Wireless charger icon inaccurate • Auto hold, auto start-stop, and/or defrost button LED indicators inoperative This may be due to the APIM software. Action: For vehicles that meet all of the criteria in the Issue and Model statements, follow the Service Procedure to reprogram the APIM. Warranty Status: Eligible under provisions of New Vehicle Limited Warranty (NVLW)/Service Part Warranty (SPW)/Service Part New Vehicle (SPNV)/Extended Service Plan (ESP) coverage. Limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. NVLW/SPW/SPNV/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time 2024-2025 Nautilus, 2025 Explorer/Aviator: Perform software update for GWM, TCU and APIM per service procedure. Includes time to clear codes. 252283A 1.9 Hrs. Additional Time For Further Updates To GWM, TCU and APIM “Refer To Warranty & Policy Manual, Section 1.3 For Time Recording Requirements And Procedures For Actual Time. Ford Monitors Module Reprogramming Vehicle History Session Data To Compare Against Warranty Claiming Activity” (Can Be Claimed With Operation A) AP252283B Actual Time Up To 2.0 Hrs. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 14H522 Condition Code: 04 Service Procedure NOTE: The time required to complete this procedure varies depending on several factors including the number of module software updates required, available internet bandwidth, USB flash drive variability, and the potential that CAN flashing (software update via the DLC with FDRS) may be required. Connect to the internet with an ethernet cable, use a USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher flash drive. When performing USB software updates, using high speed USB ports on the laptop is recommended for faster file transfer. 1. Start an FDRS session and navigate to Toolbox tab > Datalogger > body control module (BCM) and select the BATT_SOC PID. Verify the PID reads 50% or higher. NOTE: Connecting the battery charger negative clamp directly to the battery negative terminal might result in the SOC PID not immediately reflecting the improvement from charging. (1). If SOC is less than 50%, charge the battery by attaching the battery charger's negative clamp to the engine or chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. (2). If the battery is unable to achieve a 50% SOC, use the Rotunda GRX-3590 or DCA-8000 testers to verify if replacement is required. • If the battery does not need to be replaced, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. • If the battery is replaced, fully charge the new battery, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. • Claim the battery testing and replacement outside of this article. 2. Reconnect the battery charger and set it to maintain a vehicle voltage of 12.6-13.6 volts. A low battery voltage or SOC while performing a software update to any module may result in a repeat "Restart Required" message in the vehicle's center display screen or a message on the FDRS saying "Part Number Validation Failed" or "DID Validation Failed". 3. Run the "Read The Configuration Data" app in FDRS, located in Toolbox > Multi-Module tab. 4. Navigate to the SW Updates tab. Is there a software update available for any of the following modules? GWM TCU APIM (1). Yes - proceed to Step 5. (2). No - this article does not apply. 5. Prepare to update the software for the GWM, TCU, and APIM. (1). A 64GB or larger USB flash drive is required for GWM, TCU, and APIM software updates. USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher is recommended for faster file transfer on both the computer port and the USB drive. (2). Make sure the USB flash drive being used is formatted correctly. To see the available drives, hold down the Windows icon keyboard key and press the E keyboard key. Right click on the USB flash drive and select Properties. If File System under the General tab is not exFAT, the drive must be formatted. (3). To format the USB flash drive: • Right click on the USB flash drive. • Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. • Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. (4). De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. 6. Using the FDRS, begin module programming by selecting the "SW Updates" tab. Follow all on-screen instructions carefully. 7. When prompted, connect the USB flash drive to the FDRS. 8. When prompted by the USB, safely remove/eject the USB flash drive from the FDRS. Start the vehicle ( KOER) then connect the USB flash drive to the USB media hub to install the software into the module. When the USB software update begins, the center display screen displays a message stating "Do Not Remove USB". The update may take 10 minutes or longer to complete. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes for the vehicle to recognize the USB flash drive with software update. 9. When the vehicle's center display screen prompts to restart the vehicle: (1). Turn the vehicle OFF. (2). Wait 10 minutes. (3). Restart the vehicle (KOER). The update is still in process at this time. 10. Follow FDRS on-screen prompts to complete the update. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes before "Update Successful" appears in the vehicle's center display screen. After 5 minutes if "Update Successful" pop-up is not shown on the center display screen, remove the USB flash drive and select YES on the FDRS prompt stating "Was The USB Update Successful" ( FDRS verifies if the module software update was successfully installed on the module). 11. Perform the software update for the GWM. Follow all update screens. If there is no GWM software update available, proceed to Step 12. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the GWM programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 12. 12. Perform the software update for the TCU. Follow all update screens. If there is no TCU software update available, proceed to Step 13. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the TCU programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 13. 13. Perform the software update for the APIM. Follow all update screens. If there is no APIM software update available, proceed to Step 14. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the APIM programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 14. 14. Format the USB drive. Right click on the USB flash drive. (1). Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. (2). Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. (3). De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. NOTE: The USB drive must be formatted immediately after the APIM software update (prior to updating any other module) or the subsequent updates may fail. 15. Refresh the FDRS files. (1). Click on envelope icon. (2). Select Refresh FDRS Files (this will close FDRS when completed). (3). Launch FDRS (4). Start new FDRS session. 16. Are there any updates available for the GWM, TCU, and/or APIM? NOTE: The option to update a module may not be available until other module(s) are updated to a certain level. The network test is a confirmation that all modules are at the latest available software. Some repairs may require multiple network tests to reveal all module dependent software. (1). Yes - proceed to Step 11. (2). No - repair is complete. © 2025 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources. TSB 25-2283 - Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard, Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate, And-Or Auto Hold-Auto Start-Stop-Defrost Button LED Indicators Inoperative.pdf

Your Edge was built in Canada not the U.S…….. 😎 It probably means they don’t plan to do any more updates since they switched to the new Google based system. They almost never did any functional changes anyway so of your sync 4 is working fine then this really is no change.

Ford has disabled software updates for the computer in your infotainment system called the APIM (Accessory Protocol Interface Module). This is basically the computer that runs your SYNC 4 system (your touch screen, navigation, apps, etc.). If your vehicle's SYNC 4 software version is 23187 or older, your vehicle's infotainment system cannot currently be updated, not even by a Ford dealership. Ford made a technical decision to block updates for certain SYNC 4 systems. As of now, they haven’t explained why. Ford is expected to release more info or a fix later.

All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/

To get a better idea of what’s going on, could you share a few more details? What year is the Edge? What engine and trim is it (SE, SEL, Limited, etc.)? Do you know exactly what work the garage did before the problems started? Did the issues start right after picking it up, or was there a delay? When you say the instrument panel isn’t working, is it totally dead (no lights, gauges, warning lights), or are some parts still working? Any other electronics not working, like the radio, HVAC, headlights, etc.? You checked all the fuses visually? Did you test them with a multimeter or just look at them? Also, about the alternator, was it overcharging (15V seems a bit high)? Curious what made you decide to swap it out.

The price of the Ford RDU fluid at the dealer is ridiculous. I thought the ULV was bad til I bought the RDU fluid...

Redline has a full synthetic 75W85 gear oil. Motul has a full synthetic 75W90 gear oil. Either would be fine for an alternative to the PTU. Redline has a MT-LV 70W/75W gear oil that would be an alternative to the Motorcraft 75W. That is per Redline Tech Services for the RDU for the Edge ST. Motul has a ATF VI transmission fluid for the Edge ST. However, You can get the Motorcraft product for less on Amazon than the Motul. I only use top brand name products, but that's me

Trace the drip as best you can to a starting point. Wipe the whole area clean. Check area in a couple of days to see if it repeats. If it does come from the sensor, wipe it clean and make sure it's in tight. You can seal the area with silicone sealer designed for oil, grease, etc. IIRC, that is the grey silicone product.

Just purchased new to me 2019 Edge SEL. Have a few questions.

Welcome!

Any transmission guys here know if there is any advantage to switching from ULV to LV trans fluid? My understanding is that the super thin ULV is part of the effort to reduce parasitic drivetrain losses to boost fuel economy. Not necessarily the best for wear or longevity. I'm thinking of switching unless there is a smart transmission guy that knows otherwise.

Ok thanks guys. Found similar info on the B.I.T.O.G. site. I will stick with the ULV.

Edge is covered. Confirmed - Ford recalls more than 200,000 vehicles for a rear camera failure that can lead to crashes https://share.google/qctStZRpmnFxyZNiz

As noted above in the quote, the instructions for the 22ST transmission on step 18 have you adding a liter / 2pt. after the leveling plug is installed back. Is this correct then? Can someone please clarify this.

Back a long time ago, we would sub thinner type f for Type A for harder faster shifts. The LV will shift softer read slip the clutches and add heat. It could void the warranty too.

The Piglins were easy. It just takes some gold. The real challenge was trusting a $530 shipment from a Chinese auto parts dealer. But it actually came through. Not a bad price considering that used mirrors go for about $200 each.

This is for all trim levels 2019-2024. Some vehicles are equipped with a PTU cooler.

Thanks STBEAST. Yeah, I have seen photos of people with 20s and 21s with the cooler, yet I have a 22 without it? I too wondered about the studs which is one reason I just had the dealer do it. I talked to the tech that did the work and he said as the dealer, they are required to change them. He said they are rated as only able to be torqued one time, but he thought you could use Loctite, but then he's had some where people used it and they had a real hard time getting them loose. I didn't get a chance to see the fluid that came out, but the tech said that the RDU actually gets hotter than the PTU and I was wise to change that one as well. Maybe just a placebo effect, but I swear the car runs smoother and quieter than before. I should be set to 60,000 now.

Thanks Wubster100, much appreciated. I just ordered the Motorcraft RDU fluid. If anyone has any alternative recommendations for the PTU and Transmission fluids I love to hear.

Wubster100 thank you for the info. I too could not find that in my digital owner's handbook. I did see on some previous threads that there are some possibly better alternatives via Redline or Amsoil. One of the popular ones was Redline Shockproof for the PTU?

PM me if Interested: Steering Wheel, Leather, Heated w/ Shifter Paddles Clockspring, Heated Right Stalk w/ Auto Wipe Left Stalk w/ Lane Assist Switch LH, Lane Centering, Adaptive Cruise Switch RH, Audio Controls Power Tilt, Power Telescope Steering Column

Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here. The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out. Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them. The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically. Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up. Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend. I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it. In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk. Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine. All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum. And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period.

Thank you so much for breaking that down for me. I just don't understand why Ford would do that, unless there is a safety issue?? I am recently questioning why I bought a Ford product, other than the fact that it was in my heart to buy an American built (assembled) vehicle, Especially with all the reliability issues compared to the foreign competition. I really love my Edge ST! I am blown away EVERY time I drive it. I sure hope I made a good decision.

I have ordered a superseded part number for my rear wheel speed sensors because they were cheaper, and they are fine. The difficult part is figuring out what changes were made with the part revisions.

@razziel24 it looks great. The work you did might not please all but, if you like it, it is great.

The last update I received on my 21MY Ford was Software Update 6.4.0 in February. I think the 21MY vehicles get updates last or whenever Ford feels like it. I don't know if you check other forums on vehicles with SYNC4 but it does seem like the 21s are last to be updated. Not much we can do stressing about updates, whenever we are blessed by Ford is when we will get updates

@STBEAST: 2024 Ford Edge Owner's Manual (PDF direct download link) Good luck!

Hey! Sorry for the delay, I forgot to update here. At the dealer, I got the same blank stare I always get when I ask a tech question. And then they tried to sell me an engine oil filter. Sigh... What I found online was SSM 47948. Google it, you will find it is a Ford service message to dealers instructing them to replace the turbo oil line screen any time turbo work is done. MacT did a video here:

I Love the Trapezoids! They are true Edge ST heritage! In my opinion they are the look of the ST

Welcome to the Forum @EdgeGT350! As @enigma-2 indicates, with us looking to the 2013 Edge Owners Guide pictured below (with relevant text highlighted in yellow )... However, before you disable your Edge's power liftgate, you may want to perform a Power Liftgate Reset to see if it eliminates the partial-opening issue... ion But, rather than disconnecting the vehicle's battery to perform the Reset, removing the Fuse #7 in the Power Distribution Box for 20 seconds fully performs the Power Liftgate Reset and it only affects the Power Liftgate circuit... Please consider reporting back here on what effect the Power Liftgate Reset has upon the partial opening issue. Other diagnostic steps are available if the Power Liftgate Reset procedure provides no improvement. Or, you can disable the Power Liftgate, per your original question. Good luck!