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I'm happy with this touch-up paint. It doesn't fill in the scrapes but does a good job of masking the curb rash. I might try filling some of the gouges and then using this paint. Midnight Gray Rim Touch Up Paint For Tesla Model S 19" Tempest Wheel Touch Up Paint Rim Scratch Repair Wheel Curb Rash Paint Pen(Midnight Gray)   $15

I finally wrapped up the full camera system install on my Edge. Front Camera I swapped out the factory grille for a black one that already had the camera mount integrated. Definitely the cleanest way to do it — no drilling and a perfect OEM-style fit. Side Cameras The side mirrors were straightforward. Routing the wiring and lining up the cameras was easy. Just a bunch of plastics to remove. Rear Camera This one took the most work. Like I mentioned in my previous post I wanted to retain the factory camera and system, and just add the new camera for the 360 view. I had to get creative. I decided to embed the camera in the logo. Marked and dremel’d out a custom recess behind the Ford emblem. Mounted the camera flush and secured it internally. Ran the wiring through the hatch. Calibrated the image afterward so the lines lined up correctly Honestly, this was the toughest part, but I’m happy with how the end result looks. I think I could have done a better job, or maybe could have thought of something else. But also I really wanted to finish the project. I think I'm going to redo the calibration after the holidays to get a better results but overall it's good. If anyone has ideas for cleaner mounting, I’m all ears.

Even though I never put a wrench to my Edge, except for maintenance, It’s been nice using this forum to learn a lot about it. I just had an itch to upgrade my car. I hope it’s as reliable as the Edge as there are lots gadgets on this thing. I now have a 2025 Lincoln Aviator reserve 2.

UPDATE, I did the same thing fishx65, used one of those Velcro pads and wedged it under the clip. No more rattle! What a nightmare that Ford could not figure this out. Thanks for this Forum.

Checked my records and the failed pads are Centric Posi Quiet - definitely avoid those. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/centric-posi-quiet-pad-delamination-on-both-sides-pic-included.356932/ .

I have the official printed version of the wiring diagram for the 2018 Edge. There is a good chance it is the same as the 2017. It shows that there is only one version of the wiring diagram for the headlamps. I think this is a pretty reliable source. It shows many instances where there are different wiring schemes for different equipment on the car. There are three fuses. F62 and F67. Both are 50amp that go to the BCM. One for each side. The third is a shared 10 amp, F20. (this might be for the HID igniter). I think there is a very good chance that they will work with the existing hardware and require a change with Forscan only.

Looks like the issue is solved. It appears that the previous owner hit a curb or something quite hard with the left rear wheel. It shifted the subframe slightly and bent the control arm. On dry roads there was enough resistance on the rubber that it didn't slip but as soon as it hit slippery the left wheel that was out of alignment would slip causing the swaying. I assume the tires were wearing badly which is why they put the new tires on it before selling the vehicle. Wasn't super expensive to repair. Alignment is good and runs nice and straight on ice now.

"Sometimes..."? I think most times. The search functionality on these forums is just not very good. Not just this forum, but almost all forums I visit. I have never had much luck finding anything on any of the forums I am on. But your advice about using Google is spot on. It even sometimes brings you to the very thread in a forum you were trying to find! Very frustrating.

I haven't heard of a software configuration that could be manipulated by the likes of Forscan. The RDU coupler can be disconnected which will make it permanent FWD.

This problem seems to happen with many Fords. My battery is almost 6 years old now. I have had the symptoms for about a year now. No start stop, radio powers off, no Fordpass, no keyless entry, etc. However, AGM batteries do a better job at hiding symptoms of a bad battery than lead acid. An old AGM battery will still start the car, but the battery will be very slow to accept charge. Some battery testers can be fooled by AGM batteries. Conductance testers estimate battery health by sending a tiny AC signal into the battery. AGM batteries will often show normal voltage, okay conductance, and acceptable internal resistance even when the battery is old and nearly worn out. Battery testers that actually put a real load on the battery will reveal the true battery health. The Edge is equipped with a slightly smaller H6 battery, while the Lincoln Nautilus is equipped with a slightly larger H7 battery.

Does the Edge have an undersized alternator? I do drive many short distances, but it only takes a couple of trips for the start-stop (yes, I know everyone hates that) to stop working and in about ten days, I get the battery saver message and all but the driver's door cannot be locked/unlocked from the outside. I have had the battery checked and replaced, but the problem did not go away. I bought an AC battery charger (Battery Tender) that plugs into my cigarette plug. I keep it on the charger when I am at home. It is a pain since I have to roll down a window to plug it in, but I do not want to get stuck somewhere. I have the first electric Edge!

being a computer guy, finally getting a vehicle with a computer and way to eff around with was peak curiosity. So far i have done the following using Forscan: Police Mode locked gear shift - Enabled Double Honk when running and exiting - Disabled Turn Signal flashes when tapped - 6 (increased from the default 3) Seat Belt Chimes - Disabled Door Ajar Chimes - Disabled Key Fob Remote Window Close - Enabled (only remote window open was enabled) Police Dark Car Mode - Enabled Silent Mode on Left Cluster Screen - Added SiriusXM as a media source - Disabled SiriusXM Travel Link - Disabled Climate Section on Right Cluster Screen - Enabled Sync3 Splash Screen - Raptor (changed from the default Ford logo) Auto Door Relock - 30 Seconds (lowered from 45 seconds) the only other things i was going to do in Forscan at this time from what i read were: - add the option to disable DRL into the IPC and enable the ability to do disable (being in Canada its mandatory to be enabled) - remove the turn signal from always being illuminated and only being active when turning (i think i saw someone do this on an earlier page - pg6 maybe) i updated Sync3.0 to Sync3.4 using Synupdater3 from Cyanlabs....such a nicer look and feel. i was also scanning through https://www.fmods.net/ but haven't yet done any mods or app installs but some do intrigue me.

i'll just pick up a set of glossy blacks vs getting them painted as they are beat up over the last 8yrs.

Good news, keeping the edge. Got it fixed cheap, probably gonna fall apart in a few years but hopefully get me through college.

Feeling adventurous? These go in your side mirrors. $18 https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-amber-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-super-red-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights

My current edge has this problem and I am pretty sure it is a tire tread pattern issue with grooved pavement. The bridgestones I'm driving on came new with this car (used purchase) and they have three deep center channels that run the circumference of the tire. It is my theory that these channel edges catch the grooves and walk with them until they change direction leading to the 'walk back and forth' motion from the rear end. It is my belief that any tire with pronounced center channels will have this problem. I've driven the same grooved roads before with nokian tires and not experienced the same motion. This is my professional amateur pseudoscientific theory of tire drift on grooved pavement.

I have a 2020 Edge titanium and want to add better driving lights. I bought two 150 watt lights and was wondering if I could just use the existing wiring for the stock fog lights. I would just disconnect the existing lights and attach the new lights there. That way they would turn off with brights on. Sound feasible, or would the new lights be too much draw on existing wiring, fuse and relay? Thanks in advance.

I just took my 2024 ST in for routine service, and I noticed on my service receipt manufacturers recall for a Transmission Control Assembly reimbursement. It is coded as 25L02. The dealer did not mention it to me; they probably didn't want to deal with it unless I was having an issue. It is not called a recall. Ford calls it a Customer Satisfaction Program, and it is Campaign #25L02. I am guessing there could be an issue with this assembly and it does not specify the symptoms. From what I googled Ford offers replacement in or out of warranty. Can anyone provide more details on this? I am going to call my Ford dealer and get more info. I am at 9,000 miles and I think there might be a slight clunk when I shift into reverse, but I need to verify as it has only happened a few times, and it coud be me not setting the parking brake. Also notice the transmission occasionally does a bit of an erratic shift (up or down) but it may be when I get on the throttle. Over all it seems fine.

First, please move this post to the appropriate section if not posted correctly. I recently changed oil at 1000 miles on my new 2016 edge sport that has the 2.7 ecoboost. Overall, it was a fairly simply process. However, I discovered some torn pieces of rubber/silicone material stuck in the oil filter element and also at the bottom of the housing assembly. The old filter had 3 O-ring gaskets which I replaced with 3 new gaskets so they were intact and not torn. I don't know where these pieces could have come from. Infant little worried if something broke somewhere and bits and pieces were circulated with the oil. Would appreciate if someone can chime in! Pictures shows the gasket like material discovered. These are not plastic pieces from the filter assembly. They are softer rubber like pieces. I couldn't find any other gaskets at the bottom once I cleaned the housing. From my understanding there are only 3 gaskets that is supposed to be replaced and the filter cap itself doesn't have a gasket of its own? Would appreciate any help!

@AB_Ford what Model/Year - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I got some Osram Nightbreaker bulbs coming in next week and I’ll be doing the install. I got a printout of the as built from the car I got the housings from and my current as built information so I know exactly what is different and what to change in Forscan. Will report back once install is complete.

Your intention is to enable the BCM to turn on the sensors . How did you connect to the BCM Did you wire it from the front bumper to inside the BCM or is there a connector to connect? Can you please give me the OEM for my 2020 ford edge front sensor

Directly can i add four front sensors and connect to BCM then works ? It means does not need calibration for touch screen?

https://ebay.us/m/GEobLn

I actually found it at O'Rielly's https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/lighting---electrical/connectors---terminals/parking-aid-sensor-connector/f150988703f7/standard-ignition-3-terminal-parking-assist-sensor-connector/std0/s2393/v/a/92778/automotive-suv-2010-ford-edge?q=parking+aid+sensor+connector Hoping to install it soon, but also need to find the bracket that holds the sensor in place on the bumper.

if you have a new ptu, like r and r, it may be a good idea to do it at 3k for break in period.

No, they're not the same.

I really dislike the touch screen when I want to engage with setting my vents and recirculation controls. I have to press the main button, at the bottom of the screen, then the recirculation button is all the way at the top of the screen. Its counter intuitive in my opinion and distracting to do when driving. Is there ANY way or third party UI to override so that I can place buttons on the screen where I want?

I realized that. It was -1°C.

This is warranty situation. This is a stock, limited, awd edge. They have fcs quick struts which you may not like. I was able disassemble them. The oe spetrums are have no gas charge left at 60k. This is not a performance application. I wonder how good the spring and strut bearing is on the fcs. The bearings are moog, they seem to be good still.

I have had mine (2022 ST) replaced already (AGM) in less than 1 year. From reading all over, it appears that there were a bunch of bad ones for that model. My date of production was 11/22 and replacement 8/23!

My dealer did mine a few years ago, as per the TSB, no issues so far. Just FYI that the TSB fix is holding.

I may or may not be able to provide any help for you, but no one can unless you provide a bit more information. Year, trim, is this a new to you car, have you done any work on it that may have affected the radio, etc. Welcome to the forum.

Problem solved. To try the cheap stuff first we changed plugs (it was due anyway since it's now at 270,000km) and the purge value since it was also inexpensive and easy to reach. We took it to an independent mechanic and they said they could not find anything wrong but they didn't have the ford specific scanners or tools to check things like fuel pressure. They replaced the PCV hose but that made no difference. We took it too the dealer and they said no codes, but the purge valve was leaking and the battery was low (I thought it odd to even test the battery since the issue reported was cranking excessively). We had them replace the purge valve (maybe the aftermarket one was bad) and suggested they test it by getting it up to operating temperature and trying to start it. The long start was still there when we picked it up but it was after hours so we had to reschedule. We then changed the battery on the off chance some low voltage condition could be contributing and the battery had a 2018 date on it. We dropped it off with them again and complained about their poor diagnostics and lack of follow up testing. We did not want them to just throw parts at it and hope for the best. This time they found a problem with the fuel pump so we had them change it. We didn't want to reward them with the extra business, but wanted to be able to hold them to account if they were just blindly replacing parts. It's been over a week with the new fuel pump and it's back to starting correctly. It still seems odd that the symptom only appeared when the engine was warm, but it's nice to not get all the stares in the parking lot when it cranks over so long before starting.

@Blk22Edge , @edgeidiot and @koofwhat model/year do you have? Please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ .

How to disable the trunk release button on the key fob using Forscan?

After re-reading previous, on the standard hvac setups, the heat/cold is controlled by an actuator on one side or the other (forget which) and has a plastic rod that extends over to the other side to control that side. I've seen a report where the rod broke. (I think it controlled the passenger sidevand the rod simultaneously controlled the drivers side. Easiest way to check is to watch the heat/cool door on the drivers side and switch between heat & a/c. If the passenger door moves but the drivers doesn't, you found your problem. If both move, the core is partly clogged. On the duel systems, each side is controlled separately with separate actuators. There is a history of these actuators failing in the Ford line. Its possible that the core is clogged again. Rather uncommon however. Most common cause is by using different coolants. Mix the wrong types are they congel forming a thick goo, and block part of the heater core. Never read where a flush cleared it. Think it would be better to disconnect the heater hoses and do a power flush just on the heater core. I did this many years ago by connecting the harden hose to one side heater hose and opening the tap. (Back then, Prestone sold a kit, a tee, to tap into your heater hose with a garden hose threaded connection on the top of the tee. Designed to do a flush at each coolant change.) Anyway, it worked. (But I'm not advising. Heater cores are made cheaper today.) .

Yes. The license plate was the source of mine too. I also noticed (new noise) that the trim pieces on the roof, both sides, just above windshield can make flappy/tappy noises at highway speeds and when I physically tap on them by hand, it replicates the noise.

Today I installed the RH CV Axle. The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it. The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH. The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now. The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

Or a completely new type of PTU with the disconnect?

Finally finished installing ambient lighting in my 2021 Edge. The cup holders are OEM and everything else is aftermarket. The cup holders are only ice blue, and they are controlled by the SYNC screen. In each door, I installed a light in the door handle, door storage, and an LED strip along the door trim. I also installed 4 LED lights under the seats to light up the footwell areas. I also installed an LED strip above the glove box. All of the aftermarket lights are controlled by a hidden physical switch or with Bluetooth from my phone. I was able to get the cup holders for free by using Fordpass Points, and the aftermarket lights were only $34 USD (including shipping) for everything. Overall I am happy with the new ambiance.

Welcome. 14.8v seems a little high. When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)? It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how. Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.

I am about to close a deal on a 2019 Edge Titanium Elite. I'm excited to learn more about it. I am a retired Ford parts manager, but have never owned an Edge.

Yes, you need to update the firmware of the module.

Hi folks: I took the 2019 Titanium for a test drive this evening. From what I can test it's running ok. I drove it a low speed (just below 60 Km/h) and I couldn't notice hesitation. I did notice a little bit of tremor when driving at around 30 km/h, but... hard for me to say if that's normal or not. It was not a good day to test it at high speed, it was a snowy day and the road was very wet. I just did a brief take off on a green light and... it was good, very good lol. I found the side sensors a little bit annoying because when the road snow stick to them they beep and the sales rep told me they can't be silenced, bummer. The sales rep didn't know if the tow hitch was after market or not lol. He pulled the window sticker and the trailer towing package is not listed there. I asked him for the service report, they didn't want to provide it to me because it has personal info but the sales manager read it over for me. I then asked him to print it out and black out the personla info. He told he'll do so. Meanwhile folks, I stlll need youjr help getting into the "fine prints": - if the reprogramming of the transmition hasn't been done, questions: - how do I make them to do it? - does anyone know how much it costs for them to do it? - is that something that happenes to all Edge 8F35, to most Edge 8F35, to some Edge 8F35? - does is get worse if not corrected? Not sure if I'm asking the correct questions. Basically, what resources do I have to make them reprogram the transmition? And this is probably the only discrepancy I have with Ford, they barely do recalls, even knowing that they have a problem Huston lol. Thanks in advance once again for all your help. PS: STBEAST, if that's yours, nice ST beast! lol

I don’t use mine for towing. I just use it for a bike rack. I don’t have any trailer lights wired up. There is an optional trailer package, which includes extra cooling and trailer sway control.

Solved. The culprit was DC-DC for dashcam. Ford Edge 1 generation has common 315 MHz antenna for TPMS and Key Fob and very sensitive to Electro-Magnetic Interference. Now Key Fob distance is 20 meters and TPMS reads all tire sensors without issues.

Thanks for replying. 2008 Ford Edge AWD SEL I had the issue with TPMS with error message. I replaced sensors 3 times. BTW I see the issue is not in sensors. I use forscan app +OBD reader to read all PIDs for tire pressure sensors. All sensors values (LR, LF, RF) updated, but RR sensor value (located most distance from receiver) updated very seldom. If RR doesn't pull values in 20 mins SJB considers it as fault. I suspected TPMS receiver. I know it is located in Smart Junction Box. I guess the TPMS antenna for this model is inside SJB. Is it correct ? Now I have another issue: Poor Key Fob Range. Before I could lock/unlock in distance ~20 meters. Now I can do it only in 1-2 meter. I replaced a battery in key, but the same result. Are there some workarounds to fix it ? Should I replace SJB in this case ? According wire diagram TPMS and RKE use the same antenna (315 MHZ) Check wires, connections, fuses ?

It seems to common across all Ford products (a lot of complaints in the F150 forum). Been tracked a loose torx screw seems to be the cause. https://www.f150forum.com/f118/driver-seat-seat-shifting-turns-345647/ Focus forum. http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/45474-2015-st-loose-wobbly-seat.html#/topics/45474

Here are the three changes I made on 2017 Edge Sport, and One I am thinking about: double honk edge 15+ - Confirmed except there was one other bit set and I left it set: These are the ADB values for 2015+ Edge: BdyCM 726-41-02 0001 0000 0071 (Double Honk Enabled, Default) BdyCM 726-41-02 0000 0000 0070 (Double Honk Disabled) # 4th/12th digit number is 1: double honk enabled # 4th/12th digit number is 0: double honk disabled Police mode - Confirmed BdyCM as built 726-42-01 x0xx xxxx xxxx set to 1 Prevents vehicle transmission from shifting out of Park without passive key inside vehicle (Shifter Locked w/No Key Detected message) 0=Disabled 1=Enabled Turn Signal Flash Count Confirmed to 5 blinks SCCM 724-01-01 xxxx x6xx xx xxxx x*xx xx Replace * with one of the following: 0=1 Flash OUC False 1=1 Flash OUC True 2=1 Flash OUC False 3=1 Flash OUC True 4=2 Flashes OUC False 5=2 Flashes OUC True 6=3 Flashes OUC False 7=3 Flashes OUC True 8=4 Flashes OUC False 9=4 Flashes OUC True A=5 Flashes OUC False B=5 Flashes OUC True C=6 Flashes OUC False D=6 Flashes OUC True E=7 Flashes OUC False F=7 Flashes OUC True On Until Cancelled (OUC) means manually moving the turn signal arm in opposite direction or manually cancelling the turn signal. Two flashes are added automatically when trailer is attached. I am thinking about this one: Enable Reverse Side Mirror Tilt: 261 720-02-01 (2013+ MY) xxxx Xxxx xxxx Note: Press Mirror Left or Right Switch before shifting into reverse (IPC) 3 (Disabled - Default) 7 (Enabled) Add Hex 4 to Existing Value: 3+4=7 740-03-01 (2013+ MY) Xxxx xx (DDM) 6 (Disabled - Default) 7 (Enabled) 740-13-01 (2013+ MY) XXxx (DDM) 00 (Disabled - Default) FC (Enabled) 741-03-01 (2013+ MY) Xxxx xx (PDM) 6 (Disabled - Default) 7 (Enabled) 741-13-01 (2013+ MY) XXxx (PDM) 00 (Disabled - Default) FC (Enabled)