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Hello fellow edge owners. I recently purchased this 2020 Ford Edge TITANIUM with 22k miles. I owned a 2011 a few years ago, but had to sell that off due to my growing family. Love these cars. Located in the Philadelphia, Pa. region.

I wanted to provide some closure on my whine/roar. After spraying the center bushing with lubricant and the whine/roar going away, I pulled the trigger and ordered a new center bushing. I used ramps on the passenger side to have the length of the vehicle up. I had to drop the exhaust, prior to cat (had to grind off the bolts), I then jacked up the front driver side to get the wheel enough off the ground so I could turn the driveshaft. I did put the transmission in Neutral, with the parking brake on and the rear driver wheel chalked. I removed the bolts holding the shaft on. The ends were "stuck". I sprayed with penetration fluid. I used some force, and mistakenly pulled the dust housing off the rear (very bad move on my part). I finally had to use a chisel and tap it out. The front came out with no issues. No matter the videos I watched. the amount of force I applied or the penetration fluid I applied, the shaft was NOT separating. After looking more at the rear of the shaft, I realized that by pulling off the dust cover, it was going to be an issue if I was able to get it back together. I had to order a new driveshaft. In the meantime, we drove the car for 2 weeks without a drive shaft with zero issues. No check engine lights nor performance issues that I could tell. I installed the new driveshaft, with the new center bushing and it's back to normal. No whine at all. At the end of the day, l spent a lot of time on my back and learned some lessons, but I think I still made out spending less than going to the dealer. I hope this helps someone.

Wanting to spend a few hundred dollars wisely? Drive through the poor section of your town and drop 30 $10 dollar bills out the window or, pick an Angel off the Christmas Tree @ the mall. Watch the video before you spend your hard earned $$$$!

While the tips are in shadows, they look to be burning correctly, the tips worn round, and the end of the ground strap eroded, so certainly time to get it done. I did mine earlier just to get it done during a good time to work, between long drives, weather cooperating, etc. I did mine at 82k, a little erosion on the ground strap, but the precious metal tip was still square, could have gone much much longer, but for how cheap it was to do, if I pull them I replace them.

New control arm was delivered this afternoon and its installed. Examining the old control arm bushes and ball-joint I'd say its in perfect serviceable condition. The job is a real challenge and my advice is don't tackle this on your own in your garage - at least have a friend work with you and better still have a shop lift. The bolts were SUPER tight - had to use a makeshift extension to my long breaker bar. It is really difficult to get the bushes engaged and the ball joint. The drive shaft popped out and spilt a little more than half a quart - I just let it dribble into an oil pan while I manipulated the control arm into place. Tomorrow I'll take it for a drive to get the tans temps up and then top up the fluid - not expecting any change to the shimmy shake, but if it has resolved it I'll be very happy. Now I'm thinking possibly the strut bearing?

Just recently, I went to open the shade for my sunroof (2019 Edge ST) and near the end of travel, it sounded like gears stripping, etc. I just took it in to the local Ford dealer (Stillwell Ford in Hillsdale, MI) and they gave me an estimate of $1800 (OUCH!) I declined obviously, so I wanted to ask if that is a known issue and maybe get pointed to some repair it yourself videos. I am capable, having been a mechanic/engineer for over fifty years. Thanks very much. (Love the car, lament that I got the panaorama roof) RPG

I was able to to finalize it last weekend. Each radar must be connected to MS can, power and gnd. Indicator led pins are in mirror connectors. Activation in IPC and door modules. Works perfectly.

I ran a can of BG44K cleaner through a few weeks ago. I gained ~2 mpg from this I believe after looking at the mileage. I am pretty sure this edge had never had the injector cleaner treatment before this. So if you have an edge with more than 60K and have never had it done - I would say it is worth it. I also switched at the last oil change to Valvoline restore and protect. I have had good results with my wife's escape on this oil - so I will see how it does in the Edge.

From the 10 Oct 2025 Recall Report NHTSA: The vehicle may not emit pedestrian warning sounds in certain instances where there is an error in the audio processing software and the vehicle is driven below 30 kph in electric mode. This condition can occur randomly without input from the driver. Nautilus Hybrid Production Dates: Apr 04, 2023 - Sep 23, 2025; Number of potentially involved: 31,362 Ford Explorer Police Hybrid Production Dates: Dec 08, 2023 - Sep 26, 2025; Number of potentially involved: 12,076 Description of Safety Risk If the vehicle does not emit pedestrian warning sounds while being driven in electric mode below 30kph, pedestrians may not be able to determine by sound whether there is an approaching vehicle, increasing the risk of injury to pedestrians. Description of the Cause Software-related faults in the Audio System, specifically within the Digital Signal Processor (DSP) or the Audio Control Module (ACM), may lead to loss of pedestrian alert sounds. Identification of Any Warning That May Occur The driver may observe a message on the Instrument Panel Cluster stating "Pedestrian Sounder Fault. Service Now". Planned Dealer Notification Date: Oct 10, 2025 - Oct 10, 2025 Planned Remedy Owner Notification Date: Nov 10, 2025 - Nov 14, 2025 From the Advance Notice to Dealers: SERVICE ACTION DO NOT DEMONSTRATE OR DELIVER any new in-stock vehicles involved in this safety recall. For new vehicle storage guidelines, refer to EFC13033, Storage Guidelines for New Vehicles. A complete Dealer Bulletin will be provided to dealers the Fourth Quarter of 2025 when it is anticipated that a remedy including repair instructions will be available to support this safety recall. IMPORTANT: Dealers should open a Repair Order (RO) only when a full dealer bulletin is published. Opening an RO against an Awareness or Advance Notice will result in warranty rejections against a recall. OWNER NOTIFICATION Owners of record will be notified via first-class mail after remedy availability including repair instructions have been provided to dealers. PLEASE NOTE: Federal law requires dealers to complete this recall service before a new vehicle is delivered to the buyer or lessee. Violation of this requirement by a dealer could result in a civil penalty of up to $27,168 per vehicle. Correct all vehicles in your new vehicle inventory prior to delivery. DEALER-OPERATED RENTAL VEHICLES The Fixing America’s Surface Transportation (FAST) Act law effective June 2016 prohibits a rental company from selling, renting or leasing vehicles subject to a safety recall. Please consult your legal counsel for legal advice. Attachments: RCLRPT-25V691-9732 - The initial report to NHTSA RCMN-25V691-6430 - The Advance Notice to Dealers RCLRPT-25V691-9732.pdf RCMN-25V691-6430.pdf

If you connect your phone to your vehicle using only a wired connection, such as using USB wired CarPlay or Android Auto, 911 assist will not work if Bluetooth is disabled on your phone! Instead, the system will search for another previously paired phone in the vehicle, and if it successfully connects, it will place the call through that phone. Do not disable Bluetooth on your phone. Before using CarPlay or Android Auto, ensure your phone is paired to the vehicle with Bluetooth. What is 911 Assist? 911 Assist is a SYNC system feature that can call for help. HOW DOES 911 ASSIST WORK? If a crash deploys an airbag, excluding knee airbags and rear inflatable seatbelts, or activates the fuel pump shut-off, your vehicle may be able to contact emergency services by dialing 911 through a paired and connected Bluetooth enabled phone. Not all crashes deploy an airbag or activate the fuel pump shut-off. If a connected cell phone sustains damage or loses its connection to SYNC during a crash, SYNC searches for and tries to connect to a previously paired cell phone. SYNC then attempts to call the emergency services. Before making the call: SYNC provides about 10 seconds to cancel the call. If you fail to cancel the call, SYNC attempts to dial 911. SYNC says the following, or a similar message: SYNC will attempt to call 911, to cancel the call, press Cancel on your screen or press and hold the phone button on your steering wheel. If you do not cancel the call and SYNC makes a successful call a pre-recorded message plays for the 911 operator. The occupants in your vehicle are able to talk with the operator. Be prepared to provide your name, phone number and location immediately because not all 911 systems are capable of receiving this information electronically. During an emergency call the system transmits vehicle data to the emergency service. SYNC must be powered and working properly at the time of the incident and throughout feature activation and use. The 911 Assist feature must be set on before the incident. You must pair and connect a Bluetooth enabled and compatible cell phone to SYNC. A connected Bluetooth enabled phone must have the ability to make and maintain an outgoing call at the time of the incident. A connected Bluetooth enabled phone must have adequate network coverage, battery power and signal strength. The vehicle must have battery power and be located in the U.S., Canada or in a territory in which 911 is the emergency number. Note: If any user sets 911 Assist to on or off, that setting applies for all paired phones. If 911 Assist is switched off and the phone is connected to SYNC, an icon displays on the status bar. Note: Every phone operates differently. While SYNC 911 Assist works with most cellular phones, some may have trouble using this feature. EMERGENCY CALL LIMITATIONS The SYNC 911 Assist feature only operates in the U.S., Canada or in a territory in which 911 is the emergency number. Your cellular phone or 911 Assist hardware sustains damage in a crash. The vehicle's battery or the SYNC system has no power. The phone(s) thrown from your vehicle are the ones paired and connected to the system.

The AWD was displaying the OFF message because the ABS module with error U3000-49 was causing communication interference on the CAN bus, preventing the wheel speed from being correctly transmitted to the AWD. This caused it to shut down as a protective shutdown. The solution is mentioned in the original post about the ABS module, which I resolved and detailed below.

This problem of delay in the IPC module was being caused by interference from the ABS module, which caused communication noise in the CAN network due to error U3000-49. The solution is in the original post for the main ABS problem.

I have the same noise on my 2020. I will try those fixes and report back. Thanks

I recently purchased an Edge ST and there are several pieces of interior trim in high gloss piano black that are posing a bit of a problem. They are around the center console shifter, and happen to reflect the sun directly into my eyes quite often. I searched around and there are no simple or ready-made fixes, at least that I could find, I was hoping for a finishing product or film that I could apply to protect and dull the surface, as the sun being reflected is a nuisance and possibly a safety concern. Does anyone know of a solution or have solved the issue of excessively reflective interior surfaces? Maybe a satin or matte wrap product? Any solutions would be welcome, thanks.

I have found some "shift panel covers" on Amazon. Matte and carbon fiber look. I normally wrap these but haven't so far, but it is annoying, especially if you have the pano roof and either the cover open, or the roof open.

Yes. There is another way in ForScan to disable auto start/stop without affecting the BMS. Posted it earlier here.

I will definitely be replacing everything behind the timing cover, only want to do this once. I drained a majority of the contaminated fluid, let it drain for about an hour. Filled.with fresh oil. Did not add coolant, -2 celcius so was not worried about it overheating running for a few min. Wanted to start the car to see if it was hammering or knocking. That would be the deciding factor as to whether or not I fix or sell. Sounded good so as soon as I finish the front hubs on the Mazda, into the garage it goes.

Purchased my first Edge. Got a one owner 2015 SEL 3.5 with 23,000 original miles. Believe it or not it’s had 9 oil changes!

I just purchased a 2015 Ford Edge SEL with 24,000 original miles. Had all the information I could have asked for except the keyless door code. After standing on my head trying to find it under the dash, I remembered my Xtools scan tool. Sure enough, about five minutes later I found the code in the BCM folder. I really like my Xtools.

Welcome. Sure gets good reviews - Amazon.com: XTOOL D7 Bidirectional OBD2 Scanner: 2025 Scan Tool with ECU Coding, Full System Car Scanner Diagnostic Tool, 36+ Resets, Injector Coding, Throttle Relearn, Crank Sensor Relearn, FCA, CANFD & DoIP : Automotive I haven't tried it but expect the free Forscan app should have that capability. Please add the details you have in your profile to your signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum .

"Were you listing to Boss Radio (Rock and Roll) in the 60's?" WLS out of Chicago & WSM out of Nashville. Dick Biondi was a crazy DJ on WLS back in the 60's. Screaming, always screaming. Huge audience. Used to call himself the "wild I-tralian." First DJ in the country to introduce the Beatles. Several others as well. Remember he held a contest, which did the audience think would be the bigger hit, the "Beatles" Please, Please Me, or a song (forget which) by the "Peanut Butter Conspiracy." (Care to guess who won?) That was the first time Americans ever heard the Beatles. Anyway, I remember that night (for certain other reasons.) That was right after a basketball sectional game, back in 63. (H.S. Basketball - Indiana.) He got fired after he cracked the joke "guess what new game they're playing in Washington? Its called Jack-in-the-box." (Jackie Kennedy just announced that she was pregnant.) They cut to commercial and when they came back, he was gone. That was the night the music died. (At least on AM radio ... Dick Biondi was as big a celebrity as we had in the Midwest. And we'd pretty much forgotten Buddy Holly by then.) .

Thanks, I took another look yesterday and the oil is brownish in colour and goofy, as my son described it.

Were you listing to Boss Radio (Rock and Roll) in the 60's? Here in Los Angeles, the only music on AM radio today is from stations broadcasting in foreign languages. Some manufacturers (especially in electric vehicles) no longer include AM radio. Here is an explanation why AM radio does not sound as good in your Edge versus your Mustang: Proliferation of LED lights, switching power supplies, electric vehicles, broadband over power lines, and compact electronics has raised the AM noise floor substantially in many urban and suburban areas, reducing usable coverage and intelligibility.

No, I haven't tried that. And I'm not trying to be rude, but I guess I look at it this way; the radio should work as well as the AM radio in a 1969 Ford Mustang, and it doesn't.

explorerrob with the coolant leaking into the oil sump you won't see white smoke out the exhaust.

Hi, I have tried searching but have not found anything about about my problem. I have a 2007 Edge SEL with the 3.5. Earlier today it started running rough and the temp gauge cranked into the red. I stopped the car and checked the coolant. There was non in in the reservoir. I had my son bring me some coolant. While waiting I checked the oil. It was way above full. We dumped in 8 liters(2 gallons) of coolant. I started the car and it was running fine so I started heading home, after about 10 or 15 min it the temp starting creeping up again and then hit the red. Just as I was pulling up to the front of my house it stalled. Looked at the reservoir again and it was empty. Checked the oil and it had gone up a lot more. This is the part that confuses me. There is no white smoke from the exhaust and the biggest thing is the oil still looks dark. It is not milky or frothy or anything that would point to coolant in the oil, but my coolant going down and the oil level going up points that direction, that is the weird thing. Possible water pump? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

In my opinion there would be no clunking if the splines were in good condition regardless of the axle nut torque. I expect the permanent solution to be "The only remedy would be to replace the axle/shaft and inspect the wheel hub/bearing for similar spline damage which would most likely also need replacement". https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636 As far as warranty goes, you would need to loosen the nuts again for them to witness the fault condition and hope that they don't mask the issue but merely torquing the nuts.

Having just hit the 100k mile mark on my 2017 Sport, I am working through some recommended maintenance items. First - Spark plugs - while at the dealer for separate small issue with a wheel bearing, I inquired about some of these items. The spark plugs where quoted at $549, which includes 2.5 hrs labor + the 6 plugs. I also called two other major shops and they all landed on the same number of hours, but a slightly different rate. Still spark plugs would have been close to the $500 mark. Second - transmission flush quoted at $249. Third - Brake fluid flush $225 Fourth - serpentine belt $260 Of these items I figured let's look at the ones that I may be able to do. First on the list was spark plugs. I looked up and ordered what the book called for which are the Motorcraft SP594. As recommended in nother forums I stuck with the OEM rather than messing with changing something. After looking at some videos which were not easy to find for the edge sport 2.7 l, I figured I could do this having worked on many cars and motorcycles over the years. To keep the story short, while the book calls while the book calls for an experienced ASE mechanic to do this in 2.5 hrs. I'm sure that an experienced mechanic does this in under 1 hour since it only took me just under 2hrs ( with interruptions) - while I had to study everything that had to be done and had a small issue I had to resolve with a plastic connection, I'm just a hobbyist mechanic and have never worked on this engine. If I had to do this job again, I am sure I can do it in well less than an hour and a half - imagine an experienced mechanic. I know that they have to make money, but this is a huge gap in what it takes an experienced mechanic to do and charge book hours, versus somebody who's never done it before. So basically if somebody that has some mechanical experience is willing to tackle this, it's definitely very doable in 2 hrs or less with just some slight patience. Attached is a picture of what my spark plugs look like at 103k miles. And I say 103k because I assume that they were not changed since I didn't see anything specific in the car maintenance background to indicate they were done any earlier. I've owned the vehicle since 60k miles. I'll be taking the vehicle in somewhere (not the stealer) to have the two flush services done because that's definitely something I don't want to do. I'll then tackle the serpentine belt.

Update! A month or so ago, I was passing some trucks on the freeway, on boost, when the boost went away, the 'wrench' light came on, and cruise control would not work. Got off the freeway, stopped for some coffee and on startup, the wrench went away, but the Check Engine Light (CEL) was on, and still no power or cruise control. Forscan was showing me two codes, P0243 and P0299. Both related to the turbocharger wastegate. Okay, back to Ford service who, on two previous visits, gave me the 'no codes, no problem' blowoff and said something to the tune of, 'It's running normally'. So now they acknowledge a problem with the 'wastegate solenoid', order a new part, and schedule the install. They wouldn't give me the old part, but said I could look at it in the parts department. So I did, and it did not look like any of the pictures I had seen of the vacuum based system everybody shows for the 2020 Edge. I was p*ssed they just pulled something off the shelf to make the idiot customer go away. But when I got home and looked under the car, sure enough there was a new version of the part they showed me at the dealer. An electric motor version that looks like the 'control solenoid' is built in. Researching that, it appears the wastegate controller on my engine is the same as that used on the 2021+ Lincoln Nautilus. The build date on my car is December 2020, and the Edge and Nautilus are (were) built on the same assembly line, so it makes some sense there might have been some parts sharing, especially since that was the Covid era. In the meantime, my brother, who bought an F-150 twin turbo brand new a few years back noticed some surging within a few days of taking delivery. He took it back and the service manager said, 'no codes no problem', but he also said to try premium fuel, regardless of Ford and the manual saying it could handle the 87 octane bilge water. He did that and the problem disappeared. I did that too. I am now running Tier 1 premium fuel, and with the wastegate fix, my car is running so good I am almost afraid to mention it, fearing I might jinx things. Everything is better, the engine is smoother, even the transmission and its' goofy shift points and lockup strategy seems happier. This is the car I was hoping for. Haven't checked the mileage yet. Wish I could say which one of the changes did the trick, but I was desperate and the timing worked out that two things got changed more or less at the same time. Next step is to scan things again myself to see if I can spot anything interesting. But for now, this thing sure is fun to drive. Good luck to you all

That kit will be good enough to get you to a tire shop but I would not take days to make up your mind where to go. IIRC, once that sealant is used, you may not be able to re-use that damaged tire. Has to do with the sealant all over the inside of the tire. Best option? Determine the size needed for a spare tire and buy one with a wheel that fits your car. And remember, spare tires are designed for temporary use, no more than about 50 miles before the tire degrades. I know people have driven a lot longer than that on a spare tire, but you are taking a chance of perhaps getting into a bad accident because when things go wrong, they go wrong at the wrong at the wrong time in the wrong place. Murphy's Law of the Universe

I actually got mine to work, only 14 years after this topic was opened! And to respond to vmozer, its not a pcm setting, it needs wiring done...

The W speed rated ones are specific to the Maserati (not sure what model). They have 1/32 more tread depth (12/32 vs 11/32). This model tire has a lot of OEM specific tires (lets say tyres looking at the list). Some with sound deadening foam, various tread depths, different load ranges, even for the same size. While the scores seem okay on Tirerack, the over all recommended score is pretty low. I entertained these for mine, but went with a much cheaper tire that seems to meet my requirements better (cheap!, but also all other boxes checked, and lots of reviews on tirerack, with my driving environment and style). I got them same day at Discount, versus shipped 2 days from Tirerack, so forgoing 2 year road hazard for only 1 (from the manufacturer) for $150 less. I should do a mini review now that I have a few thousand miles on them. I just don't like Costco for tires because the last 2 times it was torture, and I will save myself from that if I can. Both times they annihilated the stupid Ford capped lug nuts (only third time they had been removed, in the the driest place in the US so no freeze, rust, expanding), and missing the 7500 mile rotation (I do them myself at oil changes, usually 5000-7500 miles) they wouldn't do warranty exchange on one that was evenly worn, the manufacturer stepped up. Nitrogen fill not enough, they might be worse that Walmart.

That’s a great point — I’ll definitely have the battery tested for CCA instead of just relying on voltage. Makes sense that low current under load could trigger those random electronic errors. Thanks for the tip and the link!

About 5 years ago I switched all my vehicles over to Amsoil SVG. I did this based on the widespread independent reviews that included lab results.

I have a 2019 ST with 93k miles. I thought the auto trans had a dipstick so I removed the air box. All I see is a rubber sort of clamp that I would expect to be where the dipstick is. I removed it and it definitely gives access to the inside of the tranny. So I grabbed a very long thin screwdriver, inserted it, but didn't see any evidence of fluid. I know it has fluid as it runs and shifts fine, so I have a couple of questions. Is there a way to check the fluid level? Is there a fluid change interval? Is there a drain plug? What is the quantity after a fluid change? What is the recommended fluid and amount? Thanks very much!!!!

What's up all? I currently have a 2010 Ford Edge Sport that I bought used in 2015 that has been super reliable and have been very pleased with, but I'm getting to a point where I want to look at something newer. I'm familiar with the 2017 model via my now-Ex and liked the handling and seating quite a bit, so on that basis, I feel good about sticking with the Edge line. I'm looking at some 2022 models on the market, but I wanted to see if there are any "gotchas" I should be aware of. From reading around, the reliability ratings aren't quite what I would have liked to see, but not deal breakers. One concern I saw was issues using Apple CarPlay and failure to connect. This is something that will be important for me. There were no issues with it that I recall with my Ex's Edge, although it's been a few years. My own Edge has a Pioneer head unit with CarPlay, so I have experience in that regard. Anything else, positive or negative, that are worth mentioning, I'd appreciate hearing about.

I have acquired a scrapyard PTU and want to install all new seals and a drain. I'm having difficult time finding these part numbers. Can anyone PLEASE help. The PTU unit i got is marked as AT43-7251-DJ

You are kidding - The Peanut Butter Conspiracy? According to Wikipedia, the Peanut Butter Conspiracy was an American, Los Angeles-based, psychedelic pop/rock group from the 1960s. The band is known for lead singer Barbara Robison and for briefly having Spencer Dryden of Jefferson Airplane as a band member. The album's producer brought in studio musicians including Glen Campbell (yes that Glen Campbell) to bolster the group's sound.

On my car, the shark fin serves two functions (that I'm aware of), one section serves the Siris Radio reception and the other is for GPS. My car has a separate antenna for AM/FM. In driving later year's Edge models (loaners) I dis notice much poorer reception (rural in my area. Only able to listen to three (local) stations. Others were extremely poor. Even on my MKX, reception is still iffy. But then again, I never listen to AM anyway. Mostly Sirus Radio (probably 95%), CD's and DVD's, talking books recorded to the hard drive, or connected jump drives. In later models, I believe that it also connects to cell towers for modem service through the internet. (I've also read that it provides Bluetooth service as well.)

Hello All: The title says it all - I have a few questions: 1. I have about 73k on the clock. I am getting a periodic #4 misfire code and will be replacing the spark plugs/coil packs. Any recommendations in terms of brand? 2. Downloaded the specs and was surprised to see that premium fuel is recommended. I have never burned anything other than 87 octane and am wondering if this is an issue. 3. I have black leather interior, and am now seeing faded white splotches. Anyone else have this problem? Fixes?

It would be best to assess the likelihood of coolant intrusion before spending money on parts and labor and then we can move this thread to the one discussing that. A simple test that places like AutoZone can do, is to sniff for combustion gases in the cooling system - the thread on coolant intrusion has more details on the testing. Don't expect you'll see white smoke from the exhaust with the intrusion issue. .

No white smoke.

"the radio should work as well as the AM radio in a 1969 Ford Mustang" Back in 1968. AM radio was still widely listened to. Today's it's considered as a last (distant) choice. Back in 69 your car used a 42" whip, sticking out of the front fender. Great place for reception. But it killed the looks of the car. So they relegated to antenna to a "that oughta be good nuf".

If the effect of Re-torquing the axle nut is short lived, it suggests that the splines are worn, possibly due to lack of spline lube during installation and/or the axle nut not being torqued properly. The only remedy would be to replace the axle/shaft and inspect the hub for similar spline damage which would most likely also need replacement.

Well done! I just bought a 2020 Edge ST with 77k and one of the first things did was an Unleashed tune and 1-step colder Ruthenium plugs. I was a car/motorcycle mechanic in the Stone Age so it wasn’t terrible, but the rear three kinda sucked haha. One of the threaded inserts on the rear coils came out with the bolt. A bit of JB Weld hopefully keeps it in place for now. I need to do all the fluids next. Still doing my research.

It’ll test you and probably make some words fly out, but if you intend on keeping it for some time and doing this regularly, you’ll thank yourself for doing it.

RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W Disconnect RDU Fluid XY-75W-QL PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Rear Axle Fluid XY-75W85-QL / WSS-M2C942-A ATF: Motorcraft MERCON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-12-QULV / WSS-M2C949-A / MERCON ULV

As I posted in my topic of front end noise with our 2016 Edge at 48,000 miles. Our 2016 Ford Edge Titanium has made a front suspension noise for the past year. I first noticed the noise at about 48,000 miles, and is now at 56,000 miles. It was first heard/felt as a clunk or knock in what I believed was the left front suspension area and when first moving from a stop, eventually to an extreme grinding and popping when turning or going over a bump. I could feel it in the floorboard. Our driveway is gravel and has a long turn-radius of about 200 feet. During the entire turn, the clunking is VERY noticeable. When I asked the dealership where we purchased the vehicle new in Feb of 016 of the noise, they could not duplicate the noise when I enquired about it when they did an oil change, nor did they find anything wrong on a subsequent oil change. I asked if they have had any complaints about front end noise and they said they didn't but they did state they had replaced quite a few strut bearing plates. They said there were no TSB's on that problem. Several visual front end suspension inspections showed no obvious faults. Out of frustration, I even removed the drivers side strut for an inspection but couldn't find anything wrong. Shortly after I had the last oil change, I noticed the vehicle would not track in a straight line and any road imperfections would send the vehicle into another lane. When they changed the oil, the vehicle was lifted, unloading the front suspension. This sudden difference in driving attitude told me something was loose causing a tire toe change. I raised the vehicle myself and found that the drivers side lower control arm ball joint had almost 1/4" movement! This lower ball joint movement resulted in about 1/2" tire toe in-toe out while driving. I obtained an estimate from the dealership for a replacement and was quoted around $650.00 with the arm being almost $375.00 alone (the ball joint is integral to the lower control arm). I ordered one online with the proper bolts and replaced it myself. The noise is now gone and the vehicle drives normally. I will be checking the passenger side ball joint more thoroughly as my wife says she feels a knock in the passenger floorboard too. I checked it when I had the arm off but I felt there wasnt enough movement to require replacement. According to my online Chiltons repair manual, there should be no play in the joint but I felt a little. Question: I have been driving vehicles since the mid 1960's, many well over 250,000 miles and many others with never replacing a ball joint under 100,000 miles. Somehow, this feels like abnormally premature ball joint wear. No one can say it was due to a lack of maintenance as the joint does not have a lube fitting. The vehicle has never been in an accident or curb hopped. About me: I am a retired ASE Master Auto and HD Truck Technician, one of the first group to be certified as such in 1976. I taught advanced automotive diagnostics and repair at the local Community College in the mid to late 80's and fully retired as the director of education for a nationally recognized automotive training program. I retired the ASE Master status in 2000 and served on the ASE advisory panels for over 10 years (I helped write the tests). To simply put things into perspective, I feel I know my way around a vehicle and feel fully competent in repairing faults and performing most of our vehicle repairs.

Final update: After I doublechecked the passenger side lower ball joint, I found it to be considerably out of spec as well plus the rubber boot showed signs of wear. This in a vehicle that sees no abnormal use and just at 55,000 miles. I replaced it (the lower control arm) as well and after an alignment, all feels like new again. Still, I feel considerably disappointed that a vehicle with this mileage showed such abnormal ball joint wear. The vehicle was unsafe to drive with these ball joints at the wear level. It would dart from one lane to another on some roads. Lastly, when I priced the repair at our local dealer, he indicated he would use "Quality Ford Replacement Parts". My quick response was "the original quality ford parts were pretty crappy, why should I use them again!"

Thanks, I did find an 'As built' I had downloaded before starting mods.