omar302

Like what Jason said. Go to the MyKey settings, MyKey info, it will show how many "Admin Keys" & "MyKeys" are programmed to the vehicle. The total reflects how many keyfobs are programmed to your vehicle.

Welcome to the forums. Hope you enjoy your Edge. Guessing front license plate bracket holes?

For the driver's door, as @circatee mentioned above, you can use the emergency key (key blade) that's inside the keyfob. This is from the Owners manual (link to the 2021 Edge Owners Manual? The other 3 doors can be locked, again using the key blade, you have to open the doors to lock them. You can't unlock them manually from the outside, so you'll have to open them from the inside by pulling the inside door handles (pull twice on the rear doors).

An alternate was was found on the F-150 to disable Auto Start/Stop using ForScan without having to disable the BMS. Can't try it as my Edge doesn't have auto start/stop. 730-01-02 xxxx xxxx x*xx Start/Stop change * to: 0=disabled, 1=enabled This is the Post from the F-150 forums.

I did not try this as my Edge does not have Auto Start/Stop, but for those wanting to disable Auto Start/Stop,an alternate way was posted on the F-150 Forums that does not involve disabling the BMS. May will also work on the Edge. 730-01-02 xxxx xxxx x*xx Start/Stop change * to: 0=disabled, 1=enabled This is the Post from the F-150 forums.

Enabled the Seatbelt monitor feature of the MKX Cluster. 720-02-02 xx** xxzz change ** to 84 or 85 or 86 or 87, they all worked. I didn't find any difference, but from what I think 84 is closest to the MKX value while 87 is closest to the Euro Edge. But, it only works for the front seats & rear outboard seats, meaning the rear middle seatbelt is not monitored. Also, my Edge has the inflatable rear seatbelts, so not sure if this would work on non-inflatable seatbelt equipped Edge/MKX. What this does, upon startup a small seatbelt grey icon with the number of fastened seatbelts appears. The same icon appears for 3-4 seconds whenever a monitored seatbelt is buckled and shows the current total number of buckled seatbelts. Whenever a rear outboard seatbelt is unbuckled a warning message appears. Also a menu for seatbelts appears under vehicle settings that shows the current status. Seatbelt counter icon: Seatbelt warning when a rear outboard seatbelt is unbuckled: Seatbelt Menu:

As far as I know, there are other hardware differences, like the door handles are different. For passive entry the door handles have to be equipped with sensors. This guy in the video below added passive entry to his Fusion, read the description to you'd get some idea of what's involved, definitely not only programming. https://youtu.be/cWX56shScUc

What model Edge do you have? Not all SE models have passive entry as it is an option on the SE.

On my 2016 Edge it works anytime the Glove box is opened. Check what @enigma-2 said above, just like how the LED was removed from its place, the connector(s) might have also been disconnected (or loosely fit).

I didn't go through the codes, but generally disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will cause several DTCs to appear, clear them all first then check what DTCs remain.

Found one more thing using the easy mode Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) configuration, it will change the Low Fuel warning message. It is called "DTE Level Configuration", there are two settings: Distance Based algorithm, this will show the distance to empty km/miles with the low fuel warning, and (still not confirmed by testing edit June 12: confirmed) will show fuel warning based on the distance to empty (in my older Ford/Lincoln it used to be at exactly 80 km to empty). Edit June 12: Low Fuel warning will now come at 80km, 60km, 40km, 20km then turns red at 0. or Fuel Level (Volume) Based algorithm, this will NOT show the distance to empty km/miles with the low fuel warning and the low fuel warning comes at random distances to empty, usually at very low km. This was the stock in my 2016 Edge.

The brake booster warranty should be calculated from the original warranty start date, that is the date it was sold to the first customer, not from the build date. For the EVAP leak, it might be a bad purge valve. As for the whining noise, if it only came after the dealer repairs, take it back to them.

On newer Ford models like the 2015+ Edge the power point timeout can be changed used ForScan, if you are into using it.

They should shut off. I think after about an hour & 15 minutes.

Are you sure your 2015 Edge Sport has HID? from the looks of it, it seems you have regular halogen bulbs which are standard on the Edge Sport (H11 bulbs). Link to the owners manual bulb specification chart.

Since your wife's phone works, I'd guess it is from your phone. Did your phone get some update recently? Maybe it was some app that was updated. The last suggestions I have are extreme. Hard resting the phone and/or Sync. I'd start with hard resetting Sync as it is easier compared to having to backing up & restoring your phone. Alternatively, before resetting your phone, try resetting app data on your phone for apps related to Bluetooth, phone or contacts to see if it helps

After removing Sync from your phone & your phone from sync, try restarting both (sync & your phone).

Solution was posted in this thread.

You have to keep holding the OK button until the Test/Engineering mode comes. I don't remember exactly which "Ok" button it is, so if the right button doesn't work, try the left one.

The Sport mode (S) in the transmission will hold gears more & lockout 6th.

I believe you missed your post.

I am sure you'll find someone wanting to trade. I know I would but shipping would be a nightmare because I live overseas. Might want to suggest a meet up in your post to make the trade as shipping costs would be a concern.

It is turbocharged, so it's like a small V6 engine. Most reviews I saw/read on the latest Edge 2.0 would describe it as very adequate. Note that Ford had even offered the 2.0 on the bigger & heavier Explorer in 2012-2015.

I just checked my Edge Sport after warming up. It is hard to keep the RPM at exactly 1500, I tried as close as I could and it was closer to 25 than 30 psi. It was fluctuating so I changed the range to 0-30 to get a better graph.

Some ideas thinking out loud: If the oil pressure is less than designed, why haven't you gotten a low oil pressure warning or DTC indicating the same? The service manual's Oil Pressure Test procedure calls for using a "commercially available oil pressure gauge", so maybe the readout using ForScan is not reliable to assume you actually have a low oil pressure condition. After all, ForScan is just converting a signal to psi, maybe there is mistake in ForScan. The manual has a note on the oil filter replacement: The oil filter housing stem­ to ­oil reservoir drain port seal is included with the service filter and must be replaced. If this seal or filter housing stem is damaged or missing, the oil will flow through the reservoir drain port and a loss of engine oil pressure will occur. Maybe check for oil filter if you haven't already?