enigma-2

I've used this procedure from Chris Fix, and can report excellent results. (His video on exterior glass is the best procedure I've ever found and the glass stays clean for months).

That's also the one I use. Works ok.

Procedure is on page 105 of the owners manual.

I just dicovered that the engine number is also on a production traveler that's stuffed behind the hood acoustic blanket (under the hood). On mine, it was shoved on the side on the drivers side.

Incredible.

Like Makuloco said, the car has 185,000 miles on it and their changing the water pump as a "preventive" measure. That says a lot about the subject.

No man should go through life without a Dremal. It's like, trying to fix something without duct tape or WD-40.

I let it go. The blade was misboxed in the store (probably some kid messing around) and parts guy was acting in good faith.

I could be way off, but my first guess is the accessory relay is failing. It's #10 in the fuse panel (in cabin).

Change your cabin air filter. Here's a video which shows you how to do it.

Starting point: https://www.4dtech.com/

This page has a lot of info and may help. https://www.waze.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=253285

Wouldn't adding a catch can void the factory warranty on the engine?

Take it to the dealer for diagnostics. They have to be the party that finds it anyway. If you go online to ford website, they may have a coupon for a free brake check. Won't cost anything for the check and they fix if the concur.

An extended warranty is something that you purchase from your dealer (or another dealer) to extend the warranty on your car for several years / miles. I currently have 110k in my 09 MKX and am still under powertrain extended warranty (for two more years). If you Google "ford extended warranty" and select ford warranties from actual on-line Ford dealers (not an aftermarket warranty, which are mostly garbage at rediculus prices), print them out and take to local dealer, they will match price. There are different levels you can purchase, like full coverage (like what you had when the car was new), powertrain (what I currently have), and one in between (forget what it covered). There are several different levels that you can choose from. Prices vary based on what you want covered and for how long/miles. I took "powertrain" for three years, as I want to protect against a water pump failure (new engine) and PTU failure (actually my PTU was replaced under my last extended warranty).

Ford cast a engine number in the block which describes the model and serial number. They also attach a tag to engine with this information. This link describes various locations, but may by old information. https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-a-Ford-Motor

I had same problem. Dealer changed the fans under extended warranty. He also checked a/c refrigerant levels and topped off. Said it was normal after fan failure. Fans needed to blow air across radiator at idle, not needed above 30 mpg as there's sufficient airflow.

Which engine do you have? BTW, did you check the registration document or the vin number plate?

You don't need Smartlink to run a Vehicle Health Report. All you need to do is register at SyncMyRide.com (where the report is sent to).

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I would agree with checking the cabin air filter. If it's ok, I would have the charge checked at the dealership. All systems leak very, very slowly. Some more than others. Could be just a little low. When the dealer changed my radiator fans, they also checked thd a/c charge. It was a little low, they charged and I could feel the difference. It was slight, but noticeable.

The OP noticed that the fan was speeding up and slowing down on heated seats. I was letting my car idle while the better half was in the store and became aware of the same thing, when on heated seats, the fan goes to high, then to low (or off - gets quiet) and repeats. Kind of a whoosh, quiet, whoosh, quiet, etc. On seat cool, it's on high 100% of the time.

I don't believe these work on plastic, ferrious and non-ferrious metals. The more expensive ones work with ultrasonic, not certain about the cheaper ones. The least expensive work with magnets (hence ferrious only). Edit: The $55 one I bought works on either magnetic induction (ferrous) or on eddy current's (non-ferrous). Has 1 um, mm or mil resolution and can be used over insulating coatings. The instructions state "Please allow 1-2cm error due to manual measurement". Believe something was lost in the translation, heh. Anyway, need to claibrate before each use, comes with a bare alumunim plate, bare steel plate and plastic calibrate film in 50um, 100um, 250um, 500um and 1000um thicknesses to use on plastic parts (over metal).

Just got back in the office and there was a flyer in the mail advertising a rebate on tires. If you buy 4 tires from your local Ford dealer before the end of the year, they will rebate you $70 for the tires and $60 if you out it on the Ford Credit Card. (You can allpy for the credit card right at the service desk and the really nice part, besides getting $60 back in a rebate is, they will charge you $0 interest for 9 months or a year (forget which). Anyway can pay off slowly at not interest + $60 back. Great deal. Tires limited to Goodyear, Dunlop, Michelin, Contenential, Pirelli, Hankook, Yokohama, Bridgestone and Firestone. Must show competitors ad before dealer will match price (I printed out Tirerack.com's pages andf they took ok.) So, $130 rebate, tires at competitors prices, 9 moths or a year to pay back with no interest and assuance the job will be done right the first time. Ford-Lincoln rabate.pdf

I'll let you know, bought the $55 one. (No, I don't know why I need one, I just do. Stop asking). (Rehearsing for when the wife asks ....