enigma-2

We hit a new record going to the store this morning. Low 13's (minutes) and only three potholes.

Go back and spray the door stop (strap) top & bottom with silicone spray. Usually it's crud at the guide at the door that's causing the rubbing (squeek) sound.

Anyone know where I can find a Stormy Daniels bobblehead? The bigger the better. Told the wifiepoo and she just glared at me. She wants a Chuck Conners bobblehead. (The Rifleman).

Anyone know where I can find a Stormy Daniels bobblehead? The bigger the better. Told the wifiepoo and she just glared at me. She wants a Chuck Conners bobblehead. (The Rifleman).

Check with your local Ford dealer and see if they would interested in trading sizes for one of the used ones on their lot.

Motorcraft. Nothing is better than OEM. (Except the aftermarket advertising).

It may also be a good idea to verify the the previous owner changed the plugs and fluids (especially the coolant). If you can't verify, would be best to do asap at these miles. Old plugs (change at 90k) can draw too much current to jump the wide gap and overheat to coils, burning them out $$$. Old coolant loses its protection and can go acid or goo up the heater core. I read on another forum where a dragging brake caused a awd problem. I would also imagine that a bad sensor could mess up the system. Did you check for codes?

Just to throw in my 2 cents, I have a 2009 MKX, with over 115k. I took out another extended warranty late last year. Had the option of going full coverage for two years or powertrain only for three. (Went with the powertrain as it covers everything I need, and give me three years). So yes, you can easily get a full coverage warranty if you want. Here's a tip I used. I went online and printed out three offers from online Ford dealers. Then made an appointment with local dealer's comptroller and listened to his offers. Decided on tbe 3-year powertrain warranty and then brought up the online bids. He asked to see them and immediately offered to match the lowest. I hem-hawed, and looked disinterested, so he sweetened to pot by offering a zero deductible (if I have all my work done in his garage. $100 deductible at any other Ford dealership). Follow up with what WWWPerf said about online dealers selling Canadian warranties. Then see if your local will match (they should, doesn't matter who sells the warranty and any Ford garage will honor). Then when he agrees to match, sit there with a goofy grin on your face and stare blindly into his eyes, as if expecting him to add more. If he still doesn't get the message, blink several times. If he still doesn't budge, add "just match"?

I was responding to Jeff13edge and his car with 117k miles. I see you have a 2013 but don't know your km. Besides considering fluids, it's most important to change the plugs at 90k miles (guess that's about 144km).

Yup. Standard on the 2021 Edge with the 0.4L flathead upgrade. Also heard that Ford was experimenting with plastic catolitic converters as well. Have to change them at every oil change though.

I was thinking of a static chip like in a key FOB to start the car. No battery needed.

...... you do an oil change every 30,000 miles?. ......Why so often? (G)

True enough. But the new ECO engines have plastic drain plugs.

Theory: https://youtu.be/j-Wf4lRhILc Conclusion: https://youtu.be/WcMBbop_11k Can buy the Neodymium magnets to trap steel particles here: https://goo.gl/images/QWym5p and the aluminum magnets here: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/387573/Office-Depot-Brand-Jumbo-Aluminum-Magnets/ (chuckle)

Give you my thoughts. The best design was created by the Ford engineers when they designed the car.

Doubt electronics in a wallet would work for long, flexing would break the micro connections in short order. Better idea might be to have a chip embedded under the skin that the car recognizes as you approach.

Ford states there's no maintenance for the life of the car (which is the life of the warranty). The exception is if the car had been in water. The concensus in the forum is to change the lubricant every 30,000 miles. (My dealer told me this as well). Problem is, most dealers don't have a Ford procedure for changing the fluid and will tell you they can't /won't do it. My dealer's service rep told me this, I asked to speak with the technician and he said that it was a good idea and they will suck out the old fluid using the machine used to suck out the differential fluid. If I remember they charged $80. Couple of other points, change the coolant at 30k (important) and plugs at 100k (max-critical). I also had the dealer change my brake fluid.

In comparison to the seats in my 09 MKX, I also noticed the seats in the loaner Edge are a lot more narrow. I assume this is because the center consul is higher in the current gen Edges than on my gen 1 MKX. (An inch or two makes a lot of difference).

When the check engine light is flashing, it means the engine is misfiring and the engine or catalytic converter can be permanently damaged from overheating. You can drive under such situations, but drive very slowly. You need to see your dealer as soon as possible as it could be dangerous. (It should set a code or codes).

Could consider a vented seat cousion, several varieties. Thus on is made from wood:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182IAVEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GpYMAb0E6RZB6, but there are other designs available. I looked at my service manual and can't tell if the cousion form is metal or plastic. Doesn't matter though, the side bolsters are completely made from molded foam, meaning would not be that difficult to reshape the foam. Only real problem is reshaping the leather cover (held on by velcro). One thing I learned that was surprising was, there are two TED's uses, one for the seat and one for the seatback. Wonder if were possible (practical) to wire in switch to turn off the seat bottom and just heat the seatback? Bottom gets so hot it burns the fellas.

If you could get your hands on a 2017 service manual, you would be able to see the interior construction. I would seriously doubt that you would be able to bend the steel structure of the seat. Under the FMVSS, seats and seat restraint systems must be able to withstand 8x the standard adult weight. Forget what the exact weight is, but assuming 150 lbs, that means the seat must support a minimum of 1200 lbs. Have you considered adding a seat "topper" to build up the center poration of the seat; to make it more level, minimizing the effects of the side bolsters. I would start by experimenting with pieces of foam to determine both the depth and shape needed.

Was this on your 2017? Which engine?

The root cause of the problem is the airbags that use ammonium nitrate-based propellent, without a chemical drying agent. (Simular to the little bag of desiccant you see stuffed into prescription bottles and the like. Takata took the low road to save a penny on each airbag). Environmental moisture, high temperatures and age can deteriorate the charge, causing the airbags to improperly inflate and even send shrapnel into the occupant due to a more violent explosion.

Kenwood is $50 cheaper too. Either one is excellent.

Totaled. That does suck. How bad did you say you snapped your neck when she hit you? Texting was she? The 19's are almost out, good deals on 18's.