enigma-2

Ok, it turns out that the weatherstrip on the inside has TWO wiper strips. One person reported that he found that the inner wiper strip had folded DOWN and he used a q-tip (think that's what he said) to reach in and force the strip back up to the UP position. A second person in a BMW pulled off the inner door skin and then pulled the inner wiper and trimmed the lower wiper with a razor blade. See video below.

Yup. Something inside the door is getting wet on the interior side. Never noticed this on any car I've owned. Porous glass ☔

Both are still available. The FS-104 has a filter, the FS-106 has the guard. Either will work.

Its a round part about 3" in diameter. It's located under the seat, slightly forward of center. Somewhat difficult to get off, they just press on. The old ones (like on my MKX) have a thin filter element, the new one just have a plastic grill. I doubt the you will see any difference between the two. The filter material is very thin and offers little obstruction to air flow. I've used both and the filter type offers a slight advantage as it filters dust/dirt from entering the fan motor. But in all honesty there's very little dirt under the seat to get sucked up anyway. I suppose it may have a slight advantage when considered over several years.

The seats with heat only have just a heating element. With air conditioned seats, like JMR061 said, the current flows on way through the TED and the seat heats, the opposite way and it cools. The difference between them, in the heating mode the fan only comes on low, in cooling mode is depends on which of thr three levels you set the control.

Possibly a dirty mass air flow sensor. It only takes a small amount of oil grime buildup on the thin heated wire to throw off the air/fuel balance and lower mpg. https://carcarenewsservice.org/article/clean-mass-air-flow-sensor-restores-lost-mpg-and-horsepower

Would it be possible that the outside bottom wipe gets wet and then touches the inside wipe when the window is all the way down (transferring wet from the outside weatherstripping to the inside). Check to see if the touch when the window is all the way down. (My MKX doesn't).

I would also consider laying a couple of mousetraps around the car.

Don't know what year you have, on mine, I used a small, straight screwdriver and removed the two screws on each end. On mine, on fixture had came apart inside, completely (water appears to have gotten in through cracked lens) and I replaced the fixture and bulb. This video shows a later style.

Remove both C-pillar upper trim panels. Refer to WSM, Section 50-505. Remove both rear grab handles. Starting from the rear of the vehicle release the pushpins and magnets from the liftgate opening to the grab handle mounting location, to allow access to the antenna. Replace the audio unit antenna. Remove the retainer and audio unit antenna and harness through the roof opening. (Figure 1) retainer and audio unit antenna and harness Figure 1 15-0136 The new audio unit antenna must be painted to the vehicle color before installing. Tighten the bolt to 7 Nm (62 lb-in.). To install, reverse the removal procedure.

If you follow the reference above, it really does seem that exhaust noise 'is' being piped in under hard acceleration. The author in the other forum clearly stated that disconnecting the module made his car quieter. About the only way one could verify that the same "enhancement" exists in the Edge Sport is to disconnect the same two wires and listen.

Gotta remember to change the air in my tires. Still running on summer air.

This is what the warranty says: Damage Caused by Alteration or Modification The New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover any damage caused by: alterations or modifications of the vehicle, including the body, chassis, electronics or their components, after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company tampering with the vehicle, tampering with the emissions systems or with the other parts that affect these systems (for example, but not limited to exhaust and intake systems) the installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part or software (other than a certified emissions part or software) or any part or software (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance chips.

This may help You can find a complete replacment, or just the innards and glass on Ebay.

So I suppose posting a video on how to change your muffler bearings would also be controversial? (Geeze, works for Trump..)

Have you gotten her yet?

Doesn't appear to be anything on YouTube, except one for a 2011 rear drivers door. Problem is, he didn't replace the switch, just cut and grounded to wire (simulating a closed door). Appears to work but the dome light will never turn on when you open just that door.

Haven't used this, is it like Scotch Guard,

Nice. Like to pillow, nice match.

All other things considered, the first item do you burnish the brakes after you change them? Breaking them in properly is important to getting good life. The second item is HOW you drive. Rotors that exhibit pulsating (aka warped) are almost always caused by excessive heat. Multiple high speed stops not allowing the brakes to cool between each use, lots of downhill driving where your forced to ride the brakes, each of these can cause to rotors to "warp". Does anything in your driving style correspond to any of these conditions? .

Like Mikula said, I've also found that these incidious lights get my attention, even if I'm looking somewhere else. They do grab your attention but it's ALWAYS annoying. Art is right, if your looking down you won't see the flashing, but your not supposed to be looking at your cell phone when there are other cars around. Right?

How old is your battery? Weak battery can cause all kinds of electrical problems as so much of the car is controlled by computers.

303 is widely regarded as a an excellent protectant. Good for wiper blades, belts (I spray it on belts while the car is running), and door weatherstripping. The fellow in the video has many other youtube videos, seems creditable. Keep in mind on all of this, that the key is in using it every three months. I haven't tried it on my tires yet, just too lazy. Lot of work. But keeping elastomeric and flexible plastics supple will make them last longer. Its simple, dried out rubber wears faster. In all honesty, it's silly to claim that it will never work just because you never tried it. It does seems extreme, but the guy has a known business reputation to maintain, and would be a fool to go on youtube and lie. Try not to be so closed minded in all of this, ok to quesion but to call me a "troll". As far as ArmorAll, ArmorAll Extreme Tire Shine Gel is absolutely the best product to make a tire sidewall shine. But you would never use it on the tread. (Well, most of us wouldn't). 303 works differently. Again, every 3 months.

Try laying just under the side of the car and push up on the each of the panels. Probably one is loose.

I doubt the current draw is any worst than a radar detector. I'm powering my Escort MAX2 off the mirror. Should work fine.