enigma-2

Not really a biggie, but one other goodie is, at the dealer I get treated better and a free car wash after every service call. Also offered a loaner whenever they need to keep the car all day or over overnight. (Local dealer both is a Ford and Lincoln dealer).

My 09 does NOT have a glove box light. Had plans once of using a Reed switch (activates in proximity of a magnet) glued inside tge back of the instrument panel and glueing a magnet inside the g-box door (opening the door halves ((they separate by unscrewing)) and glueing a magnet on the inside, left side. Completely hidden when box door is open.) For the lights, i was hoing to run a short strip of LEDS over the area above the box to illuminate the entire box when open. Was looking for warm-white as I hate the cold feeling of white-white. Also wanted low output LEDs - most everything anymore is the super bright stuff. Nice thing about this setup is, no mechanical switch to malfunction, no plunger sticking out and full illumination of the contents of the box.

Ebay, do a search for "ford edge 20"wheels". Should get plenty of hits.

I know I had trouble when I tried to program following the Lincoln manual. Turned out its because of the security features in my Chamberlain opener. What I ended up doing is pressing the "learn" button on the opener, then press and hold the button on my visor for fifteen seconds or so. One point is not to be parked inside the garage when programming.

I just switched over to Philips X-tremeVision. Very satisfied with the change. This is the best you can do with OEM Halagen projectors.

What engine mods, FWD or RWD, tire size, stripped or stock, octane of gas, SE, SEL, Titanium, Sport ?

Also, it's more than cosmetic. There's differences throughout. Mine 09 has stone and dark wood interior and platinum white exterior. When anyone asks what I like about the car, I usually respond by saying "It's' a Lincoln". Then look at them like their stupid or something.

Was reading the Mobile 1 warranty. There's plenty of wiggle room on their part. That ARE stating (in so many words) that you must also use the Mobile 1 filter on the same 20k/one year interval. Think of it, one trip through the desert or other really dusty place such as driving on unpaved roads (we still have dirt roads here in Indiana) and your oil gets dirty. It's the filter that takes the dirt out, and when it's full, it starts to bypass the filter, allowing dirty oil to continue to circulate, scoring the bearings and other high tolerance parts, like the rings.

I read years ago that taxi cab companies in New York don't change their oil on regular intervals, rather they sample the oil weekly and change when it got too dirty or acidic. While the oil may now be engineered to go 20k or 1 year, I would be nervous about not changing the filter evey three to six months. And I agree with akirby, if your manual states every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, that's what you need to hold to for warranty purposes. There's a strong history of auto manufacturers denying warranty service based on not maintaining oil change intervals. (Chrysler comes to mind after to 08 crash. Even with good records at a dealer they were rejecting claims of blown engines, based on every little thing). I haven't read the warranty on the MobIle-1 product, but they usually are written in such a manner that you need to keep super records and be able to prove beyond any doubt that you followed the requirements precisely.

Agree, and that's what the manual states as well. But the OP reported that if was over by a quart after he added 6 qts and by the next morning, was way high on the dipstick. That can be dangerous for the engine. For me (and I no longer do my own oil changes) I found that it usually reads a little low after an oil change but became normal after driving a while. Rather than driving on an overfilled engine, I believe I would either drain out what was necessary to show a full reading or just change the oil again, making certain that I got a full drain (and start from scratch). If you drain out too much, can always add back what's necessary as it's new oil.

They do look nice. What are planning on carrying on them? I've got an 09 and had kicked this around once or twice. Never really could justify the cost vs. need.

This was discussed here before. Look throught this thread and see if your question is answered. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17202-line-out-converter-s/

You didn't specifically state, did you change the filter? Some filters can hold a quart and the add recommendation, is based on a dry filter. BTW, don't drive any car that's overfilled with oil. Can burn out the engine (crank hits the oil, causes it to splash and foam, allows oil pick up to pull in foam = air).

Probably your local Ford dealer, Autozone, Advanced Auto, uxcell 30pcs 10mm Hole Plastic Panel Trim Clips Auto Car Rivets Fastener Retainer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LDJ12MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5cy7ybB0GYWE4

Years ago I had a non-Ford warranty. It was a pain for the dealer. THEY haD to get everything approved before hand, each part. They would honor one thing if it broke in one way, but not if it broke in another. Dealer had to negotiate every repair and worried about getting paid. Seemed like they felt that nothing was their responsibility. Never again. I'll pay extra so I know exactly what I'm covered on.

Might I suggest you resist the urge. They're not needed and all they do is blind the oncoming drive.

Replaced all four headlight bulbs in my MKX this evening. Used Philips X-tremeVision bulbs. Last time I did this, it took an hour. Today I backed the car outside (better lighting) and it too less than 10 minutes. (Still is a bitch though). One bulb has around 2" clearance, barely can get my hand I'm the socket.

If your insurance company is willing to pay for glass without sound deadening, talk to Safelite and tell them you will pay the extra. But first I would see if the insurance company woukd be willing to pay for OEM spec.

All moving parts (especially horizontal sliding parts exposed to rain, dirt and road grime) need lubricating. MactFordEdge has an excellent YouTube video on lubing the BAMR. I use Super Lube (contains PTFE) on mine, every four to six months. Takes only minutes, less time than it took you to enter your post. I just lubed mine, opening slow after the winter. Found a bit of gunk in the passenger rails. Start to finish, including time to open and get a small step ladder, took less than five minutes. Works great now. If your in a hurry, you can use spray silicone. Won't last as long, but it does work and it's a fast way to get the job done.

As this area is well above the weatherstripping, I doubt adding additional weatherstripping would help. It almost looks like the door is forming a low pressure center in the area of the drain. As an expirment, I would be tempted to clean the door and then apply tape over the drain area, just to see it anything changes; as far as any new accumulation. If it does, changing the size or shape of the drain may be the answer.

Try running a test on the climate control module. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15071-climate-control-problem/

Repair pal / estimates (however o did them on a MKX. http://repairpal.com/estimator/lincoln/mkx/maintenance-schedule

? really nice touch. Very distinctive, unique. Makes me want to put on a set of whitewalls on my Platinum White MKX. lol

Does your temp gauge read in the normal zone?