enigma-2

If you were to set it to "S" mode but drive in "D" mode, wouldn't this be the same as being off?

One of the doors is open (or more likely, the door switch is sticking, making the car "think" the door is open). Safety feature, car won't start if it thinks the car is not locked This is a known problem, the fix has been discussed widely here in the forums. Involves spraying electrical contact cleaner onto the plastic arm to clear out the crap causing it to stick. Some reported it works, some couldn't get it to work. There are also YouTube videos showing how to fix. 1-Chirp: start signal received. 2-Chirps: Brake is being pressed or the hood is open. 3-Chirps: One of the vehicles doors are open. 4-Chirps: Tachometer not programmed - see dealer. 5-Chirps: The key is in the ignition. 6-Chirps: The Remote Start System is in "SERVICE/VALET" mode.

Press the "menu" button until "rbds" is displayed. Use the up or down arrows to toggle between on/off. Turn on and you should see the station info. To toggle between the station name and category, toggle "text" button. I pulled this from page 33 of the owners manual.

It's not unusual for dealerships to use high school kids for oil changes. Local told me they use them on some sort apprentice program as so few high school grads are willing to become auto mechanics.

Orrrrrrrrrrr, turn your Optimus Prime mode on your Android and prepare to battle the evil Decepticon iPhone throughout the universe.

Sitting on the patio drinking golden mararitias, eating cashews, enjoying talking with my wife over nothing, warm breeze blowing gently and not a care in the world. I lift my glass to all and wish you the same.

All else considered, tires rated for low rolling resistance will deliver better mpg.

I doubt that these are something you could consider, but maybe something like these would help. http://www.beddinginn.com/product/Super-Warm-And-Comfortable-Patch-Short-Plush-Material-Car-Seat-Cover-11052914.html?c=USD&gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8Fd3jFGbnIcJ1wivhgsKQg1amoEiQsfFXAE29a6u5v5RoCJd_w_wcB

Two different types of products. If you look at the Material Safety Data Sheet for SeaFoam, it lists three ingredients: pale oil (mildly hydrotreated paraffinic oil), naptha (hexane) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). It consists only of solvents - not chemicals with active components like the Techron product. SeaFoam will disolve gum if it's left to sit for a period. Its also good to prevent Ethanol from separating out of gas that sits for more than 30 days. If your looking to clean injectors, valves and the like, use Techron. Recommended by all automobile manufactures.

Have a look at these http://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/521/c3625-ford-edge-escape-explorer-fusion-oem-center-cap-5l241a096aa.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8FTa_A1gUN4gA_xGxBQSqBsaqw4BZOXA7pkppi8KiEzBoCdWvw_wcB

Makes sense. Looked like LEDs but probably were bulbs. Thanks.

They appeared to be OEM. The lights were uneven, left were lit on top (and outboard side), right were lit on bottom (and outboard side).

Was driving up to another city this afternoon to pickup the wife's convertible after having a new rear window installed, and was behind a newer (2014, 2015) Edge. Strangest brake lights I've ever seen. The one on the left (drivers) only the top and outside (like an inverted "L") LED's were lit. On the right side, only the lower and outside LEDS (like a reversed "L") were lit. Followed him for several blocks and every time he stepped on the brakes I was befundled as to what was going on. Anyway, exactly what are the brake lights supposed to look like? Was one light wired wrong internally, both, neither? (He never used his turn signals [perhaps they were not working] so I can't say as to what they looked like, nor were his tail lights on). .

Hi ErlAlx. Bet your getting anxious eh? What color did you pick and what options come with it?

Explorer is out. Might get a clue from looking at it. http://www.fleet.ford.com/edms/order-guides/?geography=NATL&brand=Ford&model=Explorer

My two cents. First make certain you have the latest operating system, curent one was released on June 27, 2026. Check you have latest release of Sync. Update if not and try again. Next I would go to settings, Advanced Calling, Activate WiFi Calling and make certain it's turned "off". Also turn off your WiFi service on the phone and have someone call you in the car. Lastly try a reload. Remove all bluetooth connections on the phone, then turn off and remove the phone battery for a few minutes. Remove your phone from Sync. Turn off the car, open the door, close door and then pair the cell phone. Have someone call.

Audi is not without's faults. Big ones too. Best way is to read through a forum with a "what's wrong with Audi" topic. http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/index.php?threads/104715/

Check your fuses.

Was sitting at my local barbershop and Republican headquarters, waiting my turn and reading the current copy of Consumer's Reports annual edition. Looked up used cars and all were tated high, exceot for the 2012 & 2013 Edge & 2012 MKX; which were rated as problem cars. Most other years were rated above average! What is surprising is how BADLY rated were expensive cars like the BMW's. Beamers of all years are full of problems. Real eye opener.

"bearings may be damaged". This happened to my daughter's car (blew a head gasket and coolant leaked into the oil). The oil was a gray color and contained water but we just replaced the head gasket and she drove it for two more years until we sold it. $2000 to replace a water pump, sounds high. Do they have to pull the engine out and tear it completely down to replace? I had a water pump replaced on the wife's Sebring Convertible and it cost little over $600. (And that was at the local Chrysler dealer who's known to scalp labor charges). I believe I would talk with a local mechanic and ask his opinion.

Would something like this work? (Could use it in more than one car if needed). http://www.carid.com/sparco/ergo-series-seat-insert-black-mpn-01047kit872nr3l.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwt-G8BRDktsvwpPTn1PkBEiQA-MRsBSKYlIRbE54G3E6DuEoDDdZmIU29djWwTVNSmqEtce4aAgpP8P8HAQ Something else comes to mind, not the most stylish, but it might work.... what if you took a large towel and rolled it up, run a long bungee cord through it and positioned it to add padded support onto the front of the seat (bungee cord wraps around seat bottom, connects at back of seat).

You mean like these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_0_7?k=oil+drain+pan&sprefix=oil+dra

If you use Ethanol gas (and most stations in this area have Ethanol in their gas), then it's no secret that Ethanol breaks down fairly quickly. In as little as 30 days in hot, humid weather. The alcohol starts to separate out and draw water vapor from the air into the gas. As the purified alcohol is burned in an engine, it burns faster than gas, and the cylinder head temperature goes up. In-fact, in small, air cooled equipment such as trimmers, chain saws, and the like, it can melt cylinder heads and burn holes in pistons. (In small engines, if you use Ethanol gas, you should only use mid-grade or premium as the extra octane will slow the burn of Ethanol and perhaps save an engine from failure). Ethanol Defense (and another product I've used longer, Sea Foam) will prevent the Ethanol from separating out. Doesn't take much, 1 oz per 10 gallons. (1 oz per 5 gallons if you intend to keep the gas for more than 30 days and up to a year). Bottle is marked to make it easier to measure. I usually put it in an empty 5 gal gas container and then take it to the station to get gas. (Don't use it in the car or add it to lawn mower, etc. That's too late as the gas may have already have started to break diwn. None of this stuff works on gas that's already started to break down). Haven't used it in the last year or so. I decided to find a local station that sells pure gas (no Ethanol). Hers a website that lists stations that sell gas without Ethanol: http://www.pure-gas.org/ If you have been using Ethanol gas and are now having problems with a lawn mower or gas trimmer, snow blower or whatever, try adding either Ethanol Shield or Sea Foam directly to your engine tank, run the equipment to get it in the carb, then shut it off and let it set. The stuff will disolve the gum and open the Jets (usually, sometimes you have to take it apart and throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner). I had to let a snowblower sit for a week before it cleared the jets. (That was with Sea Foam). If you live in an area that gets below freezing and are using gas with Ethanol, the gas in your cars tank probably has water on it. (Ethanol draws water to itself). Best to pour in a can of Heat at the start of winter to bring the water to the same specific gravity and burn it up in the engine. And in all cases, use with Ethanol Shield or Sea Foam if you use Ethanol gas (if there's any chance you are going to keep gas around for the lawn mowe or the like. Good for 2 cycle or 4 cycle.

Thanks, I use this product.

This may be unrelated, but has anyone here ever hooked up the USB-2 port on their Edge or MKX?