enigma-2

Probably shop needs to test the CCA rating and determine that the rating, when fully charged, is less than 50% in order to provide warranty exchange. (Service rep is probably just testing voltage).

MOA is an oil treatment that prevents engine oil degradation (extends oil changes). Fuel injectors are recommended to be cleaned at 30k mile intervals, so you were not too bad off. (Most of the time if your using tier one gasoline, you can go longer). When cleaning the inside of your car and leaving the doors open, why not just open all the windows instead. Still get sufficient air exchange (think of moisture as a pressure). Most dealers only test batterys for voltage. Even weak batteries test 12.5 volts. But if the "capacity" is low, that 12 volts can drop to 9 volts in a few seconds. To be certain your battety is still good, you have to test the CCA reserve. A battery can start off at 650 CCA's, test good at 12.6 volts but only have a reserve of 200 CCA's. As soon as you start to crank, the reserve is used up and your doa.

When the car is running and heated up, hold the top radiator hose. If its not hot, suspect the water pump.

Light removal is simple. https://paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-Rear-Cargo-Area-Light-Bulb-Replacement-Guide/index.html But you'll probably have to pull the inner cargo panel to access enough wire to tap into.

One other possibility is to install a cargo light from another model, that already has a switch. Here's one example, I would imagine there are many others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Compatible-with-2015-2020-Ford-F-150-250-F-350-Bed-Cargo-Lamp-Light-Switch-/324886349853?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

No, when the tailgate is open, the light is on. People have been complaining about this since 2008. There are two work arounds. 1. Wire in a switch to disconnect the light. 2. Shove an ink pen or screwdriver into the latch mechanism and pop it closed. (It thinks it's closed and the light goes out.) But, you MUST trigger the latch open again before actually closing the tailgate, or it will not latch and reopen.

A very good charger are the chargers from CTEC. They can bring a battety back when others can't. Start with a desulfate phase, and walk the battey through 8 stages. Fully rain and snow proof, it also has a cold weather mode that raises the charge voltage up to 14.5 volts. Shortens charging times). One additional feature for cars that are charged frequently, you can attach an optional, semi-permanent assembly to your battery, then just plug the charger into this harness. (Can charge with hood closed). This is the one I have, now replaced with a newer model. I've had excellent results in recovering old batteries it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GES7J8RTDJ871KBCQR8E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You normally connect the negative lead to engine ground, instead of battety ground, because the battery discharges hydrogen gas. When making a connection, it's common for less expensive chargers to spark, possibly igniting the flammable gas. (It's more critical when jumping from another car, but still a possibility from a charger).

It's my understanding that in Sync 1, you can select several different display languages, but the system only recognizes English, French and Spanish spoken to it. (I may be mistaken as I've never played with this "feature").Believe they expanded the language packs in Sync 2. Seems to OP edited his question, I think this is what he was talking about.

Word of caution, when I had mine done in October, they could only find three Motorcraft in stock in the eastern part of the country (all at dealers, none in supply chain). Got mine from a dealer in Louisville area.

What color of coolant is in the car?

Deleted original post. Passed over where you replaced the purge valve (usual cause). Possible vacuum hose leak?

When the PTU runs low it makes a growling sound. But its what I'd suspect as I had this happen to me. As for the tires, Tirerack.com tested the tires and complained about a low rumble sound. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=215

20" are definitely harder riding than the 19"'s. But, the 20" wheels are definitely cooler. ? I'm running Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II, & very satisfied with them. Smooth and quiet.

Believe it's 2,000 for the 2015 Sport, if it has 20" wheels AND the 2.7 engine. 3,500 lbs if equipped with the 3.5. (Note #4). https://letstowthat.com/ford-edge-towing-capacity/

Gas smell could be a leak. On mine, it was a vacuum line on the back side of the engine. Ford garage had to pull the manifold to reach. Try pulling codes to isolate location. The button to turn off the heated seats can be found on page 151 of the owners manual. Located on the hvac panel, looks like a little seat with two small lights above. Push the control located on the climate control system panel once to activate high heat, twice to activate low heat, third to turn off. The indicator light on the control will illuminate when activated. For low heat, one light will be lit; for high heat, both lights will be lit.

Sounds like you're looking for a universal mount. Would something like a Ringo work? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/go-rhino-rc3-rc4-20-led-light-bar-751020/_/R-BBSP-751020 Remember that roof mount light bars must be covered in most states if operated on public highways.

There are youtube videos that cover this. Dupli-color sells a ceramic, high temp kit specifically for this purpose. $30. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dupli-color/paint---body-repair/paint/brake-caliper-paint/1ccbe6f22328/dupli-color-8-ounce-red-brake-caliper-spray-paint-kit/dpl0/bcp400/v/a/24000/automotive-suv-2007-ford-edge?pos=3

I would recommend silicone lube rather than WD40. WD40 attracts dirt and dust and may eventually cause more problems than it solves. Additionally it's formulated with naphtha and can melt certain types of plastic. (The interior of the mirror is plastic parts. I have no idea if it would affect anything on the mirror, but pretty certain silicone wouldn't).

I was mistaken about being backwards compatible. I was thinking about the cables and not the ports. Ran into this a few years back. Cable worked fine in one USB port, but not the one next to it. But the port worked when I plugged a jump drive into it. Had a hell of a time figuring it out until I "read the manual" (grunt, grunt, grunt) and discovered it was a 3.1 port. Not marked. (Think there's a couple of other glitches. I have a 3.0 jump drive that refuses to work in a 2.x port). But doesn't matter anyway, I usually leave some older USB 2 drives plugged in and they lower the speed to the slowest drive plugged in. As for the USB A, B or C configurations, they are referring to to the connector pin configuration, not speed or current output (as far as I understand it.) For example, a USB 3.1 port can be a C (most common nowadays) or an A (or B). FWIT, I just use a 12 volt power adapter that came with my Samsung phone. Much faster than USB or wireless. Plus I can leave my phone plugged in and concealed inside the console when I leave the car. (Phone continues to charge. My power points stay on when the car is off. USB doesn't). As far as how much current your Ford USB ports are putting out, I read in the F150 forum that Ford used USB 2.0 in gen 2 (500 ma). One guy measured his ports and got 450 ma. (He also reported 650 ma on his front 12 v power point and 850 ma on his rear power point.) With Sync 3, Ford included a "Smart Charging" port that can supply "up to 2 amps," depending on the device attached. For example, one tablet may charge at 2 amps max and another at 1.6 amps max. Your phone in the same port may only charge at 500 ma (or whatever the engineers desiged it to smart charge at). So its the device, not the port that determines the max current permitted. The 2 amp limit is really designed for laptops and tablets, and not cell phones (which would probably get too hot and fry the phone). I read here in this forum that the ports boost the voltage from 5 volts up to 12 volts the increase the current to 2.0 amps. Found it here: If you have two smart charging ports and two devices plugged in at the same time, the system will deliver whatever is needed to both ports st tbe same time. For example, 2 amps to the one smart port supplying a tablet, 1.6 amps to another smart port supplying a different tablet and 500 ma to a third smart port charging a cell phone ( even though the port is capable of delivering 2 amps of current max).

Check fuses #6 & #27. You may have inadvertently grounded a circuit during installation.

Everything dead is clear that either its the battery itself or the connection from the battery into the car. (Even off the battery is supplying current to many circuits, such as interior lights). Next time it happens, open the hood and initiate impact engineering on the battery. There's always the slight possibility that one of the plates cracked or a broken connection between the plate pile and cable connectors. Rare but not unheard of. Are the battery cable connections tight? At both ends? Everything dead. Use a VOM or test light, one terminal on + and the other on the starter connection. If power is getting to the starter, check to see if power is getting to the power distribution (fuse box). Also check that the top layer of the fuse box is seated properly over the second layer. Page 272 of the owners manual.

The VOM complies with USB 2.0. Is Ford using 2.0 or 3.0/3.1? (Could be wrong, but I thought that you couldn't use a USB 2 device in a USB 3 port).

I remember that USB 2.0 ports had a specification of 0.5 amps (500 ma). But this was increased with USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports to 0.9 amps (900 ma). The 3.1 specification "can" use the "C" connector, but it could also use the other specification connectors (such as "A" or "B" style connectors). I assume that Ford adopted the industry standard, but I never seen anything to verify that. Unless you read anything different, assume 4.5 watts max.

Check to see if its turned off in the menu. Believe it's called "keyfree", but I'm not certain it was available on your model. (Vehicle settings menu). (You don't have one of the "sleeper" key fobs that turn off after 40 seconds, do you)?