todd92

It's not going to hurt anything. It's solely for appearance. There is no performance reason to stagger tires on a FWD biased AWD vehicle with a large front weight bias. To each his own.

Any oil that meets ILSAC GF-6 is the 'best' oil for a DI engine. Change it when the IOLM tells you to, more often if you don't understand synthetic oil.

Auto manufacturers can't make this type of intake stock because of noise.

The stock intake is a CAI. I do not understand why people call aftermarket intakes CAI's. More correctly called low restriction intakes. Done right they definitely add power at higher RPM's and throttle response and faster turbo spool up at lower RPM's aFe knows how to make good intakes, I've had 2. This one looks good.

The Edge is FWD biased so I guess front if just one.

Both or neither. Just one will mess up the AWD.

Ouch, so glad I picked up a 2020. No more cold weather package. Heated steering wheel requires 401A.

'conventional wisdom'??? LOL

No additive can help keep the back of the intake valves clean in a direct injected engine.

They only replace what they drain. The system holds 11.7 quarts. Sounds about right that 8 quarts would have been drained (it's difficult to drain the engine block and heater core). So 4 quarts of concentrate and 4 quarts of water go back in. This is typically done once. The objective is to replenish the corrosion inhibitors, not to drain every drop of old out. Replacing 2/3 is fine. Some people go for a vacuum flush and fill, at a substantially higher cost. It appeals to some, but is not necessary. As for using distilled water, yes it is preferred, but not required. I am not sure what 'wrong' antifreeze they used, but I doubt a Ford dealer has any 'wrong' antifreeze on hand.

There is ample corrosion inhibitors in any antifreeze to prevent corrosion when diluted. Antifreeze does two things, it is a corrosion inhibitor and it raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the coolant. However, antifreeze is lousy at heat transfer, water is much better. Hence the 50/50 target mixture, which provides ample corrosion protection, raises the boiling point and lowers the freeze point more than enough and still provides efficient heat transfer. The water is not 'filler'.

2 houses, one is a farm, we fly back and forth. The Mustang is my daughters. The Edges are my wife's. The F-150's are mine. I also have a 2005 BMW 330i and a 2019 BMW 330iX. Those are still my favorites. Nothing drives like a 3 series.

1982 Escort SW 2010 Mustang GT 2015 Lincoln MKC 2015 F-150 * 2017 F-150 * 2018 Edge 2019 Edge * 2019 Mustang GT * 2020 Edge ST * * Still own

No need to 'upgrade' to a $30 filter.

Why not cheap aluminum wheels? Can be had for $100 or so each from Discount Tire or Tire Rack, will come with the snow tires mounted and balanced.

I'm still getting 6-8 years out of my car batteries. No consensus here on 2-3 years. I do put them on a desulphating charger a couple of times a year. 2005 BMW is on it's 3rd battery. 2015 F-150 and 2016 CX-5 both still OEM.

Oakville plant was/is not closed due to Covid, my 2020 was built 2 weeks ago.

Job 1 for the 2021 Edge has always been listed for Jan 25, 2021. So obviously no dealer has one yet. The 1st ones will start trickling into dealers in early Feb. It should be possible to order one by now, ask your dealer. We went for a 2020 as the incentives are big and the Tesla style screen was a non-starter for my wife.

That would have to be for a diesel variant in Europe. No gasoline engine vehicle has a fuel/water separator, but all diesel engine ones do.

The leaking oil pan has nothing to do with your transmission woes. It's a known issue on the 2.7. My 2015 F-150 oil pan leaked and was fixed correctly on the 1st dealer visit and has never leaked since. The fix is totally dependent on the tech getting the mating surfaces 100% clean and oil free before resealing. I've read of other F-150 owners who've had the repair done unsuccessfully multiple times. The press in gasket on the later 2.7's eliminates the assembly line/service bay variability.

No, the engine is not air cooled, nor designed with air cooling as a consideration. Airflow around the engine will draw off minimal heat. Minimal, not zero. I never said zero.

Thermostat open means liquid flowing through the radiator which has an order of magnitude greater coefficient of heat transfer than shutter open air flowing through the engine compartment. Plus radiator is highly efficient at heat transfer, because that's what it is designed to do, while air flowing around parts of the engine block exterior would be highly inefficient.

That flies in the face of everything I know about fluid mechanics and heat transfer, but whatever. If the first case has a relative value of 1, I would guess 2 for 2 and 10 for 3.

What do you suppose the warm-up times would be in these 3 scenarios? Thermostat closed, shutters closed Thermostat closed, shutters open Thermostat open, shutters closed

My tuned cars get the same or better MPG for the same driving. Dipping into the boost is another story.