Cerberus

ahh.. the time honored ways to clean out an engine.. My father used Marvel Mystery oil on everything.. before Cats.. even seized up motors and the classic, "Italian Tune up".. pull the trans down to 2nd and beat the snot out of it lol Anybody else ever dump (carefully administer) a bottle of water down the intake of a hot engine while hand modulating the throttle? it definitely worked for cleaning up chambers and reducing ping This was my go-to trick when the Italian tune up didn't do enough. lol

regarding concern for the turbo(s) there are a few things you can do to minimize the risk of premature failure. Never beat on it cold, use the best fully synthetic spec oil (to avoid coking and maximize lubrication film strength), And utilize safe 'run down' practices.. Particularly if you live somewhere hot.. One more thought, that I'm sure will get push back from some, is to add a lower temperature thermostat.

if yours has remote start, set it to the lowest time (5 min usually) and just use that as a cool down run. Thats how i let it cool down when i've been high tailing it to work, and need to go hit the clock.

there are basically two likely causes for the auto start stop to not work. either it was disabled or there is an issue with the battery / BMS / or alternator (or belt) supposedly the BMS will self reset with a new battery installation, but apparently not always. The charging system warning was what i was seeing on my console when i shut off the vehicle. instead of leaving systems on for several minutes after shut down, all system shut down immediately with engine shut down What I did not yet know was my alternator (actually the pulley clutch on the alternator) was shot There are tools and software that allow me to monitor alternator output voltage and current, which will tell you if it is able to produce the power. I check the data periodically now

behind the engine, about in line with the firewall, on the central line

these noises sound like they could be driveline lash going from one state to the other. loaded to unloaded or the other way around, like from a down shift/upshift that could be caused by the engagement or disengagement of the rear drive. just a guess

did the color of the splatter change when the oil was changed? nothing about this makes sense. No drips.. but a splatter on the ground. I'd suspect someone is screwing with you.

my idea to hold on to it was predicated on a couple considerations, like having a $400 alternator($800 according to the dealer) capable of 14v@200A for random generation purposes.. Also, according to the core return policy, the core needed to be returned in the original box, and the box needed to be in undamaged condition. The problem with that is that the snout of the new overrun pulley had damaged the motocraft box in shipment (which does not give the me warm fuzzies btw).. so strictly speaking it was a gamble if it would be eligible for core charge refund. luckily they (RockAuto) did refund the core charge And I've been keeping an eye on the voltage & current output & battery SOC to see if the new overrun clutch is slipping.

what do you call a med student who graduates at the bottom of his class? Doctor..

one mechanic to another, I despise most of the people in this business. There are some talented guys.. and gals i presume, but there are a whole lot of money grabbing hacks and thieves. Mostly I blame the flat rate system for incentivizing production at all cost.. So conscientiousness and quality don't stand a chance..

yeah, with 10.2:1 compression plus 20PSI of boost, its a miracle these things don't grenade, but the management system is constantly listening for any hints of ping & adjusting timing before you can even hear it. Given that fact, I find it is good insurance to run the best fuel (93 octane Top Tier) and best oil & filter available. "Best" is arguable and has been well-argued since the dawn of the interwebs, but my personal preferences include a true fully synthetic oil with low high-temp volatility, and a high quality synthetic media filter. I have never seen dreadful sludge in my oil changes.. and that includes when i was running 15k intervals of my 98 Buick Riviera with the series II 3800 w supercharger. Even though that motor was spec'ed for 5w-30, I ran Mobil 1 Red Cap 15w-50 in it from the day i bought at 115k miles, until i sold it at 205K miles, and I beat it like a red headed step child every day of its life (once fully warmed up) It loved it. And when i did the valve cover gaskets, the internals were GD pristine. ZERO sludge. I know that sounds like tall tales and a lot of hyperbole, but it is the absolute truth.

its not your imagination I've run 5w-30, 5w-40, and a 5w-30 + 10w-40 blend (4 + 2 respectively) and now 0W-40. The engine definitely likes (and runs quieter with) the heavier oil That said, if your oil pump is driven by a wet belt.. the extra load might not be too advisable.. but as we know, I don't like/trust them damned things. 🤣

on the subject of viscosity, i recently changed to a euro formula Mobil 1 0w-40 better flow when cold, better oil pressure when hot, and the engine definitely likes it. oil pressure is everything when your cam timing is controlled by modulating oil pressure to a cam phaser

I agree with you. I suspect their logic falls in the thought of being just good enough to last the duration of the warranty..

fuel cleaners etc are of no use for valve cleaning on direct injected engines.. unless there are supplemental port injectors.. because the fuel never gets into the induction plenum / ports if you want to get in to the real tech weenie level, you need to understand that different oils of THE SAME VISCOSITY, will entirely different volatility rates, and this is the primary part of the oil caught by the catch can system. https://www.bestsynthetic.com/volatility.shtml A full synthetic of high quality will resist coking more than some garbage blended synthetic, which will minimize coking on rings, intake valves etc and the catch can does nothing about blow by, it just collects oil and water (ETC) before it can get to the valves. The blow by still happens.

Yes, there are factors that effect catch can filling. There is a measured specification of oil volatility at temperature which, if it is one of the very volatile ones, you will get more oil vapor, and in cold weather, more condensation of that vapor to make oil collection to fill the cup faster. There are also the variables of fuel/air mixture and ring seal which each separately effect (a), how much water is generated from combustion, and (b), how much of that water gets past the rings and into the crankcase. And again, under-hood temps will effect the rate at which it condenses in the catch can. Regarding the lubrication question, port fuel injectors keep intake valves clean which helps maintain normal flow dynamics, which is everything for engine performance and stability. Our eco-boost motors, (at least the 2.7) do not have port injectors, so without a catch can, the oil will collect and coke up on the back of the valve and stem. on vehicles that DO have port injectors (or TBIs or carburetors for that matter), they would wash away any oil film, so lubrication is really not a factor here. Port fuel injectors also cause some amount of cooling of the valve, which is helpful as an addition to the air cooling of the incoming air charge for the valve. Similarly, the oil/water that the normal (no catch can) engine lets back into the intake could benefit the intake valves on some level, but the carbon accumulation as a consequence is a definite negative.

Perfectly normal. Surprising to have that much in there that quickly, but that just means you should set a reminder to check it every 1,000 miles the white milky garbage is oil and water mixed up.

if it makes you feel any better, I've been here for 4 years as of Apr 4 of this year, and I'm a newbie too. in fact i just got my one year chip within the last 24 hours W/E it doesn't matter

yeah, pretty much that. software, that allows very low level access to the systems in Ford vehicles. Its not terribly intuitive, and there's a steep learning curve, but its very powerful. check out this page, do some reading. https://forscan.org/documentation.html

I'd guess this would be easier to accomplish with forscan and more easily reversible if you ever decided to sell the car and re-enable all the bells and whistles. I don't know precisely where that data bit is but i'm sure someone does

hell, you can forgo the welding and just sleeve and clamp it if you don't have the welding tools or ability. from the size of the flow stream out the weep hole, it looks like it is opened up to 3/8 inch dia..

interesting. probably the weep hole is rusted open to a larger caliber than it was originally. also possible that rust inside one or both of the mufflers has allowed some internal baffle to move, causing a restricted path for flow, forcing the weep hole to dump more

So I just discovered that the alternator output lead on my 2016 has an amp loop to measure current output. Using the OBDLinkMx Bluetooth dongle and app, I have been monitoring the output and generally see up to 100A at 14.8-15V after startup. This is with a brand new alternator and the biggest battery that fits

there are options that let you upgrade the Sync system by software alone, beyond what the manufacturer would endorse just something to consider https://cyanlabs.net/applications/syn3updater/

Several years ago I used a Uhaul trailer to transport my vehicle (1998 Buick Riviera) from CT to CA .. and back.. (long story) definitely a viable option