enigma-2

Just for reference, here's a video from Mactfordedge on the location for the water pump weep hole.

Probably a low pressure area. Try cleaning it thoroughly and polishing it with a good Carbona. Nothing sticks to a good wax job,

Is this cool or what? It's a 6 LED, 5.5mm Waterproof Borescope Inspection Camera that plugs into your Andorid cellphone, for $3 + $4 shipping. (Used for peaking inside the engine, or wherever.) https://www.amazon.com/Vanvler-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescope-Inspection/dp/B078MMVMXZ/ref=sr_1_12?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1518826634&sr=1-12&keywords=windows+xp+for+windows+10

I have a mulches kit for my Simplicity, but can't use it in the spring when blue grass is going nuts. Works great in summer if I don't try to go too fast or mow wet(ish) grass. From just a personal perspective, I don't like keeping a unit for too long, the new stuff has real advantages. Looks nicer ;-) and with the modern stuff, eliminates the worry of failure. I kept my last unit too long, 8 years, Briggs Professional, started it up on afternoon and went to full throttle. Turns out they use plastic parts for the governor INSIDE THE ENGINE. Have to remove the engine and tear it down to change. Had the dealer pick it up and he co u lfnt get the electric clutch off the engine shaft (welded itself on). I went down and verified it was welded on. Only way to get it off was to destroy it. Add this cost to labor and you can guess it's not worth to repair these units when the get old. Not like to old days when duct tape and WD40 fixed everthing.

Here's a Youtube video showing how to use Kool-It to disinfect the HVAC housing. Not on the firewall, but you should be able to get to it nonetheless. https://youtu.be/Bi22mdXj3wM Here's the product on Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kIlHAb25PNB7R .

Generally of the drivers side is wet you would suspect the HVAC drain. By "pax", if your referring to the passenger side being wet, you may have developed a leak around the moon roof (if equipped). Others have reported it runs down the channel into the floor boards. Another place these cars leak is in the door hinge area. Couple of thoughts on the flapping noise. One could be one of the front mud flaps. Another could be a part of the underbelly cover had come loose. Test is easy enough, wiggle the mud flaps and see if you can recreate. And/or look under the car and see if the underside looks completely intact. (Usualky it's just a fastener or two that's been lost, easy fix. Rubbing sound turning left - mud flap loose, snow, ice buildup. Plastic fender well may be suspect, but that would be somewhat extreme. Still, should be visible, back the car out of the garage, turn hard left and do a visual in both front wheelwells.

CV joint going bad.

There have been a lot of complaints about buting at Lowes. No one the can service them. I've also head a lot of complaints about the low end JD sold there. They have the John Deere name, but there cheapened up to compete with the less expensive brands. Cub cheapened up a lot after they sold. My local dealer carry the brand, but has a lot of complaints of the quality. (Not the Cub of old). Personally I own a Simplicity Broadmore, but you're not going to get close with either a better John Deere or Simplicity for $1500. The important thing to remember is, tractors of today are NOT the quality of 15 years ago. If you want to go cheap, look at Craftsman (made by AYP). Especially when they are on sale. There's another forum I belong to that has excellent advice, pros and regular owners. Maybe a better place to ask for advice as it's only about lawn tractors http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/forumdisplay.php/1-Equipment-Forums

Mactfordedge did a video on the replacments.

Coolant first. New plugs if you have >90k miles. Like WWWPerfA stated, transmission and PTU (if you have AWD). Open for argument, but tranny at 60K, PTU ~30k. Brake fluid and power steering around 100k (or 6 years). Blinker fluid as needed ;-)

Did they use Motorcraft or aftermarket?

Goodness. You own a car lot!

To be specific, covers Ford Edge's built between April 25, 2017 to June 20, 2017, and have the 2.0 L engine eith the 6F35 tranny.

Page 82 of the owners manual lays out the conditions of what is acceptable for condensation and what is not. [sic] "Exterior lamps have vents to accommodate normal changes in air pressure. Condensation can be a natural by-product of this design. When moist air enters the lamp assembly through the vents, there is a possibility that condensation can occur when the temperature is cold. When normal condensation occurs, a fine mist can form on the interior of the lens. The fine mist eventually clears and exits through the vents during normal operation. Clearing time may take as long as 48 hours under dry weather conditions. Examples of acceptable condensation are: The presence of a fine mist (no streaks, drip marks or large droplets). A fine mist covers less than 50% of the lens. Examples of unacceptable condensation are: A water puddle inside the lamp. Streaks, drip marks or large droplets present on the interior of the lens. If you see any unacceptable condensation, have your vehicle checked by an authorized dealer."

Check at your local NAPA dealer. Most Ford dealers look to local NAPA dealer as parts supply for parts they don't stock. Should run about $30-$40 each.

Usually wheel size makes a difference. IE shocks for an 18" wheel are different from a 20", which are different from a 21". Aftermarket supply universal only. A compromise.

Not certain about other makes, but Tryco makes a line of direct replacment wipers. For my 09 MKX they carry 10 different types (or styles) each designed to fit a hook style connection; mostly without an adaptor. (They also make some that are universal, but I dont use them). However, the back blade is only a universal style. I've used mostly Tryco since I was discharged from the service over 40 years ago. Tried other brands and never found anything that worked better. NAPA carries them if your unable to find locally. I've also found them at Meyers. FYI http://www.tricoproducts.com/Drivers/InstallationVideos?TrVehicleMakeModelYearIdent=8693&TrProductIdent=19&TrArmTypeIdent=1 On my last replacment set, I had a bad blade on the drivers side (It jumped across the windshield creating a thumping, squeeking sound, and didn't clean propetly). Called Tryco and they sent me a new blade immediately. No questions asked, didn't have to supply a sales receipt. Great company to work with. .

BosCH is excellent, I prefer Tryco. (Tryco is usually what the OEM manufacturers use. But NOT what you get at the dealer for replacment - which can be anything the dealer chooses to stock. Local dealer parts counter told this to me years ago, and verified by service maanger at a later date). To make your blades last, start with a super clean windshield: (I did this nearly a year ago and still beads water) And clean your blades whenever you refill the tank (take the sponge on the backside of the squeegee they provide at the pump and, wet as possible, run it across the length of the blade. To make blades last as long as possible (true of whatever brand you use) spray a coating od 303 Protectant on the blades 3-4 x year. The way blades fail is, the UV causes as chemical reaction in the rubber and they get hard. The Protectant will block the damage from UV.

We're watching the Olympics from Sout Korea and it turns out that Russia has been banded for cheating. The only Russian athletes that are allowed, compete under the name OAR, Olympic Athlete of Russia.

Standard stuff, I'd go with stainless steel. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F371459309174

Ur local wally world or hardware will have many varieties of self-adhesive bumpers.

See if this helps https://itstillruns.com/fix-window-falls-down-door-6167627.html

The steel has to be completely clean, dry & bonded properly. Problems come from trapping moisture between the coating and the metal. Older coatings split and chip, allowing moisture to migrate between the coating and become trapped there. I had one of my cars undercoated professionally. They cleaned the bottom with steam, allowed to dry for couple of hours then the coating. Had to take it back every year for touchup. Still rusted in spots they could reach.

OM says it's a 590 (or 760 with 2.0L and start/stop).

Guess I'm a little confused. Does the car crank, but not fire, or do you get a no-crank condition?