enigma-2

If it's just in the garage, hang a tennis ball from the ceiling so that it just touches the windshield when she's in far enough. (I use a Chamberlain parking aid that my wife has learned to ignore quite well). Ballpark Parking Ball - Lights Confirm Your Car Is In Exact Spot Every Time https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5I3E4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hQU6zb2GFFV56

It almost a sounds like your in a vicious circle of one thing leading to another. It is possible for the PCM to fry a coil. If it's defective it can tell coil #1 to fire continously, overheating the coil. Wouldn't think so as it's been replaced, but if a bad coil weakened the PCM and then replaced, allowing the PCM to now damage the coil. You could pull the PCM anf have it tested. If it's defective it's $300. https://circuitboardmedics.com/2007-2010-lincoln-mkx-pcm-ecm-repair/

Perhaps you can add parking sensors to the front bumper. (Like the ones on the rear, that beep when you get too close, only on the front).

The best advice is to replace your battery, it's probably going bad. As a battery ages, unless it's kept fully charged (it's slowly discharging even when the car is off), the plates will grow crystals, lowering the battery's capacity. If the new battety wad rated at, say, 650 CCA, a battery with crystalized plates may only be able to provide 400 CCAs. But, a standard battety test will still show that the voltage is ok. So even with good voltage the battery is still failing.

This is about the only thing I can think of (without hooking up a OBD II tester and reading the codes). It's a remote possibility, but while your fiancee was in the store someone backed into the car and tripped the fuel impact switch. This is designed to trip the fuel pump off (prevents fuel from being pumped out of the tank after an accidient). Car will crank but no fuel is being pumped. Brings up one more easy possibility, is there sufficient fuel in the tank? Car will drive and shut off ok, but if she parked on a grade with little fuel in tank, it's possible that the fuel can get drawn up but the pump. Other than that, there are dozens of items that can cause a no start. Have to pull the codes to narrow down to the system/part.

In addition to IWRBB's suggestion above, here's a SAE o-ring set for $14. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OMKIDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNJ6zbGNPH1JT

No WiFi, just USB.

My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine. SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7vs6zbY665Z05 Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ??? Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zfs6zbXSJTFQR Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car. One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals. These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.

Ive read there are a couple of reasons a battety shorts internally. One is the plates develope crystals. When they grow large enough, they can bridge from one plate to another, shorting the cell. The other (and more common) is the lead plates breakdown over time, shedding small particles of lead to build up at the bottom of the battery. When it gets deep enought, this layer of lead sulphate reaches one the bottom of the plates, shorting them out. There are several videos on YouTube showing how to dump out the water-acid solution, flush out the battery and neutralize it with baking soda, then refill with acid or vinigar. Works! (But for how long)?

I seriously doubt that you car is eating your battery. A batterys lifespan is directly influenced by two factors, surrounding temperature and driving habits. Hot climate will evaporate the water from the electrolyte. By periodically checking the battery's water level and bringing it back to the full level, will greatly extend its lifespan. (How often does anyone check their battery's water level)? Stop and start driving and driving short trips (under 20 minutes) on a regular basis doesn't give the alternator enough time to recharge. Done on a regular basis with slowly but consistently will shorten its life expectancy. (Never really fully recharges by reversing the chemical reaction from starting). You may not be able to prevent short trips, but you can counter it's effects by using one of the new types of battery chargers, ones that use pulse charging. These new types of chargers can break down the crystals that form on the plates and return a battery to its original CCA rating. (A regular battery charger will recharge a battery, but it will only recharge to a reduced CCA rating). For example, assume a new battery is rated at 665 Cold-Cranking Amps. But due to short trips, the plates have sulphated and the battety can only deliver 554 CCAs. After two years the battery may only be able to deliver 480 CCAs. Sooner or later it's going to prematurely fail. Here's an example of the type of charger I'm talking about. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lHp6zb8SZEEQK

Everyone has their favorites when it comes to tires. I've had bad luck with Michelin in the past. Great up to around 20K the turned to ♧hit. Loud, harsh. Went back to Sam Club and the tire magager told me I had ran through the soft rubber and into the hard rubber now (soft rubber to give tire smooth, quiet ride, then hard rubber to give long milage. Only way to get long milage was to use rubber with harder qualities). My love affair with Michelin was over (and I read they are still doing this. In the Amazon user remarks). Anyway .... I used tirerack.com to narrow down the search when I decided to put on a set on new tires. After narrowing the search to 2-3 tires (based on user ratings and tirerack's testing), I then looked up these three on Amazon and read the user remarks over there. My first choice had been the Michelin's. Rated tops on tirerack.Com but on Amazon many users were reporting short tire life (10K in one example) so I decided to go with my number 2 choice, the Bridgestone's Duelers. (This had also been the same tire that I had on the car currently). https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoModClar=FWD&width=245%2F&ratio=60&diameter=18&sortCode=54053&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=S&minLoadRating=S#0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=tires+245%2F60-18 Beware of any glowing user comments if they only are reporting after a 100 miles or so. You want to read how the tires are doing after 5k, 10K 20k. Over the long hull. How are the holding up? Are they still smooth and quiet? (Taking age into consideration). I've had no problems whatsoever with the Bridgestone's, fairly quiet, smooth and long lasting. As all tires grow louder and harsher with age, the Bridgestone's aged very well. Growing only slightly louder, mostly on cement. (As I'm running 20" wheels and have AWD, they may or may not be the best choice for your 18" wheels). Now as to price, I found tirerack.Com to be the lowest advertised price locally, (they actually have a tire store within 40 miles), I printed out the page and took it to my dealer. He started out by looking in his computer and quoting l'cheapo, garbage tires to suck me in, so I immediately countered with the tirerack quote; and he immediately matched. Nice thing about going through Ford, great mechanics (you know the job will be done right) and you can put it on your Ford Credit Card. Six months and no interest! Six months of OPM! And, they will match any published price. (They don't like to let you know this, all you have to do is ask). FWIW, I ask for a senior discount everywhere I go. Don't need it, just cheap. Get it usually too. We were in a very fancy, French restaurant in Seattle a few weeks ago, asked for a senior discount, waiter looked down on me and my wife like "you must be kidding". I sat there not saying anything, continued to stare at him ..... and he finally said something like "but of course" (French accent, probably fake). Got 5%. It's a contest you know. Just ask. Also, they will rebate you $50 for using their credit, and, I bought when Ford was offering a $75 rebate on Bridgestone, so got that discount as well. (Rebates came as two separate preloaded debit cards). You can sign up and get approved for Ford Credit Card right at the service desk. Took three minutes. (Having too many credit cards, or cards you never use, only lowers your credit score 5-10 points, so no biggie). Discount Tire is another good place to check as they do a lot of business and have never heard any bad remarks about them. .

Change the plugs, coolant & PTU fluids (if AWD) asap. Change tranny fluid. Then all other fluids (power steering, brakes & rear axle). Engine air filter, cabin air filter and seat filters (if seats are air conditioned). Check for abnormal wear on tires. (May need 4-wheel alignment). Check tire pressures (esp spare).

I don't have the 2013 service manual, but looking at the owners manual, fuse #6 is for the radio frequency module.

The 2013 Edge uses an 80 Bit transponder-equipped key to communicate between the FOB and the remote receiver. Strattec Corp is the only Ford authorized manufacturer of Ford 80 Bit IPATS key blanks. They also have SA stamped on the blade. (If if has HA on the blade it was manufactured by Huf, the only other authorized supplier, and is not an 80 Bit FOB). If your replacment does not have a S or SA stamped on the blade, it should be regarded as a 40 Bit FOB, and will not work in your car. .

If the dealer states that they can't change the fluid in the PTU and a new PTU must be installed, know that another dealer may be willing to change it. Also, most if not all transmission shops will change it. (Fluid has to be pumped out of the fill hole).

Ford requires the PTU and rear axle fluid to be changed after driving through a flooded street. These are vented assemblies and water will reduce the lubricating properties by q very large margin.

I believe that I would clean the FOB contacts first, just to eliminate the FOB. The fact that the car takes the programming and then doesn't retain the programming indicates that the RKE may be bad in the car. I don't know if would help or not, think I would try pulling the RKE fuses for a few minutes and see if it resets the unit.

The coils fail because the plugs were not changed. The gap grows too large, this requires more and more current to fire across the larger gap and this extra current heats up the coils over the safe operating temperature. When they get too hot, they fail. The PCM fails when a coil (or coils) fail. As the plugs were never changed, there are other areas to be concerned about. Change coolant, PTU lubricant (if AWD) and transmission fluid. Less important are brake, power steering and rear axle fluids. Wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the air filter, cabin air filter and seat blower filters (if you have seat cooling).

Its not a design flaw, nor should it be considered ad a recall item. It's a failure of thr owner to perform the routine maintenance of changing the plugs at 90,000 miles. When you replace the plugs and coils, you should be ok with the PCM. Usually it's the feedback from a defective coils that causes additional load on the output and the PCM fails. If it hasn't failed currently, it should be OK (no one can really tell without doing a lot of tests on the unit).

Common failure. I replaced the fan assembly on my 09, last year (still under extended warranty). You are going to need to replace the fan assembly (consists of both fans, support platform and fan controller). Whether you do it yourself (15 minutes, but you will need to get the car in the air), or have a garage do it, go with Motorcraft. Aftermarket have reported problems. Motorcraft runs about $220 w/o tow pkg, $260 with factory tow pkg.

Aftermarket panels are often made from a lighter gauge steel and not always made from galvanized steel. That being said, this aftermarket hood looks interesting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA3YLJ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Icr5zbH270ZHD

Any possibility the battery in the "new" FOB is dying? No way of knowing how long it sit at the sellers store front. Just a few bucks to rule this out.

X2 on everything Paul said. The only part I would add to, is servicing the transmission. Under "severe" service, the maintenance manual states change fluid at 30,000 miles if (1) pulling a trailer, camper or rooftop carrier, or (2) excessive idling or all local trips (think taxi). Basically, if your uncertain as the the service history, its best if you change ALL fluids.

May have been too much for the PCM.

Look at all the ratings shown on tirerack.Com. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2016&autoModel=Edge+FWD&autoModClar=Sport&width=265%2F&ratio=40&diameter=21&sortCode=61028&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=V&minLoadRating=S#0 Igor the winter tires and look closely at the OEM tires.