enigma-2

I think that "thatqtpie" acctually meant the ACM and not the APIM. The ACM is the audio control unit (I think it also includes the AN/FM, CD/DVD, navigation and amp), and the APIM is the separate Sync module. He could probably pick up a used unit on Ebay, cheap.

I have a good battery charger but this device is more. They are claiming it to be a "rejuvenater". (Patients, etc.). It claims to physically change the lead sulphate back into lead and acid, restoring the original life to a battery. They way I interpret their claim is, say you have an older battety that had 650 CCA when it was new. Your BA-7 now says that its down to 530 CCA'S. You slap on your Battety Tender (or whatever) and charge it. You still can only charge it back to 530 CCAs. This device supposedly clears the lead sulphate and returns the battery back to 650 CCAs. Kind of reminds me of a paste I used as a teenager, think it was called VX-7 or smething like that. Anyway, had an old battery that needed replacing, squeezed a little in each cell, and ... bang, battery had new life, outlasted the car. Forget was in it, but it also claimed to breakdown the lead sulphate.

These things happen, no one's fault and Ford certainty has no responsibility to provide you with monetary assistance. You can easily pull the radio, send it off to these folks & get it repaired for ~$300. https://navrepair.com/products/ford-lincoln-mercury-clarion-gps-navigation-radio-system-repair-service

Probably still bad fans or fan controller. At 45 mpg you don't need fans, has enough air flow through the radiator; only need them when idling.

You can put a request for your parts on this site. It goes out to all associated auto yards in the the US with the parts you need and they will respond directly to you. http://www.automotix.net/

Anyone try one of these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSY8BR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Np4PzbZTT5RSC

One remote possibly, check the relief valve on your radiator cap. This pressure relief valve on the underside of the cap is designed to hold the pressure in while the coolant is cold. After it heats up, it starts to open allowing the coolant to overflow into the coolant recovery container. (After it cools down, the partial vacuum in the radiator sucks the coolant back out of the container to refill the radiator and engine). If it stuck closed, the pressure in the radiator and engine would have risen over specification (don't know what the Edge runs at, 14 psi?), and forced coolant out of the system where a hose joins the metal connector. That would explain the loss when she was driving, but not later after you opened the cap and corrected the problem. Thinking corrosion caused the cap to malfunction. Have you changed the coolant per schedule? (Use the proper stuff)?

Just tap on the thumbnail and pinch and spread to enlarge.

Triple on the BA-7. I bought one and my old battery tested low on CCA's. Read battery bad. I had two tests run on this battery by the local Ford garage; both times reported battery was fine. It died at the grocery store. Great little tester to monitor battery condition and charging systems.

Actually there is, sort of. For my Escort Passport Max2 I used a harness that plugs into the back of my rearview mirror. Turns on the detector when the ignition is in run, off when turned off & door opened (same delay as radio, etc.). You can buy a harness for several different radar detectors and dashcams (each brand has a different connector). Installation takes <5 minutes (start to finish). Here's one simular to the one I bought, others are available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1XF4XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f8YPzbXEN19Q8 Here's MirrorTap's website: https://www.mirrortap.com/ .

My guess is 1/2 hr.

Just curious, did you use OEM plugs and coils?

He said he had no codes. Low pressure would have set P0087 (think that's the one). My guess is he split a vacuum hose when he removed/reinstalled the intake. Still, that should also set a code.

Ah yes, sounds like you are referring to Law discovered by Dr. Murphy.

Here's a video I posted a while back. See if this sounds like your problem.

Sounds to me like the strut mount bearing is seizing. It's allowing the coil spring to rotate on its base. The spring does not move smoothly however, it jumps as it rotates, creating the clicking (or "ratching") type sound. Best if you Motorcraft. Depending on how many miles you have on your car, may consider replacing the struts as well. (After all you have to pull them to change the strut mounts anyway). Motorcraft also sells a preassembled strut/spring assy. Don't have to worry about borrowing or buying a spring compressor and removing the old mount and spring. Just remove old strut and pitch. New strut goes right in. Saves time and restores the original height (if that's a concern). .

You can check for yourself (just to keep them homest). The tire date code is the last four number of the DOT code. Look for the "DOT" on the tire (can be on either side) and you should find the last four numbers in an oval (code changes each week so they use a template). The first two number is the week of the year, the second is the year. For example, today's date code is 3517. This is the 35th week of 2017.

Yea, well how does that compare to the giant hit, "I Sold My Heart to the Jumkman"? lol

Nothing I've every seen in my MKX. Probably have to run the wire above the headliner.

With all of the unrelated faults that are occurring, there appears to be only one component that's common to all. It's the Smart Junction Box. Before taking it to a dealer however, how old is you battery? Batteries that still test good on a regular tester will still have internal problems and cause problems with circuits. (Unlikely in your case, but still a distant possibility). Those two items would be the first thing I would suspect as to the root cause. BTW, the drivers window is powered from fuse #4 in the SJB (cabin fuse panel). It's a 30 amp fuse. Did you check it?

We just got back from there. Check out Leavenworth Zip Lines if your looking for fun. https://www.leavenworthziplines.com/ I swear, Seattle is the most confusing city to drive around. Got lost everywhere. (BTW, I Gould Google Maps the best program to use there). Hope you have a great time.

Simple, stop swimming in them.

Ya man, they would sure come in handy down in Texas right now. Seriously, I can't imagine what those poor people are going through. 40"-50" of rain and I'm worried about stepping puddles? Bet I know where we can pick up a brand new Edge or MKX in a few weeks... really cheap!

Whatever the kid in the car next to is listening to ......

Sadly my extended warranty comes to an end next month. After this will will only cover the cup holders (I think). The best insurance is to do all of the preventive maintenance, and other stuff not required (such as changing the PTU, axle, brake and pwr steering fluid$). I also authorize most repairs the service department recommends. Fix it now before it causes others parts to weaken and fail. (I.E. a worn Tie rod end thats getting worn will put extra stress on the rest of the suspension and drive leakage).