enigma-2

Here's a webite where you can find any part through a network of salvage yards. http://www.automotix.net/

"Instant water"? Isn't that the stuff you mix with powered water and sunshine?

I agree, you probably have a leak. I would look closely at the radio antenna. You should be able to remove the stain with Woolite. Apply it with with the plastic brush on top of the can; scrub lightly and the stain should be removed.

It mat be helpful if you were to take the car to auto zone and see if your getting any trouble codes.

I pulled up the service manual for my 09 and it shows the fuse to be F21, a 7.5 amp. The Evap Canister vent solenoid is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module. Fuse F21 is locared in the Battery Junction Box (fuse box in the engine compartment). From the looks of it, I would guess that the fuse is good as it also powers the PCM as well. By the looks of it, that leaves only the selonoid at fault.

You are probably correct, I wasn't listening closely when he went over the reasons. What I do remember was the OEM, coolant had been found to not offer protection for certain metals used in the heater core and water pump. (Don't recall what they were, just "certain metals".) But changing the coolant is number one on the list as the problems encountered with a failed water pump (kills the engine et al) are to grear to ignore.

It's been reported that on some of the aftermarket fan centers, the connection pin outs are wrong in the fan center connector (the one the car's harness connects t. You could do a pin-by-pin trace and figure out which pins need to be swapped in tbe connector. (Believe it was only two wires that were in the wrong pin slots). (Possibly a cut and switch on the two wires. Easier then r&r with a new unit).

Yea, but you guys have muffadillo's down there. (Haven't you seen all the dead mufflers laying in the highway?)

5% tint is the legal limit in all states FWIW.

Whoa, I didn't know that you could divide the files into directories!!! You try a different SD card to eliminate the possibility of a bad card?

Yeaaaaa, I can just see it now, pulls into a crowded parking lot, steps out of the car like he owns the place, checks his reflection in the outside mirror: hair in place (check), dark glasses (check), gut sucked in (uh well, check). Look-ing-good. Now he slowly opens the door aaaallllllll the way open. Not fast, but with deliberate effort to show his new, one-of-a-kind, Chinese, hinge, bolt, covers. Ooooohhhh yaaaaaa. Looks not at the assembling crowd, but at the clouds, the stars, the infinity of human existence. Now, don't give them too much, close the door sloooooly, let them lean over to hold a look as long as they can. Click. The door is now closed, locked, and you strut confidently away, a small smile can be seen as you enter the local Targja to ponder to latest additions in the auto department.....

Which color? https://youtu.be/L8TwwV709v4 (33:10)

LOL

I cheat. I had the Ford garage do it during routine service. Full flush, buffer and refill. It's most important that if you are changing from Ford orange (or whatever came standard in your car) to the newer Gold, that you must completely clear out all of your old coolant (do not mix new with old). On my 09 MKX maintenance manual, it specifies to change the coolant at 105,000 mile intervals. Thr dealer recommended I change the coolant as soon as the TSB came out. Ok'ed - believe it wad around 86,000 miles. They said the sooner the better as it was found that the OEM coolant did not provide sufficient corrosion protection. They specifically mentioned the inside of the heater core and water pump.

Heres a Youtube video on where to find the code. And here's a video on how to program you own personal code in the car: Just as with you key FOBS, you can program a personal entry code, that will set your seat position & exterior mirrors to your pre-set positions. (These can be set differently for both you and your wife). To set both a key code that will unlock the door (s) AND set the seat position, enter the factory code, then press 1/2, then your new 5-digit door unlock code, and finally press 1/2 for your code, or 3/4 for your wife's. (Or visa/versa depending on who lays claim the car). BTW, you can only program 3-personal codes (I ♧think it's only 3♧). Anyway, the previous owner probably programmed his personal entry code(s) and they will still be active. It's best if you erase all personal entry codes first. To do this, enter the factory set 5-digit code, then within five seconds press the 1/2 button on the keypad and release, then press and hold the 1/2 button for two seconds. This must be done within five seconds. All personal codes are now erased and only the factory set 5-digit code will work.

None of these things is important. The next thing on your list should be coolant. Do a complete buffered, flush. Rinse twice. (You don't want to have to replace the water pump in these engines). After this consider changing the power steering and brake fluids. (Fluids wear out and lose their protective properties). Next pour in a bottle of Techron in the gas to clean the injectors. Now fix the deer scratch. I like cabin air filters with carbon. Tests show they are better on filter diesel exhaust. FYI here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6NBO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SRyBzb1D1S2PS

Yup. Only do it 5-6 times and let the breaks cool between the farts and giggles.

Great experiment. Consider adding Motorcraft blend as the Ford dealers now use.

There should be no bare wires anywhere in your car. The silver color is a tin coating over the copper. It may be best to rip out whatever wiring is there (sounds like a micky mouse install) and install a known wiring harness. http://www.installer.com/cars/by_car.php?carid=6418

You burnish to new pads after you put them on?

Sorry, sitting here in the cool of the evening after mowing the back 40, drinking a perfect Margarita and screwing around with your post. Meant to hit the delete button and hit post by mistake. Wish there was a way to delete pots in the forum.

Probably made by muffler borers. They're attracted to the carbon in the hot exhaust gases and will usually chew a perfectly round 1/8" diameter hole near the end of a muffler. Two holes are normal, one's an entrance and one's an exit. The exit can be identified as the one with heavier carbon deposit. (Actually it's part of their waste products). Easy enough to get rid of them, when you start a cold engine, the hot exhaust gasses will condense on tbe cold Steel of the muffler and form water. They usually are swept along with the condensate to the small holes at the end of the muffler and get carried out. Just let them be, don't go digging around in the warer, they really get angry when the get rinsed out and will probably look to take it out on whoever is nearby. (And we all know how bad toenail fungus can get).

My experience with long-life Michelin's was super quiet and super smooth for the first 20k. Then they get into the hard rubber (to give you the extended milage) and they got loud and hard. It got so bad I had new tires put on. I see whete others on Amazon has seen the same thing, most complain of rapid wear. I decided long ago not to go with Michelin's again. Happy with Bridgestone's however.

Annnnnndddd, you did it in style!!!!

On some glove compartments (don't remember which year they added those, don't have them in my 09) are plastic pins pressed into the hinges. Might check to see if they're slide all the way in.