enigma-2

Car came with a written warranty, does it read any different?

See if this video helps. https://youtu.be/NFzbJHULVDY

My mistake. On my 09 MKX there are a series of dots that effectively block the laser function of the Max 2. Personally I wouldn't want to lose the ability of using the sunvisors.

You can have anyone perform the required service, even yourself, if you follow the written instructions in your owner's manual. For 2016 it reads in part "Carefully following the maintenance schedule helps protect against major repair expenses resulting from neglect or inadequate maintenance and may help to increase the value of your vehicle when you sell or trade it. Keep all receipts for completed maintenance with your vehicle."Remember, it's up to you to prove that you performed the maintenance at the proper time, and that it met Ford's requirements as published in the service manual.

To hell with the hugs and tissues. Sounds to me like you need a couple of Golden Margarita's. ?

After the drain clogged, the water in the housing sometimes starts to turn moldly. Even though you drain the water out, the mold remains. A good product for eliminating any remaining mold is Kool-It. It's cheap and easy to use. Here's where you can find it on Amazon. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ehbxzbND266P2 And here's a Youtube video on how to use it. https://youtu.be/Bi22mdXj3wM

Hi Rachel, and welcome. Ebay is the best place to find service manuals, here's one on DVD for $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/162547729860 and here's a used set of hard copy OEM manuals for $75 + $10 shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/232324492429

Anyone notice that they are switching to all-aluminum beds? Ha. Same aluminum beds they criticized Ford for using. The dumped in a loaded toolbox, edge first to show that the toolbox punched a hole in the aluminum bed, but not in their steel bed. Annnnnnnnddddd now their going to aluminum. Heh, heh, heh. "How sweeeeeet it is". (aka Jackie Gleason).

Navigation upgrade runs around $800. Here's a site that can help point you in the right direction. https://www.4dtech.com/11-14-ford-edge-navigation-kit-for-myford-touch-systems/ Two more things, one abut fluids, change the coolant first. (Most important with the 3.5/3.7L engines). If you have AWD have the PTU lubricant drained and replaced as soon as possible. 36k is a good interval (maintenance manual states it doesn't need to be changed, but it's 36k for severe service). Also look for early stages of seal failure after 50k (have service dept check at each oil change). Change seal as soon as a leak detected. If you have around 90k, change the plugs. (Very important). And while you have the manifolds off, change the PVC valve as well.

There's always the aftermarket route. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z9Z17SOIOIm/carsystems/Ford-Edge-Stereos-and-Speakers.html

Mounting it near the sun visor will put it behind the coating at the top of the windshield. This will attenuate part of the signal and dramatically shorten tbe reception range.

Someplace else for advertisers to track you.

Congrats on your "new" 11. You are going to love it. I would recommend Weathertech floor mats as a first option. Also need to set up an account on ford owner and check to see if your Sync is up to date. This site will explain how to do this: https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-technology/sync/software-updates/how-to-install-ford-sync-updates-in-your-vehicle.html If you have navigation, you may wish to consider upgrading the map software. Cost is $150. The site can be found here: http://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD?utm_medium=oemreferral&ProgramUUID=YIgKCghBOhcAAAFHefQZ9oZe&utm_campaign=Navteq-Partnership&utm_source=Ford-Owners

Yea, my dealer kept telling me that my battery was good. I bought a Solar 9 (thanks again Mac) and it showed low CCA's. Took it back in again with a coupon for a free check and again nothing wrong. Two or three weeks later it died at the grocery store. Like WWWPerfA_ZNOW (that's a mouthfull) said, it's the CCA's, not voltage.

Boy, if I had a nickel for every time I've heard that, .....

Yoy have to use both IA's. But it probably doesn't work for the 14 m/y.

Curious, what was wrong with the original cold air intake?

^Second that. Perhaps the computer just needed to be reset.

I also suspect a weak battery.

Setting a VOM on volts puts the meter in series with the load (measuring current places a shunt in parallel across the load). The "fuse panel" is actually a computerized control module. My 'guess' is you placed a bolted short through the smart junction box (fuse box) and damaged it. I don't know of any way to test it to determine its condition. The failure of the back lighting could be a LED failure, corrosion or a wiring failure. If I'm not mistaken, all the car's back lighting is controlled by one fuse, therefore if any of the back lighting is working, the fuse is good. The feed runs to a single connection point and branches from there. LEDS do wear out over time, voltage spikes, heat, time all play a factor in their life.

I doubt that. Ford does the engineering specification for the struts and bids it out to several vendors. I would imagine the vendor with the lowest price, which still meets their specifications, gets the contract. But I seriously doubt that they are "cheap" (in the usual sense). Each strut is designed for each specific vehicle. Aftermarket has to match a great number of makes, models and designs. Motorcraft is tuned for a specific feel, aftermarket are stiffer because of the diversity they are required to meet. ------ As an unrelated fact while looking up the struts for my MKX, Lincoln specs a different strut for 20" wheels than they do for 18"! That never occurred to me.

I know on later years there's a process using fobs, not certain about the 14 m/y. The process is simply enough. Firdt use your owner's manual to locate the "backup slot" in the car's center console, then insert the first key and push the engine start/stop button. Wait a few seconds, and push the button again. Remove the first key, insert the second key, and push the button a third time. The factory keypad code should flash on the car's information screen.

Must be one of those "back to the future" cars.

First look in your owner's manual for a card pocket. They previous owner may have put the plastic card which had the factory code on it. If not, there is a code permanently attached to the fuse box. Under the steering column to the left (near the brake) there is a panel. Take the panel off and with a flashlight you will see a white sticker on the fuse box. The white sticker will have a 5 digit code. That is your factory keyless entry code. Using the factory code, you can set your own personal code. Enter the factory code, hold down the 1/2 button for a few seconds and then enter your new 5-digit code that you can remember.

Forgive me for my ignorance, but doesn't the opening temperature govern the temperature the engine runs at? If it opens too early (such as deliberately using a lower temp unit), should it not maintain that temperature? I had one stick open and the car never reachef full operating temperature; even after driving a little over 100 miles. Under the impression that when it opens, the coolant begins to circulate through the radiator, cooling the coolant, closing the thermostat, causing the coolant temperature to rise again. The rated temperature of the thermostat is where the temperature of the coolant is held at. Idling and driving slowly would be the only time the coolant temperature would rise high enough to trigger on the fans. I thought that the ECU & PCM both use the temerature from the ECT, controlling both fuel delivery and auto transmission shifting. Still think it's a bad idea.