enigma-2

Drink three Martin's and drive home using the freeway. You'll get an alert. Guaranteed.

On my 2009 with automatic temperature control, the fan runs continuously (usually on low, but its speeds up to make when needed). I have a manual override if needed but usually just leave it on auto. When you say it starts up, do you mean it goes to high? Its been discussed here before, turned out to be the module.

Good writeup. Judging by looking at the pictures, it's a wonder that more lock lineages don't come off. Thanks for posting. As for why, my guess is someone replaced the handle. Last year I was at Walmart. When I got to my car, the entire outer handle came off in my hand when I pulled on it. Replacing it is easy enough, remove the screw in the end of the door and the handle pops off. May have popped off during a handle change and the mechanic (home or incompetent) either didn't notice or care. Just a guess.

Before you consider a new APIM ($$$) check the GPS antenna connection on the back of the ACU (radio). Also check for corrosion on this connection. When the ACU loses the GPS signal, it maintains the navigation by "guessing" based on speed and time. When the GPS syncs up again, it updates the screen and the map "snaps" to your current location. I wonder if the real failure is the GPS module itself. I don't know where the module is on your car, on my 2009 MJX it's above the radio, under the speaker. My guess would be the GPS antenna or module.

Like dajo2012 said, fuel injectors. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092893E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J87GFMXBP6BEP5J3A47H

That makes it a PITA to read in your living room. But you val always download a PDF version for your cell/laptop/tablet.

I think that all that does is provide 12 volt power. I believe what the OP wants is a true USB connection (so he can connect to Sync). Can't do it with a power adapter. (Most cell phones come with a 12 volt power cord that does the same thing as this adapter). To do what he needs, he must add an USB cable to the location (the Edge/MKX actually has 4 USB ports, but only 2 are wired) and add an USB connection point. Several years ago someone in the forum showed how he added a connector to add 2 more USB ports. Couldn't find it using search, but as I remember it, it was a simple connection using a new USB cable and connection point. Edit. Found this. May or may not fit the bill for your needs, but a starting point.

Ought, ought, ought, I got it. A condom held on with a rubber band...... We can call it "connectorception" and sell it on Amazon for $4 each. 什麼?

Are you able to pull codes? I remember that there were a lot of similar complaints about the 2016 system. If I remember correctly, the fix was to replace the APIM.

Keep us updated on what you find. BTW, not all NAPA parts are good quality. They work, but they do cut corners. I usually specify Motorcraft parts (even at the Ford garage. They have a habit of using NAPA to keep costs down). NAPA of today is not the NAPA if yesteryear.

I'd recommend coating the electrical connectors with an anti-corrosion spray if they're going to hang free under the car. Road salts and dirt will take its toll and you may find it difficult to use in the future if you change your mind (or when you sell car).

P0171 & P0174. Problem on the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, dirty or faulty MAF. Over oiled filters will cause the MAF to attract more dirt Downstream vacuum leaks of the Mass Air Flow sensor Possible cracks or damage on the vacuum connection or PCV line Stuck open or faulty PCV line Faulty or failed oxygen sensor Failure in the fuel injector A dirty filter resulting in low fuel pressure Exhaust leak of the first oxygen sensor and engine Look for vacuum hose/connection leak. I had a hose crack and got these codes (Ford fixed under extended warranty. Years ago and warranty paid $160+ (forget exact cost)).

Wonder how they'll top this next year. (heh).

..... not if your wife see's this.

The mini spare tire option is the 51Q package and costs $100. (Well worth it in my opinion). I didn't see any limitation when using the 401A or 66P brake packages. Best to talk to a local agent to confirm. https://www.group1auto.com/carresearch/VehicleQuickQuoteForm/year_2021/make_Ford/model_Edge/trim_ST/id_47635/confid_group1auto-responsive/section_Options/

Try this, put the key in and turn it to the start position. While holding it in the start position, move the gear selector from park to drive and back to park. Turn the key to off. Try starting. (Gearshit not registering in "park"). If not, try putting gearshift in "neutral" and try starting. Another thing you can try is turn ignition switch from off to on 8-times (leave in on) then press the door unlock on the fob, then try to start.

Wife refuses to give up her convertible (too many memories).

First if all, the clip fell off in a closed cavity and is probably still lying at the bottom of the door. If it's what ive seen before, it has a "u" section that snaps over the shaft and a double circle section that hooks to the latch bar. Anyway its probably laying in the bottom of the door. Now, if you can't find it you'll need buy a new part. Save yourself alot of time and headaches. Head down to your local Ford dealers parts department and let him look up the part. (Your probably going to have to anyway, not a common failure).

Duplicate- removed

The walk-around test mode is where you put the audio system into a test mode where each speaker is tested one-at-a-time and various other tests/functions. There are two different ways to enter the test phase. 1) tune in a FM station and hold the eject and next buttons ( >| ) at the same time for ~10 seconds. 2) (if you don't have a CD) use the skip next button on the steering wheel (left button array) and the skip next on the control interface at the same time for several seconds until the walk-around speaker test starts. When in speaker testing, you can press the menu and open a wide array of new menu options to make adjusting on the audio system that you can't make in normal use.

Have you checked the oil quantity? If light is flashing have wrecker load and take to dealer, don't drive. If older car, possibly water pump failure and coolant leaking into oil sump, watering oil and killing lubrication. Very dangerous to engine. To check, look on dipstick (when you check oil qty and look to see if oil looks ok or whether it looks "milky". If milky, its coolant and don't drive, have towed).

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I meant any "easy" way to defeat, i.e. a setting in the info panel, etc. Tearing into the car and removing equipment or changing setting in the computer's software are usually things most owners would never think of doing. I remember reading a post from a fellow in the 150 forum who pulled the microphones in his truck. Lot more work than meets the eye. (Also voids the warranty on the audio electronics if that's a consideration). The way Sage went was best, can be reversed if desired. Finding the correct settings is the real problem. I've played with FORScan and still get confused inside the BCM.

Understand. If it were me, I'd go online and take an interest in the car. The dealership will associate you and the car and (possibly) play you off against another possible buyer (give you the option to counter should someone else pop up). Could always decline their offer, but at least you would have the option to counter. 1,600 miles, big move. Hope it goes smoothly.

All cars have pressure relief valves (in the Edge or MKX, it's in door frames) otherwise when you slammed the door closed, you would blow out the back window (actually happens). As the liftgate closes very slowly, it's doubtful that this could be the cause (even if all the interior vents were to malfunction). Usually its' related to either the latch or pinch strip (flat plastic strips located on the sides of the liftgate). One other very common cause (which you probably checked) is an object, such as the net or cargo mat sticking too far into the path and having the hatch detect resistance. I have no idea as to why opening a window would help the hatch close. Run a test. Slam the drivers door closed as hard as you can. If the vents are not working, one or more windows will blow out and you have your answer.

Could always put the radio into the "all-around speaker test mode" to determine if it's working properly.