enigma-2

I just happened across this thread. Thought I'd add information in case it may help others. The LG 5 does not have built-in wireless charging, however it can be adapted to do so. This website describes how to add the required hardware. https://gizmoist.com/wireless-charging-lg-g5/

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What you're looking for, part 22 or 23 on this diagram? http://www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net/FPSS-2014-Edge-Sport-Front-Console-s/162867.htm

? http://www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net/FPSS-2014-Edge-Sport-Front-Console-p/1l2z-78046b76-aaa-64178.htm

My initial thought is your vehicle battery is weak (especially since you are not driving very often). I'd have it load tested (or test its CCA reserve). Normally, most shops tests only voltage which is NOT a good indicator of a battery's internal health. Being retired, I also don't drive as much as I used to. This is the battery tester I use to test both our car's batteries. It tests both the CCA capacity rating, as well as the cars entire charging system. (Also good for testing the tractor and generator battery's too). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5927DG7C5V633JGECH40?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Lack (or loss) of lubricate. In my wife's Sebring Convertible, I've had one bering replaced only to have it replaced again year and half later.

Like this https://www.getoemparts.com/oem-parts/ford-cup-holder-insert-ft4z5813562af?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1KiBBhCcARIsAPWqoSo8n-2Ib3uv0f4rTKWBwWEEVpHDcqnmLUYvVdHRg1xnpt7M0tnYmg0aAjz5EALw_wcB

Bummer.

I had a motor mount installed years ago. After i got the car, drove twi miles and went right back to the mechanic. He said he used NAPA. It was horrible. Heavy vibration and loud. I mean really loud. Made him change the mount to Motorcraft. Smooth and quiet. DON'T GO AFTERMARKET with motor mounts.

Like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Center-Console-Front-Cup-Holder-Inserts-2007-2014-Ford-Edge-Liner-Black-/283078993529?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Or this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Ford-Edge-OEM-Center-Console-Cup-Holder-Mat-Liner-FT4B-R046B94-A-/254380267601?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

https://shop.redline360.com/products/diode-dynamics-off-road-led-bars-6-12-18-30-42-50-white-or-amber?variant=31764202356816&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiAjp6BBhAIEiwAkO9WumCyEgS0sdJUDWmiEugtlzov8m4t5o1EoZnNeLAmFlRcfjZdXMVYqBoCcMAQAvD_BwE

Sadly I'd have to agree as it requires a glass replacement. You can always buy a replacment off Ebay. (What I did). Easy to replace.

This was seen on the 2019 Edge / Nautilus and traced to a software upgrade.

I'd hazard it's either for the cupholder or storage bin.

?. Have you noticed anything that you had in the 2016 that's not present in the 2021?

When Ford garage replaced my 2009 MKX unit, they said that Ford had revised the PTU. Larger gear, seals (or bearing, guy was was talking fast) and more oil (if I remember correctly). But no drain. Problem with used unit, you don't know exactly what was replaced and what was retained. If you're selling the car, no big deal, if your keeping the car, New unit would be the best choice for longevity. Cheaper too!

2007-2015 same unit. At only $557 new, I think I'd go with new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZFC8VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_MCA9C84F0KME63H8JQA1

Sorry, read your post wrong.

GREAT Ultra 2 https://youtu.be/uO8Nuj6tPy4

Think you may have glossed over the correct procedure. I did the same thing first-time I tried. Try by following these directions exactly: 1. Enter the factory-set code. 2. Press the 1•2 on the keypad within five seconds. 3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. You must enter each number within five seconds of each other. 4. For memory recall feature, enter the sixth digit 1•2 to store driver 1 settings or 3•4 to store driver 2 settings. 5. The doors will lock and then unlock to confirm that programming is complete. Example: assume your factory code is 12345 and your personal code is 11335. Then enter: 12345113351 one after the other and it should take.

I'd be willing to bet the engineers put it there thinking that it's easy to access through the access panel. Then some bean counter decided "what the hell do we need that access panel for"? asig

I'd hazard a guess, maybe when it ran out of fluid it overheated. ((?)) guessing

After watching the video, I reread the service manual and it does appear to be able to adjust the latch up and down. There's no description in the manual, but there is a statement that reads "mark the position when removing" ... . Definitely should fix the problem if your able to raise the latch slightly.

Couple of things come to mind. If its freezing where your at, there's a possibility that when your reservoir ran dry there wasn't a sufficient amount of washer antifreeze in the solution and due to the length of the run as well as being exposed to freezing temperatures, the water line froze. (I've had this happen). The test is to warm up the car, nice and warm, and if it starts working, there was water in the line. The second possibly a clogged spray nozzle. Try a thin piece of wire to push the clog out of the way. Otherwise you'll need to pull the rear hatch trim, pull the nozzle and either blow it out or replace.

Check fuse number 28 in the power distribution box (engine compartment).