enigma-2

Take the car to a GOOD auto detailing shop. They have specific professional chemicals that are designed for this.

Pulled this off the web. " If everything seems in good shape, then you may have to take the vehicle to a certified technician. Majority of the tests performed for this code are done with a wide array of diagnostics tools. Error Code P1450 means the fuel tank is unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum, and this has nothing to do with the fuel pressure sensor at the engine. The most common cause of this code is simply a defective Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor)."

Consider posting the website link. Can't advise on quality of these. But I do have a couple of questions. 1. Are they DOT certified? 2. What are you expecting to gain using these headlights over the OEM (after spending a few hundred dollars?

Known problem. The switch is a capacitive switch and they go bad. Old discussion:

Stand outside vehicle and make certain doors are locked. Then try starting. Recheck the connections to the module. I read on the F150 forum that the instructions are confusing and careful tracing the connections was the fix.

Does it sound anything like this?

Did you install the long range add-on kit? From what I read the standard kit is limited to the FOB range. Have you tried starting when standing right next to the car? As you have another remote start kit installed, is it possible that the OBD start is interfering? What exactly happens when you press the remote start sequence, (lock, unlock, lock)?

All of them. (snicker). First Ford was a 1956 Vicky.

Gold was used starting in 2007 cars up through those built on or before 01/19/2009. On that date Ford/Lincoln switched to Dark Green. If you have gold and are thinking of switching to a newer coolant, there is a specific flush procedure that MUST BE FOLLOWED. And one part of the cooling system must be changed if your engine build date was built on or before 04/01/2008. The part is the water pump inlet tube. The old style is painted on the inside and the flushing chemicals will dissolve the paint, contaminating the cooling system and exposing bare steel to the coolant.

I think I know what this is. I've experienced this in my 2009 MKX. While wife and I were on a day trip. Grew louder, so we got off the interstate and shut the car off. Restarted and it was gone. Eventually traced it to the HVAC motor. Bearings actually. But it went away and only returned once a year. Couple of years ago I pulled the blower out of the housing and checked it. Tried working some super lube into the bearings and haven't heard a chirp or rub since. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBV1JC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_usraGbAAFC4HN Originally I planned on replacing the blower motor but I haven't heard it in a couple of years.

Never seen any defector quite like this. If you can get near the car again, I'd leave a note on the windshield, telling the owner that you like the deflector and ask if he would send a text to your cell as to the brand & model.

Sendor gunked. Try this:

Would be simple enough to run a CCA test on the battery to isolate its condition.

FWIW, my local dealer told me they no longer stock any coolant other than the latest yellow. . As my 09 came with gold, they did a full flush (he told me the procedure, seemed more than a simple rinse, used two different chemicals plus water flush). Had to be certain they got all of the old coolant out as it would cause a goo (my description) to form inside the system and clog the heater core. Anyway, he said that Ford wants dealers to only carry the latest and switch over all older cars to New. Personally I'd stick to Motorcraft. No advantage to using any other brand.

I read on the (think that it was the 150 forum) that moisture in the sensor played a role in not working.

Check batteries in the key fobs (look for corrosion). Try resetting the Body Control Module by disconnecting the vehicle battery for 10 minutes.

Instead of waiting so much time removing old paint, consider an overlay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153991131552

I'd use a UV protectant on the emblem. 303 is the best. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HBJ9FbGAF2MF1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I also had the dealer do mine at 90k maintenance interval. Won't tell you what I paid (heh, heh, heh).

You're going to get a lot of responses on this. What I did years ago, go to Tirerack.com and look at the highest rated tires. Then read the reviews. Now, most of the reviews on this site are for tires with 5k or less. Not very indicative of long term. Then I went to Amazon, looked up the best of Tirerack.com, and read the reviews. These reviews covered not just new, but 50k miles. I ended up going with Bridgestone Deulers. Michelin is very quite and smooth, but only last for 20k (they use different rubber in the tread, soft for 20k the hard to reach the 40k life). I've had Michelin and they do dramatically change after 20k. As the reviews state. Nice thing about Bridgestone is consistent over their lifetime. Have Scorpion's on wife's car and their also great. Really quiet and smooth. Can't vouch for life as she doesn't put a lot of miles on car and being a Convertible, fairly lightweight. (Tires last longer on lighter vehicles).

Inasmuch as air pressure in a tire drops 1 psi for each decline of 10° F . 30 psi at 70°F will drop to 26 psi at 30°F. I'd say 32 psi would be a good compromise and still stay above the trigger alarm.

Try rotating the bulbs and reinsert. LED hot spot may be hitting point of focus off-center.

Really beautiful pup. Whats his/her name? How old? Car's nice too. (lol)

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Yup. Noticed it right after I posted and the page refreshed. (Sigh).