enigma-2

GREAT Ultra 2 https://youtu.be/uO8Nuj6tPy4

Think you may have glossed over the correct procedure. I did the same thing first-time I tried. Try by following these directions exactly: 1. Enter the factory-set code. 2. Press the 1•2 on the keypad within five seconds. 3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. You must enter each number within five seconds of each other. 4. For memory recall feature, enter the sixth digit 1•2 to store driver 1 settings or 3•4 to store driver 2 settings. 5. The doors will lock and then unlock to confirm that programming is complete. Example: assume your factory code is 12345 and your personal code is 11335. Then enter: 12345113351 one after the other and it should take.

I'd be willing to bet the engineers put it there thinking that it's easy to access through the access panel. Then some bean counter decided "what the hell do we need that access panel for"? asig

I'd hazard a guess, maybe when it ran out of fluid it overheated. ((?)) guessing

After watching the video, I reread the service manual and it does appear to be able to adjust the latch up and down. There's no description in the manual, but there is a statement that reads "mark the position when removing" ... . Definitely should fix the problem if your able to raise the latch slightly.

Couple of things come to mind. If its freezing where your at, there's a possibility that when your reservoir ran dry there wasn't a sufficient amount of washer antifreeze in the solution and due to the length of the run as well as being exposed to freezing temperatures, the water line froze. (I've had this happen). The test is to warm up the car, nice and warm, and if it starts working, there was water in the line. The second possibly a clogged spray nozzle. Try a thin piece of wire to push the clog out of the way. Otherwise you'll need to pull the rear hatch trim, pull the nozzle and either blow it out or replace.

Check fuse number 28 in the power distribution box (engine compartment).

Have you tried to lubricate the latch? Try spraying with some silicone and see if that make's any difference. (Helps mine, although I've never had anything like what your experiencing). Don't think you can raise the latch, can't on mine. Only adjustment are the adjustible bumpers at each side.

Welcome.. How's it doing in the snow?

Have you checked to see if anything is throwing a code? (Could be so many things).

What did you end up deciding on? Personally I prefer Tryco or Bosch. Tryco used to be Ford OEM for years and years, but have no idea what Ford is sourcing now. From what I've read, the 2020 has gone to a 28" (both l&r) pinch strip mount. You should be able to find this type mount on all brands. If CTS has Bosch, I'd go with them. Bosch has a reputation for long life. Just clean & treat the blades with 303 protectant a few times a year and the rubber will last 2x.

You can help your blades last (much) longer by wiping each rubber blade with a alcohol lens wipe (to clean off dirt, oils and the like) and then spray and wipe with 303 Protectant. (Its the ozone and UV sun rays that kills rubber parts and turns them hard).

Thinking of a Ring doorbell or simular. Anything that can be placed near the car, detect movement and send alarm to cell phone.

Is this the plastic line they are talking about? If so it retails for $65 with the sensor. (???) https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-tube-asy-fuel_f2gz-9d683-a.html

This is probably how they're getting in. (Have you thought about a security light? The new ones can be set to trigger an alarm next to your bed whenever someone comes onto your property near the car.)

February 1, 2021 7:20 AM To all Independent Operators and FordEtis Users: Regarding FordEtis Online Migration to Ford SERVICE Info Site Online. Dear FordEtis User, FordEtis Online and its users will be migrating to a new online Ford SERVICE Info site during 2021. The migration to the new site will take place in February 2021 and will provide Independent operators, once registered, options to purchase Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) and Technical License subscriptions to use with the Professional Technician System (PTS) site for the new Ford Mach E vehicle content. All other FordEtis vehicle content will gradually be migrated to the new site throughout the course of 2021. During the migration phase, FordEtis users will still be able to purchase and access subscriptions for FordEtis online, Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) including IDS providing a valid FordEtis/FDRS subscription has been purchased. Note: This does not affect users of the WLTP calculation tool. All WLTP calculations will continue to operate in FordEtis until further notice. Please note this is the first of a series of communications we are emailing, and in due course Ford will keep you updated on the migration to the Ford SERVICE Info website. Regards Ford Motor Company

Did you check the gasket on your gas cap?

I don't think there's an access panel on the 2015 any longer. As for "jury-rigging" a fuel vent line, no. I'd never think of doing a half-assed fix with anything related with gasoline. Think accidient. Think future owner coming back on you. Think failure and Ford voiding warranties. I would never think of doing this. Be safe and pay the piper.

This brought to mind problem I had with a rental years ago. I was in Central Wisconsin and it hit -40°f (no wind chill) that night. Everyone else had their car plugged in except me (rental). Think this wad around Rhinelander. Went out at 7am and cranked. And cranked and cranked. And cranked. Wentbin twice to let tbe started cool and me to warm. (Did I mention it was 40°F)? Probably near burnt out the starter. (rental). Finally it fired on 3 cylinders. The 4. Then 5, then after running for a couple of minutes, 6. Let it warm up completely while I sat in my motel room and shivered in front of the heater. Finally got on the road and headed to my first inspection. Reverse was like it had syrup in the tranny. Heavy on the gas and jussssst moving in reverse. Now into drive and it refused to shift out of low. I'm heading down an empty, dark, snow-covered highway, floored, doing 25 mph. Engine red lining, still no shift. So I figure either it blows or it shifts. (rental). It took about 15-20 miles to thaw out and shift. I began to think it would never shift. Just how hot does the tranny fluid have to get anyway? Unrelated, but the tires never thawed out. They took a "set" on the bottom from sitting on the ground. So, thump, thimp, thump down the highway. They were still deformed at the end of the next day when I turned the car in at Minneapolis a/p. Damn -40° is cold. I was never that cold even in northern Quebec Provence.

PCM driver weak, harness broken or pinched, corrosion in connectors, phaser broken.

Equipment group 301a ($3,795) Panoramic Vista Roof Radio: AM/FM Stereo w/Single CD/MP3/Navigation Voice-activated navigation and SD card for map and POI storage Integrated SIRIUS Travel Link 6-month pre-paid subscription 48 contiguous states Service not available in Alaska or Hawaii HID Headlamps Driver Entry Package Power Liftgate Perimeter Alarm Intelligent Access w/Push Button Start Remote Start Equipment group 302a ($5,575) HID Headlamps Driver Entry Package Power Liftgate Perimeter Alarm Intelligent Access w/Push Button Start Remote Start Adaptive Cruise Control & Collision Warning Brake support Vision Package Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) Cross traffic alert Rain Sensing Wipers LED Turn Signal Mirror Indicators Panoramic Vista Roof Radio: AM/FM Stereo w/Single CD/MP3/Navigation Voice-activated navigation and SD card for map and POI storage Integrated SIRIUS Travel Link 6-month pre-paid subscription 48 contiguous states Service not available in Alaska or Hawaii

Went through this with local dealer. Your dealer may have had some orange in stock. My dealer showed me a Ford memo stating they want all cars to go to new light green. (My dealer told me they are unable to even buy any old coolant, as its obsolete). They switched my 09 mkx with original gold over to the new stuff at last drain. Made certain they did a full chemical flush.

Almost always caused by a poor ground when aftermarket amp/sub put in. Read this; https://www.12volt-travel.com/knowledgebase/engine-noise-in-car-stereo-speakers/

Glad to see Ford stepped up and honored their commitment. What was the electrical issue?