enigma-2

Have you checked Amazon?

Yes! ... Yes, yes, yes. Put it back on. No one wants to look at your bare hoses. Oh, the mystery hiding behind the cover. The magic of not knowing. Exposed for all to see. I say not, niceonept. She has desended from a royal line of the House of Ford. Honor thy mother and cover thy loins. (Anyone else getting isolation crazies)?

If you decide to buy, check eBay. This guy has one for $700 (ouch). Could offer him $600. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224328608493

Really nice ?

Don't know your mileage, but changing plugs at 90k is also critically important. One other fluid to change is the PTU (if equipped). Lucky son, great car. My first was a piece of junk Ford that I had to work and save up for. (Don’t get much for $200, lol).

Think I'd try disconnecting the tow harness, reconnect the original connections and test. (Isolates the tow harness which can indeed by wired wrong.)

Tire comparison, difference in speedometer. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ May be something in the F150 forum about how to set values using Forscan.

Brought up before. How to remove (3rd post down)

Not familiar with 2017 edge reverse lamps. This advertised as works, would certainly be brighter. https://hidkitpros.com/shop/2007-2017-ford-edge-led-reverse-lights/

Abraham Lincoln

How you drive can affect battery charging. Short trips don't allow the current drained from starting to fully recharge the battery. Do you usually drive only a few miles when using the car?

If the dealer never done one, tell them that on gen one cars, other Ford dealers just pump it out using the same equipment as for the rear axle. 1/2 hour labor + fluid.

For reference my local Ford dealer charges approx $80 for the PTU and $60 for the rear axle. (2009 MKX)

GREAT Ultra 2 https://youtu.be/uO8Nuj6tPy4

Couple of ideas. 1. Is the SD card OEM? Cloned cards don't work properly as they are encrypted with a special key that the system can read, but prevents cloning them. 2. Other easy fix that was talked about, was a loose connector on the SD card socket.

Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Lincoln-Sync-3-Screen-Brackets-Recessed-Edge-/303580252603?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Yo, welcome, from north central Indiana.

I don't think a bad mount can cause a car to pull as the wheels are mounted independently of the engine. As the alignments don't hold, I would have the tie-rod ends checked (esp the right). If fact, I'd get a Ford "the works" oil change and tell the mechanic to pay close attention to all of the suspension components. Rear axle as well. Its something that's included for the price, but they'll pay closer attention if you have concerns.

A broken engine mount can cause this.

Weird. I think that i may be tempted to try using a clip on wireless microphone. Clip it on an area under the car, drive slowly and listen on your cellphone. Then try it on a different area. Until you find the loudest location. Isolate thd sound. Here's one suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899FRF46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Fv1bGbB5EBFJR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My dealer recommends every 35k for the PTU & 100k for the RDU. If you tow regularly at highway speeds, I'd stay with 20k, otherwise 35k should be completely safe. They replaced my PTU last year under extended warranty (no cost to me). The replacement for an 2009 MKX is a newer version.

Did you go with Motorcraft or aftermarket? Did you check the condition of the belts during the change?

The P0455:00-EC code means Missing or loose fuel cap Incorrect fuel filler cap used Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks EVAP system hose leaking Fuel tank leaking And the P115E:00 code is related to carbon deposits around the throttle plate. When these deposits accumulate more than the PCM can compensate for. Its possible that you have two separate faults.

I think everyone agrees that tap water is wrong to use your cooling system, even a thin coating of scale causes the engine to run hotter. That said, distilled isn't all that good either. The best choice is to use softened water. This page explains it best: https://blog.protectmycar.com/can-you-mix-tap-water-with-engine-coolant

I'd recommend checking for codes. My initial guess, based on the reoccurring frequency and related to heat on, is the a/c compressor is kicking on/off and doesn't have time to unload (there's liquid in the compressor). As an experiment, try pulling the fuse for the compressor and see if it still occurs.