enigma-2

... never seen so many men concerned about what their nuts look like ....

How about this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Sun-Visor-Extension-Extender-Shield-Front-Side-Window-Shade-Anti-Glare-NEW-/164493205046?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Alternator can fail on any car, any time. Cars break. All cars break. I have a 2009 MKX and still carry a full PremiumCARE extended warranty on it. (Last year they replaced the PTU). If it will help, here's how to get a Ford warranty for less. Google "Ford extended warranty " and fill in make, model info. You'll find Ford dealers online offering a warranty at hundred$ below your local dealer. (IT DOESN'T MATTER WHO YOU BUY THE WARRANTY FROM). Once you find the best price, print out the quote, call your local dealer and make an appointment with the business manager. Tell him your thinking of buying a warranty. At the meeting, he'll go through his spiel on alm the various plans offered. PremiumCARE is the best, covers everything. At the end he'll tell you his cost. (Its an opening offer). The powertrain is also worth considering, covers the entire powertrain and hundreds less. At this point you tell him you were looking online and have a quote from another Ford dealership. Hand him the printout. Then ask if he will match. • He will. Then ask if he can better the deal. He'll ask what do you mean. Tell him you would like ZERO deductible - if you have all warranty work done at their dealership. He'll run some numbers and agree. Lastly he'll need $100 for an inspection. This us normal procedure. Tell him you just had a oil change in their service department, a "The Works" service. This service includes a full inspection. He should check with their service department and see what they think. If you have your car serviced there, it shouldn't be a problem. But this not guaranteed. (Of course you will have actually needed to have had a "The Works" done recently before you do this). $40 for needed work and covers the required $100 inspection. On a previous renewal, I elected to pay the $100 and get a full inspection, just for my own curiosity. But I did stipulate that the inspection be done by the service manager (they are always the best). He was thourgh and found only one small item, not worth repairing. (Piece of mind).

Not throygh Ford (safety issue). This will work however: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clip-on-Car-Truck-Shade-Sun-Visor-Extension-Driving-Glare-Mirror-Window-/373112982361?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-2007-2015-Ford-Edge-Roof-Rack-Rail-Luggage-Carrier-Rear-Cap-LH-Driver-/254769785102?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Battery getting weak (can't really tell just using a voltage test, you MUST run a load test or test the CCA rating to get an actual measure on the battery. A weak battery can test good voltage wise, but goes down quickly as it gets under load). Other possibility is a power draw. Light left on, hatch left open, that type of thing. Was ANYTHING plugged in?

Wait. Wait. Isn't that one of those Chinese fake, engine starter rewind spring's that everyone's been talking about?

You didn't specify whether it's an Edge or MKX (different systems). Year would be helpful as well. Did you verify that the fuses are good (usually 3, possibly 4, see owners manual for which ones)? For example, on a 2010 Edge it's #4, #41 & #47. For the 2010 MKX it's #4, #17, #41 & #47. Did you verify that the "Lock Out" switch on the master window switch is set to allow all windows to open at their switches? Have you tried to open the individual windows just after the car is shut off (power delay circuit provides power from a different source than when the car in running)? Looking at the schematics it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The feed for the front passenger window is the same for the rear windows. The drivers window is separate from the rest. I'm not 100%, but at this stage I'd suspect the Master Window Switch as being at fault. It appears to be the only possible path of common failure that still could allow one window to still operate (other than the switches or motors for the other three windows having failed).

235/65-17 is the closest factory option, which is 29" high. The width seems fine, but I don't think if you can get away with 30.5 inch tires and no mods. (Chuck holes and the like). Pretty certain chains wouldn't work if your in an area that requires them. Cant find any reference that ok'ed that size. I'd suggest taking to your local service manager, see what he thinks.

Problem is, can't pull a fuse to silence her either.

$22k (Canadian) does seem a little high. Assuming an 80% exchange rate that equates to $17k US ÷ 11 years = $1,500/year. The average cost for a 2010 Ford Edge is $611/year here in the US. That's around $770/year CN. A lot of people don't keep their cars in tip-top shape (or act as their own mechanic) which allows them to get by for much less. But assuming you take the car to the dealer, have all recommended maintenance performed and still carry full coverage insurance, those numbers really aren't out of line. As for rustproofing, I've never had good luck with these services. In-fact, I actually believe that they make the situation worse. I have a 2009 MKX and zero rust. (Other than the driveshaft and suspension parts). I just run it throjgh the local car wash once a week. Washes off the salt and dirt, major cause of rusting. I also have a full Lincoln PremiumCARE extended warranty on my 09. Just good protection on an old(er) car (PTU, water pump, struts and ball joints, etc.). Nice to take it in for an oil change, have the service rep come out, slowly sit next to you and tell you you need a new PTU and various suspension parts and you say "ok, where's my loaner"? Or hit a curb and blow a tire in a downpour, call Lincoln and have a tow truck come out and change the tire. All while I sit in the car warm and dry. Or the free car washes or free loaners or the other goodies that's included.

On my MKX's DRL, they use a special transistor in the smart junction box (fuse panel) called a FET that turns the lights on and off really fast. At a 50% duty cycle, the lights are on 50% of the time, off 50% of the time. This results on having the headlights shine at a much lower light output. By using full voltage, the bulb reaches maximum light output, but for a shorter duration of time. Thus it appears dimmer. I believe that the same process is used in your case. When the lights are on, they are on at full voltage. Think of it as a light that's blinking very fast. With halagens, persistance of vision eliminates the flicker (your home lights flicker at 60 cycles per second. We don't see this because of persistence of vision. The flickering only becomes visible around 20 cycles per second.) With LEDs, I believe, but can't confirm, that they use a higher frequency to turn on and off the lights. As well as a longer duty cycle. Perhaps 70% on, 30% off to hide the flicker. It may be possible to see this by using your cell phone (the video camera can see the flickering). Maybe.

Saying that the back of the car gets dirty due to aeronautic design are you, hmm? Yeesssssss.

Bring up his profile and click on the email symbol (envelope) and email him.

No, full 12.6 volts but at 70% duty cycle. (Full brightness for 70%, off for 30%. Thats how they run my DRL on my MKX only I think it's 50% for DRL).

When turning off, don't just press, ... press and hold for a few seconds. Wait for a few seconds and it will be disabled.

Don't quote me on this, but I think I read somewhere long ago that they still operated at 100%, but at a reduced duty cycle. 70% on, 30% off or something like that. Controlled by a FET in the SJB.

The BA9 will test your alternator and charging system. If i remember correctly, you connect ot to the battery, set it it alternator mode and start the car. Should be in the instructions.

OK, normal operation. Yes, you can turn it off. Put the vehicle in Reverse. Press and hold the TRIP/RESET for 2 seconds to turn the rear park assist OFF or ON.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls Affects following Cooper brands: Big O Cooper Discount Tire Heecules Les Schwab Mastercraft Mickey Thompson Pep Boys TBC In sizes 275/65R-18 and 275/55R-20

I'll chime in (hold up the midwest side of the conversation), been running Bridgestone Duelers for last six years (replaced in 2018). Well satified, quiet enough, smooth, good in snow (2009 MKX with AWD). Wife running Scorpion's on her Sebring Convertible. Really nice, very quiet and smooth. (But the Sebring is only half the weight).

Kind of sounds like a lifter ticking. But could be several things. Old trick when I worked at local garage was to use a long, wood handled screwdriver. Put it on a place on the engine and your ear on the wood handle. Move it around and you'll quickly find exactly where the sound is emulating from.

Fuse #35 in the passenger compartment fuse box. (But it also disables the AWD & heated seats). Is it on all the time or just when you shift into reverse? I got rear-ended and knocked a sensor out of its socket. It was reading the inside of the bumper as an obstacle unlit I moved it back into its socket. Point is, if its on only when you backup, its probably one of the sensors that's failed. Easy enough to replace (or disconnect).

Hey Macbwt, it's been 5 years. How's it holding up ?

I keep wondering why Ford, with all their expensive, degreed, automotive engineers, and multimillion dollar, worldwide research facilities, never figured out that putting to air intake somewhere else would instantly add up to 24 more horsepower? Years ago I had a business associate who had worked for Chrysler. We had long discussions about automotive engineering. He was extremely knowledgeable about things like this. He talked about how they studied every possible way of squeezing every drol of horsepower out of the powertrain. Squeezing every mpg out of every drop of gas. Granted, automotive engineering has progressed tenfold since then, but so has knowledge. I guess what im ssying is, don't believe the bullshit these aftermarket companies are spreading. If they can do it, Ford would already have done it.