omar302

Van you see the edge of the glass if it is clearly laminated glass? I have not seen one myself (laminated vista roof) so I don't know if it looks like the front side windows where it is clear that they are 2 thin layers with a thinner insert between them.

I remember reading somewhere that the 2016 Edge Vista roof switched to a "dual panel" type for sound insulation. Also, there is at least 1 revision to the the part number, Tasca Parts shows FT4Z-58500A18-C as the latest & that it replaces FT4Z-58500A18-A. So make sure you get the latest revision.

Do you mean that with the LED working you don't get the hyperflashing but when it is out you do? That is interesting.

Like what @Burrcold stated, only you see it. This is how we see it:

Can they be checked without removing the rear bumper?

Titanium. Otherwise her car will still be jealous from your car! Titanium is better, and the fact that she doesn't care for speed means the 2.0L Ecoboost is a better choice, should get a little better mileage. Also, just having memory seats is enough!

Sorry to hear what happened. at least your fine. I'm also with chefduane, lower mileage is the way to go, especially with 40K difference. Then again, the lower mileage could have been abused & the higher mileage taken good care of (MacT style). May I also suggest an alternative, a 2013 MKX (example) is about the same price of the Edge Sport. Same 3.7L Engine, but with more features.

There are front and rear settings. You need to disable the front or rear depending on which your installing.

No, as the difference is minimal.

I suggest you use ForScan to disable the light out feature wich will then make LED signals flash normally without any resistors.

No. 2007-2010 don't have the MyFord Touch system.

Sorry, can't help with rodents. Where I live, most of the year the temperature is high enough that the engine compartment stays hotter than ambient and rodents or cats wouldn't try to enter.

I'll just add 1 more possible source, www.fordpimods.com. It is for Jason (jmr061) a member here in the forums.

Reading the code is must, otherwise you'll be in the dark, code readers are now available for cheap. Also, did you check the coolant level?

No. Dealer has to do it.

What about non peak gains? You know, the same that is advertised by tuners. Like at 2000 RPM, if torque was ~200lb-ft using 87 would the gain still be ~2.5%? Or different? In my MKX, with the 3.7, I feel a noticeable difference in throttle tip in on the highway between 87 & 91.

Here in our region a fire extinguisher is required by law. Once a colleague had a Nissan Tida (Versa in the US), and on one hot summer day when returning from lunch and parking it, smoke started to come out from under the car towards the front. No one dared to open the hood & people started using the fire extinguishers from work to try & out it out. After emptying about 20 extinguishers, the car still burning. Had to wait for a fire truck to put out it in a minute.

If it is coming from the rear seatbacks, try reclining them a bit to put some load on the springs. It works on mine (though it is a 2011).

That would make me question if they really did change the oil in your car & not having only charged you it.

You can find the A8 SD Card for around $50 on eBay. It is only the maps data, the NAV application remains the same.

I'd highly recommend you clean the rails & grease them as per Mact's video. This will at least reduce the stress on them. I also think that parking the MKX under the summer sun was a factor on the failure.

Never heard of this before! As stated above, the pump is not driven by the belt, why would it have to be replaced with the belt?

Is there any confirmation that the oil filled in the factory is not something specific for the break in period? Because if that is the case, then changing it early would actually be of more harm then not changing it.

I already got a new OEM nozzle. The spray pattern is good, only it doesn't get enough fluid at the bottom driver side of the windshield. I also noticed the part number is different, 2007-10 & 2011-14, though they look the same. That might explain the different experiences. 2011: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-washer-nozzle-bt4z17603a 2010: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-windshield-hood-nozzle-7t4z17603a

You don't need the code. When you select the BCM module, there 2 choices, one with "As Built" & one without. Select the one without & you'll have settings for selecting DRL.