omar302

Anyone can help with service information on the 2011-2015 MKX HID headlights? How do they work, how to change the bulbs, how to aim them... Etc. Thanks in advance.

9011 HIR can be easily modded to fit perfectly in place of a 9005 bulb with noticeable improvement in lighting.

In a 2011, pulling the MFS halfway yields flash-to-pass, high beams remain on until MFS is released. In this case, with halogen headlights, I believe the high beams will remain on with engine off until the MFS is released. If the MFS is pulled all they way until an detent is reached, then high beams are switched on/off, in this case the high beams should turn off with engine off & headlamp delay is off or passed its duration. If your MFS is bad, then it would be the first scenario above. I don't recall reading any similar problems. Also, this woudn't be the case if you have factory HID because they would only flash for ~1 second in flash-to-pass mode with the headlight switch off. To test for above, you can just disconnect the MFS (remove it), this should release the Flash-to-pass function it is stuck.

Mileage. Though as per the manual it's supposed to be mileage & some sort of calculation that takes into account driving conditions. But it is definitely not a sensor.

I would imagine other scenarios that suggest not doing this mod. For example, simply parking the vehicle after dropping off passengers, or if you loose your key in a trip while the car is running, then your stuck.

I'd also suggest the battery, even if replaced recently it could have a defect or the corrosion on the terminals or loose connectors. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and see if it helps. Also, you should use ForScan (with a compatible adapter) as it will also show trouble codes from all/most other modules, unlike a regular scanner that only scans for PCM codes (check engine light).

Dealer can do it of course, but what gtyates stated is the DIY way. It is really simple & cheap.

Then they would risk exposing design errors in their car, like the PTU, door locks or gear shift knob.

35w is like stock, from what I read, there is no need to go 55w. As for the DRL, I'd suggest changing them to the turn signals so to keep the HID for normal lighting. Or you can disable the DRL completely & use a kit from DriveBright for DRL function.

Happen to have the part number of what they changed? Might help one of us in the future if they face something similar.

The running average is for the distance to empty calculation, as far as I thought I knew, while the one you reset is to as far as you go since your last reset.

I thought the transmission cooler was with the a/c condenser.

Just for the sake explaining the issue to you as I am not trying to argue with Waldo or Akirby, they bring very valid points, the issue that is specific to Ford's MyFord Touch (and MyLinconln Touch) in short is as follows: Adding an SD Card only will NOT enable navigation. Ford, and/or through dealers, will state that if a car left the factory without navigation, then it CAN NOT be enabled afterwards. There is nothing a dealer can do or sell to enable it (except sell you another car that is factory equipped) Someone (or more) was able to find out how to modify the APIM (as built data) and thus with a license (someone does sell them online) or a hack you can enable navigation in a MyFord Touch equipped vehicle (that Ford tells is not possible & still does not offer it). To use navigation, you'll need a maps SD Memory Card.

By the way, Toyota (at least in region, and maybe Nissan, don't remember) specify to increase the tire pressures for continuous high speed trips (~120+ Km/h). Here is also an article from TireRack on the subject, which I believe IWRBB is kind of applying but going lower since his speeds & loads are less.

An SEL with MyFord Touch would also have that menu. By they way, though you probably already know it, the first fuel economy screen, the one that has a moving bar for current fuel economy and has an average economy, this average is reset by holding the "Ok" button for a few seconds & is not related to the 2nd screen bars which have the time frame option (5, 10, 30)

The FOB programming should not reset with a battery disconnect. Something went wrong. I would check all the fuses & also try another battery disconnect, for a longer period than the first time.

There is a 3.10 version, but only to be installed through a dealer. Though there are versions circulating online, some might remove features from your car. Note that MFT version is different from the MAPs version. If you want the latest maps data, then you'll need the A8 SD Card.

Delete your phone from the car, it should delete everything related to your phone. Then re-add it.

A8 maps SD Cards have been available for some time now. Usually eBay is a cheap good source. Unless you meant an update after A8.

There is no IAC on newer vehicles since the throttle bodies changed to drive by wire systems. What might help is to clean the throttle body & check the canister purge valve.

Actually, no I did not. It wasn't available in my region and the dealer said it will be possible to add it later on. And I still don't have it.

44 psi is referring to IWRBB's F-150, not his Edge. Also, vehicles in in stock or storage sometimes have their tires' pressure increased to avoid or reduce damage due to non movement, to prevent flat spots in the tires.

Yes, I understand and agree with most of it, but in this specific case, the software is there & they don't give you any option to buy it unless you change your whole car.

It is probably taken out, as i don't recall such a part is available on my 2011 MKX with Tow Package.

The software is already there, regardless if it was enabled or not from the factory. It is simply a method of enabling it, which Ford (or at least many dealers), whether intentionally or not, convinced some customers that it can be done in the early days of MyFord Touch, but then simply refused to make it an option. By the way, there are also methods to download & copy the maps, which would be a better way than your suggestion to break into someone's car and steal their SD card causing real loss to innocent people.