omar302

Just to be sure, you tried the method linked my posted but it did not work? Also, with the actuator removed, did you try to move the linkage manually? Did the temperature change?

Check this thread & post# 3 in it, might be of help

Add only add to WWWPerfA_ZN0W that with the 2011's IOLM you reset it to any percentage in 10's, so you can select whatever suits you. Each 10% would represent 1000 miles. So if you want a reminder after 4000 miles, reset it to 40%.

When you have the air set on dash vents (towards the face) do both sides don't get heat or only 1 side? Could be a blend door actuator.

What did you set the temperature at? The defrost air will be at a level depending on what you set it at.

There is no problem leaving an IA key fob in the vehicle & locking/unlocking via the keypad. The only security risk is if the intruder finds were the fob is & presses the unlock key which is the same risk if the found the key of a regular ignition vehicle.

He was referring to the 0W-20 Mobile1, not the 5W-20.

I understand your point. This metal sound when starting the engine I used to here it when I first started an engine after an oil change, but those were older cars were also the oil pressure light would also remain on for 1-2 seconds after the 1st start post an oil/filter change. The idea of multi-viscosity oils, as far as I learned, was to cover such scenarios, for a 5W-20 oil, at cold engine startups, cold oil would act as an oil with "5" viscosity grade, then when the oil warms up it will become a "20" level.

The 2K difference matches the difference between a FWD and an AWD. Could it have been a mistake & they showed you an invoice of a FWD then an AWD?

Did you raise the volume on your phone? When connected & on a call on Bluetooth, press the volume up on the phone itself & increase the volume.

They are LEDs, I don't think they are replaceable, need to remove the whole sill to remove the sill plates from behind.

A regular OBDII scanner (at least most of them) would not read codes set by modules other than the PCM (a check engine light). Use ForScan with a compatible adapter to read the codes set the other modules. Also, from my experience with my MKX, the ABS/Trac. Control light sometimes comes on for no apparent reason while disconnecting/connecting the battery or resetting the trouble codes, reseting the codes again or a battery disconnect would clear it immediately or a even an engine/ignition restart does, reading the code while it is lit reveals some sort of miscommunication error (which I think is due to the power being cut-off).

Make sure you get the right one for your Edge, the difference is whether your Edge has the factory tow package or not. Otherwise, the fans are the same for 2011-2014 Edges. Also, I think Dorman now has the fan modules separate, so if that is what's failing, maybe you don't need to replace the whole assembly.

No. Maybe it can be done, but it is not an option that a dealer can dot it.

Anyone here with 200k+ miles got a badge from Ford? https://twitter.com/Ford/status/910149175995781120

Mac, did you try to glue the disc on the old remote first? It worked for me. What is strange is that your unlock button, seems you use it a lot, why not just pull the door handle & utilize the smart keyless entry? On my fob, the remote start button failed, and it is the one I press the most (double click to remote start).

One more "plug", those in need of an APIM replacement could consider upgrading to Sync3, the price difference is surely worth it. Maybe Jason could make us a special forums member prices .

Jason, who is a member here has a website, http://www.fordpimods.com/navigation-mft.html, that sells used APIM for adding NAV with the programming required to suit your vehicle for $650/-. Seems to be a much better deal than your dealer.

I would expect you have 1 blend door, not 100% sure. But, does the driver side get hot when you turn the heat on? If yes, the then the blend door is working (changing temp), I'd then say your low on Freon. I faced a similar issue where the driver side was warmer than the passenger side & it was due to low Freon, apparently it causes the evaporator to cool unevenly hence one side colder than the other.

Is the A/C button pressed (illuminated)? Then yes, the compressor will run even if it's on HI. This is usually to remove humidity from the air. The actuator when stuck (malfunctioning) could be stuck at any location.

Non taken. Just like what WWWPerfA_ZN0W stated, Ford recommends 10W-30 here. I know it is much colder there, but doesn't the engine still run hot? At its operating temperature? Wouldn't it overheat without coolant or cooling fans? The engine's temperature is still very hot even in cold climates.

There are 2 blend doors & actuators to control temperature for each side. So if one side is not changing temperature, it would be from the actuator on that side. Edit: WWWPerfA_ZN0W, just saw your reply.

Just go with Ford's recommendation, 5w-20 blend. Fully synthetic is definitely better, but not required. But whatever they told you about fully synthetic I believe is non-sense. I actually remember that the reason fully synthetic oil wasn't recommended for older engine was due to its ability to clean out build ups around worn engine seals and hence causing leaks.

I'd say they are covered, but don't go to the dealer asking for a replacement, rather complain about the oil in the intake system.