enigma-2

Believe it was put out years ago in a memo to their dealers about using 10W-40. Dealer told me about it. If there was an engine failure of any kind, the dealer was required to verify if the customer was using the correct weight oil.

There's an access panel in the liftgate cover located in the at cargo area. You can pry it off (might be easier using a key) reach inside and pull the release. Btw, I would have lowered the back seats to unload the groceries. Too much risk of back sprain lifting them over the seats. (But then again, I'm lazy).

Check to see that the name of your phone (settings, phone info) is the same as being reported in Sync. If different, try changing the name of your phone (in phone settings) to match what Sync is showing.

Check to see that the name of your phone (settings, phone info) is the same as being reported in Sync. If different, try changing the name of your phone (in phone settings) to match what Sync is showing.

It was 11° here yesterday. Rear defroster went on as soon as the car was started. 09 mkx, 100k miles. No one seems to know exactly what's causes the windows to brake (akirbyism). My 'guess' is it's mechanical stress (in a bind).

You may read that there have been a lot PTU failures. My local dealer told me (right or wrong) they it was their opinion that the PTU fails when the seal starts leaking. This allows the fluid level to drop and remaining fluid gets too hot and turns to goo. I think it would be a good idea to run the car throught your local dealer for your next oil change and ask them to take a close look at the PTU seal (make certain it's not leaking). Leaking or not, it will eventually go bad. The PTU is designed to last the life of the car (which is defined as the life of the warranty.)

If I remember correctly I paid $40 at local Ford dealership. A lot of others in the forum have found their local dealers will not do this. If so, call a local professional transmission shop.

Really nice looking car. If I might make a recommendation, if you can't verify any past service history, I would recommend having the transmission serviced, the PTU flushed and the cooling system flushed.

Went the Advance Auto to get a replacement rear wiper blade. Had the clerk look up the number (they live for that) and he grabbed the last one on the rack. Paid and he asked if I would like for them to put it on. Said sure, he popped the old one off and tried to get the new one on. Pressed and pressed and it refused to go on. Finally I tried and noticed that it was the wrong blade (post that clips onto the arm was about twice as thick as oem). So in the process, he distorted the clip on the arm so that the center stud no longer fastened (the blade stayed in place by the spring pressure). So I had to replace the arm. Got a new arm and thought that I'd pop off the arm, no sweat. If you have never done this, it does not come off. Used a wheel puller; nada. If anyone ever needs to remove this arm, the only way to get it off is to use a Dremnel with a cutoff blade. I made two cuts on opposite sides all the way to the metal stud. The back of the arm popped off, but the damn arm with over half the back part cut off still refused to come off. Used a gear puller and finally it came free.

Installing my radar detector I bought a harness and wired it into the back of my mirror. It's switched with the ignition and is on the time delay (until door opens).

$90 seems a little high for a straight pump-out and refil, but well worth it if they really do a flush.

Try a local transmission specialty shop. Probably better equipped to do this anyway. Btw, it's not that Ford is telling their dealers not to do it, there's no official procedure for it and it's completely up to the dealer whether or not to do it. My guess is, once they change the fluid and 'should' there be a PTU problem, you could go back and claim they caused it. My local dealer does it and even recommends it at ~30k intervals.

I don't want to weight in on the weight debate but one factor to be aware of is, if you do not use the oil recommended by Ford or Lincoln and have an engine failure, for any reason, they have the right to void your warranty. (And have done so in the past).

"Whered"? Whered you come up with that word? lol

I understand, just feel that a weak battety would cause problems above freezing. Be interesting to find out what dealer finds

Top tier gas link to retailers http://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/ Figure that top tier, non-Ethanol gas is about $0.05 a gallon more than the cheap stuff, and at say 15 mpg, breaks down to $0.03 a mile (give or take, it's miniscule no matter how you look at it).

I find it difficult to believe that four7bird's battery us shot. The car's only a year old. Possible I suppose, but I would lean towards checking for water in the gas forming an ice block (starts ok above freezing, does not start below freezing) or reprogramming the pcm (not setting the fuel system rich enough to start after cold soak).

Water in the gas tank is another possibility. Good idea to use a product called "heat" once in late fall to prevent the water in the gas tank from freezing. Although I've never heard of the occurring at 20°. Usually happens when the temp drop to 10°f or lower. But 20°will freeze water given enough time. (Also more prevalent if using gas with Ethanol as the Ethanol draws water to it.)

Does your vehicle have the stop-start feature on your eco? (Car shuts off when you come to a stop, restarts when you take your foot off the brake.) If so, may be that feature that's causing the shut off. Oil light come on when engine switch is in run and engine not running, so that be a normal indication.

I'll attach a pdf of the Ford 07 towing guide. 07RVTTguideApr08.pdf

If it is a water pump, coolant will leak into the engine diluting the oil. When coolant mixes with oil, it turns it a light brown milky. Check the oil to see if it's changed color.

Besides the limitations discussed above, there is also the frontal area considerations, to keep in mind. Ford states that the 2007 Ford Edge has a maximum limitation of 25 sq. ft. (Adding a transmission cooler is necessay as well as going with a Class 3 hitch).

.... Until the fuse blows....

Here's an interesting (technical) read on how both types of oil breakdown. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/475/oil-breakdown Synthetic is better for engines with turbo's (better all the way around which is why they cost so much more). However, the engine was carefully tested with the blend and Ford recommends it. Is it worth the extra cost to you?

I only use non-Ethanol gas, top-tier gas. Here's a site where you can look up non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. http://www.pure-gas.org/