enigma-2

Another YouTube video with a different fix.

Bet your happy! If your like most of us, you will learn to love your Edge more and more every day. What did you modify with Forscan?

Chris, I sympathize with you completely. From a personal standpoint I have 100% confidence in my car. The moment that drops below complete confidence, I start looking for answers. There is nothing more important to a man than his family. A dad will sacrifice anything, everything, for his wife and especially his kids; and their safety is more important than anything else. There are so many dangers while driving a car, the last thing a father needs is to not feel his car is 10p% safe. That said, I'm certain your dealer will find the problem and restore your trust.

Was reading about testing done there that found some of the cans were essentially worthless while the RX cough up to 90-95%. Site: http://themustangsource.com/forums/f726/oil-catch-can-comparison-test-results-531966/ I would imagine that the location of the catch pan is important as they need to be emptied periodically.

Has anyone with the EcoBoost engine has any of the problems discussed in the video, or does it take more time for the intake valves to get coated? (According to the video, it's only a problem with the EcoBoost engine where the injector bypasses the intake valve).

Here's a manufacturer that makes RX kits. http://www.rxperformanceproducts.com

Believe their sold on Amazon as a complete kit.

Ive noticed mine being off by a few meters at times while driving, always seems to self-correct. Assumed this occured when it switching satellites and was recalculating. By being off by several km would indicate it was only locked on to 2 or 3 satellites. Could always stop and get into the test mode and check to see what satellites the system was actually locking on to.

I wear American Optical Pilot Aviator Sunglasses (non-polarized glass version). Was thinking, the instrument cover is a textured, matt finish, might make a difference if one were to use conditioner and turn it shinny. Not certain as to what my detailer uses, but it seems to last and not shinny.

I happened to remember this post while we were on a day trip this last Saturday and made a special point to look for glare. Have a 2009 MKZ and have to say, I have no glare no matter what angle the sun took to the car. Do see a weak reflection of the top of the instrument cluster, but it's not really objectionable. Don't know what difference there is between the Edge and MKX; or the 09 and the 08 or 07, but they seem to have gotten it right in the 09.

Noticed a strange map behavior this weekend. On my 09 mkx, I have three views that I can choose for the nap. One with "north up", one with "car up" and one that's "3D" (sort if). Anyway, wife notice that we were driving on the wrong road, map was showing we were on the next road over from the actual road. For the heck of it, I switched from the "car up" view to the "north up" and ... bingo ... fixed! Switched back to "car up" and we were magically transported back to the other road. Weird. Anyway, others have reported problems with the navigation display, if you are having this type of problem, try switching the view and see if it self-corrects.

Youtube.com video of what the problem is and how to prevent it on EcoBoost engines.

Isn't that the 2020 Ford prototype where the body is made from transparent aluminum, stronger than helium and glows in the dark? Heard the engine is made out of plastic and powered by a fusion reactor. Wonder if Ford will able to get the door switches to work by then?

Sorry about reviving such an old thread. My pass rear turn signal bulb burnt out and I thought I replace both (as when one me goes, the other is also probably as worn.) Reason I'm posting is, both sockets looked like new, no evidence of burning or overheating. Bulb is 3057K. (09 MKX).

Yup, makes one wonder what the 2018 palladium trim will include.

You would think that the system would default to something similar to a "non-active" system when a fault occurs. Making the car un-drivable when a fault occurs is completely unacceptable as every electronic component WILL (eventually) fail. .

Can you disable it by pulling fuse 71?

Could also add in the additional cost of larger tires.

Perhaps their sold at your local Ford dealer?

Escort live. Sync's to certain Escort radar detectors.

Reason I keep the screen in view is I run a program coupled to my radar detector. When radar is posted on the cloud, it shows the map on the screen where the radar was detected (red within the last 10 minutes, yellow 10-20 minutes, green 20-30 minutes). Also shows the frequency (helps determine type of radar) and distant in feet to radar source. Comes in handy at times.

I was reading in another forum where someone had a leak in his A-Piller. He popped off the covers and found that the drain for the sunroof was disconnected; allowing water to run down the piller into the floor well. He reattached it and all good again.

Try a reset. Don't think it will work but shouldn't hurt. Pull fuse 29 and wait 1/2 hour. If radio comes on when you reconnect, let is go for several minutes (can turn down the sound if too loud, but don't change channels, etc. until the reboot is complete). If this doesn't work try a full reset. Make sure the car is on, in Park Press the Phone Button to enter the PHONE MENU Scroll repeatedly until SYSTEM SETTINGS appears in the radio display Press OK to enter the SYSTEM SETTINGS MENU Scroll repeatedly until ADVANCED appears in the radio display. Press OK Scroll repeatedly until MASTER RESET appears in the radio display Press OK. SYNC will ask you to confirm the reset Press OK to confirm. The radio display will read ALL RESET SYNC will take you back to the ADVANCED SETTINGS MENU

Ok, fuse #39 is to the rear window defrost grid. PS (believe this is the keep alive connection)

Surmising: the reason the ACM works after the car has run is, it's switched over the the acc connection and continues to operate for the duration of the accessory delay. The problem seems to be getting power through the start/run feed (which is a separate feed). Unfortunately I don't have a 2012 service manual, mine only goes up to 2010. In the 2010, power comes through the Smart Junction Box, fuse #28, then through a GY-VT wire to the ACM (audio control modular or radio for short). So if this still holds for your 2012, ir fault lies either in the SJB (of fuse panel for short) as there's electronics in here which controls this circuit, the wire to the radio (not likely) or the radio itself. Troubleshooting ideas: using an inexpensive 2 volt tester, pull the radio and ampifiler fuses and test the fuse socket (with the switch in the on or run, position.) If the SJB *is* feeding power, it's probably the radio (ACM actually, but you must replace the entire radio to fix). If there is *no power* then it's the SJB fault and one possible fix would be to rewire to a different circuit that's powered only when the car is on (on in the run position). Involves cutting the wire near the SJB and using a 12 volt quick connector, linking to a different conductor (wire). BTW, on the 2010, there are three fuses to the ACM, #28, operate in run, #41 operate in acc & #39 which I have no ida as to what it does.