enigma-2

Hey thanks. Interesting that gels loose their power below 32°. Really looks like it comes down to costs vs. longevity return.

This whole thing sounds a little fishy to me. (Sorry, couldn't resist.) You try shoving a crevis tool up there?

Try ebay. Just checked and prices start at $150 for a complete, used mirror assy.

Is "bedding the pads" the same as "burnishing"? (A few hard stops from 45 mph?)

Would it be possible to move the seat back further and therefore drive with your legs in a more straight forward position? Or possibly lower the seat causing the leg to contact the side of the consul rather than riding up and over? (Just thinking out loud.)

Perhaps you could avoid blocking the sensor's by using an elevated bike rack? Another advantage is these will parallelogram out to allow to hatch to open while the bikes are still attached for easy access to the cargo space. Here's one example of what I'm talking about (click on the video to see how it works): http://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-softride-element-parallelogram-hitch-bike-racks-2015-toyota-highlander-sr26248.aspx

I get fast starts at -5° using an older 650 CCA. (09 MKX, fully loaded, battery getting red diode on Solar BA-7, charge system gets green diode.) Wonder if the extra cost of an 850 CCA is worth it. Can you make an estimate of how much longer than an AGM would outlast a lead acid?

Nice! What do you think about Escort Live? Kind of interesting to see a radar hit pop up from another driver from another part of the driving area, isn't it? What did you go with for the mount? (I'm running the Max and decided to stay with the standard mount. It looks like you went with the Blend mount).

Laser jammer's are illegal in all states. A good radar detector is worth considering, still legal in most states.

Look at the right-hand haft shaft seal. Others have reported that oil was leaking at the PTU, collecting on the heat shield and dripping down on the exhaust manifold.

According to the package, the operating range is 7-15 volts, 100-1200 CCA.

Haven't taken mine in yet (no gas smell, no leaks). My local dealer told me it's usually one day (they will give loaner if it goes over) for a FWD, and up to three days for AWD. Reason for up to three days, if tank is found leaking, they impound car until new tank is received and installed. They have FWD tanks in stock and have to order AWD tanks. Said they didn't expect to find a faulty AWD tank. Different I guess.

If you search for speakers for a 2013 edge on Amazon, you get several 6x8 that pops up. Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032FOKAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1455320478&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2013+ford+edge+speaker Probably was too deep.

I should mention that I had developed a stutter last year, took it in for normal service, and they found an injector was clogged (or partly clogged). Had them clean the injectors, they ran a cleaner through each injector, seemed to work, no stutter afterwards. Guess I should run a cleaner more often than once a year. Service agent thought it had more to do where I had bought my gas - had been travelling and stopped at a couple or small stations. May had gotten some old Ethanol. As I had bought used, figured it was just because the previous owner had not used any cleaner while he owned it.

I've had good success using Techron once a year.

Sooooo, after watching your video, I decided to break down and buy one. First test on wifie poo's car and yellow LED. Battery needs a charge. (Oh come now, she just drove home and it was fully charged). It was showing 11.78 volts.... and 477 CCA. Next morning (yesterday), it didn't have enough to start. Found one of the map lights had been left on. Tested it tonight after she got home an 15.1 volts 736 CCA and green LED. (650 CCA battery). So I tested my battery in the MKX. Starts every time, strong, looks clean, no problems, right. 14.71 volts.... Got a red LED and 559 cca (650 CCA battery). Battery works great, passed a Ford garage test, and still got a red LED. Must be a defective cell, so I guess I'll be buying a new battery. (Snort) Both cars passed charging system tests. (Great way to see what's going on without a hassle). Thanks for posting this, it really is a great way to (really) test batteries.

Sorry for your loss. I know what a good lawn/garden tractor means to a man. I have a Simplicity. A "good" Deere (NOT the one's you find at the big box stores), over a Cub. (Not the tractor it used to be). No contest. Take a second look at Simplicity. Some nice features as well.

Yea, lawn mower engines can do this just from mowing on a grade (don't really have pressurized journals until you get into lawn tractor sized engines).

Based my response on the car "worked fine on the way home". Based on that, I assumed the service tech did the testing to ensure it was fixed. Did they check the throttle body position sensor? Believe that could cause this.

Mac, I believe that the op stated they had changed out the transmission sensors as part of the 4-week repair.

My error. On my Lincoln, I believe that they are separate lights. I've never noticed any shutter. Thanks for the explanation.

He didn't state that the oil pressure light had come on. My guess is the engine had a journal blocked by crud.

Oh now, now, now. I replaced my cabin air filter last month and, I swear, I'm getting 2 miles more per gallon.

09 and 10 model years are both relatively trouble free (taken in context). I have an 09 MKX and love it. Given the choices between the two you are giving, I would go with the 2010. It has small upgrades over the 09 and (more importantly), has navigation. No big deal if you don't use it, but a big deal if you decide you wish you had it better. I'm all for haggling over price, I got them to come down a grand (about what I wxpected), and a "slight" improvement on an extended warranty. Haggle, but see if you can get them to throw in an extended warranty.

Do you know if they adjusted the high beams down, or the low beams up?