enigma-2

According to the owners manual, the low beam bulb is a H11 and the high beam uses a 9005 bulb. A H11 bulb is rated at 55 watts, or 55 watts ÷ 12 volts = 4.6 Amps. Both bulbs are fused at 15 Amps. (Fuse #23). 9005 is rated at 65 watts. 65 watts ÷ 12 volts = 5.4 Amps. Each bulb is fused at 10 Amps. (Fuse #7 & #8). Using the Drive Bright bulbs I posted above, they are rated at 45 watts. (As an example). So yes, the wiring would handle the LED bulbs. (However high intensity bulbs would almost certainly require a relay and additional direct wiring).

Hi Anil, what was the outcome of the accident?

As @DILLARD000 said, plus check SPARK PLUGS, need to be changed at 90k miles. If there's any question, change all fluids, brake, pwr steering, PTU, COOLANT and TRANSMISSION. (Caps are .out important). Less important is the cabin air filter (behind glove box) and under seat filters (if you have heated/cooled seats. The filters in the 08 are actually filters. In late 09 and later these were changed to open grills). Motorcraft cabin air filter Under seat filter

You may find this site useful. https://www.instructables.com/How-To-Convert-Your-Headlight-Bulbs-to-LED/ I seen these new LED types online and they seem to be a real breakthrough. And Drive Bright has an excellent reputation. https://drivebright.com/shop/led-headlight-replacement-kit-new/

Look like these? https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/96723-04250684.html

Anyone know where the camera is located? (Any year).

Thought the OEM were branded as Motorcraft? Were yours branded Bosch?

There are several aftermarket on Ebay under $50 (free shipping, but I don't know if that includes Canada. Most will ship to Canada and someone from Quebec province left +feedback). There's two selling Motorcraft, but price much higher.

You look for any screws they may have added in the '22 ?

Any other dealers in your area? (Sounds like your dealer is short handed on technicians).

Weird little problem. I put new Trico Platinum wiper blades on the car. 20" passenger and 26" driver. Really nice blades. Now this was back in May. Anyway, noticed last week during the blizzard that the drivers blade made a thunk when it reached the up end of travel and left a bunch of streaks when returning to the down position. Checked it out by switching the blades and the passenger blade now did the same thing. Turns out that (somehow) the drivers wiper arm has a larger J-HOOK than the passenger. (Passenger arm fits both blades perfectly). The passenger hook measures 3/4"× 1/2" and the drivers hook measures 1-5/16"× 3/4". (I read that the smaller is called a J-3 & the larger is called a J-4. Stands for millimeters, smaller is 3 mm, larger hook is 4 mm). Never noticed any difference in all the years I've owned the car. Both arms look like the aged the same. I'm sure I would have noticed it before in all the years I've owned the car. I can't figure out how it could have gotten changed? (Or when). Called Trico technical services and they said that, basically I was nuts. Can't possibly happen. Both are the same. I hooked the drivers up wrong. She said the larger hook was ONLY used on trucks and large motor homes, so it could not have been used on my car. I reminded the lady that wiper arms are designed vehicle specific, that it fits perfectly, and she promptly hung up. Great customer service. All I wanted was a plastic adapter to insert into the blade to adapt to the larger hook. Anyway anyone else ever run across this? The arm on the drivers side with the larger J4 hook has the exact same profile as the size and shape of the J3 arm. (The didn't use two different size arms in the gen-1 cars did they)? Got a new arm for the drivers side coming from Ebay so should fix it.

Opps, right, sorry, factory hitch, dealer put on the 7-pin and trailer brake before delivery.

When I get myself into some adventure in mechanics where I have no idea where I'm going, I've found that its a good idea to stop and take pictures at every step of disassembly. After all, pix are free with modern cell phones, and you can always erase when done. (But when trying to remember which way the dookie hooked into the Frédéric, pictures are gold. Take lots of pictures).

Speaking only about the actual headlight assembly, I'd say yes. I looked on Ebay at a headlight assembly that fits 2015-2018 Ford Edge Sport. Under fitment it states that it fits the SE, SEL, SPORT & TITANIUM trim packages. Here's the comparison between the two. (Mind you, one's halogen and one's high intensity). SPORT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255741588436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GWkHt6bWTa2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY SEL: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175271511639?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=l9EvB50oTA6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY However, if you were talking about the trim pieces that surround the headlight assemblies, i didn't look this up.

Left front, speed sensor or reluctor ring. The sensor reading from one wheel (the left front wheel in this case), is differing from that of the other three wheels beyond a predefined limit while the vehicle is travelling in a straight line. Sets these codes. I'd lean towards a wiring problem as it happens when in a left turn (suspension geometry may be pulling on the sensor wiring, causing it to open or short).

There an easy way to disable start/stop. LET THE CAR DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. Basically, turn on the lights with the car off and run the battety down. After a couple of start cycles with a weak battety, the BCM will detect a weak battery and disable the auto start/stop. It will stay disabled until you run the battety reset procedure. (Or could substitute a weak battery for 2-3 start cycles, let the BCM recognize a weak battety then put the good one back in. Here's a good video on the procedure by a top Ford tech. (Probably the best on YouTube. Subscribe. Great videos).

Kind of sounds like a ABS sensor is dropping out at lower speeds. As you have already changed the sensors on all four wheels, did you check the tone ring on your front wheels? (Front because it only happens when turning). Check for cracks, broke teeth and some other physical damage. Also look to see how much brake dust has accumulated on the ring. Possibly the ring distorts when a left turn has initiated? One other possibility is corrosion on the speed sensor connector(s). Making a weak signal.

This is how the factory installed my 7-pin on my 2009 MKX.

Kind of looks like an APIM failure. First check to see if there are any codes stored. Then I'd try a camera reset. 1. Disconnect the (+) terminal on your battery. 2. Turn the headlights on to drain the leftover energy in the cars electrical system. 3. Reconnect the battery. If this doesn't work, try going to ford.com/support/#/categories and check to see if there is an APIM update for your car. If there is, follow the instructions at the site to upgrade with the latest software. If these fail, may need to replace the APIM.

Thought NTK was the OE supplier in 09?

I spoke too soon. There's a seller on Ebay that has a kit that reportedly fits a 2013 Ford Edge Sport power steering pump. Sells for $25 (US). Ships worldwide. Free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323624669321?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nunTiyyQTLq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here in the states Amazon sells an aftermarket unit for $150 (US). (Didn't check the UK site). Re: Power Steering Pump For Ford Edge V6 & Lincoln MKX 2011 2012 2013 2014 - BuyAutoParts 86-03127AN New https://a.co/d/5Ur6lcs Motorcraft price is around $370 US. Checked for pump rebuild kits, they run around $20 (US), but nothing for 2013 Ford Edge.

Try pressing the AUX button then select an audio source: SAT1, SAT2 or SAT3. When you select one if these, say SAT1, it allows you to pick 5 channels and assign each one to one of the 5 push button keys. Pressing SAT2 allow you to assign 5 different channels to these same keys. Same for SAT3. As you currently don't have a SirusXM subscription, you will probably be only able to receive their preview channel.

Think @lildisco may have hit the point. @Perblue, are you driving short trips in your daily drive?

Ever check your charging voltage? I'd begin to suspect a loose or corroded connection somewhere in the charging system. (Grounds have been notorious for low charge rates).