macbwt Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 Got rid of the corrosive orange and went with the Peak 10X. Why? Because Ford put out documentation to flush it out and replace it with yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sage Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 I have read a lot about changing it out on the 2.0, but could not find anything on the 2.7. Does that apply to the 2.7 as well, as I have the orange looking in my ST. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 At least on the 2015 2.7, you do have to use the same method: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nKNbBf3zhikn00ZJUb3Z1xqQCiTkR28t/view?usp=sharing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handfiler Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) I bought a kit similar to this in preparation for the supercharger installation on my Mustang. Vacuum Cooling System Filler Kit I'm glad I did as it made the refill process of the cooling and intercooler systems a breeze. It's nice knowing your system will be 100% filled and purged of all air in minutes without having to start the vehicle. ? Edited October 4, 2020 by handfiler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby99 Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 20 hours ago, macbwt said: Got rid of the corrosive orange and went with the Peak 10X. Why? Because Ford put out documentation to flush it out and replace it with yellow. Would you mind sharing the exact documentation from Ford or where it can be found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd92 Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) The orange is NOT corrosive. Ford does NOT recommend replacing the orange with yellow early. The yellow has double the service life of the the orange, which is why the orange was replaced with the yellow. There is NO need to run out and flush the orange out of the vehicle. Yellow/Orange Coolant Backwards Compatibility Edited October 4, 2020 by todd92 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 45 minutes ago, todd92 said: The orange is NOT corrosive. Ford does NOT recommend replacing the orange with yellow early. The yellow has double the service life of the the orange, which is why the orange was replaced with the yellow. There is NO need to run out and flush the orange out of the vehicle. Yellow/Orange Coolant Backwards Compatibility That's also my understanding. Same discussed here: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 hi all, newbie here. I just bought a 2024 Edge, 30k miles, and I want to do a coolant change even though ford doesn't recommend it this early. I have seen in the past where cylinder head gaskets (other make and model) have such small coolant passage holes that they plug up with corrosion over time. I also know about the head gasket issue with the earlier 2.0...the ones that had the slot between the cylinders. And their fix was to replace the groove with tiny hole drilled between the cylinders. Well this seems to me a potential to plug with corrosion over time too just like the head gasket I mentioned above. So at any rate, for my piecs of mind, its every 30k miles for the coolant hange for me... to ward off what I feel could be an issue down the road. my question to you guys, first, does the 2024 have these small holes beween the cylinders? Second, any high mileage 2.0s (with the tiny holes) had any known issues with clogging? I specifically bought the antifreeze from Ford so there is no question I got the right type. Other than the need to "vacuum fill" the coolant system to "burp it", is there anything else I need to be made aware of? I'm old school and quite amazed how cars have changed to the point you really need to know what your are doing before starting work or repair on them. Glad I found this site! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Concerning the 2.0L engine, sometime during in 2019-2020, Ford changed over from the wide slot to the small, cross-drilled holes. Because this change increased the amount of solid metal on the block deck between cyl 2 & 3, it provided a much larger surface for the head gasket to seal against. The new design has proven to be a permanent fix & I can't recall a single case of gasket failure. As far as changing the coolant, if it were me. I'd get a copy of the Ford Service Manual for 2024 and read the procedure. $60 on Ebay, cheap insurance that will pay dividends for years. https://ebay.us/m/sfs60U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 your right... the gasket issue should be resolved, but that is a small hole that they drilled. And I feel that any crap or corrosion could fill that hole and block the flow later in life. that is why I decided to do the coolant change every 30k miles instead of 60k. That link you provided is the Ford Edge owners manual.... I have the same... its online for free. I do see some 2024 edge shop manuals in CD form on ebay for about $10 (that dont sound right) and one nearly $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 The shop manuals on eBay are mostly bootleg copies and some of them are good versions that have indexing and searchable. Post a link to the ones you're looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 1004ron, I dont plan on buying a copy of the owners manual. links below are for free online copies. the shop service manual is another beast I would expect $500 for that. But if you look on ebay and type in 2024 ford edge shop manual, some $9.90 versions appear. I would not trust those. I havent looks for haynes or clymer yet. Car is still in warranty so i dont plan on repairing it for a while. I simply wanted to know if to change the coolant , you would simply drain it, and vacuum fill it. no sensors, no resets, no hidden surprises , etc. ?? Not doing the "flush" until 60k miles. here is an interactive copy: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=9611&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&moidRef=G2154962&Uid=G2169782&ProcUid=G2168697&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web page 346 on this pdf copy https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2024_Ford_Edge_Owners_Manual_version_1_om_EN-US.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 I made no mention of the owners manual - I too wouldn't purchase the owners manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 I've always just done drain and refills every 30,000 miles on my Edges. My 2011 just hit 200,000 on the original water pump and my 2022 just had its first drain and refill. I also just did drain and refills on the PTU, RDU and trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 sorry 1004ron, it was enigma-2's link. he mentioned a service manual on ebay but the link he had was an Ebay owner's manual for $60. fishx65....did you vacuum fill the coolant system to get the air out or burp it as the technician called it? I have the vacuum kit, only used it 1 time on a focus. I need to get more comfortable using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 I've never vacuum filled any of my vehicles when I just do a drain and refill. I just drain the radiator, refill it and then check the level after the first few drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 If you only drain the radiator, how do you drain all of the coolant with the thermostat closed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 with some of today's engines, there is real possiblility of an air pocket remaining when refilled with coolant. Air that is trapped and can cause an isolated overheat issue. Vacuum refill ensures no air pocket remains. It was recommended to me to do this on a 2006 Focus, which is why I bought the tool. With a 2024 Edge, I don't want to take any chances ($$$$). But yes, up until now all my vehicles were old enough to drain and simply pour in new coolant. BTW, I dont think they worry about the thermostat. All the coolant on the engine side should drain. Maybe a little left over above the thermostat possibly. But I think now the thermostats might have a small bypass opening built in , therfore it should drain above the thermostat too. The only left over coolant after draining might be some in the heater core and the PTU cooler if equipped. Make sense to y'all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 I do the bulk fill the old way and the last part I do under vacuum, with all my vehicles regardless whether a procedure calls for vacuum filling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 1004ron.... are you saying you fill most of it up, then pull a vacuum to get the "burp", then vacuum fill the last little bit? I was wondering if it could be done this way. Seems it would pull the vacuum much faster since there is not much air there anyway. My son needs to do his car too, I think we will tackle his and mine at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted 7 hours ago Report Share Posted 7 hours ago (edited) help, this coolant change is quickly becoming worth the $$ the dealership wanted to do it for me. First, I did not know how far to turn the drain plug, I only turned it 1/2 turn and it pops out. no problem except it took forever to push it back in (had to overcome the oring) far enough for the thread to grip. So now I am trying to pull a vacuum on it. It is the compressed air type and it pulls a good vacuum while off the car. It appears i have good seals around the adapters on the coolant tank with a nice snug fit. But after 5-10 minutes, the vacuum gage still shows no vacuum. So I decided to manually fill it to eliminate as much air as possible with fluid and I have no leaks. This is an attempt to reduce the amount of air volumn that has to be evacuated. I try to pull a vacuum again. Still no vacuum buildup. Is there something on this car that is allowing air to be sucked in somewhere ? I think I will go ahead and crank it to try to circulate it some and not let it get too warm. and then try pulling another vacuum. Ok update: I found the issue. Inside the coolan tank filler neck is a passage way for over flow to spill out underneath the coolan tank. This passage way goes right thru the tank and exits underneath. The 40mm adapter plug seems to cover this passage, but I assume the plug is flexing under vacuum and drawing air in (through the underside of the tank and up thru the filler neck). So I placed tape over the hole under the tank to plug it and immediately got vacuum. So fingers cross, I hope it wont have any air pockets. Time for cranking it up and get the coolant circulating. Edited 6 hours ago by fh4ever updated 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 6 hours ago Report Share Posted 6 hours ago (edited) Because of the throat of the expansion tank design the conical tapered rubber stoppers don't work - you need to try a few of the other plain types that will seal on the top edge of the opening. . Edited 5 hours ago by 1004ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted 5 hours ago Report Share Posted 5 hours ago yep, the plain type adapter is what i used. It covers the rectangular hole, even has a flange on the top that rest against the top of the hole. but the best I can figure is, the rubber adpater is not supported at the rectangular hole, and the vacuum pulls it inward sucking air right thru the rectangular hole. I was thinking the conical adapter might seal at the botton of the neck... below the rectangle hole. But I did not try that. Instead, I put tape on the bottom of the tank where that hole exits and the vacuum pulled the tape tight sealing the bottom. I wish I knew about this hole so that I could have fill it with the vacuum first thing. But when I encountered issues and filled the tank manually to reduce volumn and then pulled vacuum, it pulled out some of the coolant. I then used the vacuum to finish filling and the tank was completely full. I had to remove some coolant to get it back to the required level. Just to be sure, I pulled a second vacuum , the fluid came up to the top but not spill over, and releasing the vacuum slowly, the coolant level went back to the max position. So I would say it is completed and air pockets were eliminated. Will know for sure when it is driven to operating temp and coolant level rechecked. 1004RON...does that sound good to you? this is only the second time I used this vacuum tool, the first time on this car. It seems simple enough and I think the next time will be much easier. I did make a tool to remove (turn) the drain valve on the radiator. It makes it much easier to loosen. next time I wont take it all the way off...that was a pain getting it back in the hole. the o-ring had to compress enough to slide in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 4 hours ago Report Share Posted 4 hours ago Yes, I've done it both ways, bulk of the volume just gravity filled and then the rest of the way with the vacuum device, and complete fill with the vacuum device and this method sometimes takes two steps drawing vacuum. Attached pictures showing how I drain the system - I use a leaf blower or compressed air on the expansion tank and it gets more out - that's why the drain hose is restrained in the bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 3 hours ago Report Share Posted 3 hours ago Same topic threads merged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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