omar302

2016 Edge Battery cover. The GMC Acadia has it inside.

I think one of the issues causing short life with the Edge's battery is that they are still in the engine compartment with a flimsy heat shield! Friends who owned vehicles with batteries in the trunk or under rear seat easily got longer life. Guess with how new engines and how aerodynamic they are, heat is kept more in the engine compartment than before. Other makes I've seen at least had better shields around the battery.

I can't really answer your question, but I know you should also consider the wheel width in the comparison. Check this calculator if it helps: https://www.willtheyfit.com/ or https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

Please do update what happens. These are my numbers, though mine is a 2016 and with Sync2 (MyFord Touch). I noticed the IPC strategy & calibration are the same as yours, shouldn't this mean they have the same firmware/software? When you get the low fuel yellow box warning, do you also get the DTE in the box? Mine doesn't though I noticed newer models do. APIM - Accessory Protocol Interface Module Bus: HSCAN Part number: ES7T-14D212-FA (latest known: ES7T-14D212-FA) Strategy : EM5T-14D205-AD ACM - Audio Control Module Bus: HSCAN3 Part number: FT4T-19C107-JD (latest known: FT4T-19C107-JF) Strategy : FT4T-14D099-JD Calibration: FT4T-14D100-JA IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module Bus: HSCAN3 Part number: GT4T-10849-DB (latest known: GT4T-10849-DC) Strategy : GT4T-14C026-CB Calibration: GT4T-14C088-CB

BXT-65 batteries, as far as I know, are NOT an AGM betteries. Found the below video maybe helpful: Also I remember @macbwt had a detailed video on the charging system, linked below.

The "number of days" parameter, AFAIK, was implemented in the 2015+ Edge, not on earlier models. The only BMS reset on the 2014 & earlier models is what was mentioned before that can be done with a scan tool or the 8 hour time. What I see from both your cases is that both of you have AGM batteries and I think I read somewhere that AGM batteries charge "slower" than regular batteries. Do both of you drive short trips regularly? Maybe that is one of the causes..

I think the online subscription is to also keep track of who added keys to which vehicles, otherwise anyone with those tools can program new keys to customer vehicles with no control. At least this way there is some sort of traceability.

I'll just throw this in, maybe it will help. This is from memory, so it might not be 100% correct. With the 2011+ Edge/MKX, there is a battery charge "monitor" system, the system works by measuring the actual drain from or charge to the battery and estimating the balance charge. There is a sensor connected to one the cables (probably negative) connected to the batter (kind of like a ring around it) So, if you charge the battery by directly connecting to the + & - terminals, the monitoring system will not detect this charge and will still have the "old" estimate, hence even if you had charged the battery fully the monitoring system will still think it is low and every time you use the car it would give you that message. You have to reset the battery monitoring system to get it to work correctly. This can be done by a proper OBD tool, or keeping the vehicle untouched ATLEAST 8 hours with no lights, doors, radio or even the keyless fob nearby. Found a post on an F-150 forum, the system is called Battery Management System (BMS).

As far as I know, with remote start, the frequencies are 902 or 868. Non remote start might be 315 or 433 (if they are similar to older vehicles). Do both keys look the same and have the same number of buttons? Found this post in ForScan with the same DTC. Also attached is the 2015 DTC chart if it helps. B1218 is mentioned there: Locks, Latches and Entry Systems.pdf

Sorry, can't help. Although on my previous 2011 MKX, RDS did not work (on IPC & main display) when the ACM ABD was set to my region to show all radio frequencies. Setting ACM tuner region to US would make RDS show on both screens but would lose even frequencies. With the 2016 Edge the ACM tuner region doesn't affect RDS. On the other hand, I did notice in some pictures that 2017+ models show distance to Empty in the yellow box low fuel warning (as did my 2011), but my 2016 doesn't. Hence I was convinced the firmware is different. What ForScan have you done recently? Maybe it did have an effect.

Yes, there are 2 frequencies. 902MHz & 868MHz if I remember correctly. Do both remotes look the same & have the same number of buttons? If so, the FCC numbers should match if they are of the same frequency. I don't if is is possible for a remote with a different frequency is possible to still start a vehicle from the back up slot, though it makes sense since you can still use it in the slot even without a battery.

Switch batteries between the working remote & the new one and see what happens.

This part? p/n W714972-S300

I don't think anyone tried dropping another engine. I wouldn't expect it to be easy or cheap. Even the transmission is different. But since your failure happened just after Powertrain warranty, reach out to Ford and they might still help. You can argue that such a major failure definitely started way before warranty expired and refer to the TSB. Just be nice as I remember reading that Ford does help in such cases when failure comes just after warranty.

It is availavle seperately. Check this link. It is P/N: 4S4Z-13N019-AA

Don't recall anyone had such an issue. Did it rain lately or had it washed? Could it be the rear washer fluid leaking inside? Also, make sure the 2 plugs at the bottom of the tailgate are still there and are still flexible as they have a "flap" on one side to allow water to go out.

No. Didn't get it yet. I think I need to update the Firmware on my IPC as it seems 2017/2018 models are different. Try to "Master Reset" the Sync3 and see if it helps. Does the RDS info still show in Sync3? if not, maybe it is turned off in the radio settings. (Sync2 does have a RDS On/Off setting, not sure of Sync3).

I didn't try it. But I don't think it will work plug & play because there won't be power supply for the parking light. You'll have to run a wire for 12v parking light.

I believe your problem is coming from the fact that the parking light is the same turn signal bulb only with 5 volts. In other words, for the bulb to function as a turn signal it is supplied with 12 volts and when parking light is required it is supplied with 5 volts. So with parking light and turn signal on, it is switching from 5v to 12v and so on which is not playing nice with LED bulb. In this post I had disabled the 5V parking light function (position light). Might want to try it. Also, could you please post a comparison between stock and LED signals? Preferable right & left at the same time? I have tried several LED signal bulbs but they were always noticably less bright than the stock bulb.

I found these offered on AliExpress for the 2015-2020 Edge. Very useful as a while back my Son dropped a Lego piece that went inside the rear heat ducts (under the passenger/driver seats) because the openings are large. Had to remove the duct to get it out because I just new I'll start to hear it rattle in there. Since then I had a "net" covering those ducts, but just saw these and they seem like a better idea. Just sharing. I didn't try them myself.

Yes, the rear drive unit is different on the 2019+ models. You could ask to hear other vehicles for your self to be sure. Make sure to find a model outside the build date range specified. Then you decide if it is similar or not.

Welcome to the Forums. Most members here have the "North America" model, which has some differences compared to the European Edge. One of them has to do with the collision braking feature. We only get the collision "Warning" and "Brake Pre-charge", on paper ours do not "brake automatically". This is for the 2015-2018 models, 2019+ is different. For your project: First: You can get VIN numbers by browsing for vehicles on Cars.com or US eBay. This example is a 2017 with ACC. Second: Your buttons should still work, the difference is only the markings on them. Third: for ACC, you also should have a "Radar Sensor" that in 2015-2018 models is in the lower bumper on the left (behind the blank piece). See below:

Did you check for any codes in the PCM? Sometimes there are codes even if the Check Engine Light is not on.

@Edge5280 posted pictures of his Edge Sport with black 21" wheels in his album here.

Just a correction, these wouldn't fit 2015+ model as they are different. They would probably also fit the 2011-2015 Lincoln MKX since it was built on the same platform as the 2011-2014 Edge and shared many components.