enigma-2

Haven't used it yet, but from what I've read (and seen in youtube videos), everyone seems to like it. Only one negative comment was where someone put it on in the sun (a big no-no). Some reported getting three months, some said they were still good at six months.

I have a 2009 MKX and the dealer found the PTU starting to leak during an oil change. Had the tech pull it apart and replace the seal. (Under extended warranty).

Ok, mily 09 is different. My radio is powered by two sources, power in run, power in delay and powered thru a "start" wire (not certain as to what it does). Mine is not powered unless car in run or on time delay. Sorry for the confusion.

This might be what your looking for. https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/products/12v-power-accessory-kit

See if this video gives you the proper actions to initiate a diagnostics test:

Continuing an old thread, I found an excellent video from Dallas Paint Correction and Detailing, showing an easy and really fast way to detail a very dirty engine bay. Note, the video is done in real time and runs around 15 minutes. Quoted in tbe video, Scott uses Super Clean aerosol foam as the cleaner/degreaser, a Worx WG520, 600 cfm blower to blow out the leaves and loose dirt and to dry, a Worx Hydro Shot washer with distilled water to rinse, and either Miguires hyper dressing, or Stoner Trim Shine for the final bling.

Below is a video where FordTechMakuloco was tracing down a complaint concerning drivers door lock failure and window not working. He finally tracked it down about 2/3 the way through and may be coom on to your problem. (At least easy to check).

Try putting the hvac module into diagnostics mode and see what codes are displayed. Hold down the power and defrost buttons for a few seconds and then press the power button. The system will go into diagnostics mode. If it finishes with the code "88 88" it means it passed. It's possible that the system will work after this as it "re-zeros" the actuator(s). Here's an excellent video explaining why it's failing (compares the old style in gen 1 with later style in gen 2+) .

Couple of years ago (or so) I asked my dealer the same question about blend. Basically they told me the same thing, that it was the best compromise for a modern engine. I had used synthetic in my last car with no problems, and have none with the blend in my current MKX. Agree with the others, good quality 5W20 blend. Best of both worlds and save some money. Stick with Motorcraft filters (rated top on Tomstheoilguy.com). As your in Canada, don't you use an engine heater?

Salesmen. Ha. Mine told me the Vista Moonroof only popped up, did not slide open. Said none of them did that any more.

I looked up service manual and there is only one actuator controlling the blend door(s). Wasn't able to determine if there were still two separate doors connected by linkage or a single larger door. If two doors makes sense that one side was warm if the linkage broke. (If just one large door both sides would be the same, no matter what the actuator was doing).

Did anyone else has access to the fobs or car during your absence? Even if you pull out the battery, the doors will remain locked. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems, but I doubt it would allow the doors to unlock. (But if it can, your right that would be a real problem).

Consider a remanufactured one from NAPA. Works like new but much better price.

Was reading in a post by WWWPerfA_ZNOW where he mentioned a way to Wax your car in a few minutes. I did some research on this stuff and it looks incredible. Get your car wet, spritz a mix of CarPro HydrO2 and water (delute 1:7) and immediately rinse it off. Done.

Daytrip today, running 75-100 mph and was getting 19-20 mpg. Normal city driving 14-15 mpg.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182724491447?

Personally it sounds to me like the AGC is failing, but it's also.possible that the fault lies somewhere else. You could also try a master reset. (Removing the fuse only forces the radio to reboit. Nothing in the EPROM is erased. A Master Reset clears the EPROM inside the radio. (You will lose all your settings, so you may wish to jot down certain items like favorite destinations (navigation radios), channel numbers, etc.). Vehicle must be in Park and running, not in Accessory mode. On your phone, choose Bluetooth from the Settings menu, then select SYNC and delete it. On the SYNC screen, press the Phone button. The SYNC screen will display either: Connecting No phone paired or connected Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Return displays on the screen. Press OK. Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Advanced displays on the screen. Press OK. Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Master Reset displays on the screen. Press OK. A Confirmation message displays on the screen. Press OK. After completing a master reset you will need to pair your phone to SYNC.

Try a ACU diagnostics test. With the radio turned on and switched to either AM or FM, press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6. The radio will enter the speaker walk around test. (Be prepared for a loud tone coming from one of the speakers. If you wait a few seconds, it will stop and it will switch to the next speaker). At any time in tbe speaker test, and before it finishes, enter the diagnostics mode. If you do NOT have nsvigstion, press Preset button 1: the on-demand Self-Test. This button runs the on-demand self-test. Pressing the MENU DOWN button allows scrolling of any DTCs found during the test while in this menu. Preset button 2 = Display Continuous DTCs. This button enables viewing of any continuous DTCs that have been logged. Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of any DTCs while in this menu. While continuous DTCs are being displayed, pressing the EJECT button will clear all present DTCs. Preset button 3 = Signal Strength Test. This button displays the signal strength. Preset button 4 = Software Version Display. This button displays the audio unit software version. Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of all audio subsystem software versions while in this menu. Preset button 5 = Display Test. This test illuminates all the display segments for 5 seconds, then turns all segments off. Preset button 6 = Configuration Status. This button enables audio unit configuration status. Pressing the MENU button displays the ACM part number while in this menu. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, turn the audio unit off or turn the key OFF. If the concern remains and the fault is not detected, GO to Symptom Chart - Audio System to continue diagnostics. If you DO have navigation, press the end test button on the screen and select the test from the available menu. Ruming this test may reveal if any defect codes have been triggered and stored in the ACU (radio).

Take a look at all your fuses in the power distribution panel (in the engine compartment) and see if anything looks fried - especially fuse #26. Is it throwing any codes? Was reading in a different forum where a person had a simular problem and the Ford garage traced it to cam sensor's.

From Scotton of Dallas Paint Correction and Detailing. (This one really surprised me).

From Scott of Dallas Paint Correction & Detailing.

Youtube video by Scott of Dallas Paint Correction & Detailing.

Haven't used this, but good brand, looks interesting

One of the biggest problems I've faced in the heat of summer was evaporation of the water out of a battery. The following video by EricTheCarGuy details tracking down leakage current across the top of a battery, adding water and checking the connections. Good basic stuff (except I would use the Solar BA-5 or BA-7 as the loaf tester).

Yup. $150 is the standard price for map update and Gracenotes. Best map program I've used is Google Maps. (And it's free). Used it in Seattle couple of weeks ago, kept updating on traffic flow, accidents, etc. Don't care for thd Garmin. Have a drawer with several used Garmins. Don't want another device hanging on my windshield if I don't need it. So nice having the big screen in the dash with a map tracking your progress. I've found Here Maps (Ford/Lincoln) is usually a couple if years behind. You can go to there website and file an update for a particular road. I did this in the past and they updated one road in the next update and ignored one other. (Might be in the current. Not convinced to buy hus yet).