enigma-2

LED bulbs are garbage. OEM manufacturers don't use them, they use individual LEDS positioned in a specific reflectors. LED bulbs have been reported to be not as bright as standard Halagen's. The Best bulbs in a Halagen reflector are Phillips VisionPlus bulbs. Here's what I used in my MKX. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNMMZ8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oGT3zbBMFWB8A

Hook up a obd scanner and pull the codes.

Had that happen on my MKX. Went back to normal. Took it my dealer and they replaced the power brake booster.

This? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19229-as-you-think-of-my-grill-two-options/?fromsearch=1

Your confusing Sirus Satallite Radio with Ford "Sync Services". They are two different services. I subcribe to Sirus Travel Link (but use a weather app more than Sirus). Sirus traffic doesn't have any value for rural areas so no good subscribing, for me. When I do need traffic info, I use Google Maps. Real-time info in urban areas (and free).

Not Sync, Sync Services. No new subscriptions now and will be stopped on Aug 1st 2018. We want to let you know about this important change to your account. Ford has made the important decision to start phasing out SYNC® Services. Starting July 1st, 2017, the ability to purchase or renew a paid SYNC Services subscription will no longer be available. However, those with an active or complimentary subscription will still be able to use all the features of SYNC Services until their subscription expires or August 1st, 2018, whichever comes first. Regardless of subscription status, SYNC Services will no longer be available starting August 1st, 2018. We'd like to thank you for being a part of the SYNC Services experience that we've brought to Ford customers over the years. Although SYNC Services is being phased out, owners can still take advantage of the many features available through SYNC, such as AppLink® for SYNC and SYNC 3, and other services offered by SiriusXM® Traffic and Travel Link®. If you aren't already aware of these features, click here to see what options are available for your specific vehicle. For additional updates and to manage your subscription, please visit the SYNC Services page on the Owner website. We appreciate you being a member of the Ford family and look forward to continuing to improve your experience!

I'm waiting for the tweeting to start.

It's been my experience that the most likely cause is a dirty windshield. The new blades have sharp, knife edge while to old ones were blunt. The new edge is hitting bug guts residue, tree sap, grease, oil and all kinds of street stuff embedded in the glass pores. Try a good cleaning, here's what I do. :First hose off the windshield to remove the loose dirt. :Then I use either Citris Orange Degreaser or SuperClean degreaser. Rinse with water or glass cleaner. :Next go over the glass with a clay bar. Use plain water as a lubricant. A clay bar will remove contaminants at the microscopic level. Using water, just rub the clay bar over the glass. Any time the clay "grabs", it's found a thin layer of embedded grease or gunk. Just keep going over this area lightly until the clay slides freely. In place of water as a lubricant, can use glass cleaner. :now dry with a clean microfiber towel. :Now, using a Wax applicator, apply a thin coating of Carbona Wax to the windshield. (100 times better than RainX. Lasts 3 to 6 months). :Finally buff the windshield with a clean, microfiber towel. Nothing will stick to the windshield, bug guts will wash right off. If you want your wiper blades to last longer than 6 months, spray them with 303 Aerospace Protectant. (UV will kill blades in 6 months). .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142486541901

Read somewhere (forget where) that there is a BCM setting the dealer can change to disable the timeout so that the 12 volt power points will stay on all the time. Don't know if this works for the USBs however. You could consider adding you own always-on USB ports however. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNGCDVS/ref .

The instrument cluster should not remain on. This may be unrelated to the problem, but I've had an occasion or two where I shut the car off, pulled the key, opened the door and the radio was still on. Put the key back in the ignition, pulled it out and the radio went off. Fixed it by squirting some lubricant into the ignition cylinder. (Figured it was a pin sticking). As far as the battery, one of the new type of pulse chargers can reset the battery to allow it to take a full charge again. (Short trips can cause the plates to crystallize). Here's an example of one of the best: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NSL2zbFH6E2Y0

Also controlled by the PCM through the ECT ( basically a thermistor) to lean out or enrich the mixture if it's running cool or hot.

Check to shielding under the car. May have lost a push pin fastener.

You might find this video interesting. FordTechMakuloco also states they did dyno testing and found they actually decrease H/P with reusable filters.

New icons!!!

Insurance. Falls under uninsured motorest policy. Probably have to pay the deductible unless you know who did it (then his insurance pays).

I found a better product that lasts a lot longer. Clean your windshield with water, then I use SuperClean degreaser, follow with clay bay (I use water as a lubricant), dry and finish Carbona wax. Buff with a microfiber towel. Lasts and lasts, nothing sticks to it. Bugs wash right off.

Cargo depth with all rows up: 34.5″ on the floor, 27″ deep at the narrowest point (seat back 20.5″ above floor level) Cargo depth with the second row down: 60″ Hatch dimensions: 31″ tall, 32″ to 48″ wide https://4pdrive.wordpress.com/category/vehicle-reviews/ About 3/4 down the page.

This is the correct one for 2.0l 2016. Interesting how they claim 70% increase over OEM (as if Ford is incapable of making a filter that allows more air through. They way they do this is to not filter the fine particles around 100 micron and smaller. Those that will scour the cylinder walls). http://afepower.com/afe-power-30-10215-magnum-flow-pro-5r-air-filter FWIT here's the OEM version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5THUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3Lr2zbCJ95YDF

You check the fuse?

Several aftermarket cameras have a separate wire you cut to reverse the image.

You can rin a comparison between the two sizes with this calculator: https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator

If your concerned that it's not your battery and may be a parasitic draw, drawing down the battery when the car is off, try the following troubleshooting procedure. To test for a parasitic draw, disconnect the positive lead of the battery and attach a milliamp meter in series between the disconnected battery lead and the positive terminal. This will show the amount of curent being drawn by the car when shut off. It should be a couple hundred milliamps. (Varies between vehicles). If it's more, there's a parasitic draw occurring. The way to isolate which circuit is at fault, is to pull each fuse, one at a time, and check the VOM to see if the draw has stopped. When it stops, that circuit is suspect. (Note, go through all fuses when you do this to make certain you found all draws). Once you have the circuit, you will need a schematic of your cars electrical system, especially for that circuit. You will then need to start unplugging various connectors in the circuit until the draw stops. Once you isolate the component, you can address it's repair or replacment. Note that this type of troubleshooting will not interfere with a warranty or extended warranty. You can buy a cheap multimeter (called a VOM or Volt-Ohm-Milliamp) meter on Ebay for less that $10. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310953818136

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?