enigma-2

If your talking about the blowout around 13 minutes, notice he's putting the air tube all the way into the cylinder and then blowing it out. The air and any debris is being ejected out of the cylinder, not into it. Also notice that he did a blowout around 10 minutes while the plug was still in. I don't see any appreciable dirt being added into the cylinder after he removed the plug.

This the one I use with my Android. ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GhTZzbR0P8B0F Can't modify the car's internal settings (need laptop for that), but you can monitor hundreds of values.

Another route that one could follow in refilling a cooling system would be the use of a premixed coolant. Such as Peak Global Lifetime 50/50. Meets Ford ESE-M97B44-A and Ford WSS-M97B51-A1 standards and doesn't change OEM coolant color. The water used in the mix is deionized water, which is better than distilled and reverse osmosis water. Just pout it in and your done. Easy/peasy. No matter what's used, the warranties on the coolants always require a full drain and flush. I would also think that if a change in coolant is performed, the flush should also include a neutralizer as well. The problem with flushing a coolant system usually figuring out how to drain tbe entire system. The closed thermostat presents a formidable blockage in completely draining the engine. In the past I've used a Prestone flush kit where you install a garden hose tee connector in the 3/4" heater hose. It flushed the system using the garden hose by back-flushing the engine and heater core.

According to the owners manual the lines in the 2014 are fixed (pg 201, 202). You might be thinking of a later year.

Is that mic also part of the noise cancellation system?

Honestly no, probably have to pop the inside hatch cover. Perhaps someone who's done this will chime in.

N. Indiana, I just replaced a set of Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia's 245/50R20 with a new set. Very satisfied with them. Reasonably quiet even when well worn. Quiet, smooth, energy efficient. Definitely not cheap. Local dealer price matched to Tirerack.Com + got Ford rebate for credit AND Bridgestone rebate, and interest free for one year.

One other thing I would check is to check the camera connector for any corrosion, particularly around the ground wire pin. (Simple, no-cost option before laying out any $$$).

I have an existing extended warranty which is due to expire in October. Been working with two on-line dealers on obtaining a new extended warranty to cover for another 3 years. Just been informed that most (not all) warranties will be going up as of October 5th. No one seems to know how much, but last time the average for the Edge/MKX platform was ~$200. Ford has announced that none of the plans will be going down. Anyway I printed out the best offer (Lombard Ford) & took it to my local dealer. He shot me a price and then I sprung the on-line price on him. Instantly matched. And then he bettered it by offering a $0/deductible if I bring it to their service department for service (as I do anyway). Plan I'm going to go with is the $0/deductible ($100/deductible at other dealers), BASE CARE for 3 years/36,000 miles. (Thinking tranny sensors, water pump, PTU & axle seals and parts known to fail around this time/milage). Has car scheduled to inspection on Friday. Just FYI for anyone else sitting on the fence over whether to buy an extended warranty or not. In a few day it may cost $hundreds more. BTW, you can charge it to the Ford Credit Card and take a year to pay it off with no interest!!! (Can apply for a credit card right at the service desk).

Good to know. In addition, you can run a test on the gen 1 EATC module by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons together, the within 2 seconds, press the AUTO button. The heat/cool display will show 4 bars indicating the test mode has been enetted and then any codes will be displayed. 88 88 indicates the test passed. When done, it's important to exit the test mode by pressing the DEFROST button or BLUE temp down button (others may work as well).

Adding to above, I remember when the dealer changed the coolant in my car (they changed from one color to another, don't recall which), they told me they had to use a neutralizer after the drain and before they used the new fluid.

This Ford brochure coverin the AWD might clear things up ad to how it works. Emailing Ford's All-Wheel Drive 2009.pdf

Pictures - as soon as possible.

They found my seal leaking late last year, I optioned to just have new seals put in. 8k so far and no leaks. Believe if it starts leaking again, I'll have a new unit installed. (Current extended warranty expires in late October, taking it in Fri for inspection on new three-year extended warranty. I am expecting it to fail).

I would have to disagree, there are tens of millions of proud Americans all around us. All walks of life, all colors and both sexes. (Although I was just in Seattle and it appears that's there is a third one blossoming .... ahem). Anyway, I would be proud to shake your hand, one vet to another. I proudly served as a Marine and spent a lovely year in Vietnam Nam. Which branch did you serve in? See any action in Kuwait or Afghanistan?

Forget the exact URL, was years ago. Mobile One filter was best (most $$$), Motorcraft & Delco were 2nd best. If I find it again, I'll post it here. The stuff you put in your gas tank was probably HEET. Gasoline tends to separate allowing water the separate out (also comes from condensation). What HEET Does is to mix with the water and change it's specific gravity to that of gasoline, and allows the water to be drawn into the engine along with the gas. Water left in the tank will freeze at 32°F or 0°C. Getting the water out will prevent a tank or gas line from freezing up. If you car is factory equipped with block heater (thought Canadian units were) the connection location is in the owners nanual. (At least I think it is).

Found this interesting. Amazing how complex this simple timing system has become. In addition to the Knock system described, I also found the description of the Eco factory "catch can" system enlightening. Interesting how the system catches blowby in the PVC system, even to the point of blocking the blowby under certain circumstances. http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/category/ecoboost/ http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/how-the-knock-detection-system-works-in-the-ecoboost/ .

Sounds good. Go with the Motorcraft filter and forget the Fram (filter were tested on Bobstheoilguy.com, Motorcraft scored excellent, Fram was low). When I was traveling on business in Canada years sgo, everyone seemed to be plugging in their cars overnight. (Also was common in Dakota's and Wisconsin). Any chance od using a block heater?

Understand the problem better now, thanks. I wonder if one of the programs that Android Auto is using, has taken control of the system and causing it to lock up. Just guessing, but if your open to suggestions, is Android Ato been upgraded to the latest version? How about all of the programs (apps) that it uses? Can you regain control of the system by pressing the pressing the Tachometer icon in the bottom right corner of the touchscreen? Are you able to regain control by unlocking AA from Sync 3? (Settings icon on the features bar > Android Auto Preferences icon > select phone and disable).

Sorry, I seem to have stuck on your first sentence and missed the intent of your problem. After rereading your posts are you saying that your connected by USB and are attempting to run Android Auto through bluetooth? I'm confused as to how your connecting. .

All good questions, I believe the answers your looking for are on this site. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary Oil in terms oil forum, filters in the filters forum. More there to read than you have time for. ? Happy hunting and don't forget to post here what you found. .

Thinking that a bad USB cable would fool the ACU into thinking nothing was connected. On my MKX if I don't have a USB cable connected, the controls are grayed out.

Yup. That's me, a "big government individual" that favors automotive safety such as: standards in lighting, tires, glazing, seating, steering, gas tanks, rollover protection, controls and displays, transmission controls, defroster performance, braking systems, rearview and side mirtor (remember how much anger there was over requiring side mirrors?), hood latch requirements, anti-theft systems, brake fluids, power operated windows and moonroof's, accelerator controls, warning devices, ESC systems, tire pressure monitoring, Occupant protection in interior impact, head restraints for passenger vehicles, impact protection for the driver from the steering control systems, steering control rearward displacement systems, door locks (faulty switches don't apply, sadly), seat belts and belt anchors, child restraint systems, side impact protection, exterior protection requirements, roof crush resistance, windshield zone intrusion, rear impact protection, child restraint anchorage systems, ejection mitigation, fuel system integrity, flammability of interior materials, interior trunk release, and dozens of other "big government" requirements governing such things as school bus safety in several areas and other types of over-the-road vehicles. Seat belts, remember how much anger there was over putting those completely unnecessary, extra cost, p.i.t.a. belts that only got in the way and did not serve any purpose at all? So what if they saved lives, we didn't need them, did we? We drove for decades without them. "Big government" interference again. BTW, tire pressure monitoring came from Europe, not the US. Only required in US when it was clear that it could save lives. When "big government" did a study on this, they determined that it would cost the consumer a whopping $8.63 (net) per car (much of the cost is returned by keeping tires at or near the proper pressure would allow the driver to drive linger on the same tires and fuel savings. 2001 dollars). Of the two alternates required, it would probably have been better had "big government" required alternative one, which required the tire to incorporate a pump to refill the tire when it got low (they had this when the FMVSS 138 wad originally written), but it's more expensive. Anyways, you got me, I'm a "big government" beliver. Good I am as it's saved my life in a accidient, I had years ago. .... Have you ever been in an accidient? If so, you can thank "big government" for allowing you to walk away away rather then being sent to the morgue.

Try a different USB cable.

TPSM is hardly an unnecessary joke. Been used in cars since the mid 1980's, it came to the states because of the Firestone Recall (which killed or maimed hundreds of drivers, do to bad tire design which suddenly falled tragedly at highway speeds when the air pressure was a low. Had these people maintained their air pressure they would have lived). Almost no drivers check the air in their tires. They also don't check their fluids, or clean the windows, or clear the snow off the car either. People are lazy. (And not just in the states either :-) They trust their mechanics to do it. (And half of them are idiots. My mother used to take her Honda to the dealer for service. They would always pump the tires to the psi rating on the sidewall of the tire. I would go over to her house afterwards and back it back down to the correct pressure; critical in winter where over inflated tires will go into a skid easier and wander on dry payment. Anyway, I finally went over to Honda and talked to the idiot serice manager. Turns out, he was the cause, telling all his mechanics to do this. I finally contacted Honda Mtr Co and they called the dealer. Manager was let go). True, we got along without it for many years. And in hindsight it cost tens of thousands of lives. And millions upon millions of barrels of oil. (A Car will lose about 0.2% for each 1 psince of pressure loss). And it's not just a cash grab. It's a law created by Congress to save lives, to save oil, and to aid controllability under wet conditions. My only regret is congress didn't go far enough. I wish they had manditated tire-by-tire pressure readout on the instrument cluster for all cars standard. I have to monitor my tire pressure via my Android phone. Nice thing to think about is, in the near future tires won't even need air. Believe you can even buy them today. .