enigma-2

I can't imagine 32's on 17" wheels. Love to see a picture when you get them installed. Must have one hell of a sidewall.

I was hit from behind in January, knocked one sensor through the bumper cover, still attached electrically and faced the inside of the bumper; beeping constantly when shifted into reverse. These senders are very rugged and I would bet they are not damaged. As you are not getting any signal, my 'guess' is the harness was damaged.

This may offer an understanding of the different types. http://www.ebay.com/gds/Truth-about-CANBUS-Error-Free-AutoLED-/10000000205123542/g.html http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Canbus-Error-Free-LED-Bulbs-FAQ-a/490.htm

As it's been a year and you still haven't found the source, can you id the color of the fluid? This will tell you if it's automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid (or something else). Here's a guide: https://blog.allstate.com/find-the-fluid-identifying-your-cars-drips/

My guess after reading this is they seen something in the tread that indicates an alignment problem. Like cupping or excessive wear in one zone of the tread. If I were you, I would ask why they are recommending an alignment. If it's been more than a couple of years and the tires are worth saving, may not be a bad idea to consider this. (After all, all it takes is one chuckhole to throw the alignment off).

Another way to try if you have MyFord Touch 1.Access your Settings Menu by clicking the cogs located next to the Home Button. 2.Select Settings from the list on the right side of the screen. 3.Select System at the top of the list. 4.Scroll down until you see Master Reset, then press it.

.... and, as complex and interactive the electrical and mechanical systems are nowadays, often times its better to just bite the bullet and go with the pro. I remember rebuilding my 56 Ford Vicky automatic transmission when I was in high school. (Had to, my dad refused to pay a mechanic to do it). But the modern ones are a real trip compared to those. Now days you have to go to school for every little system else your just guessing. (Course at my age, auto mechanics is not worth the trouble ....).

Phone should work, only problems (if there are any) will probably be in the messaging area. But the phone manufacturers generally catch up with an update in fairly short order.

?? http://www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net/product-p/yl8z-13a457-aa-5355581.htm

Nice!!!! Love the color.

This may be overkill but does a good job of covering the subject. http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/about_flash_reprogramming_pcms.asp

When I bought my car (used), it was obvious that it had not been changed in a long time (years). It was filthy, but it was not black. Full of dirt and bugs, but it was still mostly white. The only filter I've ever seen that was uniformly black was a charcoal filter. I can't imagine what kind of air you drove through that could turn a filter black (soot?).

That looks exactly like the one in my MKX. That's a charcoal filter, it's supposed to look black. One way to tell how dirty it is, after you remove it, hold it up to the sun and look through it. A really dirty filter is difficult to see sunlight through it. This is the filter I use on my 2009: ATP Automotive FA-14 Carbon Activated Premium Cabin Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6NBO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rhmVybTZX85QQ Notice it looks black right out of the box. I spray the filter with this filter spray to improve its efficiency: PuraClean Filter Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145I072I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GkmVybXHJXJAJ I use this on my furnace filters to improve their efficiency.

I may be reading more into this but you wrote that you "oiled" the roof tracks. If you are, I wold be surprised that you even got three months out of it. Oil is the worst lubrication you can use. (Oil forms a film and attracts dirt and grime, the worst combination for this type of service). If you have never viewed Mact's video (part 1 is above) I really recommend it. The Lincoln service manual recommends the use of silicone spray. But I would only expect this to last about 6 months up a year. I use a light film of Super Lube. It's a synthetic oil that contains PTFE. A good clean rail should remain (fairly) clean for a year. (And in warm weathe t, I open and close my roof several times a day, I open it as soon ax I get in, close it whenever I park and always close it at night in the garage. So you are not using your roof more than most.

I switched to Philips X-tremeVision. Well satisfied, better than my Silverstar's.

There are two different types use on Ford engines, the two pin are variable reluctance types and the three pin are Hall-effect types. But I have no idea what they would ohm out at. What codes are you getting?

One possible explanation for loss of coolant is a faulty water pump. Immediately check your oil to see if it has a "milky color" on the dipstick. If it does, the water pump seal is leaking coolant into the oil pan, diluting the oil and will destroy the engine. It's also possible that you may be able to smell coolant in the oil if the amount of coolant is excessive. (Don't drive your car under these conditions, have it towed to a service shop.) Problems with a Vista Roof are usually traced to a lack of lubricant. MactFordEdge has an excellent YouTube video of how to properly clean and lubricate the tracks.

the_natrix posted and excellent description of the Ford PTU problems in a forum topic entitled "PTU Leak / Failures", (14th from top) here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/ To answer your other question about the PTU having a drain, I -don't think- they added it on the 2017 for North American domestic vehicles. Personally I wouldn't switch away from the Lincoln approved lubricant. Changing the oil every 30k is a smart move but you still need to monitor for seal leaks at each oil change. Sooner of later all PTU seals are going to leak.

Sounds like your phone is outputting bluetooth audio in mono. Check your settings to see if there's a setting available to change to stereo.

Do you mean to cover the seats with new seat covers? Something like these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272499890386 These are fake leather, but gives the feel for what can be done.

Do you mean to cover the seats with new seat covers? Something like these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272499890386 These are fake leather, but gives the feel for what can be done.

Could br a wheel that'd bent or distorted. Most wheel imbalance problems will make themselves evident at speeds above 45 mph. A back-and-forth shimmy in the steering wheel means one or both front wheels are dynamically imbalanced, or a rim is bent. Your deaaler needs check radial and lateral runout of your tires anf wheels if their balancer has these capabilities. Could also be an unbalanced rotor. Could try reindexing the rotors by one or two lug positions. If still present, pull off the rotors and check for lateral runout. Sealed bearings must have about <0.002" runout or they can cause vibration. If the rims are not bent (tires good) the imbalance may be in the driveshaft; if your car is an AWD. Probably not on a FWD car as the driveshafts are turning at the same speed as the tires, around 800 rpm. Not fast enough to get this kind of vibration. Another possibility is a resonant vibration in the exhaust system. At certain speeds, the natural oscillations that occur in the exhaust may re-enforce each other which can cause the exhaust system to buzz or resonate. Creates noise and vibration to occur in the cabin. This usually only happens if the stock exhaust has been modified or damaged. A vibration that comes and goes with changing engine speed can be due to a broken motor mount.

Oh yaaaa, surerrr, you betcha

The most common cause is mold or mildew growing in the evap housing. As WWWPerfA noted, there are products made to kill the mold and make everything smell clean again. The most common is Kool-It. (Here's a link on Amazon). Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_42pUybHTMHTDC It's a really easy job, you crawl under the car, locate the ac drain and route the Kool-It can's supply hose up into this drain. You Then spray the entire can into the drain and your done. It will expand as foam filling the entire inside of the evap housing, then turn into a liquid and drain out. Here's a Youtube video on how to do this.

Here's an excellent, fairly new (new to me at least) video on the Ford/Lincoln PTU. He tears it open and describes the inner workings, points of leakage and methods of failure. He recommends replacing fluid every 30,000 miles for the Edge/MKX and more often heavier cars, such as Explorers and trucks.