enigma-2

A good starting place is www.tirerack.Com After entering your cars information, sort by review ratings and then read to reviews. Once you have narrowed the search, also check for ratings on www.Amazon.com Many times the ratings are glowing based on only a hundred or few hundred miles. But I would recommend placing emphasis on those ratings after they have many thousand miles of use. I just bought a new set of tires, considered Michelin's which had the highest rating on tirerack.Com (with most ratings based on very limited miles), in checking www.Amazon.com the ratings were not as high after 20k miles or so. Many reporting they had to replace even below that figure. Ended up going with the Bridgestone's instead. But using the ratings on both sites should give you a good viewpoint for you particular for car, year and drive condition (FWD & AWD).

This is very interesting. What did you look for in an upholstery shop when you made your decision?

Taxi companies base their oil change interval on actual testing. Believe they base changes on acidity and failure of certain additive breakdowns. Even though the oil is still lubricating properly, it would be advantageous to pulling some off the dipstick and watch the acidity. Also filter, even the best, have limits. When near at capacity, they may go into bypass and allow dirt to recirculate through the engine. As you experiment, it might be a good idea to monitor the level of contamination in the oil. Theres a good website with forums that deals with oil and these subjects. If you have never visited, it's www.bobistheoilguy.comThe forum on automobile oils have been discussed this adinfum.

Beg to differ. Have 20" with OEM chrome rims, tires are month old. (Bridgestone's) Swiped a curb at 5 mph and blew a 2" hole in the sidewall. Getting a new tire on Tuesday. 21's gave even less sidewall. The less the sidewall, the more the chance of sidewall failure when you hit a road hazard. (Look better though).

I hit a curb pulling into a drug store yesterday (maybe 5 mph) and blew out the sidewall. (Tires are a month old, Bridgestone's). Hole about the size of a silver dollar. Called Lincoln and the immediately dispatched a tow truck to put on the spare. Anyway, currently driving on the spare and it's really noisey. Rumbling, can't stand it. One tire and it destroyed my piece and quite. Just saying ...

Located a set of REAR mud flaps are are advertised as fitting your 2013 Sport. They appear to be screw-on however. (Will fit other years if I'm not mistaken). http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/ford-edge-mud-flaps-2013.html

The rears fit the SE, SEL and Limited. From what has been discussed here on the forum, the Sport's body shape makes it too difficult to fit a mud flap. I can't speak to this from personal experience, but others with the Sport have confirmed.

The owners manual for the 15+ state that if you are running the wipers and shift into reverse, the rear wipers will automatically turn on.

Would some to like this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019OSX8UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487992295&sr=8-2&refinements=p_89%3AAUKEY&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=car+charger

It is my understanding that the "engine off load shed" feature was not connected to the auxiliary power points (that is, they are always on). They are powered directly through the Battery Junction Box and not through the Smart Junction Box. http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/center-console/powerpoints.html Unlike the 120 volt Power point the shuts off when the battery reaches 11 volts, these will completely drain the battery if allowed.

With all the problems I would have the battery checked. Actually if it's more than 4 years old, I would change it. A lot of the systems in the car are voltage sensitive.

I picked up a roll-up shade at a garage sale for free. I used elastic to wrap around the rear headrests but it really didn't fit properly. I ended up picking up a 2009 mkx cover on Ebay and use it when I feel the need for it.

Remember that fuse 28 is the correct fuse for 2009 & 2010 and may be different on yours.

Perhaps replacing the case with one that recesses the keys may work better. Example: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Prox-Key-Remote-Case-Housing-Shell-Buttons-Keyless-For-Ford-Linclon-/141012524577?fits=Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item20d5005e21%3Ag%3AeKUAAMXQzr1R2xeM&_trkparms=pageci%253A3c80b618-fa29-11e6-ba96-74dbd180b1b3%257Cparentrq%253A6d8be74d15a0a2ab98beee21ffecf401%257Ciid%253A22 I haven't actually seen the replacment case, just seen it on Ebay and thought it might work.

Actually it's rare the fellers go around peeking through the tint to see if there's anything of value back there. Too easy to be seen. What they do (and the cops know this), is they go the mall or other large outdoor events where people are shopping and often run their purchases back to the car so they don't have to continue carrying them around. The little fellers watch them and when they head back to buy more stuff, smash. (They don't risk getting caught unless they are certain there's a good percentage of getting the goods.) Caddy and other luxery suv's are prime targets. If you can afford a $40k car, you can afford the better "stuff".

See! That proves it. Tires get hard and dry rot when they get old. We just dry rot. <sigh>

Your actually being smart. I just change mine and Ford garage was still listing them as bring in the "yellow", ie worn but still had sufficient tread to continue. Theres more to tire safety than just the depth of the tread. One very important factor is the tires age. Some manufacturers recommend changing tires after 6 years, others say their tires are good for 10 years wit annual inspections; starting after the 5th year. (And that includes the spare -what I'm guilty of ignoring and rv or boat tires). Here is an excellent reference that explains all of this in detail: https://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html

The fact that the seat reclines, means the motor is working (same motor, the switch switches polarity, reverses the direction the motor rotates). As you do NOT hear any clicking or buzzing indicates that there is no power going to the motor in fwd direction (nothing stuck in track such as a penny, etc). This limits it to the switch. Initial guess is corroded contacts. Don't know if it's possible to open the switch and use contact cleaner on contacts (easiest and cheapest fix). If not may have to replace switch. Testing: remove switch from seat and test with VOM. One possible quick fix, hook jumper between power and forward using switch commector, to bring seat back to full upright until new switch can be purchased.

As you don't have the tools nor knowledge, it would probably be best to run it into the dealer and have him do it. Probably charge 1/2 hr to do it.

Sounds great, what unit did you decide on? Have you considered getting better speakers or does it sound ok with oem?

Ouch. Remind me not to piss you off. lol

I had to do an update through my local dealer, didn't want to, but no choice. Asked the service agent and he said it was because they also had to update certain other systems before the Sync update, and that wasn't possible through the usual update process. The $120 may not be for just a simple update.

I may be off base as I only have the schematic and manuals for 2009, 2010, but I believe it would be similar in yours. Power comes from fuse #45 in the Battery Junction Box (BJB). It powers the heated mirror relay. As your rear window is heating ok, we can assume this fuse is good. The power through the relay is controlled from fuse #28 in the Battery Junction Box (commonly called the fuse box in the engine compartment). -Start by checking fuse #28 (refer to your owners manual to make certain that this is still the correct fuse). -If it's ok (verify by replacing with an identical fuse known to be good) then it really comes down to the relay or wiring. I would guess the relay before the wiring, unless your or someone else has messed with the wiring. (In my 09 MKX, the relay is #29 in the BJB.)

Here's a good discussion which covers all aspects of how the deposits form and ard removed: http://www.aa1car.com/library/intake_valve_deposits_gdi_engines.htm (Does not address turbos however).

As candor in stated, lots to choose from on Ebay. One example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262708571120