enigma-2

Based on your description I would suspect three elements which could be related to both conditions. First (and foremost) is a faulty ignition switch. Should you experience another "non-shutoff" I would try this. After turning off and the car conines to run, remove the key, then turn the key back to the run position, then to off. If it then turns off, it's definitely the ignition switch. The second is that the wiring has developed either a short or an open. Possibly a corroded conbection. The third is the module that controls the ignition system, think it's the body control module.

If the radio didn't actually shut off when you opened the door (and you didn't notice it) it could be a door switch hanging up. I know if you use the remote start, even though the car shuts off after a period of time, the radio will not shut off until it's delay function is triggered. If it's the AC itself, it "might" be able to correct itself by doing a reset.

My 09 MKX weathermap stays on for as long as I leave it. What year/Sync version do you have? I assume your talking about Sirus Travel link.

Almost sound like the exhaust gas smell entering the cabin under hard acceleration complaint that so many others are writing about. Related the EcoBoost engine if I read it properly. Is it possible for the turbine to reduce cabin pressure at certain pressures?

As for the windshield washer spray nozzle, should be an easy fix. First remove the nozzle. Go in from the underside of the hood, release the hood noise blanket in the area of the nozzle (pull clips usually have to be pried out), then while holding the back of the nozzle with your hand "pull, twist and pull" the end of the hose. (Kind of reminds one of grenade training, eh?) If the hose is stubbern, may have to resort to "gently" using plyers on the hose to "persuade" it to remove. With the hose pulled off the nozzle, use plyers to pinch the two clips on the back of the nozzle to release it from the mounting hole in the hood. After you get it out, soak the nozzle in vinigar for a few hours to disolve the water scale blocking the opening. After its open, use a can of compressed air to blow out the Nozzle opening to clear it out. Next push the nozzle back into the hole in the hood (it will snap back in the hole), re-attach the hose and replace the hood noise blanket. Instead of cleaning, you could buy a new nozzle off Ebay for about $10. I would try cleaning first, usually works.

I'll try to respond to the nav problem. First thing I would do is to run the on-board diagnostics on the MyFordTouch system. Should tell you if the nav system is operational. To initiate, (Limited with Sony radio) set MFT to AM/FM mode, press and hold the eject button and hold the right arrow on the center wheel. Hold both buttons pressed for about 12 seconds. The screen will go black and enter the diagnostics mode. If the nav system is ok, problem might be a bad SD chip (it's outdated anyway).

My 09 MKX has the 20" Bridgestone's. 2/3's through their life (avg 7/32" left) and still relitavely quiet and smooth.

I never seen any fluid on the garage floor, would never have known the seal was leaking. Like you said, there's only a small amount of fluid, so by just losing a little would make a big difference in the ability on the PTU to continue to function. Think the total cost to replace the seal was under $300 (but it was covered under the extended warranty). Just thinking outloud, but I can't help but wonder if this is the reason that some units are failing? Fluid leaks, what's left gets thick and loses lubrication properties and the unit fails. Those that are not leaking continue to run per spec. If so, watching for the seal leak becomes the most important aspect of routine maintenance.

Are there any aftermarket anti-theft, towing, remote start, etc, devices installed?

One my last oil change they advised me that my ptu seal was leaking. When I talked to the service agent, he stated that it's the loss of fluid (presumably through the leaking seal) that would cause failure of the ptu. As the fluid got lost, the remaining fluid would turn gummy and not lubricate properly.

See if it's turned on. Press the PHONE hard button. Select the Settings tab on the touchscreen Press Advanced. Select 911 Assist. Select the desired setting, "on" or "off".

Something I just remembered when I was talking with the service representative. Was discussing how the mechanic removed the fan assembly (tight squeeze) and he mentioned that on the 2016 Edge (may have been an Escape or a simular model, just don't remember) that to replace the fan assembly, they have to remove the entire front end! Grill, fenders, etc. He said it took them a full 8 hours labor to remove the fan assembly. I didn't ask but got thinking afterwards that it could cost between one and two thousand bucks to replace the fan assembly.

Started a couple of weeks ago. Intermittent at first, then constant over last week. Took it in yesterday and they suspected the fan assembly but went through the entire A/C system. They tested the pressures and found the high side was high, evacuated the system and refilled with proper amount. Ran several more tests and found the fans had failed. Replaced the fans and ran more tests. They also ran the multi-point inspection and washed the car. Total came to a little over $800 (was covered under extended warranty). Runs great again. For reference, here's some of the procedures they conducted: performed IDS road test, DCL display, monitor PIDS, performed KOEO self test, P0480, performed pinpoint test KN1, KN8, KN9.

With your luck the palm tree would have a disease and the island would be covered with Albatross poop. (Big grin)

One other possibility, have you played with the power lumbar in the seat? I find pumping it up changes the comfort of the seat.

If you were to set it to "S" mode but drive in "D" mode, wouldn't this be the same as being off?

One of the doors is open (or more likely, the door switch is sticking, making the car "think" the door is open). Safety feature, car won't start if it thinks the car is not locked This is a known problem, the fix has been discussed widely here in the forums. Involves spraying electrical contact cleaner onto the plastic arm to clear out the crap causing it to stick. Some reported it works, some couldn't get it to work. There are also YouTube videos showing how to fix. 1-Chirp: start signal received. 2-Chirps: Brake is being pressed or the hood is open. 3-Chirps: One of the vehicles doors are open. 4-Chirps: Tachometer not programmed - see dealer. 5-Chirps: The key is in the ignition. 6-Chirps: The Remote Start System is in "SERVICE/VALET" mode.

Press the "menu" button until "rbds" is displayed. Use the up or down arrows to toggle between on/off. Turn on and you should see the station info. To toggle between the station name and category, toggle "text" button. I pulled this from page 33 of the owners manual.

It's not unusual for dealerships to use high school kids for oil changes. Local told me they use them on some sort apprentice program as so few high school grads are willing to become auto mechanics.

Orrrrrrrrrrr, turn your Optimus Prime mode on your Android and prepare to battle the evil Decepticon iPhone throughout the universe.

Sitting on the patio drinking golden mararitias, eating cashews, enjoying talking with my wife over nothing, warm breeze blowing gently and not a care in the world. I lift my glass to all and wish you the same.

All else considered, tires rated for low rolling resistance will deliver better mpg.

I doubt that these are something you could consider, but maybe something like these would help. http://www.beddinginn.com/product/Super-Warm-And-Comfortable-Patch-Short-Plush-Material-Car-Seat-Cover-11052914.html?c=USD&gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8Fd3jFGbnIcJ1wivhgsKQg1amoEiQsfFXAE29a6u5v5RoCJd_w_wcB

Two different types of products. If you look at the Material Safety Data Sheet for SeaFoam, it lists three ingredients: pale oil (mildly hydrotreated paraffinic oil), naptha (hexane) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). It consists only of solvents - not chemicals with active components like the Techron product. SeaFoam will disolve gum if it's left to sit for a period. Its also good to prevent Ethanol from separating out of gas that sits for more than 30 days. If your looking to clean injectors, valves and the like, use Techron. Recommended by all automobile manufactures.

Have a look at these http://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/521/c3625-ford-edge-escape-explorer-fusion-oem-center-cap-5l241a096aa.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8FTa_A1gUN4gA_xGxBQSqBsaqw4BZOXA7pkppi8KiEzBoCdWvw_wcB