enigma-2

Yes. Not that I know of. Essentially its just a wire sticking into the air. Believe it's a center loaded coil, but in truth I've never looked inside one. That would be my first guess. Did you gey a click when you attached? None that I know of. Either the connection slipped out, the new radio went bad or something hapoened to the antenna wire. Did you pull on it and possibly break the connector ?

These engines are made either at Cleveland (USA) or Valencia, Spain (VEP). The 2.0 USA engines have aquired a very poor reputatiom for quality.

Looks tedious. Why didn't you use a wire wheel? Are you planning to spray it with Eastman rust converter (or something simular)? Frame looks fairy good. How bad was the body rusted?

Probably crawled up into the back seat bottom (where it meets the floor) and chewed through the back seat upright. Little dickens can squeeze through the smallest openings.

Around here (winter months) its a necessity. Driving on the highway in the rain or sleet makes visibility difficult without a rear wiper or washer. FWIW, I'd save the parts to restore when you decide to sell the car. The next owner may need a rear wiper and make the sale more difficult without it. Don't believe that it's a DOT requirement, so dealer can't reduce the price of the trade-in.

I haven't seen it, but some of the remarks on Levittown Ford described it as "cheap and flimsy", and "could pry it off with a flat head screw driver ". Same could probably be said of all caps. Stop some individual from pouring sugar into the tank.

When you wash your windshield, does the spray mess up the rear? (Run down and leave streaks)?

For a late model Edge, they're listed in the owners manual. Your Ranger (as well as my 2009 MKX) have a separate maintenance manual. Ford stopped that due to cost. (If fact I believe they eliminated the printed owners manual as well, in late model cars). Most here feel it's better to change fluids sooner than what Ford recommends. Especially for the equipment where they claim that its good for life. It's true most fluids can go 60k or 90k, but most studies indicate that fluid change earlier prevents problems. In addition, there ard several different schedules for different driving conditions. Have you ever driven through deep water? A different schedule kicks in at that point. For example, in my 2009 MKX, the PTU has no requirement for fluid change. Unless I drive through water deep enough to touch the housing. Considering wave action and splashing, that can be as little as a foot of water. Lincoln then recommends changing the fluid. Rear Axle as well. (Manual says "submerged" but dealer's service manager told me whenever there was any possibility of water entering the vent). There are different schedules for dusty roads, excessive idling, etc. I drive short trips. And my car sits for long periods between trips. Engine draws moisture into oil and other fluids (normal engine use burns the water out, sitting doesn't). Changing to PTU fluid at 30k intervals (Lincoln says its lifetime) is good insurance. I had the unit replaced last year under warranty. The fluid turned to sludge and stopped lubricating. Had the RDU fluid & break (wink) fluid changed as well. And we haven't even started discussing changing the air in our tires.

If it's just on one side, maybe the nozzle is plugged. (Back pressure)?

While your at it, I would recommend replacing the fluids the are NOT normally recommended. The PTU, the rear axle & brake fluids. Don't forget the cabin filter.

Did you delete the washer as well? (Disconnect the hose to the rear at the pump)?

I "seen" that ad. But read the fine print. It only protects the roof.

What do you think caused the O-ring to go bad in the first place? Was it split?

What do you think fellas, $90 and I gain 60 hp and 5 mpg!!! No installation, just plug it into the OBD2 port. Why couldn't Ford/Lincoln think of this? (heh, heh, heh, one if the ads that popped up on this site). https://www.thortonchiptuning.com/product/lincoln-performance-chip/

Ouch !!! Wonder how many guys put wrap on their cars not knowing that it has to be removed in a few years. (Three years does sound a little short, perhaps it's less in a hot, sunny environment). Looks like your getting there. Lot of work. I'd try the heat gun, gets the vinyl much hotter and softens the adhesive better, than the sun. I'd try to avoid any type of mechanical removal tool. Even of it didn't scratch, it may scuff the paint.

Had a friend who developed a third brake light for vehicles which didnt come with one (this was back in the 1980's). Certification cost him a little over $50,000 for testing plus filing fees. DOT certification is why they're so expensive.

Heres another Ford dealer's website showing parts, prices. (#2, 3 or 7 on the diagrams). https://www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com/v-2007-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/body--glass-windows-and-related-components

Nozzle is shown pre-attached to a section of hose. No o-ring is called out separately. https://www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com/oem-parts/ford-washer-nozzle-ft4z17603c?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9d2lwZXItYW5kLXdhc2hlci1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MjEmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89ZWRnZSZ5PTIwMTgmdD1zZSZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz Wonder if silicone sealant would make a permanent connection?

Didn't see a heat gun in your tool ensemble. Fav of pros when removing. Have you thought of getting a quote from the pro who put the wrap on? They're usually the best bet removing the wrap after the lifespan is reached.

No Unicorn Turds?

If you doing it yourself, have you watched YouTube videos on how to remove? Heat gun, solvents etc? i wonder if GooGone adhesive remover would weaken the adhesive bond allowing the vinyl to be lifted without damaging the paint?

There's a video one youtube where a tech found the exact same problem. It's the routing. The harness is bound to the axle immediately where it extends out to the rear axle. One side of the harness is held tight, the other flexs up and down as the wheel reacts to the road. Think of it as a wire beind held tight in one end and the other being bent back and forth. The fix is to reroute the harness so that the connection to the fixed point is further away, allows the harness to move less when the tire moves up and down.

Looks like she's ready for the next soap box derby! (groan)

Normal action, the phone is linked to your ACU. Phone mutes and send audio to Sync. Reason it stays muted until you open the car door is, it's still connected to Sync, even though the ignition is off, due to the accessory delay. This delay is cancelled when you open the door. If you cannot hear your phone through the ACU (the radio), is probably because the volume is turned down. Make a connection with the phone, say call your home phone, and then turn up the volume on the car radio. You should hear the phone ringing. (Cell phone volume is adjusted independently from the radio station volume.)

Are you certain that the dealer actually put in Motorcraft shocks? It's common for dealers to substitute NAPA parts to save money. NAPA parts are a lot cheaper, easier to get (and junk imo). This is especially true for warranty work. I always specify the dealer must supply Motorcraft parts. Even if there's a multi-day delay to gey the parts. I'll bet they supplied aftermarket shocks, probably NAPA, and thats why they failed so soon.