enigma-2

Did you find and fix the initial leak? Putting in a can may have only put a band-aid on the problem. Whatever caused to original leak is still leaking. There are several areas where the system can leak. Putting in dye helds locate the area, as well as using a leak detector (above post). But my guess is the can of refrigerant reestablished the pressures and it subsequently leaked out after it sit for awhile. You can’t properly recharge the system by dumping in a can of refrigerant. The existing refrigerant needs to be pumped out and weighed. Then pumped down under a vacuum and held to prove the system is leak tight. Then the proper anount of refrigerant pumped in. (Label on the underside of the hood tells how much). But first, you can't expect the hold a charge until you find the leak(s). Take it in to a professional and get it fixed properly.

It may still be there, look down from the yellow handle on the backside of the latch. Here's a link to an ebay listing of a compatible latch. Pictures clearly show the backside. The connector is molded into the latch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143091160232?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FeI-rj_XR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Plugs should have been changed around 90k. 130k is way beyond reasonable. I'd pull a plug on the easy side and check the gap. The coils coild fry (as well as the ECM) if the gap gets too large. Don't wait too long. (240k is already way over).

It's been discussed here in the past.

Any chance there could be a leak in the exhaust system? Really need to get up on a lift, run the car and isolate where the sound is coming from. Bad bearings (doesn't sound like a bearing to me, but ... ) can fail when you least expect it.

Does the RPMs change when the sound changes (relating to the shift points of the transmission)?

No loner available? Ask them to rent you an Enterprise car until yours is ready. I've done it twice, but you get the smallest, cheapest, little rattle box. But it's transportation. They will pick you up at the dealer and drop you off again when your car is ready.

Thought I'd jump in here, after I got the financial manger to match the cost of the extended warranty, he wanted $100 for the inspection. Car had just gotten a "TheWorks" oil change. They do a full inspection. Told him, he called service and accepted that as the inspection. (Two birds, one stone). Also ask for him to sweeten the deal. He'll ask what, you say $0 deductable if you have all the service done at their dealership. (I've never been refused). My car is a 2009 MKX and my PremiumCARE extended warranty runs for another year. (Hoping the water pump goes out. They've already replaced suspension parts and PTU).

Gotcha, misunderstood. Probably better to just replace the two parts you need. Shift lever knob, $68 https://www.cheaperfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-automatic-transmission-shift-lever-knob-bv6z7213dd?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9c2hpZnRlci1ob3VzaW5nJmw9MiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWZvcmQmbz1lZGdlJnk9MjAxNSZ0PXNwb3J0JmU9Mi03bC12Ni1nYXM%3D Dashboard vent assy runs around $40 https://www.cheaperfordparts.com/v-2015-ford-edge--sport--2-7l-v6-gas/body--ducts

Keep in mind that, beside the control module, it could also be a defective motor, relay or speed control assy. Pulling the codes is a first step in isolating where to start.

There are many kits offered online. Here's a jumping off point to get you started. (No experience with this particular company, read any reviews for guidance). https://www.rvinyl.com/Dash-Kits-Ford-Edge-2015.html

Sounds like your battety is getting weak. Check the connections for looseness and corrosion. Check the battery's CCA rating (not just voltage reading as battery can recover cell-by-cell but get sucked down when the engine's running). Sounds like all the problems can be traced to a low voltage condition. If it's around 50% or lower, time for a new, new battery. (I watched Demolition Man last night).

What was that old saying, "Feeling lucky? Update your software". I too agree with Wull2U, sounds like it's a job for the dealer. At the least, it will get documented that it was a certified update that screwed things up.

I just replaced the accordion side shield and structural guide (they're sold together as a kit) on the drivers side of the BAMR. Old one came off easy enough, one yank and it was off. Going back on was another story. Didn't memorize how the old one attached (it was off the track anyway). So what should have taked 15 minutes took a hour. Finally fixed. I had jury rigged old one for a couple of years now. (Had gotten the old one to hold by getting hot in the sun and the forcing it back into shape. But that only held for a month or so). Seems once these shields pop out it's very difficult to get back into place and holding. (Seen where another guy used Gorilla glue to hold his on. Something to keep in mind). Think I paid around ~$68 last year, just got around to installing. Seen where they're now selling for double. $135 for one!

Should we assume that this is a used Edge? And you bought it with these defects? Why not run it by your local dealer and see what they think? Should be able do an alignment if nothings broken or bent. Based on the pictures, doesn’t look right.

"Where does the time go"? Yup!

Definitely check the gap right out of the box. Correct gap is 0.028" to 0.031". (BTW, I doubt that the Ford garage would appreciate you bringing in off-site parts. Yes you can get them a lot cheaper, but they are forced to buy through supply channels and have to pay the price for doing so. They may refuse to use your parts or upcharge you for the difference. Best to call and ask first. Be certain to speak to the Service Manage and get his name should things change when you take it in. This is a sore subject at some dealerships). Re: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=4640&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1910718&ProcUid=G1910719&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False

Try charging the battety. May be low from leaving the hatch open (ran mine low in the same way).

The 2013 Edge used the map database from HERE maps. They are one of the largest map suppliers in the world and had definitely mapped Arabia. However, I don't think they made maps for the Ford Sync system, for other than the North American market. (Ford specified the format and Here supplied). You could contact them directly and ask. (Perhaps they might know of a foreign supplier that has)? The contact links is: https://ford.navigation.com/cms/page.ContactUs/en_US/FordNA/USD

Did you check the EGR?

Has the Edge ever been lifted or modified? (U-joint angle). Tire/wheel balance (next oil change get Ford TheWorks. They will rotate the tires. See if vibration changes). Is the car AWD? (Bad bearing in the PTU).

What are you reading on the gauges for high and low systems? Any evidence of oil leakage at any connections?

Originally I had a sensor going bad at around the ten year mark. It would stop working. Drove on and it would start up again. At first it only popped up once in awhile, every couple of months. Then became more frequent and took longer to come back. Finally what took 20 minutes or so, took days. At my last tire change, I had new sensors installed. I decided to go Motorcraft. Dealer always uses an aftermarket brand, Chinese, said they have problems in about 1 in 4 with them. Motorcraft are expensive compared to the Chineese junk, but at least no problems in the future. Had a wheel replaced last year, and they reused to Motorcraft sensor but didn't have a new Motorcraft strap in stock. So they used a NAPA strap. That pos broke after a few days and they located a Motorcraft strap at another dealer in an ajoining state. No problems since.

For the 180° view system, you can trigger on the front camera when the car is below 6 mph, by touching the camera button on the audio screen. Lolks like a little movie projector. There are two different views, one for directly in front and the 2nd showing approx 180°.

Wife went out to take the MKX to the store and the battery was dead. Went out and checked it was a nice pile of corrosion was growing over the positive terminal. (Last I checked it, there was only a little touch of green under the battery connector. No big deal). So I poured a can of coke over the pos terminal, disolved the crud then measured the CCA rating. 650 CCA new, battety was now showing 350 CCAs. Getting over 14 volts when running, so nader was good. But 350 is getting a little low. So .... Scheduled to heve a new battery put in today. They put in a Motorcraft 36 month unit, $140 but used my Ford points and got it for free. Plus got 2000 more points for the battery today. Modern version of S&H Green Stamps.