enigma-2

Probably machine thread. I'd try a 12x4 metric thread. (Although a sheet metal screw should work).

From your description I would suspect the fan assembly. Fans run differently when a/c on. Check noise with a/c off. Then turn on a/c to MAX (forces fans to come on full). If sound changes, fan assy may be loose (or defective bearing).

OK, that's officially wierd. Lights have to be on to chirp. Still think its the blower motor. Next time it starts chirping, turn the blower completely off and see if it stops too.

Auto Zone, etc. Most auto stores can/will reset it for you. Good business.

Did you replace with the correct bulbs? *Circuit may be current sensitive).

Q. How does one "delete" the rear wiper? A. Take it through the car wash.

200 milliamps sounds reasonable. Your battery is suspect. Suggest you have it load tested. Lowest draw is after 15 or 20 minute delay expires. Wife's car had no problem starting all year. She went out to start last week and dead. Really dead. Jumped ok using boost and measured CCAs using Solar BA9 tester. Battery has 650 CCA when new, measured 180 CCA after jump and driving several miles (to charge up). Been setting on charger since then and scheduled to be replaced at Ford garage next week.

My handle broke off when I came out of Walmart late one night. Easy to replace and I chose to purchase a Motorcraft handle. (I prefer quality and longevity over cheap and clingy). This youtube video shows you how to do it. The only critical part is not to drop the screw in the door (like the guy in the video did). I made a paper "u channel" out of paper and put under the screw while removing and replacing. Also attached a magnet to my torx driver.

Most of the inner works are available, including the axle bering carrier, shaft repair sleeve, bearing & hub assembly repair kit, axle bearing carrier, axle assembly, axle shafts & nuts. So what exactly broke that can't be fixed?

If it were me, I'd consider these as well as adding a "webbed" barrier to prevent the poopies from being thrown forward. https://www.carmelocarmats.com/product/black-boot-liner/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=USA GS FEED&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=417&aelia_cs_currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAv_KMBhAzEiwAs-rX1K2ITn5VQ5ZPML1rQi77N-RZ5xNBHyCby1GME2lP3O9r5Xw6ezOHiRoCzzcQAvD_BwE

There is a used one offered on Ebay (think this is the right one). $300 sounds like a good price considering that the original price was over a grand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Ford-Edge-REAR-AXLE-DIFFERENTIAL-AWD-/275034357253?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Consider that it may be related to your aftermarket warranty. They (the warranter) may be specifying the use of cheaper aftermarket parts when available. But if not, it may be that the Axle manufacturer can only produce rear ends in a limited amount (getting people is a huge problem in rejoining the economy). And this limited amount is directed to new production. This is a tough economy. Far too many young people lost their work ethic and want to sit at home and get paid for it. Not just the states (although we seem to be blessed with more than minimal amount of slackers). China also has lost trained employees; especially dock workers and ship's personnel. Their only capable of fielding a percentage of ships that were sea borne before the pandemic. And the docks here in the US and not exempt. But our real problems relate to truck drivers. Many have moved on and are not driving anymore. (Its notable that new replacment drivers in trucking schools are women!) I still work with many of my old clients (clients before I retired). One builder told me that their supplier cannot get (bath fan) vent duct. Although the duct is manufactured here in the US, the plastic beads (used for moulding) and the steel wire are on ships, choked off Long Beach harbor. Been there for weeks. So the can't make any more duct until the ship can dock, unload and transport to the plant. So why can't they use any plastic beads and steel wire; you reasonably may ask? Because the finished duct is UL Listed and in a listing, all parts must be inspected as part of the listing. In short, ONLY that wire, and ONLY that plastic beads can be used. (Changing suppliers takes weeks of testing, investigation, inspections at thd facility and $$$.) So they are changing suppliers. And the new product is not under a contract and nearly double in price. And that's just one item among thousands that go into a new home. You may be better off getting g a good used rear end from a wrecking yard and going that route.

Protection from dog or kids? Never seen anything made from heavy rubber, I used the standard kid protector and it worked ok. (Grandson liked to kick the back of the passenger seat.)

Your car came with coolant specification WSS-M97B55-A. Any coolant which meets this specification - on the bottle label - will work. I believe that Zerex Asian meets this specification. BTW, have you called your local Ford dealer to see if they carry the Dark Green?

Man after my own heart. Besides, they don't have the Lincoln emblem so its a mute point for me.

https://www.maicei.com/?4D-Car-Logo-Badge-LED-Light✨-p595735.html?pp=0&epik=dj0yJnU9c2I5TTNiT1U0Um1HZ2p5TU0tbXgzVDQ0TTNmTmpGQ0gmcD0xJm49TU5leEpwejZyd29kcmNaaFpXQXVkZyZ0PUFBQUFBR0dRSDhJ

Test your charging system.

I'd be concerned as to where the trash in the fan came from. The air flow is taken from the underside of the cowling in the engine compartment, through a filter (of sorts) through the cabin air filter and into the fan. So where's the junk coming from. Wouldn't take much junk to stop a fan. From your description, I'd guess the fan rotor is rubbing on the fan shroud. After a while it frees enough to spin. Pull the fan again and make certain the fan rotor clears the housing. If not, try pull it up a little. The other possibility is the fan itself is seizing in the fan bearings. Try a little oil in the bearings (worked for me, two years now).

Local dealer told me the chips are going to F150's and Mustangs. Ford contracted with Microsoft and Intel for chips, but takes months to produce a chip (think he said 7-8 weeks). Taiwan still behind.

For those in locations where the dealers don't/won't change the PTU fluid, try a location transmission shop. Just tell them you want Motorcraft fluid and you'll buy and bring as most don't stock. At least they have to equipment to get it up on hoist and pump it out.

Believe this is the link @1004ron meant for you to read. Basically you go in from the grill with a large screwdriver.

OEM comes to mind. Had to replace one wheel for my 09 MKX. Dealer quoted $700 something, haggled and got it for $300 something, just over dealer price. Making a sale at little profit is always better that no sale at no profit.

Glad this worked out for you. Any problems with the seat controls? (Passenger control are on right. In drivers position they should be next to consul).

You said you're looking at the B8. Are you installing new springs? (B6 use the OEM springs, B8 are for use with lowered suspension). Either will cause a harsher ride. According to Summit Racing, the Bilstein B6 p/n is 24-252126, and the Bilstein B8 p/n is 24-252157. (But you'll need new springs.) That's fir a 2019 Ford Fusion, no brakedown for sport or ST. Could give them a call at 800-230-3030 (8 am - midnight est) and ask. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/bilstein/part-type/shocks-and-struts/year/2019/make/ford/model/fusion

WWWPerfA_ZN0W mentioned wheel bearings. One way to test this is to decelerate from 40 and swerve from side to side. This unloads the bearing on the side opposite the swerve and may notice the whine get louder of softer.