enigma-2

Have an appointment on Friday. New tires (<1500 miles). Consistent thimp, thump starting at ~40 mph. Gets louder as speed goes up. No vibration any longer, but definitely drivers front area. Gets very loud. Can't see any problem with tire, but visual only.

MacTFordEdge did a video on this (gen 1). May help.

What kind tires are on the car?

One possible solution, if it happens ever once in a while, your SIRUS radio may upgrading the programming listing (does this once or twice a week). You'll have the condition you described until the update has finished downloading and installing. (A few minutes). And yes, if you turn it up when the audio is blanked, it will be blasting when the audio comes back on. Easy enough to verify, next time it happens, check the bottom of the screen display, should say something like "upgrading" or similar.

Battery life is fairly good (Lithium) around 15 minutes. Check out comments on Amazon first, its pressure doesn't come close to an electric or gas washer. Good for engine bay, convenient. But pressure is much lower. I've also used it to spray down my garden tractor. Being battery, just slap in the battery, grab a bucket of water (use soft water from house), spray with cleaner and brush, then spray off. Like I said, convenient. Here's the video where I found it

Gas pressure washers are fine, just remember to use a 40° tip on the car. I've used a 25° tip on wheels without problems. This is what I have used for car and engine bay: WORX WG625 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8JZDXC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_G1T7R0M3CFDMNSR97R65?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Can use distilled or solf water for rinsing (huge difference when drying - no streaks). Also has former and soft brush for washing. Works great. Easy to hook up (just snap in a battery) drop the line in a bucket of soap to wash or soft water to rinse. No hose or extension cords.

Try this. Car running, doors closed. On SYNC, tap add new device. On PHONE, goto settings icon (gear), tap CONNECTIONS, tap BLUETOOTH, and at top of screen, tap SCAN. Does SYNC show up? Not important, but does your phone connect to your laptop (if you have one).

What phone? What operating system on phone? (Android version 10 is current version).

Thanks for follow-up on the problem this clarified a lot of questions. I'd suggest to check fuse #20 in the SJB (fuse box) in the cabin (behind panel near drivers feet). Perhaps switch with another known good 20 amp fuse to be certain. The switches on the door send a signal directly to the SJB which signals door(s) lock or unlock. Also, I *think* the doors must be locked electronically before the tailgate can be locked. That may explain why its not locking. Also I *don't think* that your car can be operated with a FOB as it was not equipped with it originally. Do you have a keypad on the exterior drivers door?

So the car isn't sending a connection request. What happens when you click on "add new device" on your Edge screen?

This may not help, but "find sync on your phone" means click on "Connections", then "Bluetooth". This is where "Sync" will appear. (Make certain the "on" tab is on. Make certain the text reads "Your phone (xxxx phone) is currently visible to nearby devices.") It also advises to make certain the other device is in paring mode. Edge Sync is in paring mode when you click on "add" (or add device).

Press the icon and give brief description. No way I know of to reorder the previous destinations.

Ok, by the numbers. Make certain phone B/T is turned on. (That makes it discoverable). Make certain phone is updated with latest os. Car running and in park. Press "phone" on car sync screen. Select "add a device" and press "ok". Promps will ask for 6-digit pin. Find "special pin" instead. (Androids require four digits). Screen will display four zeros. Wait for phone to ask for PIN, then enter four zeros. This 'should' work, if not let us know what happened.

Nice car. Love the driveway!

Marines, CH-46 Helicopters, Santa Ana, California & Vietnam (Phu Bai, Chu Lai & Marble Mountain). MOS was in Avionics, 6242. Also flew as door gunner throughout I-Corps. Had a letter of recommendation from my CO for Air Combat Intelligence (0221) and spent a year in S&C Files for one of the squadrons I was in. Wings are air crew wings & were awarded after 3rd fire fight with NVA as door gunner. You fly? Crew Chief?

Are there stats on how many are registered and how many are still active (as in posting in the last two years)?

We were on a toll interstate yesterday, doing about 80 and a moderate shimmy started. At first I suspected I threw a wheel weight or a tire had lost air (no instrument warning). No steering wheel shimmy. Pulled into the next available service center, got out and checked all tires. Nothing. Started out again and ... all good. Gone! Came back in about 15 minutes but only just slight. However, as we drove on, there was a thump, thump, thump sound. Then it got louder. A lot louder. Rolled down my window and it definitely sounded like it was coming from the drivers front. (This was now on a limited access highway.) We stopped at a red light, and after driving on green light, it was gone. Dead quiet. Until we hit ~40 mph. Got louder as we went faster. Slowed to another light but the sound persisted but got quieter until we stopped. When we started up again ... gone, until we hit 40-45 mph. (The thump, thump, thump sound is similar to a tire that has a flat spot and is directly related to speed.) Weird how it disappears, get louder and quieter. Nothing under 40 should rule out a tire, and then nothing until after the car went faster than 40 then stays until I come to a stop. Then quiet again. 40-45 triggers the thump, thump, thump. (Mild vibration comes with it, seems to come from rear). Thinking it could be a CV joint, but ??? Any ideas? I just made an appointment at Lincoln dealer for next (not this) Friday. Will post what they find.

If you have a black screen and no audio,, the APIM has failed (very common on the 2011 & 2012 model years). Make certain your getting a non doa on the junk yard unit as very prone to failure. The module ID is on a label on the back of the module. Once you pull the unit out, the id sticker is on the module. You can just pull the unit out and take it to the junkyard. But, I <think> that the replacement unit will need to be programmed. There are also websites that offer replacements (preprogrammed with your VIN) that also include navigation. $500 for non-nav, $600 for nav, $750 for nav and card. But its plug-n-play and your paying for convenience. https://www.4dtech.com/replacement-sync-2-module-apim-myford-touch/

If this just started lately, it very well could be related to a weak vehicle battery. How old is your battery? If it's the original, it's probably at end of life. Also could try a reset. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, then replace. Resets all of the cars logical modules (including the BCM and SJB).

So when you hit lock button on your FOB twice, just the back doors lock, is that right? Couple of thoughts (Before you do this, have your key FOB in your hand.) Press 7/8 & 9/0 on the door key code strip at the same time. Do all doors lock? (All doors shut, key not in ignition). Unlocking requires you enter your 5-digit code and hit 3/4 button. When you press your lock button on the FOB remote, do the turn signals flash? When you press the unlock button does the puddle lamps come on and drivers door unlock. Try locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key. When unlocking the drivers door (with a key) triggers a reset. Then try all the ways to lock and unlock the doors again. Do the front doors lock while sitting in drivers seat and using the lock buttons on the door inner panel? Does autolock automatically lock all doors when you start to drive fwd and hit 10 mph? (Think its 10, maybe 15 or 20, but all doors should lock).

Well there's certainly no problem in changing your oil at those intervals, only in modifying the factory software. The 1yr or 10k interval is a maximum. Granted, changing the intervol to a shorter duration doesn't seem like it could cause an enging problem, but with all the inputs that are involved, who's to say that it doesn't muck things up. (It's not just a milage counter, it watches your driving habits and whatever.) We all understand that using FORScan can result in inducing problems. (I'm currently researching a modification on my mkx). If I do make the change, just adding a rear camera, could cancel my extended warranty. (Per the tech at my local Ford garage). Any firmware modification allows Ford to claim that the modification caused problems unforseen and their ruling is final. This is the official, written opinion that Ford publishes: "The installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part (other than a certified emissions part) or any part (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance ‘‘chips’’"

You might calmly state that Car and Driver does NOT list the Ford Edge as a "soccer mom" car, but as one of the best of the 2-row SUV. Calmly ask if the really think it looks anything like a minivan? No? Station wagon? No? Ask if you look like a soccer mom? No? Then calmy ask what kind of pile of junk are they driving. When they tell you, look unimpressed and say ....... "oh". Then smile. Kindly like. https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a31609316/mom-car/ Car and Driver Magazine lists the Chevrolet Traverse, Chrysler Pacifica, Dodge Durango, FIAT 500L, Subaru Outback & Volvo V90 as "⚽️ soccer mom" cars.

????? ??

Good way to void your warranty.