WingNut

I don't remember exactly what the instructions that the dealers received form Ford. But I recall there was a requirement to replace carpet if there was a mildew smell (or possibly any type of signs of moisture in the carpet). If your car has any mildew/musty smell, I would tell them to replace the carpet.

Pictures of the front mats installed?

The problem is the fastener they use allows for too much slack. So they either need to use a different fastener that can bring that plastic piece right up against the body tight. Or do like we did and throw some 3M tape on it.

I hope it works out for you. And when it is all said and done, please update us on how things went.

I'd lemon law that thing so fast. You keep it...I'll get something new I can actually drive.

To add, I"m not saying an expensive product won't give you great results. It may. But the point is, a person should not base their purchase strictly on price thinking high price = best outcome. You can read Autopia or Autogeek forums until you are blue in the face and you'll be so confused at what to buy because so many people have so many different opinions and experiences from a million different products. What someone that wants to keep their car looking good needs to do is this: 1. Pick a budget. Decide how much money you are willing to invest in car care products. 2. Research the process. Learn the proper process for washing, drying, prepping, correcting, sealing, waxing, and maintaining your car's paint. 3. Decide on a time budget. Figure out how much time you want to invest in doing these things. This will lead you to the type of product you should be looking at. In the end, it comes down to personal preference. What makes me feel great about how my car looks, may not make you feel great if you followed the same process with the same products on your car. The goal is to use products that fit within your financial/time budget and leaves you with a result that meets your initial expectations. In the end it shouldn't feel like a chore.

I'll have to disagree. Price doesn't always mean better quality, durability, or shine. I have used very expensive products and I have used cheap off the shelf stuff from Auto Zone. With the expensive products, I did not see the value. The durability was in line with many cheaper/mid-grade products I have used. The shine, again, inline with some other cheaper products. And so on. It all depends on the paint, the process, and the expectations of the owner. No need to get sucked in to the hype thinking more expensive means you'll get a better shine that lasts a lot longer. I could find two products on opposite ends of the price spectrum, apply them side by side using the same prep, and I'd bet my paycheck that you would not be able to tell me which side is which.

I put similar Infinitys in my Mustang. What a huge improvement over those cheap Ford stock.

Check the manual. Either you can change a setting withing the MFT system or one of those buttons up top may activate the correct setting. Off the top of my head, I don't know what the fix is.

I think it sounds OK for a stock system in an SUV. You can't expect much out of a stock Ford system regardless if it has "Shaker" or "Sony" on the Headunit. I usually have to adjust the treble up pretty high and also increase the bass. I don't use surround. Usually a simple speaker swap will increase the quality of the sound. Because Ford loves to use those cheap paper coned speakers.

That is my problem. My car for the last 5 years (and everyday I'm not in the Edge) is my Mustang. So I am used to getting up to speed real fast. So I tend to put my foot into the Edge.

You should never, ever expect a car to be built within a specific time frame. Too many opportunities for delays. Never trust a car dealer either...they'll say whatever they can to get a deposit and also get you in a car. If you are on a hard deadline, buy/lease off the lot. Or have Acura extend the lease a month...they'll do that no problem.

This is an edit of a post I made in the detailing section: Everybody's criteria and budget are different. I tried a TON of different products over the past 10 years and while most of them produced a nice result, most of them don't meet my current criteria. Criteria that I developed over the years that was influenced by the process, my environment, and my life changes. I wanted a product(s) that: - Was reasonably priced. So mid-grade type pricing. - Was easy to apply. This meant not a bunch of steps requiring too many products. - Could be applied in the sun. I now have a garage, but I prefer the extra room of being outside. - That left my car protected for a few months. - That I could apply within my time availability. I have a job. I have a daughter. So free time to spend hours upon hours on my car is hard to come by. Wash: Optimum No Rinse (ONR). This is a 'rinseless' wash. Once you switch to this method, most people swear by it. I love this product and, when done correctly, leaves a great finish. Dry: Microfiber Waffle Weave Towels. Tire Coating: Opti-Bond diluted 1:1 Sealant: Opti-Seal. So easy to apply. Great protection. Great lasting shine. Wax: Aqua-Wax or Optimum Car Wax. Both are spray waxes that can be applied to a clean car or used while drying. Prior to the winter I may use a more durable wax like Collinite (sp?) Leather: I usually just wipe it down with a damp microfiber after a wash. Haven't had to "clean" leather in a while. Not sure if conditioners do much on the fake leather they put in cards these days. Vinyl / Dashboards: Wipe with a damp microfiber towel. Then apply Aerospace 303. Leaves a nice sheen that makes it look new...but not greasy. Doesn't leave a greasy feel neither. Great UV protection. LCD Screens: Clean microfiber and distilled water. Glass: Stoners Invisible Glass and Microfiber Other: I only use Microfiber for drying, cleaning, buffing, etc. Microfiber is cleaned separately from other laundry using a detergent with no fabric softner. Dried on low for a few minutes with no fabric softener sheets.

Can you tell us why some cars, like mine, is missing the seal yet not getting flooded?

I have used it on my driveway that had a slight incline without issue. Next time I'm around more of an incline, I'll give it a try to see the result. My guess is the result of the grade of the hill coupled with the weight of the tailgate is triggering it to think something is holding it from latching as normal.

I'd let them keep it 30 days, then tell them you want a refund since it will qualify as a lemon in WI: "2. The motor vehicle is out of service for an aggregate of at least 30 days because of warranty nonconformities."

Supersoaker I am with you on this. I honestly don't feel Ford really knows what exactly the issue is. Why? Because my car doesn't have the sealer but has stayed bone dry. While others didn't have it, and they got wet. I wouldn't buy an Edge at this point until I took a newly built one through a car wash a few times and made sure there was no sign of a link. I wouldn't even consider one built prior to May 1. As for the Ford Customer Service people on here, there hands are tied regarding information. There is only so much they are allowed to say and do so I wouldn't talk negative toward them. They usually won't provide anything beyond what we can find publicly.

I love WeahterTech's digital floor liners. I'll get a set in the near future for sure. I have them in my mustang and leave them in year round. My carpet still looks factory new in it.

Mine arrived yesterday also. I bought the roll-up version linked below. I also see about an inch at the top that is not covered. The width is correct. I still think they will come out with a newer model with a different part # in the future so it is an exact fit. That 1 inch won't make much of a difference so I am happy. I have the same exact roll-up shade for my Mustang and it fits exact from top to bottom and left to right. I recommend this shade or the fold-up style. Both are from Intro-Tech and I've owned both styles through the years. My roll-up in my Mustang is 5 years old and still looks new. http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/60A4065A0A0.aspx

You could probably use the Yakima Q-Towers to install a roof rack and then use one of Yakima bike mount options up there. Below are links to a few threads showing the Q-Towers installed on my '15 Edge Sport (without the vista roof or factory roof rails). I think based on the pictures and measurements I provide, you could see if the Q-Towers will work for you. http://www.fordedgef...ima#entry131712 http://www.fordedgef...ima#entry131563

I am with you on this. I haven't had any issues through a bunch of really hard rains. Built April 10. I've posted pics that show no visible sealer where they are fixing the issue nor any signs of water ever being near that seam. There has to be a failure somewhere else that is letting water get to that seam in the first place. So maybe it is actually two failures. One at that seam and one somewhere else. If you eliminate the failure that is allowing water to get to that seam, then the same never gives you an issue. I'm still taking mine in to get the 'fix' applied.

The foot activated tailgate works just fine in my Sport. Per the manual and Ford's instructions, you need to have both of your shins behind the vehicle, then place one foot under the bumper then back. For me, I can walk up to it and wave my foot back and forth a few times. That is without moving my leg. Just place my foot under, quick wave, and out. And it pops. My 8yo thinks its the coolest thing in the world. I'll have to research disabling for those times I have a canoe on top. I am scared of accidentally triggering it and not being able to grab the lift gate in time. I also need to learn to set the liftgate height for those times too so if it does go up, it won't hit the boat.

It isn't just the passenger side, it can be both the driver and/or passenger side with the leak. If you have any signs of moisture in the carpet or a musty smell, refuse delivery. Inspect before you sign anything at the dealer. But normally I check: - Paint. I walk around and look very closely at the paint for any blemishes, scratches, dents, dull spots, etc. - Wheels. I check to make sure the wheels are not damaged from being curbed - Electronics. Make sure the windows go up and down, the hatch release works (from the fob, from the drivers seat, and from the handle on the hatch) and make sure it closes fine too (FYI....it kind of slams at the end and then pulls itself closed. Make sure the radio turns on and when browsing through the settings there isn't any errors or lag. - Interior. Look closely at the interior for any rips, tears, stains on the seats and headliner. Look at the carpet for any signs of damage. Check interior plastic for any scratches/blemishes. - Check the oil level and other fluid levels. - Make sure the door for the gas filler opens and closes with no problem (push on it to open, and push to close). - Check to see if doors open/close with no issue. (FYI...this car is pretty sealed up, so don't be surprised if you need to give the doors a little harder push/pull than you are used to) - Test the windshield wipers. - Test the horn - Check the mileage - Test sunroof (if you have one). For the most part any issues that pop up later Ford will cover under warranty. So what you really want to focus on is damage done by some idiot porter who doesn't care. That means paint damage, wheel damage, and interior damage/stains.

That doesn't mean it has the leak. It means it is part of the group of cars possibly affected and COULD have a leak. I'm part of that group but never had issues with a leak. If you do grab one out of stock, make sure it was not part of that group that requires 15B21 to be safe. If it does arrive at your dealer, immediately have it checked for signs of possible leaks. Any moisture and tell them no thanks.

According to the TSB (or whatever they consider it), dealers should have checked for this issue prior to delivery. I'd try to find the official TSB and see when it was sent out. If it was sent to your dealer, he failed to perform the fix, and still sold you the car.....you'd probably have a good case against him. My lawyer would be having a conversation with them for sure. That is complete BS.