Jump to content

What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?


Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

Just got my 17 Edge Sport a week ago today.  So far I have replaced the low and high beams with LED equivalents from ALLA Lighting and used ForScan to make a few minor changes to settings. I have LED front turn signal bulbs coming from Phillips, front and rear mudflaps that were recommended on another part of the forum, LED license plate bulbs on the way, and am considering additional tint to the windows (MN has stupid tint laws, however). I hope to get some nice photos once the weather clears up. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/2/2021 at 3:29 PM, CrackedDSM said:

Did a ton of little small things recently.  Among the few is.

 

 

1) Brand new set of Ford Performance Plugs(used to be called the SP542's) gapped to what LMS says.  Definitely a noticeable difference as the stock ones were all gapped to like 0.030-0.035

 

2) This.  

 

IMG_0409.thumb.jpg.8f3a2f3829c1d18f0cb5a6c19ee8fc67.jpg

 

 

CP-E "stage 1" Rear Motor Mount. 

 

Both of these together made a noticeable difference in throttle response, top end performance(new spark plugs gapped tighter), and weirdly the front end feels tighter/more sturdy.  Maybe that's a placebo but it definitely feels tighter and more responsive to throttle, turns, and general handling.  I actually really like the new driving experience with it, I can feel the engine through the steering wheel at idle, but not in a bad way.  My DSM with solid mounts is straight retarded by comparison, so this is a cake walk. Curious to get some new 0-60's and 1/4 mi Dragy runs tonight to see if it made any kind of difference.  

 

I wasn't aware that they had different stages of the RMM available. I don't see anything on their website to indicate that different stages were available. Do you know off hand what the different stages would be?

 

At first I was extremely leery of how the CP-E RMM would feel. When I inquired about getting one made with a 60 duro, they said they were all out and they would be using the 65 duro going forward.

 

The only way to get the 60 would be for an extremely large group order, but I digress.   Usually one can tell that any ride is tighter with a new RMM. But the CP-E mount is definitely several classes above stock! I agree with you completely. It is a complete night and day experience with the CP-E mount.   It's not a placebo. I know new plugs and new RMM don't add anything HP wise but they sure as hell feel tighter and more responsive to the butometer!!

 

I'd have to say the idle did seem initially harsh prior to breaking it in. After the break in period I can't really discern any noticeable increase in NVH and it feels stock except when you're driving! One of the best investments anyone can make for their edge!!

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replaced battery with an Optima Yellow Top Dh4 battery 

Installed Bilstein B6 struts/shocks (replaced strut bearing and rubber mounts while I had the struts out and apart)

Replaced front/rear stabilizer links (with the ones from Detroit Axle)

NGX spark plugs replacement 

New shoes -- Goodyear Assurance Maxlife (functional but not the best at reducing road noise still quieter than the stock one that came off it)

 

Not really performance mods but dang it if my car rides and runs better than it did when I bought it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, EdgyJim said:

Replaced battery with an Optima Yellow Top Dh4 battery 

Installed Bilstein B6 struts/shocks (replaced strut bearing and rubber mounts while I had the struts out and apart)

Replaced front/rear stabilizer links (with the ones from Detroit Axle)

NGX spark plugs replacement 

New shoes -- Goodyear Assurance Maxlife (functional but not the best at reducing road noise still quieter than the stock one that came off it)

 

Not really performance mods but dang it if my car rides and runs better than it did when I bought it!

 

Smart choice of upgrades., well done.

Edited by Xtra
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rear stabilizer links we're a PITA to install. The spring was in the way and the bolt stem was longer than the OEM ones. I had to shorten one side to match the OEM length with an angle grinder and on the first one I forgot to prethread the bolt on as a guide and to straighten out the threads -- getting the bolt on afterwards was tricky.   The second time around went much smoother. Other than that and getting them lined up into the mounting holes, getting them tightened and torqued went easy. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/28/2021 at 8:55 PM, lildisco said:

Need to do more Highway to get my tank average over 500 ?

 

When I was a kid they had what was called "The Mobile Gas Economy Run". It was a race (sort of) that the various automakers held the see who had the best gas milage. In an era where gas mileage averaged maybe 8 mpg certain cars, notably the Nash Rambler was posting in the mid 20's. 

The drivers were taught to use certain tricks, such as maintaining a nearly constant throttle between 30-50 mph, avoid quick braking and rapid acceleration. (For the latter, they taught the divers by placing a raw egg between the bottom of their shoes and the accelerator pedal. They could not break the egg during acceleration and breaking.)

 

Same is still true today. To get great gas milage, slow, constant acceleration, anticipate breaking and maintaining a constant speed under 50. Boring I know, but you could try it as an experiment and see what your car can get above 500 miles.

Edited by enigma-2
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

When I was a kid they had what was called "The Mobile Gas Economy Run". It was a race (sort of) that the various automakers held the see who had the best gas milage. In an era where gas mileage averaged maybe 8 mpg certain cars, notably the Nash Rambler was posting in the mid 20's. 

The drivers were taught to use certain tricks, such as maintaining a nearly constant throttle between 30-50 mph, avoid quick braking and rapid acceleration. (For the latter, they taught the divers by placing a raw egg between the bottom of their shoes and the accelerator pedal. They could not break the egg during acceleration and breaking.)

 

Same is still true today. To get great gas milage, slow, constant acceleration, anticipate breaking and maintaining a constant speed under 50. Boring I know, but you could try it as an experiment and see what your car can get above 500 miles.

The sweet speed range seems to be around 50-60 mph (believe that it doesn't get into the last gear till 60). Highway runs above 70 seem to kill my mpg's to around ~26 (depends on headwind & hills) on a trip down to Florida I got 29mpg ?

Currently around 156 miles on this tank. If I rode the tank around 60mph, I'd get over 500 miles on this one ?

Screenshot_20210909-213230_FordPass.jpg

Edited by lildisco
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the car in to the shop today because the back up camera was acting up. Sometimes the picture would be scrambled and last week it went completely blue. The camera is still under warranty and will be replaced by the dealer at no charge.   I am also having the spark plugs replaced with one step cooler than OEM, NGK 6510 plugs gapped @ 0.028. My car has been running a bit rough lately, and has been miss-firing under higher boost levels, and I hope that the new plugs fix the problem. After that I can finally install the V3 air box, and do a rally with Malibu Autobahn this weekend. https://www.malibuautobahn.com/events They have some cool events coming up that I am looking forward to.  

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New rotors and pads, front and rear. (Brakes rock solid like new. Finally. Rear brakes frozen and most all braking force taken by front).

Disassembled and repaired parking brake. 

Works oil change.

PTU drain and fill. ($96. They raised their price again. Probably trying to recover the new pump they bought year or two ago. $10.50 for fluid).

Replaced tire pressure band on one wheel. 

 

Only took 4 days!  (Grunt)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

New rotors and pads, front and rear. (Brakes rock solid like new. Finally. Rear brakes frozen and most all braking force taken by front).

Disassembled and repaired parking brake. 

Works oil change.

PTU drain and fill. ($96. They raised their price again. Probably trying to recover the new pump they bought year or two ago. $10.50 for fluid).

Replaced tire pressure band on one wheel. 

 

Only took 4 days!  (Grunt)

That was a lot of work, I bet the car drives great after all that TLC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered up a set of Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II - 245/50R20 tires on Tuesday to replace the Continental CrossContact LX Sport that came with the car.

Someone less discriminating (rational) will be getting a deal on the Conti's at 3,700 km of use. No knock on Continental tires in general as I have a set of TrueContact Tour on my Malibu and they are a very good tire. The CrossContact LX Sport however are shite! Rough ride and noisy. Handling isn't great either.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, handfiler said:

I ordered up a set of Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II - 245/50R20 tires on Tuesday to replace the Continental CrossContact LX Sport that came with the car.

Someone less discriminating (rational) will be getting a deal on the Conti's at 3,700 km of use. No knock on Continental tires in general as I have a set of TrueContact Tour on my Malibu and they are a very good tire. The CrossContact LX Sport however are shite! Rough ride and noisy. Handling isn't great either.

 

My '17 Sport had the Scorpion Verde A/S 265/40ZR21, 36,000 miles and one blew out down the center of the tread; hence the new tires today and swapping brands.

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I I finally got around to changing Some of my sparkplugs.. lol

2 hours after driving home, the engine was still pretty warm and i was already losing daylight fast, so I just did the forward bank (#4, 5, & 6)

Lets just say i long for the day when the biggest problem was getting straight on an angled plug close to a header..

Holy spiderweb of wiring and vacuum / vapor pipes.. and this is the easy part. 

The rear bank will be real fun

Anyway, 65K miles and the plugs I changed were at 30-34 thousandths, while the new NGK Rutheniums were gapped at .029ish right out of the box

2021-10-08 18.30.38.jpg

2021-10-08 18.56.45.jpg

2021-10-08 19.05.24.jpg

Edited by Cerberus
pictures
  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...