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Changing Oil Brands


tamugrad2013

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I need some input.

 

As my car is now out of warranty I want y'alls opinion on switching from the Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend to a Full Synthetic Oil. If this would be a good idea or if it should not be done at this stage in the game. Also should I try a different oil filter as I have always used Motorcraft filters as well? What brands do y'all recommend for normal driving with most oil changes still occurring within 5000-7500 miles.

 

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Thanks In Advance

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Shoulda done it eons ago LOL. Yes, do switch to a quality full synthetic oil, with no regrets. 5W30 for your Ecoboost. Comparative data is at mactgarage.com for 5w20 oils but composition generally carries over to 5w30 as well.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026

 

The Motorcraft filter is a good filter for 5K, I think longterm 7.5K is probably the absolute max under normal driving conditions. If you want better filtration, you certainly have options that use full synthetic media and filter out more contaminants. But the FL500S is pretty good for the intended use.

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Over the years, I have used Royal Purple, Redline and Amsoil. Toss up between Redline and Amsoil. I also used Mobile1 with no complaints. I either go with WIX, or K&N, or Amsoil filters. Sadly Royal Purple does not make a filter for the 15-18 edge. I prefer Amsoil in my PTU.

 

My brother prefers Redline and K&N filters in his 15 sport. Motorcraft is a decent filter.

 

It's like lildisco said it truly depends on your driving style. My job requires me to travel from location to location. I do a hell of a lot of stop and go mixed with city and highway. I prefer a better quality oil.

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Yep I change all mine from factory fill to amsoil and filter at the first 1,000 miles. Then I just change when the computer tells me to. Have had 5 ecoboosts with over 180,000 on them without issue. Even the ones I run e85 and meth injection on have not had an issue for the long haul. Fact is Im always excited that I have not had an oil consumption in cars to date.

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Nope all with over 180,000 a piece. My truck is the only one running high hp with meth injection. One with a tune.

My 2.0 Edge is currently at 38,000 and I bought it for christmas last year. My dads 3.5 has 196,000 using amsoil 15,000 mike changes. Its his work truck and he beats that thing. My moms escape has 18$,000 something miles running amsoil and changing at oil alert system.

That the good thing about how much my family drives we always get to see how long this last. Being in Michigan they all tend to rot out before the drivetrain fails. My 15 is aluminum so its seem to have no corrosion so far so it will make it to 250,000 looking good

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  • 5 weeks later...

Honestly the brands don't really matter that much. "Synthetic" oil is more of a sales marketing strategy than anything, true synthetics are gases that are than converted into an oil.

 

As for a filter any Napa branded filter is a quality filter. If your going to run over 5K between changes get the better oil filter because it will have more filtering pleats. As well as a 

better filtering media vs the cheapest one. Also napa filters contain a anti-drainback valve, this helps to keep the oil higher up in the engine when the engine has been turned off. 

 

Here is a really good video on it

 

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Brands do matter, as in their philosophical approach to creating synthetic oil.  They do tend to do far better than conventional or synthetic blends, especially when people use the IOLM to mind their oil change intervals.  Synthetic blend is pure marketing.  Either you should choose conventional or synthetic.  No tweeners.  Arguing over a few bucks for 5 quarts of synthetic oil from Walmart, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Castrol is pretty pointless.  They will usually go the distance for at least 6 months/5,000 miles with no worries.  Some breakdown is to be expected after one of those two conditions occurs, with any type of oil.

 

If you don't overextend oil change intervals, I would say, follow the KISS philosophy.  Use the API rated oil spec'd for your vehicle, full synthetic is preferred but not necessary.  Pennzoil makes a stout conventional oil with lots of additives and a high TBN.  This helps overcome the weakness of conventional base stocks, as additives are depleted first.  With synthetics, base stocks are stronger, so they don't need as many additives to meet the same spec.  If you look at Euro oils, practically NO additives!  Tough emission standards etc.  But Euro-spec oils are not what I could consider extended interval oils, for that very reason.  But they do their job well ... within that 6mo/5K spec, no doubt.

 

I don't know of any quality filter made without an ADBV valve.  The position of the valve has proven critical on Ford engines, at least ones using variable timing.  The quicker the flow of oil, the less likely timing chain wear will occur, etc.

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Motorcraft filters have the ADBV at the top, which helps get oil faster into the engine than other filters do.  Not sure if it is the superior construction or not.  But in many cases, engines that rattle for 2-3 seconds on startup with non-MC filters will stop doing so with MC filters.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/Oil_Filter_Cutaway_Comparison.pdf

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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  • 6 months later...
On ‎11‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 1:12 AM, lildisco said:

Mact's stuff is based on a 3.5V6 & not the 2.0, but yes, should have been done a long time ago. I use Mobil 1 & a motorcraft filter. You can can a motorcraft filter from Walmart for under $5 & 6qts of mobil 1 for under $35,so roughly $40 an oil change.

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24236-diy-oil-changes/?fromsearch=1

If you check the Mobil 1 oil rebate site, you can save a lot more. Latest offer is a $12.00 rebate on 5 qts of Mobil 1. (limit 10 qts). You can get a $17.00 rebate if you buy 5 qts plus a Mobil 1 filter (max 2). I've been doing this for 4 years now and have saved a lot of money. Site does not list Wall-Mart, but I've always gotten the rebate when buying the oil from them. Approx $26.00 for a 5 qt jug minus $12.00 rebate = under $3.00 per quart. 

Edited by mrmikesdeuce
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  • 4 months later...

The anti-drainback  valve is the flap at the bottom or opening of the filter. Almost all filters have this valve. The valve at the top of the filter is the bypass valve which is there to open in case of a surge of pressure or a restricted filter.

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  • 1 month later...

I’ve been a Castrol user for many years. I picked 5w30 Castrol Edge (not extended) and a Motorcraft filter. The bottle says it’s good for TGDI engine so I’ll assume it’ll be good. 
I change every 4-5,000 miles. Being old school, it was hard to break away from the 3mo/3,000 mike oil changes.  Ha

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