omar302

Update. I got a set for my 2016 Edge Sport from eBay (this listing). Even though the listing states 2019-2021, I found Ford's part number is the same so I got them and they work fine. Now the really lift the hood to the point that when closing the hood, I can't drop it shut. Have to kinda push it (throw it?) down the last foot or so to close it shut. One of the stock struts apparently started leaking.

I previously cropped these sizes from the Motorcraft battery details for easy comparison. Other members had confirmed that H6 & H7 batteries do fit. The battery tray has three holes for the bracket to allow to fit the longer batteries.

My 2016 model was built on June 14, 2016. I once checked the rear differential (RDU) and the built date was on June 8, 2016. Now I wonder if their is way to know if my Edge has the June change PTU.

In the US, the bearings come as part of the hub, they are not sold separately. For the US Edge Sport this is the rear hub. The US Edge rear hub is the also the same for the US Fusion. The US Fusion is sold as the Mondeo in Europe. So maybe it's the same for the European Edge.

PM sent. I am definitely comfortable to provide you my Edge's VIN. Thanks.

Hi Haz, Was searching online for a similar code I was getting and stumbled on this post. Is it possible to upload the diagnostic procedure for the SASM? I have the PDF for the 2015 model Edge which at the time was not available with the Adaptive Steering as my 2016 is equipped with.

The H15 bulb is a dual filament bulb. 55w & 15w. The DRL function uses the 15w filament only. The 55w filament unfortunately is not utilized in the Edge .

I remember the spline because when re-installing the arms I couldn't align them to the exact position 100%. When seated they would be either a tad above the mark on the windshield or below due to the engagement of the splines.

On my 2016 Edge Sport, the motor shaft and wiper arm both have splines. I had removed the wiper arm a few times and can confirm it.

There is no official reason from Ford on why the battery is charged to 80% (as far as I know). Maybe it is simply for fuel economy that charging the battery from 80% to 100% requires considerably more energy that they deemed that it is not worth the extra fuel, hence charging to only 80% and selecting an appropriate battery size accordingly.

The general consensus is that the charging "algorithms" are different between AGM & FLA batteries and the ForScan change would set up the vehicle to charge correctly based on the type of battery. Also, the battery capacity info would mean the vehicle charges to the correct percentage (80%) as the charging system is designed to charge to 80% only for extended battery life and then would stop charging when not needed to reduce wasted energy from over charging hence reducing fuel consumption.

I wrote my reply above thinking you had a pre 2015 Edge. Your 2016 does have LED interior lights. Standard. You also have a button on the the upper console to turn off the interior lights when a door is open. Just use it then. Another option you have with a 2016 if you use ForScan is to enable the Silent Car (Police mode) in the cluster which would add a selection in the lighting settings to enable it. When enabled, all interior & exterior lights will turn off when the vehicle is off regardless of the doors or liftgate status.

eBay is usually filled with used or remanufactured wheels. Example 1 Example 2

You can also install LEDs for the interior lighting, so even during those ~6 minutes until the battery saver kicks in, the electric draw is very minimal.

If you're still on the original "car" battery, then that's it. Even if the dealer check up stated it was "ok". 6 years is very long nowadays. Also I'm probably sure the dealer meant the car's battery, not the key fob. As for the backup slot, it is inside the floor console storage at the very bottom in the cavity towards the front of the car. It is simply a "tray" that matches the size of the fob. You drop/put your key fob in it.

I honestly don't remember how it was before, but some time ago we replaced failed hood struts on a Nissan Patrol with after an market set from eBay (Tuff Support) and when we first opened the hood afterwards it felt like the hood jumped open. But it also made closing the hood harder due to the resistance of the struts from fully open till the last 2 feet or so. Guess you can't have everything. Maybe an electric hood opener ? but then I'd complain a out how slow it is.

Ok, I just checked my 2016 Edge and it too doesn't go up by itself. The struts can hold the hood in its place anywhere from ~1/4 open (pictured below) up to fully open. On a 2015 MKS, I have to lift the hood higher than in the Edge until the struts kick in, around half way open, but then they raise the hood the last 1/4 way by themselves.

The 20" wheels are not the reason. Other models can also come with 20" wheels and higher tow rating rating. The 2019+ Edge ST with the same motor and same size wheels (20" or 21") comes standard with 3,500 lbs tow rating. As far as I know, there is no official reason on why the 2015-2018 Edge Sport was limited to 2,000 lbs tow rating only. It might be a marketing thing, or an actual physical limitation.

First, this only relates to the 2015-2018 Edge, because 2019+ have better LED headlights and as far as know, both are considered Gen2. Although the OWM HID are far from great, what you are describing is not consistent with my experience of the OEM HID. I have a 2016 Sport also with the 401A package. I suspect something is wrong with your lighting. Bad bulbs, ballast, lens or projectors. Are you sure they are the OEM HID? Maybe the previous owner replaced for some reason. For the 2015-2018 factory HID, I don't recall anyone upgrading them. The easiest way I assume would be to upgrade the HID bulbs. Like the "OSRAM XENARC Night Breaker Laser D3S" or "PHILIPS Xenon X-TremeVision Gen2 +150% D3S". If you still want to go with external connections, maybe just keep the original ballast to seal the housing and then make all connection external like a retrofit solution. For the H15 DRL, same, the only mod i read here was switching to LED H15 bulbs so the DRLs are white instead of halogen yellow. It would be cool to be able to utilize the high beam portion, but physically there are no wire connected to the the high beam filament. So you'd need custom wiring in a way not to affect the existing wiring. Another concern would be the heat generated by the high beam and whether the housing/lens would endure it or not.

Since your OEM struts failed relatively soon, I'd usually recommend going for aftermarket, whatever sells a lot on eBay for example. But a quick search doesn't reveal choices, only one listing from China. So it seems you only have the OEM option. On the other hand, are you sure both failed? Maybe only one requires replacement.

This is the problem. $300 + 250 = $550.00 while a brand new one is normally $599.00 so it will be a difficult sell. Hope you find a buyer.

Checked the water level in the Battery. The "Maintenance free" Motorcraft BXT- 90T5-590, stock for my Edge. Always wanted to test that theory so I did. The cover came off using a screw driver and prying it off from the side. The battery is exactly 2 years old, only the two side cells had the level low enough to expose the some of the plates. Took about 150 ml to fill all the cells to the bottom of the fill holes. Also, found considerable acid/corrosion under the negative terminal that was completely hidden without disconnecting the terminal. Will see if it has any long term effect. Life of Batteries in our climate rarely exceed 2 years. Cheaper batteries usually fail just after the 1 year warranty period.

The fist to diagnose it cheaply is to buy an OBD2 adapter with MS-Can/HS-Can compatible with ForScan and use it to read what error codes are there. I mention ForScan because it can read all Ford module errors, not just what causes the Check Engine light to come on.

This is a multi Ford Vehicle TSB and includes the 2015-2018 Edge. Link to PDF copy. link to source . 2013-2021 Ford - Shifter Not Moving The Transmission To The Proper Gear Position NHTSA ID Number: 10194434 Manufacturer Communication Number: TSB 21-2152 Summary Some 2013-2016 Fusion, 2013-2018 C-MAX, 2014-2019 Escape, 2014-2021 Transit Connect, and 2015-2018 Edge vehicles may indicate an incorrect shifter lever position. This may be due to the bushing at the transmission end of the shifter lever cable resulting in a mismatch of cluster and selected gear position. To correct the condition, follow the Service Procedure steps to replace the bushing and on certain vehicles install the protective cap over the selector at the transmission end of the selector lever cable.