omar302

I posted a Ford GSB here. It had stated to check for number of key cycles (in mode9) and compare to vehicle service history if counter is abnormally low and thus investigate for unauthorized reflash and signs of aftermarket tuner connections. I know with LMS the counter is not affected when flashing a tune or reflashing the stock tune.

I have learned that they are always scanning, so even if you happen to just pass a suitable spot before pressing the button, the system will still indicate that it found this spot as soon as you press the button and will park you in it. So you don't have to always press the button to start searching for a spot.

Not believing how expensive it can be, I just looked up the part number and it is indeed very expensive, wasn't expecting it. But it also seems you were charged a lot for replacing the steering wheel. Found the steering wheel for ~$1744

As far as I know, you don't have to replace them in pairs unless it is feasible for labor charges if you are disassembling a lot of parts to get to the actuators.

I am with you, I am all in with ForScan, but you don't have to leave the door open, if you just latch it to the 1st lock the door will not open if locked and since it is not fully closed would not double chirp/horn.

Did you turn on the headlights?

Hi, Any news if there is any updates from Livernoise after stage 4?

For some reason I was reading it 2011 instead of 2014 ?.

Not defending Ford, I wish Auto manufacturers kept stocks for all their vehicles, but I see the business case. The vehicle is 10 8 years old, the rear differential is not a common item to fail, 99.9% of 10 8 year old vehicle owners won't buy a "new" rear differential replacement. Why keep stock of such an expensive, big & heavy part? I have even seen dealers that won't take in old vehicles for repairs. You are in a unique situation where you still have a warranty on a 10 8 year old vehicle that is willing to pay for it. Since you have a warranty willing to cover the costs, I suggest you find the lowest mileage used rear differential from a non-snow state.

Searching online it looks to be a discontinued part. Example. You might have to consider used or rebuilding the old one. Dealer should give you a more accurate answer.

Was cleaning the cabin air filter today on my 2016 Sport & remembered this thread, they seem to be 16mm x 4mm. Edit: The scale in the photos is in "cm" so each line represents "1 mm".

Today a Volkswagen T-Roc was in my rear view mirror and when the driver signaled to change lanes I saw what the 2015-2018 Edge should've had as DRL/Turn Signal lights. Always wished some aftermarket company came with something similar. See the video below up to around the 30 second mark. Any chance someone can custom make them if we can get enough people for a group purchase?

CCA matches the Motorcraft H7 (ABD "OE" as you stated), but RC is closer to the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610. Given that this battery is a direct replacement to the stock F-150 (standard 3.5L) which uses the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610, I'd go "0C" or "0D". The first F-150 with the standard V6 I found on eBay I just checked has "0D".

Now that's an auto enthusiast. Have to improve on stock ?. Maybe also consider changing the battery type/size in ForScan for the bigger battery.

For me, we we have short driving cycles hence the benefit of a larger battery, As for the 65, its because it is actually cheaper here, so it seemed like a win-win. However, I found out that the battery terminals are on opposite sides meaning the fit will also require re-arranging the wiring. Will see if it is possible once my battery actually dies.

Do you have intelligent access with push button start? The fob has small discs under the buttons that flex and make the connection, these discs might unstick from their location and and make extra unwanted presses. When the car beeps, try to listen or feel if the door locks are relocking.

What about the BMS? I know the battery model or type can be changed using ForScan, but I don't remember reading what would happen if the battery type in the BCM doesn't match the actual installed battery?

Might also want to check 2011-2015 Lincoln MKX Wheels. They are an exact fit to the 2011-2014 Edge.

Issue happened again today. No response from the keyfob or the engine start button. Yet when I opened the door using the emergency key the alarm went off! The Horn worked and I was able to turn off the alarm by entering the keyless entry code on the outside keypad. Disconnected the battery for a few seconds and then reconnected it, vehicle started completely fine. This time the only code was from the BCM related to something with the steering column lock (B1026) which probably was due to the battery disconnect/reconnect as always see a bunch of similar codes.

How did you install it and wire it?

Lower control arm? Or knuckle? Check this link for a diagram and parts: https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2007-ford-edge--se--3-5l-v6-gas/front-suspension--front-suspension

My 2016 currently has ~38K miles. Original front pads. Rear pads were replaced ~500 miles ago.

Your Edge is also a 2016, right? Mine dis not have that icon on the stock cluster, nor in the MKX. I suspect it started showing up in your Edge due to some ForScan change as I see you have done some other changes to your cluster.

Lane keep assist I know is the bigger one next to the fuel gauge, my question was about the small one below. My 2016 Sport also has lane keep assist but I haven't seen this icon. If it is also for the lane keep, what does it mean?

What is that small icon to the right of the battery light?