omar302

Most of the time, the fuel pump primes when the ignition is turned on, hence people wouldn't notice it. But on recent Ford models the priming is done when the door is opened, I assume that is to make engine starting faster after you turn on the ignition.

They will send you a tune based on your strategy. If your ECU gets an update for any reason and the strategy is updated, you'd request LMS to send you revised tunes based on the new strategy.

I have tried several different turn LED signal bulbs, but the originals always were noticably brighter. Especially at a distance. Probably due to how the signal bulb housing that relies on on the bulb shining from the side. The reason being the bulb goes into the housing from the bottom upwards.

As far as I know, behind this piece lies the radar sensor for the adaptive cruise control, if equipped.

Bumper to Bumper warranty is 3 years or 36 months, whichever comes first. So I don't think it would be covered. Here is the 2017 Ford Warranty booklet.

Makes sense, but then it will become more expensive!

They won't consider the vehicles coming from the factory with a single horn as a defect that warrants replacing it with a dual horn.

Didn't find the updated Edge on Ford's China website, but found the brochure for the 2016-2018 style. Some very interesting pictures there. Download page. The PDF is 30mb and I couldn't attach it. Note: Weelbase is 2850mm (112.2") which is identical to the US Edge. While length is 4878mm (192") that is 3.9" longer than the US version.

This part? Might want to consider adding you vehicle info in your profile.

For me, when it failed i did get the message. But having no red light come up definitely means something is wrong. To check if your vehicle was reading the old keys correctly, you try the procedure for displaying the factory set keyless entry code. It reads the 2 keys then, if successful, displays the code in the message center.

Sorry to hear that. Are you getting a message in the cluster that the programming failed or nothing at all?

Can't really answer your first 2 points, though probably there won't be any solutions, for the time being at last, as these feature are still relatively new. But for Start/Stop, the button is for the engine shut-off during idling while in "D" with your foot on the brake pedal to save fuel. It has nothing to do with the cruise control "Stop and Go" feature. These are 2 separate features.

Who doesn't like new things ?. I needed an extra "spare key" and thought of getting the new style. It is of higher quality, built sturdier, the LED is more visible and the buttons are less likely to pressed by by mistake while it is in your pocket.

Assuming you are on the desktop site, click on your name at the top right. From the drop down menu, click on "Account Settings". On the left, you'll find "Signature" at the bottom of the list.

Today I went to one of our "professional" wheel shops and asked them to toque the wheel lug nuts to 220 NM (162 lb-ft), and all the workshop guys were surprised. They were afraid it would strip the studs and only went to 200 NM, gradually. So my question is how many here actually torqued their wheel lugs to 162 lb-ft and for how long? Also, did they have to remove the wheels later on for any reason, confirming out of actual trial that there is no reason for concern torquing them as specified?

Update on the remote, I had the blank key from the new style remote cut and it works smoothly unlocking the driver's door and the glove box. Also, As I now have an extra fob, I removed the batteries from one of the old ones and hid it in the car. Now the car would not recognize it, but if I get in using the keypad and place the remote (without batteries) into the back up slot in the center console I can start the engine and drive. Did it work? If not, to test if the remote works (at least partially) is to do a remote start, it should fail and then the led would flash red several times.

For whats its worth, Ford's TSB 18-2339 for fixing "Dirt/Dust And/Or Ice Accumulation At The Bottom Inside Of Doors" also involves replacing the rear door "rear portion" weatherstripping with updated parts and a "Grip Tape" that helps hold the said weatherstrips better. In addition a "Foam Patch" is also installed on the door itself to better "push" against the weatherstrip. TSB 18-2339_2015-2018 Edge dirt, dust andor ice accumulation at the bottom of the inside of the front andor rear door openings.pdf

Nice work. I think there is some confusion around the 3:10 mark, the step for removing the original horn comes after trying to install the new horn. Maybe an error during stitching of the video clips.

I programmed a 3rd intelligent access key. Used the new 2019 style fob. Read how many Raptor & F-150 owners did it, so decided to try it myself. Mind you, my fob is different from US versions having no "Panic button" and using the 868 MHz frequency, US use 902 MHz, if i remember correctly. I purchased this FOB and this blank key from eBay (same seller). Followed the instructions in the manual, took many tries until finally it worked. My problem was with the last step, after putting the new fob and pressing the ignition start button nothing would happen so i'd press it a second time thinking I did not press it correctly and then a message comes up that programming failed. The last time after pressing the ignition button (nothing would happen) left it a few moments and it programmed successfully. Another note, the manual states to have the buttons facing back, but that is not correct, they need to face UP with the key ring facing towards the back of the car. Another thing, when programming the new style key, remove the key so it fits better in the back up slot. Edit: Update on the remote, I had the blank key from the new style remote cut and it works smoothly unlocking the driver's door and the glove box.

Seems it just pulls out. This image is part of the B-Pillar removal procedure. B-Pillar Trim Panel R and I.pdf

It is my car. Took the video myself ?. What is different?

Nice ride and nice photos. Take care.

On my 2016 Edge I found out that it will relearn the positions of the tire automatically after a tire rotation.

It is normal to have 3-5 psi change between readings from a cold tire (parked overnight) and a hot tire (ex. 10 mile ride). Also, the TPMS low light would come on when the tire is around 25% under recommended pressure, for the Edge the recommended pressure is 35 psi and the light would come on around 26-28 psi (not sure exactly). From what you have explained and see anything unusual. Also remember that the readings are sent from each sensor every 2 minutes or so, so there might be bigger differences between tires depending on when the system updates. One last variable is the rounding of numbers, 35.4 & 34.6 will both probably read as 35, but then one will read 36 psi much quicker.

Welcome. Nice pair.