enigma-2

Was at the dealership yesterday, asked the service rep about having the fluid changed in the PTU. He told me they never do that. Told him I've had it done here twice now .... deer in the headlights look.

Just think, what it they told you that no one should sit in tbe drivers seat?

Here is a copy of the full document. Note how they can tell if the vehicle has ever has a tune. G0000128.pdf

FYI. Here's a copy of the 2016 towing guide. Talks about turning off the overdrive under certain conditions and a "special" towing mode. (?) 16rv&tt_ford_edge_sep28.pdf

Try pulling out the A8 card and do a master reset. https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-technology/myford-touch/settings/how-to-perform-a-master-reset.html

Which oil is best? Mobile One? Royal Purple? Do high zinc oils provide better protection? This article (very long, very technical) goes deep into how oil works in an engine, and more importantly, how each oil ranks again all otheres. Very eye opening. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Also there are new and removed "points of interest" updated. From what I've seen, the maps are about 2-4 years behind. Fives years, you'll probably see some new roads, probably mostly minor, and a lot of new POI's. If you use your navigation to travel and use poi for your destinations, I would say yes. Day-to-day driving around town, not really a big deal.

Cute BoBo. Knows what's missing from this picture? This:https://www.dog.com/item/guardian-gear-grid-vehicle-barrier/P03738/?srccode=GPDOG&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9_LRBRDZARIsAAcLXjeMFHukKwY3W92pzw17LdtgDGralydTZDtHzYoqFGckanp3m7cM2r0aAgbEEALw_wcB&kwid=productads-adid^236105055789-device^m-plaid^412092602594-sku^521906-adType^PLA

I can offer a guess, wonder if this connector is for the rear backup sensing system?

Water pump failure common in the 3.5 L engines. It may have been was leaking for a while and you never noticed. The guys that change your oil never look, they just dump the oil in the catch container and wait for it the finish. The coolant pump is not driven off the serpentine belt so unlikely it's related.

Local dealer offers it or they will let me buy the oil and they will put it in. I'm using the Motorcraft blend with no problems.

Soooooooo, you're gonna weld a couple of 4" nuts onto the back of your car? Oooooookkkkkkk then ?

Circuits #1, #3, #10, #24. etc.

I ☆think☆ 100 ft/lbs is good for tires up to 20" & 168 ft/lbs is for 21" tires. As for using a torque wrench, remember that about 50 lbs is the practical limit for "most" people to be able to use, so you will need a 2' wrench to reach 100 lbs and a 3' wrench handle to hit 150. (I remember whole in the service, the mechs used 3/4" sockets with 4' torque wrench to torque nuts on helicopter transmission.

Hate to think of those nuts flying off at 60 mpg. They could kill the driver of thr the car following.

Any circuit that's hot with power off should work. Fuse 50 is the horn, hot at all times. But it will run your battery down.

Yes, but the OP wanted a method to store the route in memory (with waypoints). Unfortunately the navigation system doesn't do this. Storing a destination in favorites only stores the final address, but not the POV's or actual route previously taken. When you choose the stored route from favorites, it calculates a NEW route from your then current location. The only work around I could find was to progrm the POV's separately and let treat each stored POV as a separate route. Works, but cumbersome.

I would imagine that hanging a bunch of empty Viagra boxes on the hitch would be better. (Uh, too much?)

I figured out a way to save a route with several destinations last summer. I started out by programming in each of the destinations. Then told the nav to start. It mapped out the route to the first destination and I selected quit. I mapped out all on tbe destinations in the same manner. >>The nav system automatically saves the last 40 destinations in memory<< Anyway, the day we left I chose "previous destinations" and chose the destination we were going to first. After visiting I then selected the 2nd one from "previous destinations" & it reprogrammed from where we were. And so on.

I was quoted 1/2 hour + parts. (Guess they know that it will involve scrapping and digging the old plastic out.)

This would make it look betterhttps://www.yournutz.com/product-page/8-original-nuts-flesh-toned

One nice thing about having an Extended Warranty on my 09 MKX. Flat tire, I call Lincoln, they call a repair service and they come out and change the tire. Last time it was in the pouring rain. (He did use a torque wrench on the finl tightening). .

Follow up: the pattern is "V" shaped, full upper and lower part of the windshield (think oval). If yours us only on the top it sounds like it's partially clogged. For $12 why not just pop a new one in?

I was only recommending Dorman because of price. I was assuming that they're the same quality as OEM. Spray pattern of new nozzles appear to be ok, perhaps more on upper area vs. lower. I'll have to look today whole we're out shoping.

Noticed that my washer was no longer working on the drivers side, and the passengers side was weak. Quick investigation revealed that the nozzle broke under the hood insulation blanket. The Ford & MKX nozzles make a sharp right-hand turn just under the hood and the hose puts a lot of tension on this connection. Figured that if one was bad, the other would follow in short order. Stopped by local Ford dealer and got clipped for $24 for two of them. Recommend if you are replacing yours, go with Dorman off Amazon. Anyway, you pull the insulation blanket with a trim tool (taking care not to lose one like a certain idiot we won't mention did) and the blanket slips right off the two metal clips. The old nozzles remove by pinching the prongs on the underside and they pop right off. When I went to remove the passenger side it easily broke off as I touched it. (These nozzles are cheap plastic and age quickly do to engine heat). In both cases the part of the nozzles that slip into the hose remained in the hose. The new nozzles easily slip into the holes in the hood and lock into place. Went to remover the plastic stubs in the end of the hose and they crumbled. Each little bit had to be scraped/dug out with a small screwdriver. (Any ltitle bit left behind will clog the new nozzle). After digging and digging, I used a Q-tip and did my best to clean out the remainder (which was now powder). Finally I turned on the washer and used the stream to wash out any remaining particles. The hoses push on easily (the drivers side was a stretch). Blanket slips back in place, trim clips push back in easily (minus one) and done.