enigma-2

Had mine replaced with Motorcraft and have never had a single problem. Will probably outlast the car now. BTW, what did you mean by "officially installed"?

Couple of ideas. Try pulling out the ACU, disconnect the screen and check the connector for corrosion. Second is to try a master reset. Normally you would need the screen, but I ☆think☆ this can be done through the AUX button and sterring wheel controls. http://ford-life.com/2012/07/19/how-to-reset-microsoft-sync/

Had the car warmed up for 10-15 minutes, or so?

Sounds silly, but when you think about it, a search will use more resources than any other action. Probably just a precaution to prevent excessive delays for the rest of the board. (Remember that several people could be doing a search at the same time).

LOL

I have a 1st Gen. What puzzles me is, the radio volume is independent of the call volume. No matter how loud the call volume, the ACU resets itself to the original radio volume. Try this. Turn the radio volume where you want it. Make a call (time & temp?) then when the call is connected, adjust the call volume to where you want it. When the call is over, the radio goes back to its volume setting.

Read reports of off-brand fans with a lot of noise and vibration. Also the connector is wired differently than oem. Best if you go with Motorcraft.

After cleaning around the hatch, my power lift arm started squeeking. I used Super Lube (contains PTFE). Nothing better.

They're LEDS art they? The illuminated door sills pry up.

Believe that the unit is designed to work without any lubrication (the service manual allows silicone spray if needed). Be aware that lithium grease will eventually gum up when exposed to water and cold, and cause sticking problems by itself. MacFordEdge did a really good video on how to remove the glass, clean and lubricate the rails to prevent future problems.

Haven't used it yet, but from what I've read (and seen in youtube videos), everyone seems to like it. Only one negative comment was where someone put it on in the sun (a big no-no). Some reported getting three months, some said they were still good at six months.

I have a 2009 MKX and the dealer found the PTU starting to leak during an oil change. Had the tech pull it apart and replace the seal. (Under extended warranty).

Ok, mily 09 is different. My radio is powered by two sources, power in run, power in delay and powered thru a "start" wire (not certain as to what it does). Mine is not powered unless car in run or on time delay. Sorry for the confusion.

This might be what your looking for. https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/products/12v-power-accessory-kit

See if this video gives you the proper actions to initiate a diagnostics test:

Continuing an old thread, I found an excellent video from Dallas Paint Correction and Detailing, showing an easy and really fast way to detail a very dirty engine bay. Note, the video is done in real time and runs around 15 minutes. Quoted in tbe video, Scott uses Super Clean aerosol foam as the cleaner/degreaser, a Worx WG520, 600 cfm blower to blow out the leaves and loose dirt and to dry, a Worx Hydro Shot washer with distilled water to rinse, and either Miguires hyper dressing, or Stoner Trim Shine for the final bling.

Below is a video where FordTechMakuloco was tracing down a complaint concerning drivers door lock failure and window not working. He finally tracked it down about 2/3 the way through and may be coom on to your problem. (At least easy to check).

Try putting the hvac module into diagnostics mode and see what codes are displayed. Hold down the power and defrost buttons for a few seconds and then press the power button. The system will go into diagnostics mode. If it finishes with the code "88 88" it means it passed. It's possible that the system will work after this as it "re-zeros" the actuator(s). Here's an excellent video explaining why it's failing (compares the old style in gen 1 with later style in gen 2+) .

Couple of years ago (or so) I asked my dealer the same question about blend. Basically they told me the same thing, that it was the best compromise for a modern engine. I had used synthetic in my last car with no problems, and have none with the blend in my current MKX. Agree with the others, good quality 5W20 blend. Best of both worlds and save some money. Stick with Motorcraft filters (rated top on Tomstheoilguy.com). As your in Canada, don't you use an engine heater?

Salesmen. Ha. Mine told me the Vista Moonroof only popped up, did not slide open. Said none of them did that any more.

I looked up service manual and there is only one actuator controlling the blend door(s). Wasn't able to determine if there were still two separate doors connected by linkage or a single larger door. If two doors makes sense that one side was warm if the linkage broke. (If just one large door both sides would be the same, no matter what the actuator was doing).

Did anyone else has access to the fobs or car during your absence? Even if you pull out the battery, the doors will remain locked. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems, but I doubt it would allow the doors to unlock. (But if it can, your right that would be a real problem).

Consider a remanufactured one from NAPA. Works like new but much better price.

Was reading in a post by WWWPerfA_ZNOW where he mentioned a way to Wax your car in a few minutes. I did some research on this stuff and it looks incredible. Get your car wet, spritz a mix of CarPro HydrO2 and water (delute 1:7) and immediately rinse it off. Done.

Daytrip today, running 75-100 mph and was getting 19-20 mpg. Normal city driving 14-15 mpg.