enigma-2

Here's a video I posted a while back. See if this sounds like your problem.

Sounds to me like the strut mount bearing is seizing. It's allowing the coil spring to rotate on its base. The spring does not move smoothly however, it jumps as it rotates, creating the clicking (or "ratching") type sound. Best if you Motorcraft. Depending on how many miles you have on your car, may consider replacing the struts as well. (After all you have to pull them to change the strut mounts anyway). Motorcraft also sells a preassembled strut/spring assy. Don't have to worry about borrowing or buying a spring compressor and removing the old mount and spring. Just remove old strut and pitch. New strut goes right in. Saves time and restores the original height (if that's a concern). .

You can check for yourself (just to keep them homest). The tire date code is the last four number of the DOT code. Look for the "DOT" on the tire (can be on either side) and you should find the last four numbers in an oval (code changes each week so they use a template). The first two number is the week of the year, the second is the year. For example, today's date code is 3517. This is the 35th week of 2017.

Yea, well how does that compare to the giant hit, "I Sold My Heart to the Jumkman"? lol

Nothing I've every seen in my MKX. Probably have to run the wire above the headliner.

With all of the unrelated faults that are occurring, there appears to be only one component that's common to all. It's the Smart Junction Box. Before taking it to a dealer however, how old is you battery? Batteries that still test good on a regular tester will still have internal problems and cause problems with circuits. (Unlikely in your case, but still a distant possibility). Those two items would be the first thing I would suspect as to the root cause. BTW, the drivers window is powered from fuse #4 in the SJB (cabin fuse panel). It's a 30 amp fuse. Did you check it?

We just got back from there. Check out Leavenworth Zip Lines if your looking for fun. https://www.leavenworthziplines.com/ I swear, Seattle is the most confusing city to drive around. Got lost everywhere. (BTW, I Gould Google Maps the best program to use there). Hope you have a great time.

Simple, stop swimming in them.

Ya man, they would sure come in handy down in Texas right now. Seriously, I can't imagine what those poor people are going through. 40"-50" of rain and I'm worried about stepping puddles? Bet I know where we can pick up a brand new Edge or MKX in a few weeks... really cheap!

Whatever the kid in the car next to is listening to ......

Sadly my extended warranty comes to an end next month. After this will will only cover the cup holders (I think). The best insurance is to do all of the preventive maintenance, and other stuff not required (such as changing the PTU, axle, brake and pwr steering fluid$). I also authorize most repairs the service department recommends. Fix it now before it causes others parts to weaken and fail. (I.E. a worn Tie rod end thats getting worn will put extra stress on the rest of the suspension and drive leakage).

You can't (directly). You can select a phone number and assign it to an existing quick dial location which will overwrite the existing number, or you can do "master reset" which will delete your phonebook and all the quick dial settings. To set a different number for quick dial, select phonebook, select your number and select which quick dial location to set it for. If it currently has a number assigned, select "replace".

I looked on the wiring diagram and all of the back lighting is connected together at connection point P209. As to why only two of the back lights are switching is really perplexing. If all of the backlighting were going full bright it would indicate the SJB was at fault. As for the odometer, all of the instrument cluster lighting is all wired together. That the odometer goes bright and the rest doesn't just makes no sense.

phoofff! I'm putting on a Mazzanti emblem.

I've always wondered how many common failures are design related and how many fail through customer's lack of proper maintenance.

I liked the one where you showed where the water pump weep hole was located. Simple, but I would nevery known where to look without the video. Thanks!!!

That's strange. I have a clear indicator in my gen-1.0. If the FOB doesn't open the door, time to change the battery.

Keep in mind that any aftermarket part installed will not be covered under the factory warranty. This also includes anything the aftermarket part causes a failure in the original car. I had a guy slide into.my at a red light last winter, his insurance company told me to get three estimates from companies on their list. I said no, I already had an estimate from the local Ford dealer and was going to have it fixed there. There was some back and forth, and I said, it's going to be fixed there, I'll pay for it and send the bill to their client. They immediately accepted the Ford garage and dealt directly with them. Paid for Enterprise as well.

Talking to a friend who said that you dealer can hook up a computer and activate your radio. Try calling your dealer. Appearently you might be able to find, download a dealer app that can do this as well. (But good luck on that).

I still am wondering about this. I thought that Sirius came on all Ford radios. Easiest enough to check, call Sirius and givery the your radio's ESN. If you don't know how to find that, they will walk you through it (be in your car & follow their directions). If equipped, they can activate your radio while on phone.

Here's a complete kit to install Sirius to a factory radio. $180. http://store.xmfanstore.com/complete-sirius-install-kit-for-gm.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=152665108124

Not that I know of. You could try unplugging fuse 29 again but this time leave it unplugged for half hour to an hour. .

Sounds like your Vista Moonroof drains are clogged. The moonroof has a channel running around the window designed to catch the rainwater and channel it over to one of four drains; located in each corner. If one or more drains clog, the channel can fill and the water can overflow onto the headliner. Easy enough to check and clear. Easiest way is to take a air valve attached to an air compressor and add a short length (perhaps two ft) of 1/4" tubing to the end. Open the sunroof and while standing in the open window, run the tubing about a foot or so into the drain holes. Then blast the drain with a hundred psi and if there's anything clogging them, the air will clear out the gunk. If you don't have a compressor, you can use heavy gauge string trimmer line. Just start feeding the line into the drain opening and keep twisting and push/pull until it goes all the way down to the outlet. Either way, it should take only a couple of minutes work.

Probably need to do a master rest (cutting power doesn't do this). If you still do it, try this: 1. Access your Settings Menu by clicking the cogs located next to the Home Button 2. Select Settings from the list on the right side of the screen 3. Select System at the top of the list Scroll down until you see Master Reset, then press it. (if you can). If not, need to take it to the dealer. They can do a master reset or diagnose the problem (replace the display).

Another member, vicki1985, mentioned using a 1-1/4" socket (probably a 32 mm) on a hub. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8329-07-sel-plus-awd-rear-bearinghub-replacement/