enigma-2

I've read about a couple of rules of thumb that one can use for increasing tire sizes: 1. Increase section width by 10mm Decrease aspect ratio by 10 points Increase rim diameter by 1 inch 2. Increase section width by 20mm Decrease aspect ratio by 20 points Increase rim diameter by 2 inches.

Have a look at the Tirerack.Com website. The first four of five tires listed (all above 4 stars) are all good in wet weathere and snow. To read the reviews, click on the stars for each tire and check the bargraph, esp. in the area of wet and light & heavy snow. Should make the job of which tire, easier. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireResultsServlet?tireIndex=0&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2012&autoModel=Edge+Limited&autoModClar=AWD&width=245%2F&ratio=60&diameter=18&sortCode=54053&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=S&minLoadRating=S&tab=ALL&zipCode=&forFilters=false&performance=ALL&filterPageClose=true#0 As I said before, I'm running the Bridgestone's and am well satisfied with them; but, remember none of these are snow tires. And you will never get as good traction with an all-season tire as compared to a specific snow tire. (But they are quieter and smoother).

I have a slight click (best I can describe it) sound, that's intermittent at best. I think I traced it to the front driver's mud flap. It's not a big deal so I ignore it, but any little sound out of the ordinary. .......

Really nice. From what I can see, looks like you did a great job.

Try replacing with new pins. It's possible that the original pins have become worn from constant movement over the miles of road.

Perhaps if you could elaborate as to the actual push pin design you're referring to. Do they look like these (have had good luck with the screw-in types) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HJPYT64/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490725325&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=push+pin+ford&psc=1

Underfloor cargo management system in the ultimate package. (Sorry, gen 1 MKX. Just holding up the old guys positions).

Begs the question as to 'why' was it disconnected in the first place. Sounds as if someone had the cargo side panel off for some reason.

Didn't Ford convert over to LEDS starting with the 2011? Looks like you can pull the top of the shifter cover off (simple clip on) and see if the LED is replaceable. If not, https://www.amazon.com/2011-2014-Ford-Automatic-Transmission-CT4Z-7210-FA/dp/B00TRFASC4

My 09 MKX gets a full detail every two years and a trip through the car wash every week. During the winter months she gets the deluxe wash, with under belly (road salt), rainx, tire shine and a good coat of Simoniz wax (which lasts a full week). Having her detailed is the secret. Looks showroom.

Though they specified synthetic because of the high temps. You certain dino oil can take the heat?

The fans keep running on my 09 MKX for ~10 seconds after a warm shutoff. Normal behavior.

On my 09 MKX, the front windows open and the moonroof pops up. That may have changed in the 15+ models.

One possibility you have the 3.5L engine, is water pump may be failing. Check your oil dipstick and see if any coolant has entered to oil. Oil with coolant in if looks milky, milkshake color. If so the water pump may be failing and needs to be fixed asap, have it towed. If not, have you lost any coolant? Is the reservoir low?

I would think 255x55Rx18 is as wide as you would want to try on an 8" rim. Speed is only 0.05% slow. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator/235-65R17/245-60R18/255-55R18 BTW I run Bridgestone Dueler's on my MKX. Just replaced, had Bridgestone's on before. Not as Soft rubber as Michelin but don't get noisy and harsh after 20k miles.

Nothing's better than OEM.

2nd on using only Motorcraft. Others have been disappointed with the aftermarket units. To the point of pulling out them out and replacing with Motorcraft. Noise, vibration are two problems they reported.

I was curious and looked these up again, only looked up by 2007 Edge instead of models. Used O'Riely Auto parts. Both stem mounted and band mounted are listed a working. They also advertise that they (as keast the stem mounted) didn't require programming. I'm guessing that in 2007 it was OEM to use s band, but looks like both versions can be used now. (And I agree with checking out Ebay. Amazon as well, as O'Brian is expensive). http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/search/TPMS+Sensor/05430/C0337.oap?year=2007&make=Ford&model=Edge&vi=1434489&reset=true

Probably too new yet. Give it a couple of months.

Will this fit? https://www.amazon.com/Leather-explorer-Mustang-expedition-LFO04-6/dp/B012C6K6T4

Both are 315 mHz. Difference appears to be the size and type of wheel they fit (chromed plated or machined aluminum wheels). May want to talk with your local dealers parts department to see if they work with your particular car. For example, the 7L1Z1A189A sensor is designed for the 2007 Edge with 17" wheels, 18" machined aluminum wheels & 20" wheels.

Your probably right. I was keying off having water in the oil 'and' low compression in couple of cylinders. Didn't think a blown seal on the water pump could cause low compression. That and he has a 2013. Seems I read somewhere that ware pump failures were more prone on 07-08 3.5l. Sy have been a TSB which only covered those years, but nonetheless all other years are still vulnerable. As for why it didn't want to continue to run, maybe the low compression played a factor? As for your Edge running hot, I would imagine you would want to rule out the thermostat first. Never replaced one on the 3.5l, is it easy to change or a pita like everything else?

Responded in a different forum. Please don't post multiple posts in different forums, on the same problem. Pisses everyone off.

Have you though of replacing the switch? Removing the rear door trim panel is simple enough: -Remove the handle bezel by pulling off the screw cover, removing the screw and the the cover itself -Lift and remove the door window control switch matt -Remove the screw -Remove the 6 trim panel screws -Disengage the bottom of the trim panel edge by pulling outward to disengage the push nuts -Lift trim panel upward out of the belt line moulding -Remove the trim panel for door and disconnect electrical connectors. With trim panel off, you now have access to the latch assembly with the failed switch. From the looks of it, you should be able to remove the trim panel in five minutes. I remember seeing one video on YouTube where the fella was able to remove the switch from the latch without removing the latch. (Takes more time, but removing the latch may prove to be the better way to go).

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