enigma-2

This site may help you get started. Skip down to systems with glass. https://www.etrailer.com/roof-2016_Ford_Edge.htm?style=with+glass+roof Accessories for canoe: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Watersport_Carriers-sf-Canoe.aspx

Dealer under warranty should have been your first stop.

Based on your description, it almost sounds like someone stold your catalytic converter.

Whenever I run across an aftermarket part, I usually check with what others write about the product. I focus on 1-star write-ups as the 5-star are often either the seller or purchasers who have been given the product for free or reduced price for a five star write-up. (I've been offered a reduced price of 50% for a 5-star write-up on Amazon). That being said, here's what one user has to say about a stubby he purchased: I replaced the OEM antenna from my Mazda tribute with this one since I don't like the long original one, It's small, esthetic, easy to install but that's it, the signal dropped at least 70% but it's not a big deal for me because I am not a radio "consumer". Overall if you want something small and nice this one is ok for you. Many 1-star write-ups stated they bought for ascetic and not performance. There are dozens of stubbys for sale on Amazon. Make certain you read the user reviews for the one you sect before buying. Most are junk - a hunk of cheap plastic with a piece if wire stuck in it. I would expect that the OEM has a bottom loaded coil built into it (makes it appear as a longer wire to the coming signal). For reference, you can buy an aftermarket unit that matches OEM specifications for under $8. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/24000-07539889.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=TS&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2007-2015+Ford+Edge+Antenna+Mast+SKP+07-15+Ford+Antenna+Mast+2009+2010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=833361262770%3A%3Apla-833361262770&kid=833361262770&gclid=CjwKCAiA_omPBhBBEiwAcg7smeA0bShu9Inffv0C3h36V_9Ms31y5MDEMP7mV7GICbzHKyuAjPbJtBoCmVMQAvD_BwE

Nope. Edge pox.

My 09 used to do the same thing, pop when backing up first thing. Clunk actually. Took it to garage and they greased them. Rust or corrosion was preventing parts from moving until I backed up. (Never really explained exactly what they greased. They didn't bill me so I didn't ask.)

https://help.ford.com/update-sync/

We're good with that as well... but be advised you're going to be sleeping in a car back seat for the rest of the year, if you do.

? tiny bubbles ? on the car, makes me happy, ? maks meee fee'll finine.

Meant it to read power "seat-backs". I didn't remember the Edge offering power seat-backs. Only the Lincoln offered power seat-backs. Lincoln had 10-way front seats, Ford had 6-way power seats. Speaking of back seats, I can live with manual fold up rear seats, I wish they had designed them to lay flat (like in the Navigator).

My 2009 MKX has 10-way front seats. I believe you would have to upgrade to Lincoln to get power seat backs.

Whine, whine, whine. Back in the day, ... my 09 MKX has a solid, plastic sheet that's installed with cables and hooks and hold down straps. Pulled tight with a come-along and bolted to the headrests. Bunch of pussies. ?

Is the cargo light LEDs part of the ambient lights? Other than that, I can't see any reason for having so many supply conductors.

I remember reading over on the 150 forum where they found a bad connection at the connector (probably corrosion). Several others either replaced or had replaced the camera itself. Ebay sells aftermarket cameras for around $70.

Duck tape .... ?

FilterMag??? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OJCIMO/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_ZVPGPN8KFGYEBFD4ZSXR

Could always use a filter magnet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H588VE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QH96469HJFH8A4YHKY79?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you replace the single horn with a dual, do you also have to install a relay? In the past, cars with one horn didn't use a relay, but wired direct. And if they did use a relay, do you have to replace the relay with one to handle the additional current? I see where FIAMM makes a dual horn replacment kit (for cars with a single horn. There's a YouTube video on how to replace using their kit). The kit number is 7250722.

I don't see the need to change to oil pan drain plug unless it's been over-tightened or old. (Threads do get stretched each time its retightened.) I get "the works" oil change at the local Ford garage & usually tell them to replace it, if it needs it. They've only replaced it once that i know of. However a copper crush washer is designed to be changed after being removed (one time use). Some people reuse these washers and tend to over tighten the plug to get the same seal.

That may work if it weren't for this being a lease. If not perfect, either the dealer or leasing agent auditor will spot it and he'll get a bill for full cost to replace. (Lease contracts require you return the car in perfect condition, other than "normal" wear and tear. Damage of any part must be repaired). Had a work associate who took his car back and dealer found a few dings he got billed for. Then a few weeks later he got another bill from the leasing agent who found one wheel that had excessive road rash (dealer missed or ignored). Was hit with a bill for several hundred and he was livid. Refused to pay. Their lawyer finally sent a pay or else letter and he paid. Dealer told him their inspection was done to find what they thought the lessor would find. (And of course it generates work for their body shop. Wink.) But the lessor, who actually owns the car, has the last say. And the contract spells out the exact condition the car must be returned in. (Road rash on the wheel was considered as collision damage). I'd start by taking it to the dealer and use their quote as a starting basis. Then stop by a couple of good quality body shops. (Their quote should come in around 80% of the dealer. If it's more, I'd go with the dealer).

I agree, for $11 and brighter, not worth the hassel. Only thing I did different was to slap a layer of electrical tape over the connectors. (Didn't want them to short together).

Sure did. First contact was a lovely place in sunny California, called "boot camp" retreat. The "doctors" wore smokey the bear hats and constantly checked out the health of our nuts. Whenever we got obstructed, they'd scare the piss out of us. Never failed. (Its the constipation corrections I never missed).

Clicked on your "example" but it doesn't take me anywhere. These are what I used, paid extra, but no complaints. Bright and wide pattern. (Example only, there are many to choose from). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM8CB3L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AK33728MKNJD9GAJF1TK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sharp. Is that Lightning Blue? (Should ask what year, model, engine?) Looks nice.

The CCA rating is the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds, when cranking a starter motor, at a temperature of 0°F until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. It's regarded as a battery's "reserve capacity". The higher the rating, the better. When the CCA rating drops below 50%, the battery is regarded as needing replacment. It will still start the car at this level, but its wearing out at faster rate. The CCA rating is really an important factor in colder climates and much less important in warm/hot climates. (But it still has its value). As to why your charger starts at 50%, it may be undergoing a desulfation cycle (or someother magic). Sounds like you bought a good one. Haven't thought about drying the inside of the door jambs. Its great to drive in a car that looks and feels showroom. I tried for the first few years, dealer still thinks I'm a fanatic, tells his staff I'm "very particular". (Needs to be detailed. The company I like to use is in another city.) I normally just run it through the local car wash. Ultimate cycle of course. Too old, too lazy to do it myself ?