enigma-2

Only thing that comes to mind is either the seal around the moon roof or the rear window washer spray line. (Plastic, if the line had a break in it, fluid possibly power spraying into headliner.) My money would be on seal around window. I'd start around top of window.

This is the cap you need for use with your capless fuel fill. Motorcraft. $25. https://accessories.ford.com/products/locking-fuel-plug

What I was thinkin of was 'this' cable with 'these' ports. With your phone plugged in via usb cable, does your phone show it to be connected via usb? That the halo ring is lighting up indicates the port is getting power. The phone obviously works, so the cable is suspect. (It's possible that one port is bad, but all ports)? Personally, I charge via a power cord plugged into a power point as it charges much faster than usb. The only time i use usb is to listen to an audio book copied to my phone. (But I haven't done this in a couple of years. Prefer sirus for entertainment.)

Not common for rear differentials fail this young. I'd bet the previous owner beat the shirt out of it. (Some of these guys think their street car belongs on a race track and drives them accordingly). My local dealer's service manager feels the PTU fail way to often. He recommends 30k miles (48 km) baised on the fluid condition they see. 80k (120 km) miles for rear differentials.

Are the phones recognizing the USB? (Check qsetting to see if car is listed as being connected). If not, try a different cable.

As the fluid is red, check fluid levels for power steering and transmission. Fluids should be at or near top of "hatching" engraved on dip stick. If low, you found the part that's causing the problem. (Top off with additional fluid to prevent problems).

I have ford garage change oil (TheWorks for tire rotation and inspection). They use synthetic blend and Motorcraft filter. Think mine has around 127k miles. Diverting a bit, have you changed your coolant? Ford garage switched my 2009 MKX over to latest coolant. Said they couldn’t buy the gold anymore. Changing coolant important for pump longevity. Also consider changing tranny fluid, the PTU fluid and the power steering fluid, the rear axle and brake and blinker fluids. Concerning the use of high mileage oil, consider that Mobile 1 High Mileage will give you better fuel economy (which is always good) but not as much protection for your engine.

Does look like a water path. What exactly are we looking at? Difficult to place in the car. Is that a window gasket?

What is special about your gas fill? Is it the kind that doesn't have a gas cap? Checking on-line at RockAuto, it looks like the correct Motorcraft part number for a 2015 edge is: 8L3Z9030E, FC1062, $34.99. (Color is black for gasoline.) This is the only locking cap shown for the 3.5 L engine.

A independent shops can have good or only fair mechanics, but none will carry the specialized tools, software or schooled technicians that are required by FordMoCo. Dealers labor rate is higher because they need to carry tooling and training not needed by an independent. If my Lincoln needs transmission work, they schedule it with a technician who's trained in a Ford transmission school. Specialized technicians is something you won't find in an independent. They deal with all brands and must be a jack of all trades. There are several mechanics in our area that can change oil. But I still only use my local Ford/Lincoln dealer because I know they are the best, have the tools and test equipment necessary and offer a good guarantee that I can depend on. If your set against a Ford dealer, rather than using a "chain" mechanic (which I view with some septism as they employ minimum wage "mechanics"), I'd recommend a local pro. Someone who's been in business for years and has a reputation to defend. Ask on Facebook who others recommend in your area.

Its my understanding that version 3.8 is the last official version and 3.10 was released on Nov.16, 2017 to address certain bugs. If everything is working ok, about the only thing that you would gain worthwhile are the addition of a few newer cell phones.

How about the offset?

The fact that you can turn both wheels independently indicates that the planet gear broke. If the coupling broke, no power would be transmitted, but the rotational torque by spinning one wheel would be transmitted to the opposite through the carrier assy. If you bought the car used, I'd suspect the previous owner had abused the car. But, at 300 km I'd say it's doing good. BTW, does the mom and pop shop offer a warranty? (I don't trust ebay and a warranty might be worth paying extra). While they have it down for replacing, I'd consider also changing worn parts; rear shocks, bushings, etc.

Could always put the OEM unit back in and record the original addresses and bit values for the clock, nav and mic. Then reinstall and reprogram the new unit with these addresses.

You can copy the "as-built" values into the replacement APIM. Been discussed here before. -or, you can buy a replacement APIM and the seller will program it for you. https://www.4dtech.com/replacement-sync-2-module-apim-myford-touch/ Or, yiu could send the radio off and get it serviced. (Or at least talk with these people and get a second opinion. The "could be" remark bothered me. Easiest enough to check by pulling the codes. I think its possible to read the codes through the radio itself. I know its possible in the 2009 unit as ive done it). One example of repair: https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/2007-ford-edge

Opps, sorry. Something like this then? (Autozone OEM 27111 loner tool program. Probably not too expensive to rent.)

Have you tried compressing the pistons? A tool like this makes it easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085THCFPJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BVWEBN5WX2MN0J2XT20R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Be interested in hearing what they find.

That definitely doesnt normal to me. Kind of sounds to me like you overheated the tranny and it started slipping. If you have access to a code reader, something like that should hsve set a code. If not, you should be able to have it read at Auto Zone or one of the other parts stores in your area. I'd recommend checking the fluid to make certain its full (how steep was the hill?) and also check its color and smell. If either is off, I'd get a tranny fluid change. (I'm picky about these things on my car. I get a tranny fluid change at every 30k. As well as the PTU. Cheap insurance).

Has his brakes always acted like this or only recently? Reason I'm asking is, he may use his brakes more than normal and worn the pads down to the nibs. The result is that theres not enough material left to withdtand the heat. Question to everyone, wouldn't he be better with organic pads? Granted, wouldn't last as long and are dirty, but good at withstanding heat better than simi-metallic.

You have one choice. Motorcraft and aftermarket. You know that Motorcraft will last and provide the best ride, is it cost?

I had something similar in my 09 mkx. Had the dealer look at it, and he found the emergency brake parts were rusted in place. As I needed brakes at that time, I authorized new pads, rotors and told them to replace whatever was needed (as in new brake shoes) for the emergency brakes. Based on what i had, I'll bet your emergency brake shoes are stuck on due to rust. (My emergency shoes were worn to 1 mm thickness, from being stuck on. Also the parts that apply the shoes were stuck and couldn't move). The emergency brakes are located inside the rear disk rotors.

Can't answer your question as there are too many possibilities & no one knows what parts you used. Parts that look the same can be completely incompatible. But in my opinion, you may be better served by installing an aftermarket system. There are kits available that connect to steering wheel buttons and add functions like Android Auto, etc. {example} https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Tn05AADcf7V/ymm/2007-Ford-Edge-Speakers-Stereos.html (Select with or without factory woofer)

There are literally hundreds of glass breakage reported by F150 owners. Many report smelling burning wiring as the breakage occured, leading to the belief that the defrost heater wiring is failing, causing overheating. Wonder if anything is different in the glass? Not much in the way of reports for the gen 1 platform vehicles having this problem. Did they change the glass or defrost heater in the gen 2?

Sounds to me what your describing is air entrapment in the cooling system. (Runs fine when in city traffic, overheats on acceleration. Circulation failure under load).