omar302

Ok, I just checked my 2016 Edge and it too doesn't go up by itself. The struts can hold the hood in its place anywhere from ~1/4 open (pictured below) up to fully open. On a 2015 MKS, I have to lift the hood higher than in the Edge until the struts kick in, around half way open, but then they raise the hood the last 1/4 way by themselves.

The 20" wheels are not the reason. Other models can also come with 20" wheels and higher tow rating rating. The 2019+ Edge ST with the same motor and same size wheels (20" or 21") comes standard with 3,500 lbs tow rating. As far as I know, there is no official reason on why the 2015-2018 Edge Sport was limited to 2,000 lbs tow rating only. It might be a marketing thing, or an actual physical limitation.

First, this only relates to the 2015-2018 Edge, because 2019+ have better LED headlights and as far as know, both are considered Gen2. Although the OWM HID are far from great, what you are describing is not consistent with my experience of the OEM HID. I have a 2016 Sport also with the 401A package. I suspect something is wrong with your lighting. Bad bulbs, ballast, lens or projectors. Are you sure they are the OEM HID? Maybe the previous owner replaced for some reason. For the 2015-2018 factory HID, I don't recall anyone upgrading them. The easiest way I assume would be to upgrade the HID bulbs. Like the "OSRAM XENARC Night Breaker Laser D3S" or "PHILIPS Xenon X-TremeVision Gen2 +150% D3S". If you still want to go with external connections, maybe just keep the original ballast to seal the housing and then make all connection external like a retrofit solution. For the H15 DRL, same, the only mod i read here was switching to LED H15 bulbs so the DRLs are white instead of halogen yellow. It would be cool to be able to utilize the high beam portion, but physically there are no wire connected to the the high beam filament. So you'd need custom wiring in a way not to affect the existing wiring. Another concern would be the heat generated by the high beam and whether the housing/lens would endure it or not.

Since your OEM struts failed relatively soon, I'd usually recommend going for aftermarket, whatever sells a lot on eBay for example. But a quick search doesn't reveal choices, only one listing from China. So it seems you only have the OEM option. On the other hand, are you sure both failed? Maybe only one requires replacement.

This is the problem. $300 + 250 = $550.00 while a brand new one is normally $599.00 so it will be a difficult sell. Hope you find a buyer.

Checked the water level in the Battery. The "Maintenance free" Motorcraft BXT- 90T5-590, stock for my Edge. Always wanted to test that theory so I did. The cover came off using a screw driver and prying it off from the side. The battery is exactly 2 years old, only the two side cells had the level low enough to expose the some of the plates. Took about 150 ml to fill all the cells to the bottom of the fill holes. Also, found considerable acid/corrosion under the negative terminal that was completely hidden without disconnecting the terminal. Will see if it has any long term effect. Life of Batteries in our climate rarely exceed 2 years. Cheaper batteries usually fail just after the 1 year warranty period.

The fist to diagnose it cheaply is to buy an OBD2 adapter with MS-Can/HS-Can compatible with ForScan and use it to read what error codes are there. I mention ForScan because it can read all Ford module errors, not just what causes the Check Engine light to come on.

This is a multi Ford Vehicle TSB and includes the 2015-2018 Edge. Link to PDF copy. link to source . 2013-2021 Ford - Shifter Not Moving The Transmission To The Proper Gear Position NHTSA ID Number: 10194434 Manufacturer Communication Number: TSB 21-2152 Summary Some 2013-2016 Fusion, 2013-2018 C-MAX, 2014-2019 Escape, 2014-2021 Transit Connect, and 2015-2018 Edge vehicles may indicate an incorrect shifter lever position. This may be due to the bushing at the transmission end of the shifter lever cable resulting in a mismatch of cluster and selected gear position. To correct the condition, follow the Service Procedure steps to replace the bushing and on certain vehicles install the protective cap over the selector at the transmission end of the selector lever cable.

I posted a Ford GSB here. It had stated to check for number of key cycles (in mode9) and compare to vehicle service history if counter is abnormally low and thus investigate for unauthorized reflash and signs of aftermarket tuner connections. I know with LMS the counter is not affected when flashing a tune or reflashing the stock tune.

I have learned that they are always scanning, so even if you happen to just pass a suitable spot before pressing the button, the system will still indicate that it found this spot as soon as you press the button and will park you in it. So you don't have to always press the button to start searching for a spot.

Not believing how expensive it can be, I just looked up the part number and it is indeed very expensive, wasn't expecting it. But it also seems you were charged a lot for replacing the steering wheel. Found the steering wheel for ~$1744

As far as I know, you don't have to replace them in pairs unless it is feasible for labor charges if you are disassembling a lot of parts to get to the actuators.

I am with you, I am all in with ForScan, but you don't have to leave the door open, if you just latch it to the 1st lock the door will not open if locked and since it is not fully closed would not double chirp/horn.

Did you turn on the headlights?

Hi, Any news if there is any updates from Livernoise after stage 4?

For some reason I was reading it 2011 instead of 2014 ?.

Not defending Ford, I wish Auto manufacturers kept stocks for all their vehicles, but I see the business case. The vehicle is 10 8 years old, the rear differential is not a common item to fail, 99.9% of 10 8 year old vehicle owners won't buy a "new" rear differential replacement. Why keep stock of such an expensive, big & heavy part? I have even seen dealers that won't take in old vehicles for repairs. You are in a unique situation where you still have a warranty on a 10 8 year old vehicle that is willing to pay for it. Since you have a warranty willing to cover the costs, I suggest you find the lowest mileage used rear differential from a non-snow state.

Searching online it looks to be a discontinued part. Example. You might have to consider used or rebuilding the old one. Dealer should give you a more accurate answer.

Was cleaning the cabin air filter today on my 2016 Sport & remembered this thread, they seem to be 16mm x 4mm. Edit: The scale in the photos is in "cm" so each line represents "1 mm".

Today a Volkswagen T-Roc was in my rear view mirror and when the driver signaled to change lanes I saw what the 2015-2018 Edge should've had as DRL/Turn Signal lights. Always wished some aftermarket company came with something similar. See the video below up to around the 30 second mark. Any chance someone can custom make them if we can get enough people for a group purchase?

CCA matches the Motorcraft H7 (ABD "OE" as you stated), but RC is closer to the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610. Given that this battery is a direct replacement to the stock F-150 (standard 3.5L) which uses the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610, I'd go "0C" or "0D". The first F-150 with the standard V6 I found on eBay I just checked has "0D".

Now that's an auto enthusiast. Have to improve on stock ?. Maybe also consider changing the battery type/size in ForScan for the bigger battery.

For me, we we have short driving cycles hence the benefit of a larger battery, As for the 65, its because it is actually cheaper here, so it seemed like a win-win. However, I found out that the battery terminals are on opposite sides meaning the fit will also require re-arranging the wiring. Will see if it is possible once my battery actually dies.

Do you have intelligent access with push button start? The fob has small discs under the buttons that flex and make the connection, these discs might unstick from their location and and make extra unwanted presses. When the car beeps, try to listen or feel if the door locks are relocking.

What about the BMS? I know the battery model or type can be changed using ForScan, but I don't remember reading what would happen if the battery type in the BCM doesn't match the actual installed battery?