enigma-2

Good question. I've never used KYB but from what I've read the KYB comes with the spring and spring mount bearing (complete assembly, already assembled). However it has a much firmer ride. OEM will give an original ride, may be more confortable. Personal preference.

I had a new set of 20" tires put on in Feb and "brushed" a curb in March. Completely tore a large hole in the sidewall, destroying the tire. An 18 would have scuffed and kept right on going. Dealer rep & I were talking during service. He was telling me about a customer with 21's on his new car. Two months old and he was in replacing his 2nd tire. Pothole on first, screw on second. The screw went in, in tread area, but so little sidewall, penetrated the sidewall at a 45° angle. Tire shot when sidewall punctured.

Try checking the fuses. If ok, I think I would try pulling the fuse and leave it out for an hour. To be honest, I'm not certain which fuse it is, but in the 2012 Edge, fuse #6 controls the RF, #18 controls the PATS, #20 controls the lock/unlock relays (w/o IA), #23 controls the Intelligent Access and #26 also plays a part in IA.

FordTechMakuloco released a new video on how to test the door ajar circuit to determine if the switch is defective or whether the fault lies somewhere else. And how to r&r the switch.

Look under the instrument cluster for a small black box labeled Siemens "CONT.ASY-R/CONT LK & ALAM SYS MN". This is the black box that controls the connection between the FOBs and the doors. Unplug both connectors and leave them unplugged for at least an hour. Then plug the connectors back in. Should fix the problem and the FOB should be able to communicate with the car again.

I've always used a 12# Buford Model 127YR dead blow with Craftsman H11 chisel to set my plugs on my lawnmower. Find two or three good blows about does it. Three layers of my utility bill envelope will set the gap perfectly at 0.03000213".

You might find the following YouTube video on installing a bumper protector useful:

While I find your answer intersting, I find your arrogance appalling. If your unable to remain civil, please leave the forum. None of us wish to be assulted by such vulgar language.

Aftermarket systems run about twice that. http://www.che1.com/product/tl105-electric-tailgate-lift-assist-system/

Check this out, it adds bluetooth and phone through the speakers.http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=1420d

If you're considering disconnecting the battery cable to tow (and you are required to reconnect after a certain period of hours, 6 if I remember) a battery switch would make this job much easier. Examples: BEP 701 Battery Switches - On-Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2bnEBbF512VYA NOCO ID220S 6V-24V 125 Amp Battery Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EH9WUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RenEBbMR5VXYR edit note; the original link was 404, added url to new link.

Consider homeowners insurance. I used ours twice. Have spent much, much more in payments than I have ever claimed. Carry it to protect from the "big one". (And I hope I never have to make a claim). You buy an extended warranty for exactly the same reasons. Loss of an engine, transmission, PTU, etc. Is it worth it, .... maybe.

That's getting harder to get, for an Edge or MKX. When you lease, your are contracting for the full amount of the car and paying back only the deprecation. Finance companies used to base the payments on this estimated amount until gas prices caused SUV's to deprecate faster, leaving them to take the car back and sell at a loss. To offset this possibility, they usually charge an additional percent or so on SUV's and the like, for possible accelerated deprecation. Sometimes you can get a better deal near year end to clear the lot, but it's always prudent to run the numbers just to be sure. Actually, walk away after the settlement by all parties involved. There's a hidden cost at the termination that most people never consider. All leases have a clause that reads that you will return the car in the same shape that you rented it, minus normal wear and tear. Normal wear and tear does NOT include door dings, wheel rash, scratches, windshield chips, etc. You, as the lessor are responsible for repairing all of these; whatever wasn't there when it was new. If you don't the dealer or finance company will send the car to a body shop and have everything fixed, on YOUR dime. (And consider how much a new wheel costs). You could easily spend and extra $500 or more at turn-in time. And the inspection by your dealer is not the last word. You rented from a finance company and they have the last word. After you turn it in and walked away, you can still get a bill from your finance company for something they found and was not fixed by the dealer. And you will pay because it is in tbe contract. You must consider all the costs when you rent, usually you get by in laying out less money each month (renting advantage), but the cost interest of renting is much higher. Add the up front costs of contract creation and several other hidden costs (sometimes added in by the dealer to run the paper, etc.), and you may be laying out more than you think. Keeping the car at the end of the lease is the same as buying it on the lot. However you do know all of its previous history and may be able to avoid having to lay out $$ for dings, etc. It all comes down on how long do you intend to keep the car.

Really is a stunning picture, Jorge. Makes it look electric.

There is no user feedback, so it's really only guessing as to how it performs. Did you also look at this one, just a little more in cost and several answered questions. Should have all the features your looking for. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00UZ7WLAA/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_1/139-4416236-6830446?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZY38XVRBN84YRYWKWZBC&dpPl=1&dpID=61To0-j6rJL

A lot of assumptions concern the one failure of a single $2k (or whatever), but from my experience is really comes down to several small (<$800) repairs.

It's actually a common complaint. The most likely cause is the drain for the ac housing has become plugged. The condensate sits in the housing and mold starts to grow (hence the musky smell). Check out a post I added some time back describing hoe to open the drain and use a mold killer. (Last post). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22152-air-system-cleaning/?fromsearch=1

Little squished, but here you go.. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2ysoo-layout-54-pin-connector-sync-module.html

Next time you have your bamr open, look at this "accordion gasket" and you will see that it's different from an o ring. Designed to be highly flexible as a rod slides inside its channel and also has to compress under the weight of the moonroof (all while the rod is sliding inside it). I *hope* that it remains pliable for the life of the car, was relived when I see it take its original shape after being in the sun.

Ok, went to the Fort Wayne Children's Zoo on Sunday. Nice sunny, hot day. Left the car closed up when we came out later in the afternoon, the car was hot inside. Opened the moon roof and the accordion gasket had softened and was completely flexible. Opened and closed without falling off. Writing this incase it happens to anyone else. If the gasket comes off (and it can come off quite easily), and get pinched, distorting the shape of the gasket, it can be fixed by re-attaching and letting the sun soften it and retake the original shape.

Ebay. Chrome & carbon fiber are inexpensive (re: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Black-Carbon-Fiber-Look-ABS-Tailgate-Door-Handle-Cover-for-08-14-Ford-Edge/182239176976

Just received a brochure where SAE is offering a seminar for people to understand how to defend against an attack on embedded hardware of things like a cars radio and wireless communication systems. The seminar will cover how to identify hardware components, understand datasheets, debug ports (the hidden paths), attempt to intercept communications between an MCU and external memory and extract the firmware code from an embedded system. Basically it teaches how to reverse engineer the hardware and how to control it. (Great course for crooks). The course ends with the students attempting to break into and take control of a refrigerator or some other custom embedded device. It's already been demonstrated that a person can take control of a car while driving down the highway and cause to to brake to a standstill or perform other nasty tricks by connecting in through the modem. Also crooks have figured out how to take control of your smart access FOB signal, (it's always broadcasting) unlock your car and drive off all while you are happily shopping for your favorite beer. Never gave my refrigerator a second thought though. Two days, Oct 16-17 in Troy Michigan. $1,530. http://training.sae.org/seminars/c1524/

Went back and reread the Maintenance Manual for cars subject to long periods of idling and slow driving (such as Taxi or city traffic, or calif freeway, etc.) and the schedule for spark plug replacment officially drops to 60,000 miles. (Along with a shorter transmission drain interval among other things).

Smaller tires.

I would guess around 5,800 because of the turbos. But it doesn't really by matter because the PCM will ebstablish its own limits due to several factors. Can't say on the 2.7 but on the 3.5l the power drops off dramatically after 5k (fwiw).