enigma-2

Hi Mario. It's been discussed at length in this forum. Just do a search for "running boards" and you should get a hundred hits on past posts. Many had recommendations from members who had installed RB. Pix as well.

Just curious, as you have a 2013, isn't it still under warranty and if so, why would you take it to someone else?

"But wait, there's more. If you call in the next five minutes ...."

As Ford was trading at 14 a year ago and 11 today, if it were me, I'd be looking to cuts losses and make a trade.

For me, I had my 3.5 in for a regular oil change. Service dept told me they were recommending a coolant flush before its schedule as they needed to use a different coolant than what originally in the car. The new stuff had been developed specifically in reaction to some corrosion problem. As I hadn't read anything about pump failure, I didn't ask anything about what the problem was. Check with your local dealer as to what is currently recommended.

I've read in other conferences where it was traced to the SD card. Check the contacts to see if there's any oxidation on the contacts.

Curious. I thought that the car had to be moving before the tire pressure sending units began transmitting. There's a different procedure described on Ebay for the Ford TPMS. If you have the tool, wouldn't hurt to give it a try. http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Train-Ford-Tire-Pressure-Monitior-Sensors-TPMS-/10000000177044847/g.html

I have over 100k on my 3.5 and no problems. Dealer told me that changing the coolant wad the key to long life. When the warning signs on coolant loss finally show up, I'll drop the $1700 and get it changed. (I'll put it on my Ford Credit card and pay it off over time without interest. Can't beat OPM!) On the other hand, installing a catch can on the 2.0l will catch most of the blowby and minimize the carbon buildup. Remember that there are millions on both enginges on the road and the problems that do show up are (usually) on older engines and are reparable (not unlike any other engine). My 09 is at the dealer every three months so they usually look for and catch problems before they become large. My daughter has the 2.0 in her Escape and loves it. (No catch can). So somewhere around 150,000-200,000 miles she will have to get the heads pulled and cleaned; if she keeps it that long. All part of ownership.

Ran across an excellent YouTube video from "Headlight Revolution". Discusses all of the prior and current variants of LED headlights (fogs as well) and analysis what's good, bad and just plain ugly. What works, why and how. Very informative video on LEDs. (Be advised it's a half hour long).

Did you check the integrity of the seal?

Anything plugged into the power ports? Anything plugged into the OBD port? Troubleshooting the system involved reading the OBD port to see if there any codes. Failing that, disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect a VOM in series to measure the leakage current. Should only be a few milliamps of power being used. If there is a power leakage, next step is to disconnect one fuse at a time until the drain stops. Once you have the circuit, it's only following it down one items at a time until you find the component.

I had Dueler's on my mkx and just replaced them with a new set. Excellent tires, had no real problems with them. No signs of cracking or abnormal aging on old set.

Rear different is also mentioned, don't know about the bearings.

When I had my local dealer change the flid the first time, I talked the the mechanic who they considered their expert on these units. He told me that he would recommend changing the fluid every 30k miles unless I was towing a trailer or running off road. Under those circumstances he recommended every 20k.

One other thing to remember with a unit this old. When you next change to PTU check the seal; make certain that it's not leaking. The dealer found my 09 MKX leaking at ~95k & had it repaired under warranty. They told me they thought that when the PTU seal leaks, it gets low on fluid and what's left gets too hot and turns gummy. At thid point it doesn't lubricate PTU properly and the unit fails.

Not really a biggie, but one other goodie is, at the dealer I get treated better and a free car wash after every service call. Also offered a loaner whenever they need to keep the car all day or over overnight. (Local dealer both is a Ford and Lincoln dealer).

My 09 does NOT have a glove box light. Had plans once of using a Reed switch (activates in proximity of a magnet) glued inside tge back of the instrument panel and glueing a magnet inside the g-box door (opening the door halves ((they separate by unscrewing)) and glueing a magnet on the inside, left side. Completely hidden when box door is open.) For the lights, i was hoing to run a short strip of LEDS over the area above the box to illuminate the entire box when open. Was looking for warm-white as I hate the cold feeling of white-white. Also wanted low output LEDs - most everything anymore is the super bright stuff. Nice thing about this setup is, no mechanical switch to malfunction, no plunger sticking out and full illumination of the contents of the box.

Ebay, do a search for "ford edge 20"wheels". Should get plenty of hits.

I know I had trouble when I tried to program following the Lincoln manual. Turned out its because of the security features in my Chamberlain opener. What I ended up doing is pressing the "learn" button on the opener, then press and hold the button on my visor for fifteen seconds or so. One point is not to be parked inside the garage when programming.

I just switched over to Philips X-tremeVision. Very satisfied with the change. This is the best you can do with OEM Halagen projectors.

What engine mods, FWD or RWD, tire size, stripped or stock, octane of gas, SE, SEL, Titanium, Sport ?

Also, it's more than cosmetic. There's differences throughout. Mine 09 has stone and dark wood interior and platinum white exterior. When anyone asks what I like about the car, I usually respond by saying "It's' a Lincoln". Then look at them like their stupid or something.

Was reading the Mobile 1 warranty. There's plenty of wiggle room on their part. That ARE stating (in so many words) that you must also use the Mobile 1 filter on the same 20k/one year interval. Think of it, one trip through the desert or other really dusty place such as driving on unpaved roads (we still have dirt roads here in Indiana) and your oil gets dirty. It's the filter that takes the dirt out, and when it's full, it starts to bypass the filter, allowing dirty oil to continue to circulate, scoring the bearings and other high tolerance parts, like the rings.

I read years ago that taxi cab companies in New York don't change their oil on regular intervals, rather they sample the oil weekly and change when it got too dirty or acidic. While the oil may now be engineered to go 20k or 1 year, I would be nervous about not changing the filter evey three to six months. And I agree with akirby, if your manual states every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, that's what you need to hold to for warranty purposes. There's a strong history of auto manufacturers denying warranty service based on not maintaining oil change intervals. (Chrysler comes to mind after to 08 crash. Even with good records at a dealer they were rejecting claims of blown engines, based on every little thing). I haven't read the warranty on the MobIle-1 product, but they usually are written in such a manner that you need to keep super records and be able to prove beyond any doubt that you followed the requirements precisely.